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ELIZABETH, COUNTESS MATUSCHKA 


Frontispiece 






THE 


GLOBE TROTTER 


BY 

FRANK S. HEFFERNAN 


4 J 



Illustrated 


G. W. DILLINGHAM COMPANY 

NEW YORK 


PUBLISHERS 



jQq73 

14 A - 



Copyright, 1911, by 
FRANK S. HEFFERNAN 


The Globe Trotter 



l. 61 > 


©CIA30827 7 

IVj.I 


TO 

ELIZABETH, COUNTESS MATUSCHKA 

OF GERMANY 

IN MEMORY OF OUR LONG, PLEASANT 


ORIENTAL CRUISE 

















CONTENTS 


CHAPTER PAGE 

I. Departure . . 9 

II. Sociology . . . .24 

III. The Ship . . . .34 

IV. The Storm at Sea . . .38 

V. Azores . . . . .51 

VI. Lisbon . . . . 55 

VII. Cadiz . . . . 63 

VIII. Seville . . .. . . . 68 

IX. Ronda . . . 78 

X. Tangier . . ., .84 

XI. Gibraltar - • §9 

XII. Algiers .... 96 

XIII. Globe Trotting . . 104 

XIV. Ethics in Tour . . . 113 

XV. Genoa ...... 125 

XVI. Monte Carlo and Ville- 

franche .... 138 

XVII. The Stork .... 146 
XVIII. Syracuse . . . .158 

XIX. The Personnel of the Tour¬ 
ists ..... 165 

XX. .Valetta, Malta . w 179 

XXI. Cairo . . . 1., . 197 

XXII. Palestine . . ., .213 

5 





6 


CONTENTS 


FI A P TER 



PAGE 

XXIII. 

Jerusalem 


. 222 

XXIV. 

The Crucifixion- . 


. 247 

XXV. 

Jaffa 


• 254 

XXVI. 

Phenomena . 


. 268 

XXVII. 

Athens 


. 278 

XXVIII. 

Smyrna 


• 295 

XXIX. 

Dardanelles . 


. 302 

XXX. 

Constantinople 


. 310 

XXXI. 

The Sultan . 


• 3 i 9 

XXXII. 

Harem . 


. 321 

XXXIII. 

A Georgian Beauty 


• 325 

XXXIV. 

Turkey . 


• 336 

XXXV. 

Burial at Sea 


• 345 

XXXVI. 

Messina 


• 353 

XXXVII. 

Art 


• 364 

XXXVIII. 

Palermo 


• 368 

XXXIX. 

Naples . 


• 372 

XL. 

European Writers 


• 387 

XLI. 

Rome 


• 392 

XLII. 

The Elements 


• 417 

XLIII. 

Florence 


• 425 

XLIV. 

Ancient Art . 


• 435 

XLV. 

Venice . 

, 

• 442 

XLVI. 

Munich 


• 455 

XLVII. 

Dresden 


. 461 

XLVIII. 

Berlin . 

!•! 

• 470 

XLIX. 

Hamburg 


. 481 

L. 

On the Atlantic . 


. 489 

LI. 

Home Again . 


. 500 






ILLUSTRATIONS 


PAGE 


Elizabeth, Countess Matuschka . . Frontispiece 

Our Ocean Home 
Portuguese Beauty 
Tangier Woman of the Harem 
Tangier School 
Moroccan Beauty 
Monument Celle . 

Monument Da Passano 
Monument Pienovi 
Monument Pietro Badaracco 
Oriental Belle 

A Lady from Upper Egypt 
Scene in the Church of the Holy Sepulcher 
The Garden of Gethsemane, and Mount of Olives 
Scene in the Church of the Nativity, in the City of 
Bethlehem .... 

Arabian School, .... 

Arabian Belle .... 

The Favorite of the Harem 
Sultan Mehmed, Ottoman Emperor 
Sacrifice of Abraham . 




34 


56 


84 


92 

IS 

96 

' S ’ 

126 

iS 

129 


134 

\s 

1 3 s 


205 

V 

225 


231 

v' 

24a 


243 


254 

\S 

261 


3 12 

\S 

3 i 3 


382 



7 






















THE GLOBE TROTTER 


THE SET OF THE SOUL. 

One ship drives East and the other drives West, 
While the self-same breezes blow; 

It’s the set of the sails and not the gales, 

That bids them where to go. 

Like the winds of the sea are the ways of the fates, 
As we voyage along through life; 

It’s the set of the soul that decides the goal, 

And not the storms of strife. 


CHAPTER I 

DEPARTURE 

There are many inquiring* beings at the present 
time. One of the many is the average reader of books 
who is always curious to know: “Who is the author?'’ 
“How old he is?” “Is he married?” “Where does 
he live?'’ “How he looks?" “What was his business 
before he began writing?” 

Desiring to satisfy all, I reply in order given: 

The name can be found in the book. As to my 
age, I will let you guess. I am eligible and willing 
to receive proposals. I live in the grand old State of 

9 


10 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 

Missouri, and am proud of it. As to how I look, on re¬ 
quest I will reply by wireless. As to my former busi¬ 
ness, I am pleased to say that I was a farmer, own¬ 
ing a small turkey ranch, where I made the breeding 
of hobbled turkeys a specialty. Since hobbledom be¬ 
came a raging fad, I sold my little ranch and sent out 
all my trained turkeys in every direction as demon¬ 
strators and exponents of fashion; demonstrating to 
those afflicted the way to make the best graceful struts 
while confined within the hobble skirt. My profits 
have been so large the first year that I have merely 
taken this year’s profits to make a tour of the Orient. 

I “blew” on to the first train coming East, paid for 
round trip transportation, and, during change of trains 
in St. Louis, met some friends. While talking to them 
I noticed the big clock pointing to nearly my train 
time. I bade my friends adieu and broke for the iron 
entrance, getting past the ticket puncher safely. A 
boy and girl of about fifteen and seventeen summers 
preceded me. We were properly directed to the 
Pennsylvania “Keystone Flyer.” 

“We’re in a hurry, let us on quick,” exclaimed the 
youth, whose exclamation betrayed their mission. 
Beau Brummel-like, I stepped aside, permitting their 
ingress to the Pullman. 

“Thank you, sir,” said she, exhibiting a certain de¬ 
gree of nervousness that pantomically convinced me, 
“this is a runaway couple.” Such escapades, though 
usually wrong, generally enlist the sympathy and 
nearly always the assistance of strangers. “We have 
tickets for the drawing room,” the youth said in bated 




THE GLOBE TROTTER 


11 


breath. The porter placed them where their trans¬ 
portation entitled them. 

I brought my overcoat (perhaps shall be calling it 
my topcoat ere I return, don’t you know?). Turn¬ 
ing to regain the platform to get a newspaper, it 
brought my face directly in front of the drawing room 
entrance. A large traveling salesman coming into the 
sleeper, having more avoirdupois and mistaken po¬ 
liteness than common sense, rudely remarked aloud: 

“The runaways are in this coach.” 

The youngsters were aroused in an instant. They 
were all action. (Having had immediate visions, or 
perhaps more properly entitled, an unmatured presenti¬ 
ment that I would have use for a drawing room in a 
Pullman car on this tour, created rather an envious¬ 
ness for its being used by others.) The train be¬ 
gan to slowly pull out and the occupants of the draw¬ 
ing room began to get their coats on again. A big 
red-headed, tusky-toothed curmudgeon sitting near the 
drawing room, impudently exclaimed aloud: “Twenty- 
three.” I would have reprimanded him if it were 
not for the color of hi9 hair and the size of his teeth. 
I’ll admit that I thought “skiddoo,” but I didn’t say it. 

The train reaching the Relay station the kids glided 
out. No remarks should have been made, everyone 
seeing their hopes were deferred. They were so anx¬ 
ious to get off the train they forgot their trunks and 
left them aboard. 

Our Keystone Flyer was soon in a parallel race 
with the B. & O. Limited over the expansive prairies 
of Illinois, For many miles we had a fine race; grad- 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


1 :% 

tially the Flyer passed the “Limited.” It put me in 
mind of my boyhood days on the Mississippi river 
when the fastest steamboats raced to secure contracts 
for carrying the United States mail. 

On regulation time we sped our way through the 
tube beneath the Hudson river and landed in the heart 
of the city of New York, on Thirty-first street, into 
the largest, finest and most expensive depot in the 
world. Great country, America. 

I flew into the first electric cab. “Take me to pier 
No. 4 ,” exclaimed I. The cab dumped me at the 
place designated, with my steamer trunk, handbag, a 
hatful of ambition, six months’ expectancy and eyes 
full of glittering hopes. The porter carried my lug¬ 
gage aboard and I walked the gangplank of the big 
boat on due time, flipping to the porter the usual tip 
as he dropped my luggage. A ship steward picked 
up my handbag and bade me follow him to my state¬ 
room. 

A first-class passage has varied meaning. It may 
have a suite of even three rooms, with bath, parlor 
and piano, aside from the state-room proper. It may 
be on the promenade deck, above or below. It may 
be occupied by one passenger, or more than one; all 
these depended on the amount of money a tourist is 
willing to put up for the privilege. 

The ticket I purchased entitled me to a single room, 
but I was led into one consisting of three beds and 
a resting lounge. I picked my bed, as is a usual right 
to the one who enters first. I was arranging my lit¬ 
tle belongings hurriedly (until I would be put in my 
own state-room), as I was desirous to return to the 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


13 


deck to stand and see the faces of my fellow passen¬ 
gers as they come aboard, and see the parting kissing 
of friends and beloved ones on the wharf below. This 
is a sight worth seeing. 

The door was swung ajar by the steward, return¬ 
ing from the deck with two large suit cases; as he 
glided in he was followed by a big, burly English¬ 
man, who in defiant way slammed the door with great 
force back against my bed. He threw his grip on 
the opposite lower berth. Fortunately I was still by 
the mirror at the other end of the room completing 
my toilet. Close on the heels of the Englishman trod 
a Scotchman of nearly the Englishman's proportions. 
The Scotchman could look down at a six-footer, and 
send a two hundred pound weight in the air on a bal¬ 
ance teetering board. Yet, as I have said, the Eng¬ 
lishman was the larger of the two. The Scotchman 
came to a stop at the entrance, surveying the room 
with an expression on his face, indicating, though a 
little late on entrance, he would be first in choice of 
his place. He glanced to my chosen bed and on which 
at this time I was sitting, as he remarked: 

“It looks you are there for the voyage, me lad.” 
To which I quietly replied: 

“I have made my selection, but I do not know that 
there is any difference in the choice of berths. One 
wanting a lower berth may select that one,” pointing 
to the lower berth, “and one wanting an upper berth 
may select that one,” pointing to the upper berth. 

“Who in the ’ell would want an upper berth?” 
snarled the gruff Briton. To which I calmly replied: 
“I have seen the sea so rough and the occupant of an 



14 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


tipper berth so sick that the man in the lower berth 
would have to cork his mouth while the man above 
was heaving up the ocean wave.” 

The cabin was delightfully ventilated, transom open, 
ports the same, yet the growling Englishman bursted 
forth: 

“The room is so blasted close, Eve a notion to make 
complaint to the purser.” 

I addressed the Englishman mildly: 

“As we are designed to be associates in this cabin 
for nearly three months, it is in order that I inform 

you that I am Mr. -, from the great State of 

Missouri. Your name, please?” extending my hand. 

He barely touched my hand as he carelessly re¬ 
marked : 

“You may call me ‘general’ if you will,” and he 
ran his hand into his trouser pocket, exclaiming: 

“Left my bloody keys in my ’otel. The boat’ll sail 
in thirty minutes.” 

Turning to the Highlander, said I: 

“You have heard my name and place of residence, 
may I inquire your name?” 

“John McKinzie, from the city of Edinburgh, sir,” 
said he, as he politely shook me warmly by the hand. 
His voice was soft, rosy-like; had the essence of 
friendliness in its tone. John Bull, by this time, had 
taken his knife and was about to cut into his suit 
case, after an ineffectual attempt to jerk it open by 
main strength and anger, when he changed his mind 
and dropped the knife back into his pocket. His face 
had the hue of a dark cloud that needed only the 
flash of lightning to start things going. 




THE GLOBE TROTTER 


15 


Should I leave the state-room, there would be no 
one to separate the combatants or keep them from 
fighting, yet my absence might induce them to quiet 
down, and in that event I might have to room with 
these fellows for eighty days. The thought of such 
association was unbearable, and I was almost in the 
act of shouting, “On with the fight/’ When I ob¬ 
served the Scotchman fling his suit case and his grip 
on the lower berth, as he exclaimed: 

“There I camp for the voyage.” 

_ < 

The Briton, who had made no effort before this 
time to claim the lower berth, was still looking for his 
keys, jerking, and lastly cutting his small suit case 
open, nearly jumped to his feet, grabbed the suit¬ 
case and the grip belonging to Scotty from the berth 
and in a most contemptuous manner flung them to the 
upper berth. 

This hostile act did not pass unnoticed by the High¬ 
lander. To my great surprise, however, the Scotch¬ 
man did not at once resent the act, but began to sing 
from the verses of Bobby Burns, the following: 

“In either wing two champions fought, 

Redoubted Staig, who set at naught 
The wildest savage Tory; 

And Welsh, who ne’er yet flinched his ground, 

High waved his magnum-bonum round, 

With Cyclopean fury.” 

I knew this to be an open challenge, though at 
the same time he was gently removing his top coat, 
which he flung on an iron hook placed there for that 
purpose. Then pulled off his waist coat, from which 
he took from a pocket a gold watch, handing it to 



16 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


me, without the formality of a request, but with a 
twinkle of the eye that meant business. He leisurely 
hung his waist coat over his overcoat ; as he turned 
towards me and winked, I gestured him to hit the 
other fellow. Pulling down his suspenders as though 
he was about to make a change of clothing, he quitely 
reached up and got his suitcase and his grip from the 
upper berth and put them in the center of the lower 
berth, at the same time taking the suitcase and grip 
of the “God save the Queen” man and flinging both 
of them to the upper berth with an expression that 
could not be appropriately repeated in a drawing 
room. 

I soliloquized: “Eighty days with these two bears 
that are apt to mix at any time.” I determined to 
control my temper. I was not in their class physi¬ 
cally. In fact, it never occurred to me that I would 
have to defend myself against either of them. I had 
other means to keep the coast clear. I cannot remem¬ 
ber when I was too young to enjoy the sight of a good 
even scrap; and it was plain from the growling be¬ 
tween the big fellows the fun was close at hand. I 
apparently unintentionally moved towards the door 
and pushed it to. Seeing the key was on the inside of 
the door, made me feel my position worth a hundred 
dollars more. I turned the key, then, putting it in 
my pocket unperceived by the belligerents, resumed 
my place, manicuring my fingers or rather appear¬ 
ing to, for they were not needing the work. The selec¬ 
tion of my berth was seemingly conceded, and I was 
nearly bursting my suspenders in restraining my 
anxiety to get on deck to see my fellow voyagers 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


17 


ascend the gang plank, hearing “bon voyage” and 
seeing the parting of friends, but I would rather see 
the big bears fight, a thousand times sooner. I heard 
the ship’s bell toll, which was the signal: “All pas¬ 
sengers come aboard.” Gracious, but I was anxious 
to go! But to lose what was so near on hand! I 
could not think my departure proper. I do not want 
you to think I am a sport, but when locked up in a 
room where a battle was about to be fought, it would 
be the height of bad taste to unlock the door. The 
steward might come in and quell the raging troubles. 

The Englishman at this moment was washing his 
big red face and making more noise than a porpoise. 
With a terrible oath, he demanded why his property 
was thus treated, at the same time formally claim¬ 
ing the lower berth. 

I knew the fun was on. “I claim that bed because 
it is mine,” roared the Englishman. 

“If you are a better man than I am, you may keep 
it,” replied the agressive Scotchman, throwing him¬ 
self in the defensive position. The Englishman let 
fly his right, catching Scotty on the left jaw and 
Scotty handed him one with his left on the nose, let¬ 
ting the red sap flow. 

“The first blood for McKinzie,” I cried. By this 
time I was standing on my bed, constituting myself 
audience and umpire. 

Clippity clip, went the blows. I would not have 
given up my standing first row position for a hun¬ 
dred dollars. I began to think that, as fortune was 
thus favoring me at the beginning of my long voy¬ 
age, I would have good luck the whole trip. 



18 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


“What is the matter in there?” exclaimed a man¬ 
datory voice in the hallway, as the door was roughly 
shook and admittance demanded. 

“Nothing,” replied I, “only the boys are having a 
game of craps.” For by this time the combatants 
were on the floor. Scotland was riding “Ould Eng¬ 
land,” but by a terrible struggle, the “general” was 
raising up the Highlander. I did not think it wrong 
(if so, I hope to be forgiven, for I had a little bitter¬ 
ness against the “general,” because of the manner he 
addressed me when I politely asked him his name), 
to give his antagonist a little advantage when occasion 
arose. So I reached my foot down and gave the 
Briton a push from the rear, that sent him full length 
sprawling on his face and stomach on the floor. By 
this time the ship steward had secured a ladder and 
was peeping over the transom demanding admittance. 
The floor was pretty well painted with English gore, 
and the “general” to escape further punishment ducked 
his head beneath the coveted bed. I unlocked the 
door as I exclaimed: 

“McKinzie, let the ‘general’ up.” 

They were both ready to quit. The Englishman 
resumed his washing, with less noise and vigor, but 
with more care than before. I knew it was mean of 
me to have sent him forward sprawling as I did. 
Now my belt was about to “bust” if I kept in from 
expression any longer, so I clattered out to the Eng¬ 
lishman : 

“You were joking, weren’t you, when you asked 
me to call you ‘general’ ?” He kept on bathing his 
smeared face and made no reply. It was then that 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


19 


the steward discovered that he had placed me in the 
wrong state-room ; my room was 21 on the upper 
deck, and not 121. I enjoyed the mistake. 

The ship’s bell began to toll for the last time, 
which meant “all on board; those not going get off 
within five minutes/’ By the time I reached the head 
of the gang plank it was full of people scudding down 
to land as fast as the dignity of their movements would 
permit. During this time, the stewards were announc¬ 
ing to all not passengers, “get ashore.” 

Directly the gang planks were drawn in, then the 
big hawsers were untied, dropped into the water, and 
were soon, by the aid of the steam monkey on the 
boat, drawn aboard. The tug boats in front began to 
pull the big liner to open channel, while the double 
screw propellers astern began to agitate the waters 
in the rear. We were now loose, bound for Constan¬ 
tinople. Cheer after cheer from friends ashore, re¬ 
sponded to simply by the waving of handkerchiefs 
from the departing ship. I have noticed on former 
occasions, that in parting from friends at the ship’s 
dock, the greatest pleasure on such occasions is ac¬ 
corded to those who do not encounter the dangers of 
ocean travel. I well remember my first voyage across 
the Atlantic. As we steamed out of the New York 
bay with nearly three thousand passengers aboard, 
we were met by another larger liner coming into port. 
All the passengers were seemingly on the deck wav¬ 
ing handkerchiefs and singing as they approached 
shore, but we had no voice or mirth to give in return. 
So it was in this outgoing, for we were now beyond 
the reach of human voice from the shore, loose from 



20 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


the tugs, steaming slowly and carefully down the 
channel, meeting several incoming ships with flying 
colors, bands playing and thousands of musical voices, 
returning home. But the only noise on our big ship 
was the occasional sound of her whistle, which she 
had to blow while meeting incoming boats to choose 
her place in the channel. Hundreds of tourists stood 
on deck viewing the New Jersey shores and the fad¬ 
ing away of the sky-scraping buildings of our great¬ 
est city. Then on the other side was the boundless 
ocean where water meets water and wave lashes wave 
in tireless fury, with endless repetition, one wave 
following another for all time to come, until, if ever, 
the Supreme Master commands a change. 

Passing down the harbor towards Liberty Island, 
standing as it does in the gateway to the greatest 
country, and the greatest harbor in the world, we 
beheld Bartholdi’s Statue of Liberty Enlightening the 
World. Its majestic proportions, rearing its three 
hundred and five feet heavenward, suggest its colos¬ 
sal greatness—Liberty’s uplifted torch—a beacon to 
and an emblem of freedom, a facial expression indi¬ 
cating the welcoming to our shores of all foreigners 
who come with good intentions of honorable citizen¬ 
ship. 

As our big ship plowed her way toward Liberty, 
passing many steamships moving majestically to and 
from their piers, coast liners and sound boats, ex¬ 
cursion boats, ferry boats, lighters, yachts, towboats, 
numerous tug boats and a few great battle ships rid¬ 
ing the water, while peacefully at anchor, presented 
to the eye an ever-changing scene of grandeur. 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


21 


As our boat steamed by the Goddess of Liberty, I 
could not but admire her graceful pose, standing alone 
out in the channel. I was trying to soothe my nat¬ 
ural feelings, which affects everyone when leaving on 
a long perilous cruise. I bolstered up my courage 
as the boy did who kept whistling while passing 
through the dense woods. While there was no one 
near me, I courteously waved my handkerchief to 
the beautiful goddess. She failed then to recognize 
the signal. I guess it was because there were so 
many people watching our flirtation. After the boat 
had passed by the island a mile or so, I looked around 
and saw flirting back to me, the small flag agitating 
the air. It had the desired effect to change my emo¬ 
tions. Steaming southeast into the open ocean, with¬ 
in an hour we could see nothing but water. 

Preparing for the first dinner is not so formal as 
those dinners that follow. The first dinner is usually 
partaken of by tourists without change of travelling 
clothes. A word to the wise is a tonic. When trav¬ 
elling on the ocean to avoid seasickness, a full stomach 
is a safe companion. When you strike new country, 
where diet is largely changed, you can do no better 
thing than give your stomach a vacation. It is diffi¬ 
cult to grasp the situation that demands curbing of 
self-indulgence when one’s appetite craves for nice 
things in sight and possessing ample money to appease 
the desire. But one’s intelligence must restrain the 
persistency of thought of eating for the pleasure it 
gives in swallowing. If any voyager is to assume 
the high prerogative of unconventionally emptying 
his grub bag over the gunwale of the boat, or dou- 



22 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


ble up in his cabin in an effort to unceremoniously 
stand on his head endeavoring to measure his tongue 
down over his chin, these antics are generally gone 
through within the first few hours on the water. Af¬ 
ter the nostrils become inflated with sea breeze, and 
the whole system becomes attuned to the sea air, the 
pill bag becomes satisfied to take in and retain all 
good eatables without rebelling against their intru¬ 
sion. 

The first thing a tourist needs to do on entering 
the boat is to make his room look homelike. Open¬ 
ing my hand bag I drew forth a large and beautiful 
calendar for 1911, a Christmas present by a dear 
friend, which I hung on the wall; beside it hung my 
travellog. I next placed on my table a manicure set, 
a collar box, cuffbox, medicine case, box of neckties, 
an Ingersoll watch. This watch is to keep the time 
undergoing changes in tour. My pocket watch keeps 
home time. In this way, I guess what certain ones 
are doing in the Queen City. Removing my clothes 
from my trunk and having them repressed ready for 
8 p. m. dinner, musicale and soiree. Placing my 
soap and towels in the “washer-drawer,” brushes on 
dresser rack, slippers in case, by my bed, induced me 
to think my room was ready for eighty days’ cruise 
to the Orient; and everything appearing as near home 
like as space permits. 

The first Steward, all this time was busily engaged 
in assigning passengers to their respective table chairs. 
I made this incident a special one, for experience 
taught me much. I walked into the Steward’s room 
as soon as the door first swung open. Approaching that 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


23 


important officer, hat in one hand, American Eagle 
and my ticket in the other, I gave my name as I handed 
the gold piece and my cabin ticket with the other. He 
thanked me as he glanced apparently to see me so as 
to remember me, for the gold was given for that pur¬ 
pose; he slipped the coin into his vest pocket as he 
informed me: “Your position entitles you to a chair 
at the head of the first table.” I was so assigned. His 
words conveying noticeable import, were for the ears 
of those fellow passengers coming behind me and who 
did not see the tip. And it made me feel that I was 
an ex-president journeying abroad for pleasure, and 
to be feted by royal blood on the other side. 



CHAPTER II 


SOCIOLOGY 

I fear I have overtaxed your patience in relating 
the incidents attending the pushing away of the big 
boat from its mooring in the New York harbor. You 
need not fear that I will repeat again such experi¬ 
ences, unless such contingency arises. I generally 
keep clear of personal difficulties by assuming an air of 
cultured sanctity, not carried by most tourists. You 
may next wonder what I am going to write about to 
make the reading interesting. Let me first take you 
into my personal confidence; do not say anything 
about what I am now going to tell you, for I give you 
the secret not to be repeated. I wouldn't let it get 
out for a million until I safely leave this side of the 
Atlantic. By this I mean after we land and resail 
from Lisbon; that is our first place of landing. Now, 
look round the corner and see that no one is lis¬ 
tening.-Well, I am going to Constantinople to 

get-don’t breathe it, but it is true. I see in your 

face pictured a living interrogation mark, running 
from the crown of your forehead down to the pretty 
dimple on the jumping off place on your chin. You 
are dying to know the secret; well it is nearly cruel 
to keep you in suspense so long, in fact, I did not even 
tell my most intimate friends at home; I think so much 

24 




THE GLOBE TROTTER 


25 


of you, and I know you won’t repeat it to any one; 
here it goes. Oh, I am afraid you will tell just some¬ 
one—all right, here goes the secret; I am going to 
Constantinople, oh, you are so anxious, don’t you 
tell; I’m going for a wife. Now, shoot it, I’m afraid 
you’ll tell. I see another interrogation mark burn¬ 
ing on those rosy peaches on that face, that I would 
like to claim as my own. You want to know why 
I am going twelve thousand miles to get a wife, a 
woman that I haven't seen! don't know that she speaks 
English, a non-Christian, couldn’t tell the difference, 
if she saw in print, the Constitution of the United 
States from the Lord’s Prayer. Could not attune her 
musical ear so as to enable herself to recognize the 
difference in meter between “Yankee Doodle,” or 
“Cornin’ thru the Rye.” Couldn’t make a corn cake 
any more than she could make a convincing speech 
in English on female suffrage, and wouldn’t sweep a 
house no more than she would turn a back somer¬ 
sault without disarranging her hair. Wouldn’t milk 
a cow no more than she would buck heads with a 
be whiskered goat. Yet, I do want you to understand 

that I couldn’t marry at home, for it weren’t-1 

promised not to tell. I could tell of a widow with 
six dependences proposed to me and she offered to 
throw in a house and lot. Another widow with a 
farm proposed on the conditions that I’d make the 
fires. Do you want to know what I do believe of 
our American women? It is this: they are the best 
women, the best looking, the most lovely women in 
the world. I proposed to one whose father counts 
his millions in the forties; she replied that she loved 




26 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


me dearly. I knew this to be a fact, for we were in¬ 
deed lovely to each other, but as she said, I was only 
an American with only a Christian name, without a 
royal title, and her mother had contracted her to an 
old English Duke, seven years older than her father, 
with a mortgage equal to the value of his estate which 
father would have to lift, and deposit a few “M’s” as 
an endowment to care for the duke and herself, and 
perhaps all the little dukes and duchesses that their 
union might chance to engender.—Poor me, am just 
to have her love,—always to have her love, and the 
old, grizzly, moth-eaten, whisky stewed, gin pickled, 
beer bloated, wine painted, rheumatic, tottering duke 
is to have the rest. What do you think of that? 
Don’t say anything about it, but don’t you think I 
am excusable in going to the East to get an Oriental 
beauty, to while away my years? 

There are thousands of other American girls who 
will, with careful training, make charming compan¬ 
ions. Think of their requirements: an engagement 
diamond ring, three hundred; a wedding present, three 
hundred; expense of honeymoon, if in America, one 
thousand, if abroad, three thousand, which may in¬ 
clude some home-coming presents for mother-in-law, 
etc. The mother is then expected to give a grand 
“blowout” to the returning party at her home. Ten 
to fifteen thousand must be now invested in a nice 
home, for the bird so hard to be caught, furnishing 
same, half as much, the house to be opened with a 
“house warming,” at the expense of two to three 
hundred, which includes orchestra behind screens, 
mountains of green bowers, scented with choice, fresh 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


27 


cut flowers, with the besmearment of pint of Otter of 
Roses, and bouquets for each guest. When the bill is 
nearly paid, it is discovered a deficiency of a hundred 
more. Two horses and carriage, one runabout, a 
storm buggy, necessary harness—fifteen hundred. All 
friends have automobiles,—twenty-seven hundred 
more in coin goes down. It is now discovered that 
the stable man knows nothing about the care, man¬ 
agement and driving of an auto, therefore we must 
have an auto driver at fifty per month and board, 
fifty per month for auto repair. Now “Dearie” is 
informed that all other young brides have electric 
cars, shaft driven, magnetic control, “for you know, 
dearie, it is so nice to step into such a car, glide 
around, stop in front of big stores at the opening of 
the season, or when she goes out in the afternoon to 
return a call, or to attend a pink tea, you know, 
dearie.” Twenty-seven hundred more! About this 
time “birdie” has returned all the calls of the ladies 
who bowed in to see her beautiful home in obedience 
to the conventional usages made necessary by “Mam¬ 
ma’s reception” to the home-coming of perhaps two 
months ago. Now comes the opening of the new 
home, it is now in the list of the social swim. At the 
close of the year, the maintenance expense passes 
the six thousand mark, and nothing in sight but 
“birdie,” it is so unconventional to have children, no 
one would be thus annoyed, excepting the poor, un¬ 
educated or laborious wife, who has no better taste 
than to be annoyed, thrown out of shape, deprived of 
social privilege the “year around,” just to be wasting 
one’s time in the nursery. Oh, for one year of grand- 



<58 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


mama’s days. Would that George and Martha could 
arise and be with us for one year; though they did 
nothing themselves for posterity, it wasn’t their fault 
that George had to command an army, save his coun¬ 
try, while Martha stayed at home, made starry flags 
and kept George’s trousers patched and sent to the 
front with wool knit socks to keep his feet warm 
while crossing the Delaware. When the people sent 
him to the capitol to preside over administration of 
the new Republic, Martha went along, but George, 
he was kept busy writing all the time and rarely saw 
Martha excepting at meal times; things, socially, were 
so different those days, you know. My grandfather 
ofttimes told me that George used to explain to him 
these were the reasons why! Oh, George, I wish I 
had lived those days just to give you a pointer, 
though I suspect I’d make him jealous, because I 
like the looks of Martha’s picture. But let me get 
back to earth again long enough to say: that I hope 
the day is not far off when wives will be proud of 
motherhood and love the dear flesh of our flesh, and 
not be compelled to go to an orphans’ or a foundling 
institution to get a child to gladden their days and 
welcome their home-coming. Nature’s little prattling 
rosebuds in the average American home, aren’t so 
common as they used to be, or ought to be. The 
Scriptural commands are not observed. It partakes 
of what William S. says,—I use the word “says” be¬ 
cause his words are living idioms, fresh now as the 
day they were written by Bacon: 

“With immodest hatred, the child-bed privilege 
Denied, which ’longs to women of all fashion.” 




THE GLOBE TROTTER 


99 


And how again can we apply to young lovers those 
two beautiful lines of Dry den: 

“Their love in early infancy began, 

And rose as childhood ripened into man.” 

Hoping that my sayings may be an inducement to 
some wife to become the ambitious mother of an¬ 
other Romeo, may I by way of diverging from the 
tenor of my subject, or as Josh Billings would say, 
“Shying to the right/’ quote the words of that im¬ 
mortal Knight: 

“Doth she not think me an old murderer, 

Now I have stained the childhood of our joy.” 

Shall such as this in the future only be said by chil¬ 
dren whose childhood joy can alone refer to back 
woods or to an orphanage; or from children reared 
in misery? Is our country tending in this direc¬ 
tion? 

Do you ask why I am going to the Orient to get 
a wife? Are you surprised? I am not a believer in 
marrying a woman who is of herself self-sustaining 
by her own honorable toil. Yet there are many just 
such men. They are of the other extreme. 

The fun and the pleasure of this tour to the Orient, 
the world may never have known, and remained in 
the Shadow of Anonymith, had it not been for the 
fact that I had conceived an idea that somewhere 
in the Orient I could find a lovable, black-eyed maiden 
that awaited my coming. If none can be found wait¬ 
ing it is my intention to proceed from Constanti¬ 
nople to the Georgian Country north of the Black 
Sea, where it is said the most beautiful women in the 



30 


THE GLOBE TBOTTER 


world are reared and educated to be sold in the mar¬ 
ket for wives to be put in the harems, or sold to any 
man able to buy. If I should fail to have money 
to buy one, I have an idea that I can smuggle a run¬ 
away wife from the harem of some old Turk. I have 
no particular liking for an Oriental beauty, but all 
the beauties at home are engaged or about to be. I 
know you will think it is an awful long distance to 
go for a wife, nearly if not quite half the circum¬ 
ference of the earth, but my case is a desperate one. 
So you will readily imagine how poorly is my stand¬ 
ing at home. You see, we are very speculative in 
old Missouri. A man of ambition in Missouri is 
financially broke half the time and the other half of 
the time he is recuperating his lost fortune. Now 
suppose I lose my trunk, suit case and grip, owe a 
hotel bill with an American wife to support, what 
could I do? But suppose I hacl a Georgian beauty, 
eyes flashing like diamonds, raven black hair, eye¬ 
brows the envy of the portrait painter, a hand the 
beauty of which would paralyze the hand and arm of 
a master sculptor and freeze the mallet and chisel in 
his grasp, a pose that would knock silly a Saratoga 
belle, a waist that a multimillionaire would give a 
railroad for the privilege to permanently encircle, a 
foot that a duke would share his title to shoe, a jester 
that would send a dude four blocks and induce him 
to sell his overcoat to get a bouquet to present her; 
if I were on the verge of bankruptcy, say owing one 
hundred thousand dollars without a cent to pay, and 
the clothes on our backs, the only assets, I could pay 
every dollar and have money in the bank by adver- 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


31 


tising in a New York daily, renting a vacant store 
in upper Broadway, posing my wife in the rear of 
the room with proper side and sky lights to magnify 
her great Oriental beauty (having strong cross ropes 
in the room keeping the auditors twenty feet from 
the raised pedestal on which “The Queen of the 
Orient” reclined on a lounge), and charge fifty dol¬ 
lars for men and women, children half price. Half 
the nonenties that would pay to get in would not 
know but what there is such a being in the Orient 
as the “Queen of the Orient.” If the admission fee 
were only twenty-five cents none but boys and old 
women would go to see the fair one. It is little short 
of the wonderful how the American people like to be 
humbugged. I have read of women, that might be 
worth knowing. 

I do not know that my little knowledge is worth 
imparting, but I always thought every man ought to 
try to do something more than his neighbor. The 
man who most benefits mankind is he who originates 
new ideas that produce betterment for man’s enlight¬ 
enment. Kindly do not understand from these re¬ 
marks that I can give you anything new about women. 
She was here in Adam’s time and will be here when 
Adam’s name is lost in obscurity, if she will have to 
strangle the last man for the privilege of defying 
the lightning, while she is exclaiming from the moun¬ 
tain top: “The world is mine.” I glory in the ex¬ 
travagance of her expansion. I loved woman from 
the days of dear mother, and many thousand times 
have I been magnetized by their appealing eyes. A 
man who would not melt under such penetration 



82 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


would have to be wrong in his physical construction. 
Though I have seen men of normal mentality un¬ 
willingly play the part of the idiot because of such 
optical penetration. In globe trotting one has many 
opportunities of research of the curious findings in 
real life; and at times, too often without aid of an 
effort. 

When God designs for virtue an illustrous exam¬ 
ple of the human family, He exhibits His subject 
openly before all the world. Then does the reputa¬ 
tion of the man or woman shine in all its glittering 
glory, as an exponent of all that is good and true; 
and the character it has achieved receives from pos¬ 
terity the tribute of its praise. 

To live right, we must do right, we will die right, 
and to do our duty we must love one another. How 
sad the journey of life of man if he had no one to 
love him, the birds would sing, he would not hear 
them, the rippling brook would pass unnoticed, the 
flowers would bloom without his knowledge of their 
fragrance. Take woman’s love from the life of man 
and there seems to him nothing but open space. We 
love woman because she is good. She is beautiful 
even when unadorned. We want to talk with her be¬ 
cause she is beautiful and charming. For what is 
beauty if it be not seen. Why charming unless an 
opportunity be given to charm. Beauty and charm 
of person command the world. Helen of Troy sum¬ 
moned Greece to arms and drew a thousand ships to 
battle. The classic gods who reigned in the mythical 
days preceding sacred history, gave to Helen beauty 
and heavenly form that made all who came beneath 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


33 


her gaze bow to her commands and yield in submis¬ 
sion to her wishes. Beauty is nature’s coin. It 
brightens by use, but while unsought is like a neg¬ 
lected rose, bending and withering prematurely. 
Catherine of Russia, once sold as a slave, possessed 
beauty, wit and form that made her the crown head 
of the great empire. But her beauty gave her weak¬ 
ness ; she became vain as vanity, her false friends 
educated her to use the cup. She foolishly claimed 
her body could resist the effects of liquor. She drank 
until her Empire was in open disgrace. 

A dissertation on the great beauties of the past is 
not so interesting to you as those of to-day. You 
want to know how I succeeded in the Orient. I 
want to assure you that if I survive the tour, for we 
are still more than thirty days from Constantinople, 
I will in another letter before I close my series of 
letters or chapters, tell you my experience in my en¬ 
deavors in search of a wife, to get just what I want. 
I may have to climb a stone wall of a castle, or scale 
the stone armament of a harem garden, but I am to 
get there is my impression. Should I become con¬ 
vinced that I can do better by going up into the 
Georgian country and buying in the market, I may 
go there. In any event, follow my tour into the 
Orient and learn of my research; it may be read¬ 
able. 



CHAPTER III 


THE SHIP 

The ship is in her third year of service, nearly 
eighteen thousand tons displacement. 

She is now manned by a crew of four hundred 
thirty-four people. Breakfast is served from eight 
to ten o’clock; coffee or beef tea with crackers is 
passed round at eleven o’clock. Regular lunch at one 
o’clock. Tea and cake are passed round at four o’clock. 
Dinner at seven o’clock; to those who remain in the 
Social Hall, the Rest Room, the Smoking Room or 
deck, cake with sweet meats served at eleven o’clock 
p. m. 

The band plays from eight to ten o’clock a. m.; 
in the evening from four to five o’clock, coming into 
and going out of ports, meeting vessels and the in¬ 
coming of vessels when at anchor. The string band 
plays from six to seven o’clock during the dinner hour 
every evening. A small orchestra of classic artists, 
plays in the Social Hall from three to four o’clock 
p. m., and later from nine to eleven o’clock. Balls 
are frequently given on the promenade deck from 
nine to twelve o’clock p. m. Music by the large or¬ 
chestra. At which time the promenade deck is closely 
canvased in, and the ceiling decorated in bunting. 
Lemonade and cake are served as refreshment dur- 


34 




OUR OCEAN HOME 


Page 34 



























THE GLOBE TROTTER 


35 


ing the ball. The captain gives a ball once each 
month. Lincoln and Washington birthdays were ob¬ 
served by proper ceremonies and music. The birth¬ 
days of notabes aboard are celebrated by the band at 
six o’clock a. m. 

The table food is equal, if not superior, to our best 
American hotels. Twelve to fourteen courses at din¬ 
ner; eight to ten courses for breakfast. 

The state-rooms, as well as the beds, are spotlessly 
clean. Linen changed every day. Incandescent lamps 
to be turned off and on any time of night at the will 
of the occupant. All state-rooms are modern. 

The doors, as well as all the interior cabinets, are 
trimmed in brass, which is vigorously polished every 
day. 

\ 

At the hour of six o’clock a. m. there is a roll call 
of the crew on each deck; each one announces his or 
her name, at which time they commence their work, 
and work for the day and continue until six o’clock 
p. m. But at all times, day or night, the stewards are 
subject to call of a passenger, and in the nicest man¬ 
ner comply with every request. In this way one may 
have reason to think that the stewards never sleep. 
No child was ever more obedient to parent or teacher 
than are these people to the tourists. 

Taking colds, by people coming from high altitude 
is very prevalent aboard a ship. An order at any 
time of night for hot water, hot lemonade or punch, 
secures faithful, as well as prompt attention. A re¬ 
quest for many things, seemingly unnecessary, re¬ 
ceives as prompt attention as though of the greatest 
importance. No exhibition of temper, nor complaint 



36 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


is ever heard emanating from one of the crew, but the 
familiar words : “Do you need anything else,” or “can 
I further serve you?” is what you hear. 

When not in actual duty, the genial face and char¬ 
acteristic smile of our captain and first officer of the 
ship are greeting the people in tour. Taking in all, 
every officer and member of the crew seemingly wants 
to make every moment of the passengers’ sojourn 
among them pleasant and cheerful. 

Going to and from the ship on lighters, or in row 
boats, the most stalwart of the sailors, with the grace 
of ease, hands the passengers to and from the boat 
to the platform leading to the ship's stairway; that 
is dropped from one of the decks down along the 
ship to within two feet of the water. It matters not 
how wet the sailor gets in the performance of this 
duty, his face is radiant with smiles, and his words of 
cheer and assurance of “no danger” are always heard. 

A first-class up-to-date printing office, with three 
expert workmen, is kept busy printing menus, book¬ 
lets of movements of the boat, booklets of each phase 
of land trips; giving the time, the expense, the names 
of the hotels, the time of return to the boat, etc. 

You may imagine the magnitude of the laundry 
that does the work for nearly a thousand people, in 
the way cleanliness is observed on a ship. 

The bath rooms are on each deck for the use of the 
passengers, in which sea water or fresh water, hot or 
cold, can be used in the finest porcelain bath tubs; 
marble floors, benches, heavy towels covering the en¬ 
tire body, small rubbing towels, making a daily bath 
refreshing. 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


37 


We are truly travelling de luxe. In our side trips 
sometimes from one to two weeks inland, all we have 
to do is to pack our handbags and trunks, label them, 
with a card given by the boat for that purpose. They 
are conveyed from the ship to the train and safely 
and carefully delivered in our rooms in whatever city 
we go to; and in cities where our incursion is too 
large for the proper handling of all of our people, 
our stewards accompany us; again from place to 
place our stewards look after every detail of our bag¬ 
gage and our personal comfort. 

The exterior of the ship is painted once each month. 
This is made necessary by the atmospheric action of 
the salt water on the iron. 



CHAPTER IV 


THE STORM AT SEA 

You have read again and again a description of a 
storm at sea? The brain of the most brilliant writer 
never yet conceived words to put into language a 
proper description of such a scene. The hand of the 
most gifted painter never yet portrayed even a feeble 
conception of what it really is. There is, in a storm 
at sea, the beautiful rising breeze arousing pleasure 
that induces tourists to get on the promenade deck to 
see the swelling of the rolling waves, followed by the 
rising of the first “white-caps,” as they are called, 
when they are getting into motion to lash the water 
beyond its folds; this agitated water is so thrown, that 
in scattering it is in sheets through which can be 
seen the blue ocean beneath, giving to it a white ap¬ 
pearance. This is the initiative in the rising of the 
curtain portraying the scenes that follow: for this is 
nature’s greatest drama; it has its series of real events 
invested with dramatic unity, interest and action. Its 
progeny is in nature itself. Its principal species dif¬ 
fering from the stage drama in this: You go to a 
theatre and you know from the title of the drama 
whether it is to be tragedy, comedy, tragic-comedy, 
tarce, burlesque, melodrama or opera. You view the 
scenes as the movement of the drama proceeds, the 

38 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


39 


whole structure is dramatic, or should be, and should 
be full of action. If acquainted with the story before 
you, you know the denouement; that is, the closing 
scenes of the catastrophe of the plot; the issue or re¬ 
sult of the drama. In nature’s drama the denoue¬ 
ment is not known until the ocean’s waves sleep. 
When its curtain goes down, it too often has its audi¬ 
ence beneath its folds, and the properties used to make 
up the scenes are never again put back in their former 
places. The stage is cleared, no scenery in view, the 
blue waves, the only thing to be seen, may be slightly 
restless, yet smooth, peaceful as in slumber, not a 
sail to be seen, nor a puff of smoke to mar the har¬ 
mony of the azure horizon. All is tranquil. If a 
critic may appear in a theatre to write of the per¬ 
sonnel of the interpreters of the drama, in this drama, 
the goddess of the sea looks at the critic and then 
points below. 

I ask your pardon for my unintentional divergence 
from the tenor of my narrative. One passing through 
a storm is apt to have his brain a little addled, which 
may take a few days to swing it back into its equili¬ 
brium, and to again learn how to walk as a sober 
man walks after trying to keep on his feet while be¬ 
ing tossed about by the maddened waves. To gain 
one’s equipoise after such shaking up, the better way 
is to place your back against a door or a partition 
wall of the ship; be sure you are straight, then step 
forward, good solid short steps, just as you have seen 
a drunken man do. In this way the law of nature 
comes to your assistance. If you can’t make it, then 
recall the law of gravity, and your mind will re- 



40 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


fleet that your body must be stable, unstable or neu¬ 
tral; if the first you can walk erect, if the second your 
walk will be of the grapevine swagger, if neutral just 
sit on the floor until you can imagine the floor is in 
an easy pose, then go to your berth and sleep soundly 
and remain there until you feel refreshed. 

Again asking your pardon for unintentionally wan¬ 
dering from the description of the storm to tell you 
of its effects, I believe I said the first thing noticed is 
the breaking of the whitecaps. Yet, whitecaps may be 
seen nearly every day, for weeks and months, and 
then be followed by calm weather. But to describe 
this particular storm, it has no difference in action 
from a like one I saw years ago. In this one, we had 
partaken of breakfast after a rough night, and many 
were out on deck walking for exercise; others for the 
inhalation of the ozone of the sea, which perhaps 
was largely infused by oxygen caused by electrical 
atmospheric action that at times precedes an electri¬ 
cal storm, giving a faint metallic odor. It became 
known to nearly all tourists that the water was get¬ 
ting “fleecy,” which induced many to get up on the 
promenade deck. The sky was clear, from whence 
came the winds that were agitating the water? The 
eyes of no one on deck could see. The whitecaps 
became so plentiful that to the eye's limit the sea 
was now nearly white. In my mind, I had dark 
forebodings, for I well remembered the hurricane that 
swept these waters in October, 1904, when the next 
day the shores were strewn with the debris of the 
many ship wrecks. But I kept my thoughts on this 
day to myself. There was too much laughing and 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


41 


jesting at the antics of the waves; I did not wish to 
mar the happiness of those who were enjoying the 
scenes before us. A frisky widow of thirty or more 
summers, whose acquaintance I had not yet the 
pleasure of claiming, made bold enough to suggest 
to me that she could not understand how there 
could be wind without a cloud. Then she asked 
me: 

‘‘Does such a phenomena presage anything un¬ 
usual ?” 

To which I replied: 

“Though our ship is nearly seven hundred feet in 
length, and nearly two thousand tons displacement, 
you will soon fell her rise and settle back in the waves, 
as though she were a chip.’’ 

“I can’t understand,” said she, with the long accent 
on “a” in “can’t.” 

She was truly a cultured lady, having read much, 
but perhaps not of sea travel. She then wandered 
away with her mother, with a knowing curiosity on 
her face. The old sailors began to be seen on the 
deck testing the ropes on the life boats. I knew the 
reason of their coming. I stepped close to one of 
them and in an undertone asked: 

“Has the boat received a wireless as to what time 
it will be here?” 

He looked me straight in the eyes as he breathed 
between his teeth and almost immovable lips: 

“Were you ever at sea a’fore?” 

“Many times,” said I. “I was on a smaller boat 
than this along here in October, 1904, when we had 


to 




42 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


He raised his hand as he interrupted me and mur¬ 
mured : 

“On the Comanche?” 

I nodded in the affirmative. 

“You helped to save the second officer. I now re¬ 
member you well,” said he. 

Coming almost against me he ventured to say: 

“Do you remember how that hurricane began, just 
as this is, my boy, but this time we have a stronger 
boat, though the other boat got us safely into port. 
If these people knew what was coming they’d be be¬ 
low on their marrow bones praying to get ashore. 
But I must not be talking.” 

“You are up here to tell every one to go below, and 
then fasten all ports?” I asked. 

“Whist,” said he, in almost a whistle, as my newly- 
made acquaintance, her mother on her arm, was nearly 
back to me. The sailor moved on in a careless way 
as though he was out only for exercise. 

“My dear sir,” began the young widow, “you must 
have travelled much on sea?” 

“Why?” asked I. 

“Oh, you said the ship would soon begin to rise 
and settle back, and bless me if you didn’t guess 
right, what say you?” 

“You will pardon me,” and I, “but I did not guess, 
I know.” 

“Experience?” asked she. 

“Well, I might say yes, to that inquiry, I will also 
tell you now that within thirty minutes you will see 
a great cloud in the west rise as though out of the 
sea; though it will be eight or ten miles away it will 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


43 


look much like a mountain nearby, it will seem less 
than a mile away. Now, madam, I advise you to take 
your mother below.” A wide trough in the sea 
now permitted the boat to heave forward which nearly 
took the old lady off her feet. I was standing firm, 
holding a guy cable by my left hand, with the in¬ 
tention to remain there until the sailors ordered all 
below. 

After seeing her mother to her state-room, the 
widow returned to my side. 

It never appeared strange to me, why young widows 
have affinity for men they like, even on short ac¬ 
quaintance. 

“There,” exclaimed she, stopping long enough to 
point one hand to the west while holding my arm by 
the other. I looked. The great cloud rising seem¬ 
ingly less than a mile away faster than you ever saw 
a full moon rise. This was a self constituted signal 
for all on deck to scuddle below. It was not neces¬ 
sary for the sailors to command or suggest. The 
waves began now to lash the sides of the ship and 
all the pendants were taken down. It was but a few 
minutes until we were alone with the sailors. It was 
but a few minutes more until the banking cloud com¬ 
pletely covered the horizon, and lightning flashing 
from the clouds in a careless, zigzag way, which per¬ 
haps was the cause of the apparent electric sparks 
that were emanating from the water through the 
fleecy whitecaps, making it appear as sparkling soda. 
Though evidently the sparkling effect was caused by 
the air which was then electrically charged. 

“Catch me!” I heard a voice scream immediately 



44 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


behind me. I quickly turned and grabbed the widow 
as a sudden tilt of the ship broke her loose from me. 
The heaving of the ship was about to bump her 
against one of the ship’s funnels. I led her back to 
the guy rope and held her by the arm, and she ven¬ 
tured to suggest: 

“You had better take a body hold, or we may go 
overboard.” 

My right arm needed no further encouragement to 
surround her waist, and when I apologized for the 
privilege, she quickly replied: 

“I don’t mind it, it is quite appropriate under the 
present circumstances.” This was a privilege that en¬ 
titled me to do my best. I knew there were no 
eavesdroppers in sight; the sailors were testing every 
rope. I rather liked the pose. She not objecting, and 
I was gallantly inclined. I was hardly aware of the 
movement of her left arm, until I felt it gripping be¬ 
neath my coat and round my body tightly. When 
we went forward or backward, we went together. I 
was reasonably well provided with things natural for 
the time being. In fact, comfortably situated if you 
wish. An occasional wave would dash clear across 
the bow of the boat. We were above now on the 
hurricane deck. The lightning now began to flirt 
with us and became too familiar, in fact, to come un¬ 
comfortably close. It seemed to make ringlets on 
the water and horse shoes in the air. Its right angles 
in the clouds were easier seen than described. My 
left arm, which I had wrapped around the guy iron, 
grew tired, but I could not make the change without 
releasing the widow. 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


45 


Hugging a young widow is delightfully pleasant 
under nearly any circumstances; but all pleasures have 
a limit to the feelings they create, and this was one of 
them. Perhaps if love tingled from heart to heart 
there might have arisen a sensation that even weari¬ 
ness would withstand. I gradually felt my arm 
loosening about the dear one, and then tighten up 
again. Fearing my grip might be a little too tight, 
I said to her: “I ask your pardon, madam,” to which 
she quietly replied: 

“I don't mind it." No one but a widow of ex¬ 
perience could say those four words as she did. I 
would have tickled her a little if we had been better 
acquainted. 

The thunder now was quite nearly deafening and 
so intense the flashing lightning that one flash seem¬ 
ingly was attached to the one preceding it. One look¬ 
ing at the surging waves, now lashing in all their 
fury, the vivid flashes of the lightning, the moaning 
of the angry sea, present to one’s view nature’s great¬ 
est panorama; a spectacle that is rarely, if ever, seen 
in such majestic grandeur. The presence of such a 
scene presented unusual thoughts in the minds of the 
passengers, and these thoughts pass through one’s 
mind rapidly, first the grandeur of such a scene; sec¬ 
ond, the inconveniences it causes ; third, the probable 
dangers arising from its effects; fourth, the fear that 
the ship may not withstand the strength of the in¬ 
creasing weight of the waves; lastly, the prayerful 
hopes that all on board may be saved. 

A sharp flash of lightning that nearly encircled the 
boat and seemed as though it was intended for the 



4 6 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


ship, nearly blinded us, and as a heart-rending peal of 
thunder followed at once, induced the belief that the 
cloud was nearby. 

“Ahoy! Ahoy!” cried a sailor coming towards us 
waving his hand, “get away from that iron guy; its 
a wonder you weren’t killed.” It was my first thought 
of danger. I let loose the guy but held fast to the 
widow. 

“Hold on to me!” she gasped. 

“Go below,” commanded the sailor, pointing wind¬ 
ward. “Don’t you see the big mountain coming?” 
Sure enough, we saw a wave seemingly a hundred 
feet high, a mile away coming directly towards us. 
A quick motion forward of the ship evidenced the 
fact that the navigator called below for more speed 
to avoid the collision with the wave. I grabbed the 
fair one about the waist and ran directly for the hatch¬ 
way. The sailors were going in the same direction. 
We all got safely down and the hatch door was closed 
and safely hooked beneath, when we heard a sailor 
say: 

“The big wave will go clear over the ship.” I 
hurriedly escorted the lady to her state-room, bump¬ 
ing through the hallway, and regained the saloon just 
as the wave struck and washed clear over the ship. 
The boat settled down and then came up like a fish. 
The first and second officers were, at the time, lashed 
to the bridge. 

The scenes of grandeur were now in the majesty of 
their greatness; the danger attending such a violent 
shock was now in the minds of a few hundred people 
locked up in this great steel box, containing heat, 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


47 


steam, ventilation, and motive power to propel this 
huge vessel through this mighty tempest. The minds 
of the tourists were wondering whether or not the 
mechanical skill and ingenuity of man in making this 
sea craft, made it strong enough to withstand the 
onslaught of the continuous waves that beat against 
it with such stupendous force. Again and again the 
great waves washed over the boat. I saw the pas¬ 
sengers quickly going below. It put me in mind of 
the action of the little prairie dogs of the west, in 
scudding into their holes in the presence of approach¬ 
ing danger. All ports were now closed, the ship’s 
band was sent aft and was now discoursing its most 
forcible martial music as a resistance to the force of 
fear of the attending danger now threatening the 
people of the ship. For it was then the severest con¬ 
flict of the mighty powers of the storm which was 
moaning in all the madness of its rage, was at the 
zenith of its fury. The waves were lashing the ship, 
the wind whistling through the ropes and the masts, 
while the tensile strength of the iron structure of the 
ship, as well as the nerves of the human beings within, 
was strained to the limit of endurance. The music 
of the band could be heard through the fierceness of 
the storm, and its soothing effect could be seen in 
the faces of many. 

Nearly every apparent approaching catastrophe has 
its humorous setting or incident. One of the ports, 
having glass nearly three inches in thickness, was 
broken by a heavy wave and a piece of the glass was 
shot through an opposite partition. The opening of 
about sixteen inches permitted several barrels of water 



48 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


to submerge a bed occupied by an Italian, who up to 
this moment was sound asleep. He ran out in his 
night shirt, soaked as though submerged in the ocean. 
Although a man of thirty or more years, he was cry¬ 
ing, thinking the ship was sinking. He said: 

“Will excuse me ladies mo-pulling his wet 

night shirt from his body. I saw he couldn't remem¬ 
ber its name and I exclaimed aloud: 

“Call it your General Jackson!” He caught the 
name: 

“Mo General Jackson he am much wet.” 

After we quieted him I loaned him some clothes. 

I ran upstairs to the upper deck, with pencil and 
paper to write of the storm as the majesty of the 
battle was still going on. I could find no words ade¬ 
quate. I recalled to mind that Longfellow went to the 
falls of Minnehaha to write Hiawatha. The old 
school master, Thomas Carlyle, closed his school to 
go to the place where the goddess of war made the 
genius of Napoleon immortal. Molier wrote plays 
and then became an actor to secure inspiration to im¬ 
prove them and better interpret their meanings. Bal¬ 
zac visited the death bed of a miser to catch his last 
words, and his description of a dying miser passed 
into history as one of the highest gems of literature. 

If Neptune is still god of the sea, he evidently had 
some grudge against a fair one on board, for among 
the many tourists, beautiful young girls, and widows, 
as well as matrons made every nook and corner of 
the big ship smile during good weather. 

Although it was the noon of day, it was necessary 
that the electric lights be all turned on. The tables 




THE GLOBE TROTTER 


49 


for noon lunch were attempted to be set, the side¬ 
boards and the tables, to prevent the dishes being 
spilt off, were fastened, and few cloths were spread, 
but all efforts to carry dishes to the tables were in 
vain. The boat was on the “larboard’’ side and the 
next moment on the “starboard” side; then the bow 
was dipping deep into the trough of the sea dividing- 
two waves; it was when the ship was trying, as the 
boy put it, “to stand on its snoot,” that the screw pro¬ 
pellers were high in the air far above the water, 
their motion increased by lack of the water resistance 
and their great speed shook the whole frame of the 
ship. The next moment the bow of the ship was high 
above the water, and the rudder deep into the sea. 
No one needed lunch, their uncertain minds were yield¬ 
ing to higher thoughts, many were in prayer, others 
trying to brave the rising fears. The storm was at 
its zenith. The question was, would the boat weather 
the storm, or would the raging tempest, now mad¬ 
dened to its greatest fury and moaning in all the 
anger of its wrath, swamp the ship? It was the 
handiwork of man combatting ag'ainst the power of 
nature. The ocean was not created for the destruc¬ 
tion of human beings, but for man’s benefit. Yet, 
to use the ocean safely, requires the construction of 
crafts by man’s brain and muscle to withstand the 
elements, as well as to enjoy the pleasure of its placid 
water. 

I said there were many people in prayer, but by this 
time, those not in prayer, were imploring and be¬ 
seeching the Master for protection. I always be¬ 
lieved in prayer. In three hours the winds quieted 



50 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


down with the peaceful setting of the sun. Whether 
the artful construction of man’s brain or the prayer 
reached above, may never be known. The swelling 
waves were slow to subside, though unsupported by 
the furies of the elements. Nature’s greatest drama 
rung down its curtain, and the denouement was com¬ 
plete. 



CHAPTER V 


AZORES 

This is Friday, seven days out. We have been 
passing through the Azores Islands for the past six 
hours. These islands are eight hundred miles due 
west of Portugal. Inhabitants 30,000. Plenty of 
evergreen trees. It is here the best pineapple grows, 
two crops per year. Other citric fruit food is grown 
in abundance and exported. A few yellow buildings, 
—all the others are pure white. The islands are all 
mountains, the little mountain farms are in terraces, 
in methodical precision. The perpendicular lines are 
little hedges dividing the fields. The hedges are said 
to be a low bush, that blooms in May and so con¬ 
tinues all summer. 

Unlike those at home or in Europe the houses are 
not on the farms, but are in little villages of a few 
hundred people. There are but few roads, and our 
captain caused our navigator to keep from half a 
mile to a mile from shore. The channel, being deep, 
made this pleasure seeing safe. We saw many moun¬ 
tain streams coming down the mountain side. 

The roads run zig-zag. Everything is green. The 
first printed matters left on our dinner plates and 
sent to the state-rooms to those who needed no din¬ 
ner, was the change of the ship’s course, the time we 

51 


52 THE GLOBE TROTTER _ 

would see the Azores Islands, the time passing 
through them, and the time we would reach Lisbon, 
the duration of the stay in Lisbon and the interior 
excursion to Portugal, the attending expense, etc. 

The storm had abated, and the sea was trying to 
take a rest, before we came in sight of the Azores. 
We always know when we’re within seventy-five to 
one hundred miles of shore, for the never failing sea¬ 
gulls meet the ship to gather the ship’s waste, which 
they vigorously fight for on the water and in the 
air. 

It was a bright sunny morning when our glasses 
discovered the Azores. In fact, it was welcome news. 
They, seemingly, were like high hay stacks rising out 
of the sea, though it was eleven o'clock before we en¬ 
tered the channel dividing the mountain islands, for 
that is what they are. Mountains ranging from three 
thousand to seventy-five hundred feet high. The first 
one hundred or so feet from the water is a perpen¬ 
dicular rock, from this slope back fields of green 
pineapple, for that is practically the principal product 
of the Islands. These pineapples are said to be the 
finest grade grown. 

As our ship came within perhaps ten miles of the 
islands, a large school of porpoises appeared, thou¬ 
sands of them disporting themselves by skimming the 
water, others by jumping ten to twenty feet along 
over the waves. They continued along with us 
through the channel, which must be one hundred or 
more miles, out again into the open ocean where they 
all disappeared as quickly as they first appeared. They 
only resemble the North Atlantic porpoise in shape. 




THE GLOBE TROTTER 


53 


These porpoises are from three to four feet in length, 
striped sides, and weighing about one hundred and 
fifty to two hundred pounds. Whilst the northern 
porpoise, which I saw six years ago, is of a solid gray 
color and nearly double the size of those here. 

The peculiarities of the Azores are, that we saw 
but two places where access can be had from land 
to the sea without being let down over the rocks by 
ropes to the boats below. 

The houses are in groups, the little farms of but 
a few acres each are separated by green hedges, re¬ 
sembling our native privet. Streams of pure, clear 
water come down the mountain sides and unre¬ 
strainedly empty over the high rocks into the sea a 
hundred feet below. 

The most beautiful scene was presented to our 
view at high noon while passing Pico, the highest 
mountain of the group. The sky was cloudless; a 
circular cloud about half a mile down from the top 
of the mountain crest, was like a moving belt con¬ 
stantly going around the mountain below the line of 
snow. By the aid of our glasses we could plainly 
see the snow drifting into great piles. The snow ex¬ 
tended down perhaps a mile from the top of the 
mountain. Between the snow and the green fields 
was a circular strip around the mountain void of 
vegetation perhaps too warm to contain snow, too 
cold for the growth of vegetation. 

My eyes dropped to the rippling waves of the blue 
waters of the Atlantic below; there the impenetrable 
black line of rocks standing out as a fortress; then 
the green pineapple fields; the evergreen oak, palms, 



54 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


poplars, limes, magnolias, and araucaria all flowering 
alike. Among the most characteristic and singular 
features are the huge moors of citrus, the yellow flow¬ 
ers of which alternate with rosemary and myrtles. 
The winterless zone; above cold and void of nature’s 
production, save the restless clouds encouraged by 
its atmospheric current; then above the agitated snow 
fields to the crest of the mountain top; then far above 
could be seen the Azorian blue sky, which re¬ 
calls to our minds the fathomlessness of the great un¬ 
known beyond. 








CHAPTER VI 


LISBON 

We were, at the time of leaving the Azores, eight 
hundred and fifty miles from Lisbon, Portugal. I 
was up the second morning on the hurricane deck 
with glasses in hand to catch the first sight of the 
mainland. I was not alone. The first land we saw 
was a mountain fifteen miles inland, which we after¬ 
wards learned to be the mountain at Cintra, and 
where we went our second day while anchoring at 
Lisbon. Cintra contains the mountain to view the 
palace of the late young king, who lost his crown 
and who fled to England to escape the violence 
and wrath of his people for the same alleged offense 
for which the populace took the lives of his father 
and brother two years before. 

As we reached the mainland we noticed it was much 
lower than the Azores, but coming nearer, we dis¬ 
covered that the land first seen was mountains twenty 
miles inward from the shore. Then the city of Lis¬ 
bon shone beautiful under the rays of a clear bright 
sun on the white marble houses on the hill tops over 
the river Tagus. The city is eight miles up the river 
from the coast, where we dropped anchor in the mid¬ 
dle of the stream a mile from shore. 

Perhaps some of you may not know the condition 


56 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


of the government in Portugal. It has been a king¬ 
dom for the past centuries, until recently. Three 
years ago the people of that country decided they 
had borne tyranny long enough. Their King was 
opposed to education, enriching his own treasury, 
and living a life of dissipation and debauchery to 
such an open and unbearable degree, that secret or¬ 
ganizations all over the land declared his downfall. 
They met him in the street and shot him and his 
eldest son to death, placing the second son, a lad of 
twenty years on the throne, with the thought that the 
terrible retribution meted out to the father would be 
a lasting lesson to the son. This fearful drama in 
real life restrained his baseness for nearly two years, 
when he began to deplete the national treasury in 
gifts to undeserving ones. A plan was being made 
for his disposal, which reached his knowledge in time 
for an early departure to England where he still re¬ 
sides. A republic was then formed and the legisla¬ 
ture is now framing a constitution to submit to the 
people, federal constitution with provisions quite un¬ 
like our federal constitution. They will have no 
foreign ministers or plenipotentiaries, leaving to the 
consuls the duties we impose on our ministers. The 
joint houses of the legislature will elect the Presi¬ 
dent, whose term of office shall be five years. 

At ten o'clock a. m., the lighters took us ashore. 

The Tagus is a large river, perhaps two to three 
miles wide, and deep enough to permit anchorage of 
the largest ocean ships. 

The Republic of Portugal has an area of 34,335 
square miles, containing 5,016,267 inhabitants. 




PORTUGUESE BEAUTY 


Page 56 












THE GLOBE TROTTER 


57 


In antiquity the country belonged to the Roman 
province of Lusitania. At a later date it was over¬ 
run by the Germanic tribes of the Vandals, Alans, 
Suevi, and Visigoths. In the eighth century, the 
Moors invaded the district. Ferdinand the First con¬ 
quered the north part of the country about the mid¬ 
dle of the eleventh century. 

Portugal early entered into intimate relations with 
England. In 1383 the male line of the house Al- 
fonzo IV died out, and the estates, in order to avoid 
reunion with Castile, elected the Grand Master of 
the Knights of Aviz, a natural son of the last ruler, 
as king with the title of John I. This sovereign mar¬ 
ried Phillippa, daughter of John IV, of Gaunt, and 
concluded the important Treaty of Windsor with Eng¬ 
land in 1386. He was also the first foreign monarch 
to receive the Order of the Garter. With him be¬ 
gins the heroic age of Portuguese history. 

For this reason I give these facts. But few of us 
have the necessary time to study history as we should. 

No country has more natural varieties of advan¬ 
tages than Portugal. On the coast far-projecting 
promontories of naked rock alternate with huge dunes. 
The mountains of Northern Portugal and the Sierra 
da Estrella attain an almost Alpine altitude; the rich 
wine districts of the Douro, with its terraces toil¬ 
somely wrung from the clayey soil, reveal the rocky 
slopes on the Rhine. The valley of the Tagus, re¬ 
calls the Elba at Dresden. Lisbon is famous in his¬ 
tory and music. But few know of the climate and 
soil conditions of Portugal. The heat of the southern 
sun is tempered by the cool breath of the sea. Side 



58 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


by side grow the century plant of Mexico, the pine of 
the north and the eucalyptus of Australia, the camelia- 
tree of Japan and the maple, the juniper and the 
cypress. 

The chief features of the new constitution will be 
as follows: 

The National Assembly, elected on a democratic 
franchise, and consisting of two hundred deputies, 
will, as in France, elect the President of the Republic, 
who will hold office for five years,—one year longer 
than the American President, and three years shorter 
than the President of the French Republic. The 
Parliament, as in Switzerland, will also directly ap¬ 
point the ministers, who will be its executive officers, 
and will also hold office for five years, when as in 
Switzerland the Executive Council of seven Minis¬ 
ters is elected only for three years. 

Lisbon is one of the cleanest cities in the world. It 
is up to date in all things. Steam railways, electric 
railways, inclined railways, automobiles, fine car¬ 
riages and horses to suit, bath houses, with fresh and 
sea water. Having a population, with its suburbs, 
of nearly a million people, Lisbon is among the large 
cities of the world. It is the capitol of Portugal and 
the See of an archbishop. The water fronting the 
city is called the Bay of Tangus. I believe it was 
Lord Byron who said Lisbon was the most beautiful 
city in Europe. A goodly portion of the city is on a 
plateau, but little above sea level, on which is the 
longest street in the city. The city gradually ex¬ 
tends up the steep hill side. 

It is noticeable that the buildings have great uni- 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


59 


formity in size, mostly four-story gray stone build¬ 
ings. 

Travel is one of the few pleasures that can be long 
sustained without suffering any lapse of interest. As 
one progresses, realization and anticipation go hand 
in hand; while the eyes are beholding present de¬ 
lights, the mind stretches forward to those which are 
still ahead. 

Pleasures accumulate, and the interest increases 
with every mile. A taste for travel intelligently de¬ 
veloped becomes a fine accomplishment. It is a mark 
of distinction. They most enjoy travel who travel 
most. The beginner has a world of pleasure before 
him. 

In 1755 Lisbon was nearly destroyed by an earth¬ 
quake causing the death of forty thousand people and 
the city was rebuilt by Santos de Carvalho. 

The Portuguese vessels are chiefly occupied in trad¬ 
ing with the African colonies of Portugal and with 
South America. The chief exports are cork, wine, 
olive oil, tropical fruit, and fish. 

Lisbon, like most of our Southern cities at home, 
has a public square or plaza; but its public square is 
adorned with two bronze fountains, and a lofty mar¬ 
ble column topped by a bronze statue of Peter IV. 
On the base of this monument, which was erected 
by two Frenchmen, are figures of the four cardinal 
virtues. The mosaic pavement of the square is laid 
in a curious undulatory pattern. 

We were shown the Theatre de Dona Maria Se- 
gimda, the home of the Inquisition from 1534 to 
1820. 



60 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


A beautiful promenade, nearly three hundred feet 
wide, adorns the city, lined by palms, on which we 
were shown a monument ninety-eight feet high, 
erected in 1882, in memory of De Restauradores de 
Portugal, to commemorate the rising of December 
1, 1640, by which the yoke of the Spanish “Intrinsos” 
was thrown off and an end put to the sixty years’ 
slavery. At the base of this obelisk are bronze fig¬ 
ures of Victory and the Genius of Liberty. In an 
other place we were shown marble figures of the four 
quarters of the globe. 

This city has the largest ship yards in Southern 
Europe. 

We were driven to the orphans’ home for boys, 
and saw eight hundred and fifty-seven boys all wear¬ 
ing blue cloth suits, brass buttons and cap to match, 
in a large court yard performing a morning drill, 
their ages ranged from five to fifteen years, one of 
the prettiest sights one could see. We were taken 
through the asylum, which like the boys, was spot¬ 
lessly clean. 

Thence to Bibliotheca Nacional de Lisboa, founded 
in 1796 and now containing four hundred thousand 
printed volumes, and fifteen thousand manuscripts 
and forty thousand coins and medals. We were 
shown a monument to Luiz de Camoes, the most 
celebrated poet of Portugal. The figure of the heroic 
singer stands upon an octagonal pedestal of marble; 
in his right hand is a drawn sword, in his left a copy 
of his masterpiece, the “Leuisads,” a great epic cele¬ 
brating the noble deeds of his countrymen. 

A monument commemorating the marriage of 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


61 


Louis I, with Maria Pia of Savoy, 1862. Nearby is 
the church of Sao Roque, a Renaissance structure of 
1566, erected by the Jesuits. This was the first beau¬ 
tiful church visited in our tour. 

A drive to the Polytechnic school and the Botanical 
Garden was of great interest to all of us. 

Thence to the secularized convent of Sao Bento, 
which was built in the seventeenth century. 

While driving and viewing these historical places, 
bright as though built yesterday, one concludes that 
old countries differ from new in that the former add 
to their picturesque aspects a wealth of memorable 
associations. New countries are making history; old 
ones have made it. The garden lands of the Orient, 
were the stages which witnessed the greatest dramas 
of human development, the birthplace of classic art 
and literature, the school of philosophers and sages, 
the cradle of religions. The works which still sur¬ 
vive are worthy of so great a past. Thus every 
charming prospect makes its two-fold appeal in the 
beauty of the present and the romance and mystery 
of bygone days. 

Where people travel in company the pleasure is 
multiplied. The experience of each individual adds 
something to the enjoyment of all; and while one 
might overlook some features of interest, there is 
nothing that can escape the combined observation of 
many. When tourists sail they do not leave their 
individuality at home. No two are quite alike in taste 
or temperament. One enthusiastically emphasizes this 
feature, that appeals to him; another is deeply im¬ 
pressed by something' else. All get the benefit of the 



62 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


combined intelligence. The range of interests which 
travel affords is as wide as human nature itself. The 
American tourist has the advantage of the old world 
traveller because he can make more striking compari¬ 
sons. His accustomed environment, modern to the 
last degree, renders old world scenes more strange 
and interesting. 

The Estrella Church, with two towers on the fa¬ 
cade and a lofty dome was erected in 1779-96, in the 
fulfilment of a vow of Oueen Maria I. The fitting 
up of the interior is ornate rather than artistic. The 
high altar-piece represents the flaming heart of Jesus 
spreading its bounties over the four quarters of the 
globe. To the left of the altar is the sarcophagus of 
Queen Maria, who died in 1816 at the age of eighty- 
two years. 

As an initiatory step to our long tour of the Orient 
we were well pleased with this city. 

The second day we went by railroad to Cintra, and 
the carriages from the stations closely climbed the 
mountains leading to the palace of the late King, a 
beautiful palace overlooking the sea and the vast 
expanse of country inland. After lunch we walked 
through the Botanical Gardens at the base of the 
mountains, exhibiting trees, plants, shrubs, and flow¬ 
ers—roses from nearly every clime. 

We were soon on the train going back through 
orange and lemon groves, and by the hour of seven 
o’clock p. m., were on the ship and ready for a hearty 
dinner. 

In an hour later the big ship was slowly steaming 
out into the open sea. 



CHAPTER VII 


CADIZ 

It was in the gray of the early morning we heard 
the whistles of the ship, and then the sweet strains of 
music of the band, that to us announced the approach 
to a port. As soon as I could I was up and out on 
deck, and found that we were anchored in the bay of 
Cadiz, a large horseshoe-shaped bay. The sun was 
just brightening the eastern horizon, yet the many 
pleasure sail boats were out on business or sightseeing 
bent. The fishermen were drawing in their nets, tug 
boats were going in nearly every direction while row 
boats were in many places. Coast liners were com¬ 
ing into the harbor and two large ocean liners were 
going out. The “winch” was letting our anchors down 
into the bay; and the lighthouse boat was coming out 
carrying the port inspector to examine the ship’s 
papers. The tourists were all up unusually early that 
morning for we were booked to see the city in car¬ 
riages before ten o’clock, at which time our special 
train was due to start for Seville. Lighters came on 
either side of the ship and took us aboard and safely 
landed us on shore. 

Cadiz is a city of seventy thousand people, the capi¬ 
tal of a province, the see of a bishop, and a strong 
fortress; is most picturesquely situated on a low rock 

63 


64 ) 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


of shell limestone, and is almost completely surrounded 
by the sea. Massive cement walls protect the city 
from the force of the waves of the sea. 

This city was rebuilt on a new plan after the siege 
of 1596, and extended and beautified in 1786; it is 
remarkable for its cleanliness. The houses are nearly 
all built of light colored stone and many are white, 
many having tower views in the second and third stor¬ 
ies; nearly all have balconies before every window. 
Many of the residences, as well as large mercantile 
houses, are made of pure white marble. The magical 
charm of the city is further enhanced by its beauti¬ 
ful parks, the illimitable expanse of its ocean- 
view, permitting the ozone of the sea to refresh its 
people. In the summer seasons, it is said, the city 
is very warm, owing largely to the flatness of the 
country. 

The Carthaginians occupied the city B. C. 501, and 
from it overran the southern peninsula. The city 
proper was built by the Tyrians about 1100 B. C. 
Hamilcar and Hannibal fitted out their fleets and 
equipped their armies by the wealth of this city, as 
did also the Scipios, when jealousy of the commercial 
prosperity of Carthage had turned that city into the 
hands of the Romans after the second Punic War. 
After this war many Greek families migrated to Cadiz, 
and it is claimed that it was here the Greeks made 
the phenomenal discovery of the causes of the tides. 
It was here Pompey and Caesar contended for the right 
of possession of the city. Its cuisine was as fam¬ 
ous for its excellence, as its dancing girls were for 
beauty, form and perfection in movement. The city 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


6$ 


maintained its commercial importance throughout an¬ 
tiquity. Its fish and preserved meats were sought af¬ 
ter in Rome as far back as the second century. When 
Alfonso captured the city in 1262 he had to repeople 
it. The city was frequently attacked by the Barbary 
corsairs in the sixteenth century, but repelled them 
on every occasion. 

We were first driven to the Academia de Bellas 
Arties, which contains a picture gallery and collec¬ 
tions of casts. 

Our attention was attracted to the picture of Mu¬ 
rillo, Ecce Homo, from the Caupchin convent of that 
city; Rubens’ '‘Holy Family” in the cathedral Vieja, 
originally erected in the thirteenth century, but 
nearly entirely destroyed by the siege of 1596; and 
rebuilt. Some of the paintings are quite remarkably 
fine. 

We were then drawn to a little Chapel where Mu¬ 
rillo was killed by falling from a ladder on which 
he was standing while painting a large picture over 
an altar. Here he painted his last picture. A poor 
woman scrubbing the floor of the church remarked to 
the great painter: 

“If I had money I would buy one of your pic¬ 
tures.” To which he replied: 

“Bring me a napkin and I will paint you a pic¬ 
ture.” 

She brought him one of strong linen and he had it 
bound tight over a frame and in less than an hour 
he painted the Madonna and the child. The picture is 
less than two feet square, yet, the hand of a genius 
can be seen all over the work. Murillo was the great- 



66 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


est of all freehand painters. He could make por¬ 
traits nearly as fast as a common painter can paint a 
sign. 

It was here in the Bay of Cadiz where the histori¬ 
cal battle of Trafalgar was fought; that exalted Ad¬ 
miral Collingwood to peerage, and was the last en¬ 
gagement that Lord Nelson, England’s greatest ad¬ 
miral, participated in. It was the decisive naval battle 
between England and the allied navies of France and 
Spain. The French admiral drew up his fleet in the 
form of a crescent, and in double line, every alternate 
ship being a cable’s length in windward of her second, 
both ahead and astern. The British fleet bore down 
upon this formidable and skilfully arranged arma¬ 
ment in two separate lines, the one led by Nelson in 
the Victory, and the other by Collingwood in the Royal 
Sovereign. The latter ship penetrated the center of 
the enemy’s crescent shaped fleet, firing from both 
sides. 

Collingwood’s bravery in taking the great risk ap¬ 
palled the enemy, and had a moral influence on both 
fleets. It was with the Spanish admiral’s ship that 
the Royal Sovereign closed; and with such rapidity 
and precision did she pour in her broadsides upon the 
Santa Anna, that the latter was on the eve of strik¬ 
ing color in the midst of thirty-three sail of the line. 
It was then that several other vessels, seeing the im¬ 
minent peril of the Spanish flag-ship, came to her im¬ 
mediate assistance and hemmed in the Royal Sover¬ 
eign, on all sides. This event brought the entire 
British squadron to the relief of the admiral’s ship. 
The mixing of these many ships of war in such close 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


6T 


proximity in the bay, gave to history the record of 
one of the greatest of naval engagements. 

When Napoleon heard of the defeat of the French 
and Spanish fleets, he simply replied: 

“I cannot be everywhere.” 



CHAPTER VIII 


SAVILLE 

We took the train for Saville at the hour of ten 
o’clock a. m., moved out on schedule time. The first 
sight was the salt lagoons and pyramids of dry salts. 
The lagoons were dug out, into which water from the 
sea is pumped. The water under the rays of a hot sun 
is evaporated into the air, as it also percolates through 
the sand back into the sea; in both instances the 
sea salt settles on the bottom of the lagoons, is 
scooped up and piled into great pyramids, perhaps 
twenty to thirty feet in height. Coming into higher 
lands we saw larger wheat fields than we expected. 
I saw seventeen mule teams and thirty-four yokes of 
oxen plowing in one field. 

The railroad track on either side was inclosed by 
a fence of grown cactus. We thought this the strang¬ 
est fence we ever saw. We passed through many 
miles of olive orchards, and one may reasonably won¬ 
der where can so many olives and so much olive oil 
find a market? 

The farm houses are not equal to the average resi¬ 
dence in the cities. 

On sped the train and we reached our destination 

68 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


69 


at three o’clock p. m., a distance of one hundred and 
thirty-hve miles. 

We were driven from the station through the city,, 
and then to the largest hotel. 

The second largest and the finest Cathedral in the 
world is in Seville. It contains many sarcophagi of 
great man of past ages. Here we were shown the 
sarcophagus of Columbus and others of equal his¬ 
torical note. 

When one chances to admire any of the more not¬ 
able edifices in the United States, he may not pause 
to inquire as to the source and origin of their de¬ 
signs. Architects know, however; they will tell you 
where that tower originated, what suggested this arch, 
what inspired that effect. The secret is, indeed, re¬ 
vealed when one beholds such a structure as the tran¬ 
scendent Alhambra; such cathedrals and mosques as 
one finds, for example, at Seville, Palermo and Con¬ 
stantinople; and such stately ruins as still survive at 
Athens, Baalbek and Syracuse, magnificent in their 
decay. In these old countries architecture seems to 
have reached the limits of artistic possibility, to have 
spoken its word. We may build higher, but we can¬ 
not build better. 

Here, too, is an up-to-date city having all the mod¬ 
ern appliances and electrical inventions for the con¬ 
venience of man. 

We were informed during dinner that a ball was 
to be given that night for our benefit. Over three 
hundred of us separated from a dollar each, thinking 
the price very reasonable. We were directed to a ball¬ 
room on a second floor. The room was about one 



70 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


hundred and fifty feet in length and perhaps forty to 
fifty feet in breadth. Four rows of chairs on so 
many inclining steps on each side were for the audi¬ 
ence, as were also rich velvet boxes in balconies above. 
The dancers had the entire length of the floor to per¬ 
form their grace of movements. 

We didn’t have long* to wait until the fair daughters 
of the Orient whose radiant black eyes could van¬ 
quish the world at their command; and whose beauty 
set them in the strongest light; like the sun radiating 
between; the eye is charmed and the soul is seen. 

The dancers were the professional dancers, who, 
during the month of March each year, dance in the 
Palace court for the royal family while in Seville. 

The dance, purely Spanish, was rendered by the 
grace of ease. The singing was as refreshing as eat¬ 
ing is when one is hungry. The programme an¬ 
nounced a grand Andalusian ball, and, is as follows: 

PROGRAMA 


PRIM ERA PARTE 

1. Sevillanas. 

2. El Ole. 

3. Manchegas. 

A. La Madrilena. 

5. Boleras de Madrid. 

6. La Flamenca. 

7. Las Peteneras. 

S. La Maja Jerezana. 

9. La Farruca. 

10. Soleares de Areas. 

11. Cante andaluz y Seguidil- 

las en cuadro. 

12. Cante y Baile Flamenco. 


SEGUNDA PARTE 

1. La Malaguena y el Torero. 

2. Jaleo de Jerez. 

3. Boleras de Cachucha. 

4. El Vito. 

5. La Curra! 

6. Boleras de medio paso. 

7. Cante y Baile Gitano. 

8. Los Caracoles. 

9. j Viva Espana! (Peteneras.) 

10. La Macarena. 

11. Zapateado andaluz. 

12. Despedida de la Troupe. 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


71 


But as in all performances there is one star, this one 
would be noticeable for many reasons. Her height 
was about five feet six, her weight perhaps one hun¬ 
dred and thirty pounds; her beauty perfect, of the 
true Oriental type, with grace of fawn and the agility 
of a cat she performed her most difficult parts; her 
large almond shaped eyes, with the brilliance and 
wonderment of a tamed gazelle, fascinated her audi¬ 
ence. Her final part was the crest of skill when she 
appeared as a Picardo, dressed in the costume of a 
bull-fighter, her broad sombrero red hat, covering a 
fluffy head of soft midnight hair, and shading a pair 
of eyes that would enchant a man of ninety. With her 
elastic step, that could readily evade the attack of a 
maddened bull, she danced up the full length of the 
hall, and on her return about the center of the hall, 
she cast her hat on the floor, dancing around it as 
though it were the bull; in a sudden turn she quickly 
threw the two banderillas which she carried dur¬ 
ing the dance, burying the steel deep into the floor. 
I was sitting on the front row of seats and perhaps 
within six feet of the hat, and could easily see that 
the banderillas nearly touched the outer edge of the 
rim of the hat on opposite sides. One may well won¬ 
der at the time of training before attaining such per¬ 
fection of movement. 

The reader rightfully wants to know the history of 
this city. Which I will do before I tell you of the 
city, which has a population of 150,000. The capital 
of Andalusia and of the province of Seville, the seat 
of a captain-general, an archbishop, and a university, 
lies in a wide plain on the banks of the tawny Guadal- 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


quiver, one of the two chief rivers of Spain. It was 
a city of quite great importance two hundred years 
B. C., chiefly owing to its shipping industry. 

Caesar captured the city 45 B. C., and fostered it in 
opposition to Pompey’s town of Cordova. Later when 
the Athanasian faith obtained control in Spain, Her- 
meneglide and his supporters governed it. In 712 
A. D. the Moors captured the city, and expelled the 
Christians and assigned it to the Arabs of Yemen. In 
1021 Seville declared itself an independent republic. 
Its population is said to have risen to 400,000 people. 
Seville’s Christian period begins with its capture by 
Ferdinand III, of Castile, on St. Clement’s Day, No¬ 
vember 23, 1248, after a siege of six months. Ferdi¬ 
nand made the city his residence, and expelled three 
hundred thousand Moors. The discovery of America 
advanced Seville to an undreampt of importance. On 
Palm Sunday, March 31, 1493, Columbus was for¬ 
mally received there on his return from his first voy¬ 
age. The city was invested with the monopoly of the 
Trans-Atlantic trade, and soon became the chief port 
of Spain. 

Seville can proudly boast of being the birthplace of 
two chief Spanish painters: Velazquez, 1590, and 
Murillo in 1617. 

Music, however, has done much to make the city 
famous. It is the scene of Mozart’s “Don Juan” and 
“Figaro,” and of Bezit’s “Carman.” 

The city to-day, has many promenades, theatres of 
unusually large seating capacity and wealth of interior 
finish. 

One of the most magnificent buildings is the Al- 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


73 


cazar, the palace of the Moorish kings, having been the 
residence of Spanish sovereigns since the capture of 
Seville. It was built on the ruins of the Roman Prae- 
torium, and its original form was that of a citadel, 
built by Abu Ya Kub Yusuf in the year u8i. The 
present Alcazar, in magnitude and beauty, compares 
favorably with the Alhambra of Granada. 

The Seville Cathedral is next in size to St. Peter’s 
in Rome, but finer in interior finish. It has the finest, 
as well as the most expensive, stained-glass windows 
in the world. It is rich in Gothic architectural designs, 
unexcelled in its expression of solemn mystery, and 
at once a veritable museum of works of art and a 
treasury of historical associations. The church is 
dedicated to Santa Marie de la Sede. This building 
was begun in 1402 and finished in 1506. It would 
take a volume to contain a proper description of this 
edifice. The general effect is truly majestic, its wind¬ 
ing stairs that ascend to the galleries, the aisles, the 
naves, the cascades, the pinnacles, the large stained- 
glass windows, the chapels, all these combine in an 
almost miraculous manner; it would take a wealth of 
detail to describe them. The airy grace and the deli¬ 
cate elegance of artistic finish characterize the whole 
building. 

The interior has a nave, double aisles, two rows of 
side chapels, a transept flush with the main walls, a 
coro in the middle of the nave, and a Capilla Mayor. 
The total length, exclusive of the Capillo Real, is 
three hundred and eighty feet, the width two hundred 
and fifty feet, the nave is fifty-three feet wide and one 
hundred and thirty-two feet high; the aisles are thirty- 



74 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


six feet wide and eighty-five feet high. The total 
area is 124,000 square feet. The majestic simplicity 
and the decorative restraint of the whole, the care¬ 
fully observed rhythmical relations of one part to an¬ 
other are delightful in proportion to the size of the 
dimensions, and the correctness of the lines. 

The Trascora, worked in marble in the Doric style, 
contains a painting of the Virgin de los Remedios, a 
fine half-length of the Mater Dolorosa, by Montanes, 
and four marble reliefs from Genoa. 

The Capilla Mayor, contains a large Retablo, which 
is among the masterpieces of Gothic wood carving in 
Spain. It was begun in 1482, was continued till 1526, 
by Marco, and was completed in 1564, by Aleman. 
The central niche is occupied by a silver figure of the 
Virgin de la Sede, and in the other forty-five com¬ 
partments are groups of scenes from the Bible of the 
life of the Virgin. At the top are the crucifix and life- 
size statues of the Virgin and St. John. 

The side chapels and their sacristies are profuse 
with paintings and sculptures of the masters. Here 
we found a painting of Murillo, the Guardian Angel, 
perhaps not as artistically rendered as some of his 
other works, but one that attracts immediate atten¬ 
tion. Nearby and over an altar are the Adoration of 
the Magi and the four Evangelists, by de Vargas, in 
the year of 1502. The apparent freshness of these 
paintings is wonderful, it speaks in praise of the paint 
used in those days. 

In the south transept is the monument of Colum¬ 
bus, by Melida. It consists of a marble base, on which 
are four allegorical figures in bronze, representing in 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


75 


'detail the kingdoms of Castile, Aragon, Leon and 
Navarre, supporting the sarcophagus that contains the 
remains of the great discoverer. The inscription re¬ 
fers to America as being ungrateful to its mother, 
Spain. 

We were then shown a painting of colossal pro¬ 
portions, said to be thirty-three feet in height; of San 
Cristobal, by the renowned Italian painter Alesio, in 
1584. 

In the Sacristia Mayor, after admiring the many 
beautiful paintings, we were shown a silver custodia 
ten feet in height, made by Arphe in 1580-87; a sil¬ 
ver candelabra; a massive silver altar; a bronze can¬ 
delabrum, twenty-six feet in height. 

We were then led to the Sala Capitular, forty-six 
feet long and twenty-nine feet high. The Corinthian 
pilasters support a Doric entablature; the decoration 
is in the platuesque style. The beautiful ceiling and 
the sixteen marble medallions present to the eye a 
scene of rare beauty, of the most pronounced artistic 
finish. 

Capilla Real, a Renaissance structure ninety-two 
feet long, forty-nine feet wide and one hundred and 
twenty-eight feet high. It took thirty-four years to 
build it. The lofty dome is borne by eight candela¬ 
brum-like pilasters; the plastic ornamentation is rich in 
art. The apsa is separated from the rest of the chapel 
by a screen. On the high altar stands the Virgin de 
las Reyes, of the thirteenth century. On a lower 
altar, in front, is a silver shrine, containing the body 
of Ferdinand of Spain, who departed this life in 
1252. 



76 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


It would be wearisome to here describe in detail the 
many works by the great masters that appeared in 
this home of art of the past centuries. Such detailed 
information is not intended for a book of this char¬ 
acter. I leave the mind of the reader to wonder un¬ 
til he has an opportunity to visit Seville. 

The third day our party separated. About half 
went on the morning train to Granada, to see the Al¬ 
hambra and its ruins, while others were content to see 
the Alcazar, more perfect in structure and of the same 
character of architecture. We drove about the city 
viewing the hospitals, the convents, universities, col¬ 
leges, and beautiful gardens, and lastly the Gardens 
of the Alcazar, where we were shown two very large 
pecan trees, brought by Columbus from South Amer¬ 
ica in their infancy. They are now more than a hun¬ 
dred feet in height and bid fair to survive many 
centuries to come. 

The court in the Alcazar is one of earth’s spots to 
admire. It has a Botanical garden, marble walks, 
many flowing fountains, and a large platform on 
which the most artistic of the professional dancers 
perform for the amusement of the Royal family dur¬ 
ing their stay here. They view the dancing from a 
box in the balcony. After noon lunch we were soon 
on our special, and the sweet strains of “Home Sweet 
Home,” rendered by our ship band and sang by more 
than two hundred voices, in unharmonious tones, 
wafted back to one of the world’s nicest cities in the 
fair sunny land of Southern Spain. The odor of the 
orange groves, and the oxygen of the air were inhaled 
as the train sped along in southward bound course. 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


77 


flanked on either side by its castus fences. The band 
alternated its pieces as did our fellow tourists their 
vocal music. Truly we were like a big picnic party, 
though youth did not predominate in numbers, age did 
no less their duty in song, story, and all the hilarity 
that amuses one of in quest of pleasure. 

We blew into Cadiz on schedule time and were so 
hungry that but few dressed for dinner. Though we 
had good food in Seville, it is not belittling the hos- 
tlery of that famous old city to say that we had better 
food on our touring ship. We were disposing of the 
tenth course, when we heard the “winch” hauling up 
the anchors, then three sharp whistles that could be 
heard many miles away; then a vibratory motion of 
the big boat, that plainly told us that the double screw 
propellers were getting busy after their three days’ 
rest. The band was aft, playing a farewell piece. 
Perhaps it was an hour before we appeared on the 
promenade deck. Naturally we looked toward land, 
but through the haze of early evening we could see 
nothing but water; walking forward we could see 
nothing but the dark blue sea. We were bound for 
Gibraltar, where we were due next morning at the 
hour of eight o’clock. 

Tired of our outing, a few gathered in bunches to 
talk of the wonderful works of art we had seen, while 
others were busily engaged in games of bridge, and 
quite a few playing Five Hundred. Thus was the 
early evening spent. But before the retiring hour of 
eleven o’clock, at which time the electric lights are 
turned out, all were in peaceful slumber. 



CHAPTER IX 


\ 


ROND A 

We were a little slow getting out of our restful 
beds next morning. I heard the whistle nearing port 
at Gibraltar, then I felt the slowing up of the boat, 
and at last the squeaking noise of the “winch” letting 
down the anchors. I rolled over for another nap, but 
I had hardly closed my winkers until the bugle call 
for breakfast sounded, which meant one and a half 
hours until train time for Ronda, from Algeciras. I 
jumped from my bed, simply dipping my big sponge 
in the basin of water, and submerged my face. No 
time for blubbering in the water. A hasty rub of the 
coarse towel, and an attempt to use the tooth brush, 
into my trousers, buttoning with one hand while brush¬ 
ing my head with the other; I was soon ready, taking 
my hat with me to avoid returning from the dining 
saloon to my state-room for it. I waived citric food 
to get to the business end of my breakfast. I was 
just pouring syrup over my buckwheat cakes, when 
the lighter that was to take us across the bay to Al¬ 
geciras sounded its whistle for “all aboard.” I had 
been long enough in tour to learn that there would be 
no second whistle before starting, and those not on 
the boat at a given time would have to remain. There 
was my nice steaming hot pancake—I didn’t have time 

78 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


79 


to hide it away, couldn’t put it in my pocket, couldn’t 
swallow it without wabbling it around between my 
grinders, and, in my imagination, stood the vision of 
Ronda, said to be a spot from whence can be seen 
some of the finest scenery on the globe. But there is 
the pancake. I have seen time in my boyhood days 
when I would have staid with the buckwheat pancakes. 

Hurrying down the gang stairs, I, as usual, was the 
first one on the lighter. I had a good notion to go 
and bumpmy head against the big pilot for not letting 
me, remain over the aroma of the buckwheat long 
enough to have carried the cause of the aroma 
with me. 

Looking up the iron wall of the big ship, I saw every 
step was full of people scudding down into the little 
boat, and soon we had over two hundred tourists 
aboard. The hawser was loosened, the sailors pushed 
their little craft adrift from the big boat, and the nose 
of the lighter was turning toward shore, when a lady 
of goodly proportions came out on the deck of the big 
ship and demanded to be taken aboard. The captain 
cried back that he wouldn’t do that much for the king. 
She then cried out: “What shall I do?” 

I was about to tell her to go down and eat my pan¬ 
cakes. Just then an electric thought shot through my 
head, recalling how she looked at a larger man than 
I who foolishly asked her weight, at which time she 
dropped her head as she looked at him through her 
tipper eyelashes, which gave full length to her “dew¬ 
lap,” as it swung from under her chin. She made no 
vocal reply, for the facial expression nearly sent him 
to his knees. 



80 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


The little boat was now well out into the bay, headed 
for Algeciras, eight miles away on the Spanish coast. 

Algeciras is a city of about twenty-five thousand 
people, noted only for the place where the late interna¬ 
tional commission settled the dispute between Moroc¬ 
co, France, Spain and England, giving to France pro¬ 
tectorship over Morocco. We saw from the bay as much 
of Algeciras as we cared to see, and as soon as the 
boat landed we immediately boarded a special train for 
Ronda. We were soon slowly winding around the 
serpentine road leading from the sea up the moun¬ 
tain side, passing through an old Moorish aqueduct; 
soon an old Moorish fortress came into view. The 
road ascended to it by flights of steps. Then we 
passed into a narrow wooded valley, in the cork dis¬ 
trict, where we met several trains loaded with cork, 
piled up like cord wood. The cork grows on trees 
resembling large apple trees both in color and size. 
The cork bark is easily removed. The woodman cuts 
through the bark at the ground and then beneath the 
limbs of the tree, splitting the bark, it readily peels 
off. The larger limbs of the tree are also released of 
their bark, cork is the center bark of the tree. 

The train stopped at the town of Gaucin, only thirty- 
six miles from Algeciras, yet, we ascended two thou¬ 
sand and twenty-six feet high. This town of but four 
thousand people has the ruins of the Moorish castle, 
and commands a fine, though distant, view of Gibral¬ 
tar, the sea and its African coast. In this distance we 
must have passed through nearly twenty mountain 
tunnels. Twelve miles farther we entered Jimera, a 
small town in the mountain valley which is covered 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


81 


with groves of olives and oranges. Then we plunged 
into a rich mountain valley, green as it was rich in 
olive and almond trees. A beautiful clear mountain 
stream named Guadiaro flows down this valley and 
forces its circuitous way through the steep heights of 
the Sierra de Ronda while the railroad goes over it on 
bridges and around it in tunnels. We passed through 
the Guadiaro Gorge; a beautiful scene presented itself 
to our view. It was the hour of noon when we reached 
Ronda, a one hundred and ten mile trip, nearly three 
thousand feet above the sea level. A favorite summer 
place for the rich of Gibraltar, it is during the sea¬ 
son of bull-fights that Ronda is at her best. It is here 
that Spain annually holds one of its national fairs. 
It is a city of only about twenty thousand souls; its 
chief revenue is from flour milling, fruit-growing, 
vineyards; is very picturesquely situated in the midst 
of a most magnificent ampitheatre of mountains. It 
is the melting snow from their crystal crests that brims 
the river banks already named above. 

On reaching the town, we ate dinner in a new ho¬ 
tel, just finished and owned by an English company. 
It is modern in every particular. Its furniture and 
fittings are up to date, as is also its table, properly 
supplied with everything in use at the best hotels in 
large cities. 

The city proper is situated on a monster rock 
nearly five hundred feet above the fertile valley be¬ 
low. The valley is green in wheat and other grains. 
The orange trees are yellow with ripe fruit, and 
pinky white blooms. The groves of olive trees, the 
ripening vegetables are all in the majesty of their 



82 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


beauty. I stood on the verge of the precipice look¬ 
ing five hundred feet below, where is seemingly sum¬ 
mer, and then cast my eyes to the left and looking 
upon the top of Mount Sierra de Tolax, which has, 
perhaps, a mile or more of white snow extending 
from its crest, and through my strong field glasses 
I could see the snow drifting into beautiful oval piles, 
then turning the glasses down the gorge into the val¬ 
ley sweetened by orange blossoms, and the ripe fruit, 
I could hardly realize that all these seasons could be 
seen now, for the date was February ioth. One 
glance at the mountain top, I see perpetual winter; in 
a glance at the valley below I see perpetual summer. 
It is for this purpose I did not go to Granada to see 
the Alhambra, but I came here to see one of nature's 
wonders. 

As I am aware of the importance of giving a his¬ 
torical sketch of each place I visit, I repeat the gath¬ 
erings that history ascribe to Ronda. 

The city was built on the ruins of the ancient city 
Iberian, and afterwards Roma tower of Acinipo; the 
first city was built before the Christian era, while 
Ronda was built in 1550. 

A church in the city, originally a Moorish mosque, 
and still retaining some of its Moorish cupolas, is 
in use. The Renaissance plateresque Capilla Mayor 
are later additions. A stalactite cavern is under a 
part of Ronda, in which visitors can go on horse¬ 
back. 

On our return to the ship in the evening, many of 
us purchased baskets of fine large oranges for the 
sum of twenty cents per basket. The only incident 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


83 


of the day’s trip was the killing- of five goats by our 
locomotive as it emerged from a tunnel. 

At six o’clock we were back to Algeciras, thence 
to the big boat, and about the first thing I ordered 
was buckwheat pancakes. 



CHAPTER X 


TANGIER 

We were up early next morning for we had to be 
transferred to a small steamer to take us out of the 
Bay of Gibraltar across the strait connecting the At¬ 
lantic Ocean with the Mediterranean Sea to the his¬ 
torical city of Tangier, in Morocco. The band was 
playing little, after the gray of the morning. Quickly 
jumping out of bed and peeling off the long garment 
while mentally waiving the morning salt water bath, 
and accepting the poor substitute of a sponge rubbing 
of fresh water, soon found me in the dining saloon 
supping hot coffee, etc. 

The Moroccan shore can be easily seen from the 
Bay of Gibraltar. It is but eighteen miles across the 
strait that connects the Atlantic Ocean with the Medi¬ 
terranean Sea. Nearly crossing this water, which 
brought us in sight of hills and mountains along the 
coast, makes one wonder what kind of wild animals 
inhabit these lonely mountains, appearing as barren 
of habitation as they are of trees or grass. 

I have seen in past days, when with gun and dog 
I would like to penetrate these valleys and rugged 
mountains, though I could not now learn the names 
of the wild animals and birds that inhabit its solitude. 
I could see in uninhabited places, possibilities for fu- 

84 



TANGIER WOMAN OF THE HAREM. 


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THE GLOBE TROTTER 


85 


ture improvements, where health and rest resorts 
could be made, capable of successfully competing with 
more renowned places of attraction, that would be 
agreeable to the tastes of the most pronounced seek¬ 
ers after pleasure and fervent Alpine climbers, an 
ideal place for poet or landscape scenic painter. 

We were soon on the lighter, a poor exchange, 
thought I, for the big ship, but it was a comfortable 
boat for a forty-five miles ride, across peaceful waters. 
It being only eighteen miles from our anchor to the 
Moroccan shore, and not appearing to be so far by 
eyesight. 

At ten o’clock we were ashore—a carriage drive 
through such parts of the city as the width of the 
streets and levelness of the ground would permit. 
Coming in contact with such impassable places, we 
walked through the narrow ways and descended 
streets that should have hand rails for protection for 
all passing pedestrians. The filth of the inhabitants 
of the lower class were such that we were cautioned 
by our guides not to permit their garments to touch 
ours. 

In the afternoon we took donkeys to ride through 
the city. In going down the steep mountain side a 
lady fell from the donkey which she was riding; the 
man having charge of the donkey and lady rider im¬ 
mediately preceding me, released his charge and 
quickly came to the fallen rider. He had scarcely 
released his charge, until she cried for aid. I saw 
she was sliding off the flat saddle and like the woman 
who had just fallen, was going over the donkey’s 
head. But this lady, unlike the fallen one, was one 



86 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


it' 


it' 


whose weight would nearly touch the two hundred 
pound mark. She was in the declining thirties and 
fine looking. A big widower caught her in his arms 
just as she passed the donkey’s ears. She was scream¬ 
ing; he placed her on her feet and she said, “I am 
under a thousand obligations to you, sir.” 

He replied: “No, it's your husband who is in¬ 
debted to me for saving you." To which she re¬ 
joined : 

No, it is I, for I am a widow.” 

‘Why didn't you say you were a widow while in 
my arms?” 

She laughed heartily, and they then led their don¬ 
keys to the foot of the mountain. They became 
quite well acquainted that day, but unfortunately she 
came to the place of her destination two days later— 
worse than that, he had forgotten her address, but 
not the accident. 

This incident recalls to my mind an article I saw 
later in a French newspaper, descriptive of the steep 
hills or mountains in the city of Tangiers. The 
writer said the streets should all be made to go up, 
and not to come down. What do you think of a 
city that has all the streets go up, and not to come 
down ? 

As we found no streets running along the hill sides, 
both up and down the hills and mountains, I inquired 
of my dragoman, and he replied: that the city had 
no sewers, and the streets were made as they were 
for the purpose of the rains to wash away the ac¬ 
cumulating dirt. 

This was the first city we came to, that had a 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


87 


harem. The Khedive had twenty-seven wives, and 
permitted the ladies of our boat to go into the harem 
and talk to the inmates, and a widow told me that she 
told the Khedive that it would have been perfectly 
safe to have let the gentlemen of the boat also see 
his wives. I did not learn her meaning, whether she 
meant it as a reflection on the women’s appearance, 
or the men’s weakness. I will probably never know. 

In the tour of the “Old Town,” on donkeys, the 
people of the ship were so completely blended and as¬ 
sisted by each other, that no one returned to the ship 
unacquainted with any of the ship people. Age and 
youth, large and small mingled in one great day of 
pleasure, and every one riding a donkey was sitting 
cross-legged, with feet projecting on either side the 
donkey’s neck, and being supported by a native who 
held the rider on the little animal. 

Tangiers, as a city, is largely by itself. I have 
never seen a place or a people like I have seen here. 

Caravans of camels come in there from Southern 
Morocco and the northern part of Africa, burdened 
with blankets, table and floor rugs, jewelry, and pot¬ 
tery, and many other articles. They seemingly know 
when ships are to be in port. They are true Arabs, 
filthy in every way, and of the most vicious habits. 
In the deserts they are in tribes, and they are the peo¬ 
ple who are about to revolt. They are seemingly un¬ 
educated, are dishonest, and will do anything for a 
small amount of silver or gold. They have no use 
for paper money. They carry live snakes in their 
loose inside pockets, and will as readily pull a big 
snake out and put his head in their mouths as they 



88 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


would take something to eat, but they always expect a 
coin for doing the act. 

A Moroccan Arab, owning two camels and three 
or four pack donkeys, is regarded as well off. When 
these caravans come to town, the camel driver sleeps 
by the side of his camel, wrapped in a thick blan¬ 
ket. 

Three or four of these fellows having drums made 
of the skin of wild animals tightly drawn over hoops, 
and wooden reeds made from hollow sticks, make a 
noise which they call music, while an Arab hums a 
few words claiming to charm a snake beneath a blan¬ 
ket. If the snake fails to come out he is pulled out, 
and then if the snake starts to run away, he is caught 
and thrown under the blanket. Then the “Charmer'’ 
passes around the hat, soliciting coin with as much 
assurance, as though he had earned the money. 
Money is thrown to him to keep his filthy body at a 
safe distance. 



CHAPTER XI 


GIBRALTAR 

Gibraltar is one of the best known historical 
places in the world, and, as a strategic point, the least 
understood. Including six thousand five hundred sol¬ 
diers in the garrison, the city has but thirty thousand 
souls. It is situated on a promontory extending out 
from the main land of Spain, connected only by a 
narrow strip now known as the “neutral land.” In 
antiquity it is described as an African promontory. 
This is not true, and the man who wrote it certainly 
was never on the ground. I am writing this article 
at the foot of the “Big Rock.” No one can intel¬ 
ligently write of a place without seeing it. 

The strait, eighteen miles wide, divides Gibraltar 
from the African shore. To enter the Bay of Gibral¬ 
tar it is necessary to come through the strait. This 
channel is of sufficient depth to permit the largest 
ship an easy ingress and egress. The strait connects 
the Atlantic ocean with the Mediterranean sea. The 
Rock is said to be a mine of big guns. No one is 
allowed to go up on the rock but soldiers. Such 
unnecessary caution is used as a “buggaboo,” to the 
world. That the “Big Rock” may be impenetrable, 
perhaps is a fact. But that as a great strategical 
point guarding the strait is not true, for the simple 

89 


90 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


reason that Gibraltar is too far from the channel of 
the strait to hit a passing ship. 

I sought and found in Gibraltar a very intelligent 
man of mature years who was born, reared and had 
always lived here. I made known to him the pur¬ 
pose of my inquiry. I then asked him: 

“Why does the English government claim that this 
place controls the strait as a strategical point?” To 
which he replied: 

“Because it is true.” 

“Do you mean by that to say, that you have can¬ 
nons here that will lodge a shell on a ship in the 
channel of the strait seventeen to eighteen miles 
away ?” 

“Yes,” was his prompt reply; to which I responded: 

“Then you have guns that are unknown to the out¬ 
side world, and never before heard of.” 

He laughed, with a cast of features that plainly told 
as loudly as words, that he knew I did not believe 
what he said. He then looked at me rather appeal¬ 
ingly as he ventured to say: 

“You do not believe me?” 

“I dispute nothing a gentleman says; but if, in fact, 
you have such guns America has never heard of 
them,” I explained. 

“But you have as good guns in America,” he 
calmly suggested. 

“We make no claims to having such wonderful 
guns. We have, as I suppose, as fine guns as are 
made, and guns that are said to throw a projectile 
fifteen miles, but no gun that can hit a ship, except 
accidentally, that distance,” I replied. 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


91 


“Sir,” said he, “are you not aware that south 
of the ‘Big Rock’ we keep a gang of ‘Greyhounds,’ 
that are always under steam, and at the touch of an 
electric button, in a few minutes can be out in the 
channel and send their torpedoes into and totally de¬ 
stroy any passing ship or fleet?” 

“True,” I admitted, “but the French can have a 
like ‘gang’ of Torpedo boats on the Moroccan side. 
And Spain can also have another flotilla of torpedo 
boats up at the entrance of the strait.” 

“But—but,” said the Englishman, “what is the dif¬ 
ference?” 

“Just this,” I continued, “if France and Spain 
should want to blockade England’s entrance into the 
port they can do it.” 

“Well,” he slowly replied. 

“And Spain can do it by herself, for the reason 
the strait is not more than four or five miles wide 
at a certain place up the strait about thirty miles 
from here, and through which our boat went yester¬ 
day on our way to Tangier." 

“You mean where the battle of Trafalgar was 
fought?" he asked. 

“A little on this side of there, if I understand the 
proper place where the battle was fought,” said I. 

Here the Englishman began to tell of Lord Nel¬ 
son’s great victory over the French forces in the bat¬ 
tle of Trafalgar. There was no Frenchman present 
to speak for France so I thought I would reduce the 
Englishman’s surplus of egotism a little, so I sug¬ 
gested : 

“Well, if Napoleon had been there guiding the 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


92 

battle, you would now not mention the battle of 
Trafalgar.” 

In the numerous published pictures of the Rock of 
Gibraltar there appears a large body of water, which 
most every one believes is the strait connecting the 
ocean and the sea, but this is not true. The body of 
water known as the Bay of Gibraltar is perhaps fifteen 
miles long and ten miles wide, the outlet to the 
strait. The shape is that of a close-heel horseshoe. 

As far as Gibraltar’s being a great strategical point 
in case of war, is concerned, it is used by England in 
the same manner the foolish mother trys to make 
the innocent child believe that if it doesn’t go to 
sleep the “buggaboo” man will catch him. 

While I give these facts from a careful optical ex¬ 
amination of the place, the lay of the land and dis¬ 
tances by water, I do not mean to say that it is not a 
very important naval base and coaling station for 
England pending war with nations other than Spain 
and France. 

Rigid military formality is practiced daily here. 
At eleven o’clock p. m., a gun is fired as a signal that 
all gates to the city are closed until the rising of the 
sun. A waste of powder, for good people are usually 
in bed by then, and the soldiers guard the gates all 
the time. The constant sweep of the search-lights 
would nearly detect the approach of a secretive cat. 

The Rock of Gibraltar, nearly one mile wide and 
nearly three miles long, is thirteen hundred and fifty- 
six feet in height above sea level. The signal sta¬ 
tion is not quite so high. The north end is nearly 
vertical, while the south and west descend in steps— 




TANGIER SCHOOL. 


—Page 92 















































. 















































THE GLOBE TROTTER 


93 


like terraces. The higher slopes are overgrown with 
cactus. The Rock is united with Spain by a flat 
sandy isthmus only one and three-fourth miles in 
width. The central portion of this, about five hun¬ 
dred and fifty yards in length, is maintained as a 
neutral zone dividing the British possession and 
Spain. To the north of this zone lies the Spanish 
frontier town of La Leinea de la Concepcion. 

I believe it was Thackeray who described Gibraltar 
as resembling the image of an enormous lion, crouched 
between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. 

The houses of the town are of the same neutral 
gray tint as the rock itself. The streets are dark and 
narrow. Apart from the military, the inhabitants are 
mainly Spaniards and a large variety of people of 
different nationalities along the Mediterranean. The 
city still tries to present an English appearance, more 
noticeable about the fort than by the inhabitants. A 
few kilted highlanders recall the fact that rolled oats 
are yet in use, and the numerous Moors evidence the 
fact that Morocco is just across the strait, and if 
he hasn’t just what you need he can have it in a day 
or two from Tangier. 

The harbor is of great importance as a coaling 
station and is entered annually by about five thou¬ 
sand ships with about five million tonnage. 

The climate is mild in winter, but in summer it is 
said the bare rock becomes like a ball of fire. 

The city depends on cistern water for its use. 

In ancient history the Bay of Gibraltar was named 
Calpe, of Iberian origin. It seems there was on the 
same bay a town named Cartia, which was an im- 



94 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


portant sea port under the Carthaginians, received 
the first Roman colony on the Iberian Peninsula in 
B. C. 171, and seems to have vanished at the time 
of the Vandal invasion. It was not until A. D. 711 
that the bay again appears in history. In that year 
the Arab Tarik, at the head of a plundering expedi¬ 
tion sent to Spain by Musa, the African viceroy of 
the Caliph of Damascus, landed near the present 
Algeras and afterward established a fortress on 
the commanding Rock of Gibraltar. It is from this 
Moorish warrior that Gibraltar derives its modern 
name, a contracted form of Gabel-al-Tarik, or “hill 
of Zijad.” 

Gibraltar went through too many governmental 
changes to mention here. Suffice it to say that the 
British took it from Spain in 1704. It was besieged 
many times since, but always ineffectively. 

The Signal Station on the top of the Rock has a 
sweeping view of the entire Bay of Gibraltar, the 
strait to the Bay of Tangier; and to the coast of the 
Mediterranean. 

The big Rock is honey-combed with artificial pass- 
ways. In all we spent a pleasant day in Gibraltar. I 
regretted that I could not be with the people of the 
ship and participate in many of their pleasures, that 
I must forego while searching after the many items 
needed in completing the above narrative. 

At the hour of eight o’clock p. m. the tourists com¬ 
posing the Granada party returned to the ship, and an 
hour later we were steaming slowly round south of 
the Rock of Gibraltar and were soon in the Medi¬ 
terranean sea. The curtain of night was soon drawn 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


95 


and all lights from shore were obscure. The tour¬ 
ists who visited Granada and the Alhambra, were ex¬ 
plaining to those who visited Gibraltar, Ronda and 
Algerciras, the wonders of Alhambra; and vice versa 
were the latter explaining of the mountainous grand¬ 
eur surrounding Ronda, her snow-capped mountains 
overshadowing the deep valleys below, green with 
the growth of vegetables, cereals, groves of orange 
laden with golden fruit, green fruit and blossoms, 
groves of olive, pineapple, rubber and cork trees. 

The promenade decks, the Social Hall, rest room, 
and smoking room were full of the merry voyagers 
relating their experiences, giving vent to expressions 
of mirth, of experience and happenings of five days 
of inland touring. They were indeed much like a very 
large gathering of school children returning from a 
picnic. Not until the slow turning out of the many 
series of electric lights announcing the noon of night, 
did they retire to their respective state-rooms. 



CHAPTER XII 


ALGIERS 

The blowing of the whistles of passing ships 
opened my peepers, just as the steward tapped gently 
on my door, as I had requested him to do if the morn¬ 
ing gave birth to a cloudless sky, for I wanted to see 
the sun rise out of the Mediterranean Sea. Foolish, 
I will admit, to think there could be any difference 
in the appearance from the rising of the sun out of 
the Atlantic Ocean; many people, however, claim 
there is a difference. But on crossing the Atlantic 
this last time, we saw but little more than clouds and 
big waves in the Atlantic, as I have already probably 
tried to show*. 

I was out on deck in due time; in fact, just as the 
sky began to redden the heavens with its heat and 
brightness. The air was cool, refreshing, tonic-like, 
just the kind that suggested the buttoning of one’s 
coat and incurs a feeling to keep moving about to 
keep warm. A false idea prevails that the winter 
weather on the Mediterranean Sea is equal to sum¬ 
mer at home in America. 

There were quite a few tourists up to see the clear 
rising of the sun. One who has never seen the sun 
rise or set at sea can have but a faint idea of its 
splendor. I did not know which is the more beauti- 

96 



MOROCCAN BEAUTY. 

—Page 96 










THE GLOBE TROTTER 


97 


ful, sunrise or sunset on the ocean. I was a good 
deal like the young man who always thought the last 
girl he saw the prettiest he had ever seen; so at this 
writing, just having seen the sun rising this morning 
in all his majesty, I am compelled to say, the rising 
of the sun is the prettier of the two. We stood on 
the hurricane deck, our faces eastward to see the great 
orb of day appear, just like a bunch of people who 
never saw such a sight before. The sky in the eastern 
horizon began to redden until one could almost imag¬ 
ine there were another z£tna below the sky line, 
and that all the coal fields of the universe were sup¬ 
plying its fuel, while all the demons from the re¬ 
gions below were blowing the bellows and poking up 
the quenchless flames and their efforts were being 
rewarded with a great degree of success; that the fire 
had now gotten beyond their control for the sea- 

scented heavens seemed all but ablaze in the redness 
% 

of its heat. “Too red!” thought I, then I repeated 
aloud: 

“Too red!” 

“The sun can be no redder,” responded a big-bodied 
stump of manhood, whose lower trunk would look 
like a beer keg, if a keg could be so made as to have 
a bay window attachment. 

Directly the sun began to rise, just as if a million 
• horse-power were beneath it pushing it up. Bright 
as was the sun, it was not at its best until it cleared 
the water. It is then one realizes the omission of a 
smoked glass. One might think the night’s rest of 
the eye is the cause of its strength so early in the 
morning. It is true, the eyes are stronger in the 



98 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


morning than at any other time of the day, but that 
is not the only reason why the glow of the sun fails 
to affect the eyes in the morning; it is because there 
is an invisible mist along the surface of the sea 
through which the range of the eye penetrates to see 
the sun; this soft mellow haze protects the eye with¬ 
out lessening the beauty of the sunrise. 

The first dawn of day exhibits a beautiful obscur¬ 
ity. Then the east begins faintly to brighten with the 
reflections only of effulgence, a pleasing progressive 
light is thrown over the face of the sky. A single 
ray is able to assist the appreciative eye for the pic¬ 
turesque and glorious, which by such aid creates many 
imaginary scenes, and as the sun gradually ascends, 
though as yet unseen, while the light steals gradually 
on, the mind is now wondering at the effect as the sun 
nears the surface of the water. The eye notices the 
brightening of the sky in the far east, the other side 
of the world, as it were, but when the sun begins to 
push up the outer rim of his big gold coin (for that 
is what it looks like), your mind reverts homeward; 
you say: “Why, the sun is not ten miles away!” It 
does not appear the same every morning, for the rea¬ 
son that some mornings he rises in clear atmosphere, 
at which time he appears quite near us. But when the 
atmosphere is thick and misty, or cloudy, he appears 
far away, with a shadow behind him. 

But I am now telling of this morning’s sun, and 
as I have said, the outer edge of the big gold coin 
was just being pushed up out of the water. The sky 
is clear, it is, in fact, an unsullied brightness, diffusing 
its ruddy light over the expanse of the sea, causing 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


99 


shadows on the rippling waves; giving in color, bright 
green and dark blue, for the waves this morning are 
at right angles from the sun’s reflection. This, as 
will readily be seen, casts the waves into shadows, 
causing the different colors. This scene lasts but a 
moment, for the sun seemingly travels much faster 
when rising, because of the object it is passing. In 
fact, the rising seems the shooting or pushing up over 
the water’s horizon. The naked eye can see the sun 
move upward, it is better, however, to look through 
a smoked glass. The blending of brilliant yet soft 
colors has a delightful effect. When the sun’s lower 
edge passes above the water, then the scenery shifts— 
the object of your admiration is off in the far east, 
and there is nothing behind it; which but a moment 
before was quite near you and the earth’s shadow in 
the background. Now, from its altitude, its ruddy 
tint gives to the waves a bright silvery gleam. There 
is no hidden obscurity now, everything is perfectly 
clear. The vanished nearness had given place to 
brightness and distance. This scene, at this particu¬ 
lar time, furnishes an idea worth treasuring among 
the choicest appearance of nature. 

One cannot compare the rising of the sun on differ¬ 
ent mornings. I never saw the appearance just the 
same—the discrimination is easily accounted for, 
caused by atmospheric changes. One morning, ( like 
this one, the air is clear, a misty or a foggy morn¬ 
ing presents a vastly different phenomenon. 

The meridan sun exhibits fewer incidental beauties 
than does the orb of day at rising. Noon sun sheds 
his perpendicular rays—all is illumination; there are 



100 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


no shadows to balance such a glare of light—no con¬ 
trast to oppose it. 

I have heard doubts expressed as to the relative 
beauty between the rising and setting sun. If there 
be a difference as to which is the more picturesque, 
I cast my choice for the rising sun, if for no other rea¬ 
son than that at the rising of the sun everything is 
bright in the east and intensely dark in the west, the 
bright light of the east penetrating the darkness of the 
west makes a verybeautiful transition; the darkness in 
the west gradually changing to blue, than a paler blue, 
so that the eye may penetrate it, then grows into 
blending of colors like the genius of a painter who 
blends in changing his coloring. The setting of the 
sun leaves in the far east nearly the brightness of 
the west, this is caused by the descending of the sun’s 
brightness, yet reflecting through the skies. 

The picturesque scenes of the rising, as well as the 
setting of the sun can better be described through the 
imagination of the poet than by the pencil of the 
writer of prose. 

It is to this part of the world that thousands of 
people come every winter to spend the season in this 
delightful Mediterranean coast, which bears the ap¬ 
propriate name of “La Cote D’ Azur.” The deep 
blue of the sky, and sea studded with golden isles, 
which no one who yields to its charm would ever 
think of disputing its witchery. It is no wonder that 
the travelling tourists are attracted by their admira¬ 
tion for these mountainous shores. Again we passed 
by Maritime Alps where it is doubtful if the foot of 
man ever trod, and we saw valleys in their native 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


101 


wilderness. It is a false idea that the Moroccan 
country is densely settled; in my opinion it would be 
better if the mountains in the Moroccan country were 
not there. We have heretofore seen places of a wild 
grandeur resting in the calm and quiet picturesque¬ 
ness of natures solitude. But here the naked rocky 
mountain presents more solitude than grandeur. 

By the aid of our field glasses we could see ahead 
and to the right the white houses of Algiers. Seem¬ 
ingly the boat was about to pass the city for we are 
fully six miles out and nearly to the left, steadily head¬ 
ing toward the rising sun; some one remarked, that 
the city to the right cannot be Algiers, or we would 
be heading that way. I was standing in the center 
of the ship, my eyes on line with the flag pole on the 
bow of the boat, taking a long sight on a Moroccan 
mountain beyond, and in this way I was the first 
to notice the slow turning landward of the big 
ship. 

“What a beautiful easy curve!” I suggested. “See 
how the ship circles the entrance.” For by this time 
the circle was noticed by all present. 

“Look astern and see the nice curve in the water 
track of our grand big ship, that had carried us thus 
far in safety.” 

We were now completing the semi-circle and going 
straight for the harbor. The band began to discourse 
its sweet music, and we all went below for breakfast 
as the whistle sounded for the harbor. 

After breakfast we went for the first time on pon¬ 
toon bridges from the ship to shore, a novelty in 
touring. Each passenger, as usual, was provided with 



102 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


the number of the carriage he was to ride in, which 
method facilitated quick access to the carriages. 

We were soon whirling along the stone streets up 
into the city, to such parts of the city that could be 
reached by carriages, and then at the hour of twelve, 
to the best hotel for lunch. Here we found our own 
stewards to assist in waiting on the tables. The eat¬ 
ables were fairly good. I do not know why we ate 
in a hotel, for we were near our boat, unless it is, 
that the officers of the boat wanted to show us that 
no first class hotel equalled the ship’s “grub.” Of 
this fact we had already become quite well aware, by 
actual experience, that best of teachers. In the after¬ 
noon we took donkeys to ride through that part of 
the city inaccessible for carriages. It was a repeti¬ 
tion in fun and frolic like we had a few days be¬ 
fore in Tangier. For if you want a budget of fun, 
secure four or five hundred inexperienced riders on 
as many donkeys; you will get the worth of your 
money in laughter and mirth. Some of the happen¬ 
ings of that afternoon can be better told in bated 
breath than safely put into print. 

The second day we again took carriages and viewed 
the new part of the city, the Botanical Gardens, per¬ 
haps the finest on the globe, the Polo Grounds. Then 
a long suburban drive in which we saw quite a few 
factories and gradually ascended the mountain top, 
to view the palace of a former Sultan, now the pal¬ 
ace of the governor. 

Algiers is the capital of the French colony of 
Algeria, on the north coast of Africa. The older por¬ 
tion of this city is distinctly oriental, the newer por- 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


103 


tion distinctly French, thus presenting many striking 
contrasts. The low, one-story houses which rise in 
terraces like an ampitheatre, are dazzling whiteness, 
while above them frowns the Casbah, an ancient for¬ 
tress, five hundred feet above the sea. The presence 
of Arabians, Turks, Moors and Bedouins in their 
original garb; the arrival of caravans of heavily 
loaded camels and donkeys from the interior; the - 
snake-charmer and story-teller in the public street all 
display the oriental character of this part of the 
world. 

Algiers, the most important naval and commercial 
harbor of Algeria, has a population of one hundred 
thousand people. The European quarter spreads out 
round the splendid harbor, and the wide streets and 
stately houses, make quite a friendly impression, 
whereas the old native portion of the city, rising in 
rows, has every characteristic of an oriental city. 
Motley crowds of North Africans pass hither and 
thither—a veritable mixture of all the colors of the 
rainbow. A little above the strong harbor walls are 
the Boulevards de la Republique and Carnot, where 
a fine view is obtained of the harbor and the town 
lying at the foot of Casbah. These two promenades 
are the favorite resort of strangers. Among the 
numerous mosques, the Mosque Djalma Kebir is the 
prettiest and most interesting place. 

In the afternoon of that day the tourist was turned 
loose to do shopping, many fine oriental rugs and 
silks were taken aboard the ship that night; and 
are now evidently enriching the homes of many 
Americans. 



CHAPTER XIII 


GLOBE TROTTING 

It was the gloaming of the evening when we re¬ 
turned to the ship. The day passed so swiftly that 
after dinner, coming out on the promenade deck, the 
night seemed in midnight darkness, which largely 
added to the beauty nearly surrounding us. The sea 
front of Algiers is in the shape of a crescent, and 
our ship was anchored inside of the nearly semi-circle. 
As I have stated, the night was very dark, which made 
the many thousands of electric lights shine more bril¬ 
liantly. The steepness of the hill, on which the upper 
part of the city is built, permits a good view to each 
street when illuminated as it was then. The reflec¬ 
tions of these many lights on the peaceful waters of 
the sleeping bay, gave it the appearance of a reflection 
from a clear sky, studded with myriads of twinkling 
stars. 

To my inartistic eye, it was indeed a scene of in¬ 
expressible grandeur. I was not alone in my views, 
as I was accorded the free expression of all behold¬ 
ing the scene, the like of which probably cannot be 
seen on any other spot on the globe. 

Our boat is now raising her gang-stairs that have 
been the way of egress and ingress to the pontoon 

104 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


105 


bridges below. The band is playing an English part¬ 
ing piece, having just finished a French hymn of the 
same character, in respect to three French battleships 
and the two English cruisers lying nearby in this har¬ 
bor. Such complimentary recognition between na¬ 
tions at peace, is beautiful expression of friendship. 
It will bring forth like tribute from the respective 
bands of the anchored ships. 

The ship is now beginning to move, the band hav¬ 
ing finished the hymn. The English band is the 
first to respond, rendering “Hail to the Chief,” un¬ 
doubtedly intending it for America, for our flag, as 
well as the German flag, was floating from the mast 
all day. 

Our big ship has her nose well out to sea and is 
going in her speed into the impenetrable darkness. As 
the last sound of the English band ceased, the French 
band wafted after us “Dixie;” music that never fails 
to arouse all American hearts, whether of the North 
or of the South. To which in due time our band sent 
back a German rendition that sounded like “Good-by, 
my Honey, Good-by.” 

By this time we can see but a faint spark of light 
from the shore of Algiers, which soon faded like a 
lightning bug, into a remote distance. 

The orchestra is on the promenade deck, which deck 
is nicely draped in bunting, illuminated by many elec¬ 
tric lights of variegated colors, the floor thoroughly 
waxed, the walls and ceiling appropriately canvased 
separated the overly cool sea breeze from the neces¬ 
sary heat within. The long, sweet strains of waltz 
music of the orchestra has brought forth age as well 



106 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


as youth and beauty, which again mingled in a happy 
recreation. For this is the captain’s ball, and it will 
continue until the hour of eleven o’clock, during which 
time lemonade and cake will be again and again 
served. 

We are now crossing the Mediterranean to Genoa. 
The itinerary of our tour shows that we will have two 
more crossings, from Malta to Port Said, and from 
Jaffa to Piraeus. This crossing will consume two 
nights and one day of our maximum speed. 

Reading the many incidents of travel induces in 
the mind of the reader the thought: “Is there pleas¬ 
ure in travelling, daily meeting new faces that perhaps 
you will never meet again; passing islands, ships; en¬ 
tering harbors and being gazed upon by strange people 
not even of your own race, who have no more knowl¬ 
edge of our language than we have of theirs, many 
of whom you would not walk with ten feet in the 
dark? If you eat at their table, you will have to 
trust to their honesty to return you the proper change.” 
There are many things we are compelled to yield to 
and take our chances, upon the theory that whatever 
is best is safest, though the best at times lies most out 
of the reach of human power, and can neither be given 
nor taken away. Such is this great and beautiful work 
of nature that we are placed in, and in which we are 
anxious to remain. Such is the daily thought of man, 
as he thanks the Omnipotent for the privilege of liv¬ 
ing. It devolves on us to make the most of our part 
in the drama of life. The parts to be played by each 
one are distinctively and inseparably his own part, and 
as long as he remains in the full performance of his 




THE GLOBE TROTTER 


107 


duty. In this way we shall enjoy the society of our 
co-voyagers. 

Globe trotting, if you please, is like the perform¬ 
ance of other pleasures or labors. We go here, we go 
there intrepidly, wherever we start for, or are led by 
the course of the compass, or on shore by train. 
Wherever our ship goes, or the side excursions termi¬ 
nate, on that coast or inland city, we are thrown to¬ 
gether, we shall not find ourselves absolutely strangers 
when the cruise terminates, because there are hun¬ 
dreds of fellow tourists together. 

We meet with a few men and women, creatures of 
the same country, endowed with the same faculties, 
and born under the same laws of nature, with whom 
we would not care to associate; yet, we treat them 
with the greatest civility and honorable consideration. 
We see the same virtues and vices flowing from the 
same general principles, but varied in many different 
and contrary ways, according to that infinite variety 
of customs, of country, needs, laws and education, 
which are established for the same universal end for 
the preservation of society. 

One advantage of travel is, though we feel the 
revolutions of the seasons of the year, and the same 
sun to warm us and purify the air, and the same moon 
to soften the darkness of the night, the same azure 
sky bespangled with lamps the angels swing down 
to guide our steps, and everywhere enlighten our 
knowledge of their existence; yet, we can so arrange 
travel as to avoid the rigors of winter's cold or the 
torridity of summer heat. The way I now feel, there 
is no part of the world from whence we may not ad- 



108 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


mire those planets which guide us, in different orbits, 
round the same great central sun that illuminates the 
solar system, from whence we may not discover an 
object still more stupendous, that field—that world 
of fixed stars, hung up in the immense space of the 
blue heavens, whose twinkling, like electric sparks, 
enlighten and cherish the known and unknown worlds 
below them. And whilst I am amazed by the depth 
of such contemplations as these, it matters but little 
to me what sea we are steaming over, or what ground 
we tread upon. Things in life are changing. The 
world is on wheels; wheels do not turn fast enough— 
the mighty “greyhounds” of the ocean, speeding across 
the Atlantic in less days than weeks were consumed 
seventy years ago, are too slow. The flying machine 
is sought. The touch of the electric operator sends 
news around the globe in a few minutes. But the 
thought that the relaying of messages is too slow, 
and now wireless telegraphy is sought and put into 
practical use. Even in man’s life the resistance 
against the decline of life is not vainly sought as a 
whole, for we find the aged and most cultured people 
paving life’s passages as smoothly as possible to us, 
fence against physical evil by care, and the use of 
those means which experience must have, points out 
to us as the seats of danger; let us guard against 
moral evil by wisdom. If we follow nature, and do 
not violate its rules, we shall, barring accident or con¬ 
tagious disease, be apt to live longer than he who vio¬ 
lates all the laws of nature. The extravagance and 
excesses of life are governed by moral stupidity. The 
decay of passion strengthens the mind, though pas- 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


109 


sion may decay and stupidity not succeed. Age is no 
disadvantage while subduing what we toil to subdue 
all our lives. I recall the time when I worked in my 
office until the noon of night, then retired to my 
couch, my mind aflame with business matters. Why 
this? Money and place. We work like slaves under 
our own lash; perhaps our own conduct is a thou¬ 
sand times more detrimental to life than the punish¬ 
ment the black slave suffered from a cruel master. 
Many follow on this way until the fire in the brain 
consumes the fuel of life and the victim drops over, 
and is one of the “past.’’ I have oftentimes rolled 
in bed, my head full of schemes, and my heart palpi¬ 
tating full of anxiety. Is it a misfortune, think you, 
that I take an eighty days’ cruise to see the Orient; 
make pleasing acquaintance of two thousand or more 
cultured people, travelling as one big, happy family, 
enjoying all proper pleasures, seeking new scenes, 
meeting strange people, with no worry or hardships, 
no mental planning, or heart anxiety? I rise ere the 
sun gilds the sky; I feel refreshed; my mind is clear. 
I walk the deck, inhale the ozone of the sea, my mind 
is calm and tranquil; the past and the present business 
affairs of life stand like shadows in the distance from 
me, where I can keep off care, and from whence I can 
induce pleasures that create happiness to come nearer 
me. 

We should not dread the decay of years, when the 
seasons of the year are so good to us. The parting 
back of the curtains, exposing springtime, with all its 
flowers, its roses, its grasses, its new-growing corn, 
the playfulness of the shambling lambs, the antics of 



110 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


the young colts, and the lowing of the cows, all bathed 
in balmy zephyrs of the spring season. Can any one 
ask more? Then the sun pours down its summer 
heat and makes yellow the things so green in spring. 
We see the reaper and the farmer garner the golden 
harvest. Then the curtain is gradually lowered, while 
the shades of Autumn are awakening; again the cur¬ 
tain is drawn, and we see through the thinner woods 
over the valleys, and through the high canopies of 
trees to the higher arch of the heavens. The dews 
of the morning impearl every bush and scatter dia¬ 
monds on the mantle of the earth. The forests as¬ 
sume varied colors, attracting the eye of the painter, 
the noise of the wild fowl, the ear of the hunter. 
Then, again, the scenes gradually change, and we 
behold the icy hills, snow banks and the frozen rivers. 
What would you have? The same sun gives light 
to all, and to all seasons. The same moon shines to 
all the world. You at home see these four seasons in 
a vear; a Globe Trotter can see the four seasons in 
so many months, by just keeping on travelling. 

Having passed through the woods in the forest, 
with a thousand reveries of past pleasures, I rode 
over hanging hills whose tops were edged with groves, 
and whose feet watered with winding rivers, listening 
to the falling of cataracts below, and murmuring 
of winds and the chattering of birds above; and 
watched and wondered at the greatness of this uni¬ 
verse, until the shades of twilight overtook me, and 
even then I was not satisfied with the time given to 
such a scene. I have seen the moon rise in the clear 
sky, by whose solemn light I retraced my steps to 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


111 


camp, unhurt and with naught to mar the harmony 
of my thoughts. I have compared these forest wan¬ 
derings to the scenes in the greatest cities of the 
world, where I heard great church and cathedral bells 
toll a thousand different notes. I have heard nearly 
a hundred steeple clocks in unison proclaim the time 
of day, and every college bell answer one another, 
sounding the retiring time of night. All these toll- 
ings and sounds are unrecorded in the flight of time. 
I look at these old church and college walls, these 
venerable galleries, stone porticos, studious walks, and 
solitary cemeteries of prehistoric as well as historic 
date, and I wonder what kind of people lived in those 
days; how they dressed, and the language or tongues 
they used to communicate their wants and thoughts. 
If anything was especially alive or awake about me, it 
was a little vanity, such as others have who are blessed 
with the opportunity of such scenes. It was always 
my ambition to see the whole world. 

I have spent the evening under thousands of elec¬ 
tric lamps and saw their effect on the many hanging 
chandeliers and their thousands of glass prisms, while 
hearing the voices of the world's greatest singers and 
a chorus of half a thousand voices and the melodious 
music of the orchestra; the next day a visit to a City 
of the Dead, where granite slabs marked the last rest¬ 
ing places, antedating the Christian era. I stood in 
amazement, while my eyes in vain tried to penetrate 
the home of the dead, battered and worn and de¬ 
cayed by the hand of Time; where new light cannot 
enter through the chinks that Time has made. Turn¬ 
ing to see new-made graves recalls that death often 



112 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


comes without warning. I see an athletic youth low¬ 
ered into his grave, and I soliloquize: “Youth is but 
a betrayer of human life, in a gentler and smoother 
sphere than old age; it is like a stream that nourishes 
a plant, and causes it to flourish, but at the same time 
is decaying at the root.” 

I am not envious enough to suffer any uneasiness 
at the thought that many whom I know and never 
esteemed are likely to enjoy this world after my de¬ 
parture. I am consoling myself, that if I go first, I 
am more apt to get back fifst and behold the many 
wonders and achievements the world is daily unfold¬ 
ing. 



CHAPTER XIV 


ETHICS IN TOUR 

Philosophy teaches us that there are sciences of 
morals, designating the all important science of moral 
duty or unchanging laws. An educated and cultured 
gentleman or lady will be recognized as such in any 
part of the world, associating with cultured people. 
It is true, mannerisms change, but to a small extent 
in any country; not enough to be noticeable where 
duty or politeness is required. In a more compre¬ 
hensive sense ethics takes in man’s moral duty, not 
merely to those individuals with whom one may be 
brought in contact, but also to the body politic of 
which he or she constitutes a part. I believe it was 
Aristotle who divided the duty of man into three 
parts, his duty as a good man, his duty as a good 
father and his duty as a good citizen. If I were writ¬ 
ing on the subject of moral science, I would include 
only one duty: the duty of a good man, for that, 
in this enlightened age, includes all. Various theor¬ 
ies have been suggested regarding the basis of morals. 
One of these, extensively embraced, refers to the Di¬ 
vine will expressed in Revelations; another founds it 
on utility to society, the natural tendency of which 
is to benefit society and to produce the greatest at¬ 
tainable happiness to the greatest number of persons. 

113 


114 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


An English writer of considerable note (I have for¬ 
gotten his name, but I believe he was of the past cen¬ 
tury), considered ethics an art instead of a science. 
While I can recognize a vast difference in the mean¬ 
ing of the two words I cannot but favor the English¬ 
man’s opinion as having as much weight as that of the 
historic Aristotle. When walking along a street, and 
noticing a beautiful being in a bay-window looking 
at me, and on coming near her face is shadowed by 
the playful use of a fan, yet one eye viewing the 
stranger as he passes, these movements are so artis¬ 
tically done, that it falls within the work of an artist. 
Motives speak in precepts regarding matters of fact. 
We should regard as art, and tried by this test, ethics 
and morality are properly a portion of the art and 
science governing good society of which I desire to 
mention. 

Centuries ago, when culture was primitive, there 
was a law requiring special gowns for ladies and 
special tunics for gentlemen. Ethological rules of 
these nearly prehistoric times are not entirely abated, 
for the ladies' gowns of the civilized world are fash¬ 
ioned in Paris and gentlemen's garments are patterned 
in London. I speak not of the Orient, for while they 
are civilized people, they are not now and never will 
be of our people. Though when the people of the 
Orient visit Europe they generally adopt our customs 
and the latest fashions. 

I have already said many things seemingly not ger- 
main to the question intending to present. I want 
first to impress on the mind of the reader that the 
rules governing good society are practically the same 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


115 


the world over. Human nature is largely the same. 
Man’s affection and woman’s tenderness is the same 
everywhere. When these terms are interchangeable, 
as I have seen them, the exception to the rule appears. 

In tour you see people you do not care to meet, 
you see people who do not care to meet you; there 
are others who want to be left alone, while you see 
and then meet, or in some cases you meet and then 
see, people who can find pleasure in meeting every 
one on the ship from the Captain of the boat down 
to a sailor. You do not wonder at this, for you meet 
and know just such people at home. They are in 
every town in the world. They are actually 
human. 

No sensible person can tour the foreign courtrie? 
without retaining a sense of feeling that they are 
largely benefited by their experience. You meet peo¬ 
ple of all the better classes of society and certainly 
very few on the other side of the picture. In con¬ 
versation with these people you form new ideas dif¬ 
ferent from your own, they are as anxious to retain 
your ideas; you say something you deem common¬ 
place, it is novel to them; and vice versa. You see 
things in foreign lands that will make lasting impres¬ 
sions on your mind. You see people do things that 
you rejoice to know you do in the other way. You 
see cleanliness in places where you would be forced 
to think that poverty would not induce. You see 
filth where you would believe that wealth would not 
permit. Mentally, all this time, you are comparing 
these people to your own people at home and prais¬ 
ing the home difference. You see faces that impart 



116 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


notice of the diseases with which they are afflicted, 
and you rejoice that you are not in their condition. 
Side trips from the ship going for several days in¬ 
land with hundreds of your fellow travellers, you 
notice the care and precision taken by some and al¬ 
most the wanton conduct of others. This travelling 
is truly a great school; it teaches more than you ex¬ 
pect. It makes my mind revert to University days 
and recall the regularity of conduct within the school 
and the irregularity of conduct when not within the 
shadow of the buildings. Hotels in our own country 
are not so careful as to the character of their guests 
as are these big tourist ships. There are reasons for 
these rigid rules. Again, when we get ashore after 
many days on water, we feel hilarious to an extent 
that renders our actions noticeable; all tourists are that 
way; even the clergy, though we do nothing wrong, 
but we get out of our land trips all the fun and pleas¬ 
ure there is in them. When on the ship we prac¬ 
tice playing all kinds of innocent games. There is 
no monotony on the ship. We played cards one eve¬ 
ning while the ship was being tossed about by the 
angry waves; as I was striking down hard trumping 
the other fellow’s ace with my joker, a heave of the 
port side landed by clutched fist on the top of my 
partner’s prominent nose. This accident caused as 
much merriment as though we were actors in a drama 
and this hit on the nose was the closing climax to 
the act. That same evening with nothing on me but 
my bath robe, I was making a run from my state-room 
to the bath room to take my salt water bath. I was 
met in the narrow hallway by a big fellow weighing 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


117 


nearly three hundred, just emerging from the bath 
room. He was trying to keep on his feet; I saw he 
was about to tumble, I dodged low to avoid the force 
of the impact, just as the ship rolled to the right 
bringing my head flat against that part of his body 
that was one time tied with a string. I saw a thou¬ 
sand stars, but I measured him his length and as I 
strove to rise, I was thrown full length on him. I 
thought my neck was broken; the first thing I heard 
was two stewards in the big cross hall laughing. I 
couldn’t see anything to laugh about, but they said 
that they would swear I was also laughing. It must 
have been from the force of habit; for I could not 
see anything inducing the expression of pleasure. 
One thing I am sure of is that my victim did not 
laugh. He sat on the floor with both hands on his 
stomach, his face representing a full moon seen 
through passing perforated clouds change appearance, 
the only thing he said was: 

“You have busted the cicatrix-umbilicus of my 
carronadeF' and the next day he denied he said it; 
the third day he promised a champagne supper if we 
would not repeat the story any more on the tour. 
All I would have to do to create a laugh in a crowd 
was to remove my cap and rub a thin spot on the 
top of my cranium. During a Sunday service, just 
when the Chaplain was at the height of his eloquence, 
and I being near him, facing the audience, my hand 
unintentionally went up, perhaps to brush off a fly, 
when the whole audience began to smile; the big 
victim got up and went out. The titter enlarged into 
a laugh and came near breaking up the meeting. 



118 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


The preacher, not being on to the joke, didn t see the 
point until next day, when he gently informed me 
that I should have the privilege of attending next 
service with my cap on. I made convenient to keep 
out of the way of the big man for a whole week. 

A weeping willow widow, w 7 ith grief on her face, 
tears in her voice, a mischievous twinkle of the eye, 
as she sweetens her presence with a smile, as she 
relates her sorrows of the past. If this had been my 
first experience of the kind, I would have “tumbled” 
into her apparently welcoming arms. But she is truly 
a dear, sweet voiced young woman in her early thir- 
ties. I hope to meet her often in the journey, maybe 
I can assist her w r hen we make our side trips by rail! 
Perhaps she is travelling to try to find what amount 
of pleasure can be had by the use of the legacy of a 
large insurance policy. There is something pathetic 
about the appearance of a modest young widow, 
clothed in garlands in memory of her dear one pre¬ 
maturely departed. She has the sympathy of every 
one; she is in beautiful contrast with the giddy headed 
widow, who, ere the sod is green over the grave of the 
loved one, begins the casting of eyes, the writing of 
notes, receiving attentions of gentlemen, and then 
travelling long journeys to “soothe her sorrows and 
keep her mind from late afflictions;” while the truth 
is, she travels for the purpose of forming new ac¬ 
quaintances, and appearing in society sooner than she 
could appropriately do at home. A young widow 
bereft of her husband should maintain the unsolicited 
dignity of her position, commanding the respect of 
others, as well as also receiving their sympathy. 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


119 


Being an early riser, the first one on deck to breathe 
the ozone of the sea, gave me an opportunity to meet 
perchance a young grass-widow, always accompan¬ 
ied by her maid; I meet her every morning on the 
promenade deck. Her rich auburn hair (natural), 
large brown eyes, soft white hands (I believe), dim¬ 
ple on the lowland of her rounded face, a soft pinky 
complexion that the manufacturers of bisque dolls 
would envy, a rounded alabaster neck, and a richly 
moulded, marble-like bust that would make a poverty 
stricken French Count forget the wealth of foolish 
American heiresses and the millions of their equally 
silly fathers. 

It was a slip and a gentle fall on the damp prom¬ 
enade deck that afforded an opportunity for a sudden 
and agreeable acquaintance. It is nearly artistic to 
gracefully seek a sitting position by the influence of 
a fall; but perhaps not so pleasant as wet ship boards 
are at times cold, yet a thoughtful person might be 
mindful enough to have such accident by prevision, 
so as to have a comfortable sitting. A quick com¬ 
mand to the maid to bring some handkerchiefs and a 
bottle of smelling salts, must have been a forethought. 
I saw the maid hurriedly go, and I saw in her face 
that she would not return—she didn’t. The natural 
movement of my right induced a rising movement 
of the afflicted. My arm seemed willingly familiar. 
It seemed welcomed: I thought thus, on first acquain¬ 
tance who could wish for more? The sun was com¬ 
ing up out of the blue trough of the sea on our side 
of the boat, for the water was “choppy” this morn¬ 
ing. A long row of deck chairs nearby found two 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


120 

of the goodly number warmed by new-made friends. 
I requested a passing steward to bring a couple of 
rugs (queer name for heavy blankets), one of which 
I carefully wrapped about the injured one by the aid 
of two plump hands not yet my own. By proper 
wrapping I made sitting possible as well as comforta¬ 
ble. I didn’t care for the salted atmosphere, cool, but 
tonic like, wrapping my rug simply about my knees, 
while thinking how and what to say, I began gently 
by remarking that I felt I were very fortunate to be 
so near her at the time of the “accident,” and then 
related some of my former experience in playing the 
part of the hero, talking slowly, feeling my way as I 
was manufacturing my story out of “whole cloth,” 
winding up my sentence by proudly informing the 
dear one that I was from the Golden West, the home 
of heroes and heroines. I then cautiously asked her 
if she was from Boston. I knew she was, or if not, 
she was trying to symbolize Bostonian mannerism. 
She had one or two “ithers” or “nithers” in every sen¬ 
tence. This manner of pronunciation is proper when 
used in a community that adopts its use; these words 
having received the approval of only eight college 
professors and the condemnation of sixty other col¬ 
lege professors. I excuse the Bostonians in such use 
of language for the sole reason that in their zeal to 
be different from others they use these words for dis¬ 
tinction. I am willing that they shall have the dis¬ 
tinction, as well as the honorable name inscribed to 
that city in 1776, in using an overdose of English tea 
in the Boston harbor. 

At times I am constrained to believe a large ma- 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


121 


jority of the travelling widows carry their tears in 
cups and their only sorrows in books. 

Love is a passion and it has all the errors attendant 
upon passion. Differing from friendship, which is an 
affection tempered by reason is exempt from every 
such exceptionable quality. Love is blind to the faults 
of the object of its devotion; it adores, it idolizes, it 
is fond, it is foolish. 

How much may we expect from the human widow, 
when we recall to mind that certain widowed birds of 
the air refuse to remate and die wooing. Certain 
wild animals refuse food on losing their mates. Per¬ 
haps these instances are as rare in the bird and ani¬ 
mal kingdoms as the humans who cannot survive the 
love for the lost one. 

I have often heard it said that when we have enough 
rain, then it pours. During our first storm, while try¬ 
ing to walk from the reading saloon to my state-room, 
I was making slow progress as the ship was at times 
trying to stand on its bow and next on its stern, then 
walloping over on one side, then on the other side. 
You can imagine the difficulty in safely walking un¬ 
der such tossing. In the hallway and coming toward 
me was a young woman, who attained her majority at 
the beginning of this century. She was indeed an 
object of sympathy as from her countenance could be 
seen an expression indicating a fear that her brains 
would be dashed out against the wall. I reached her 
as soon as I could; her nerves were about gone; a 
sudden heave of the ship to the port side threw her 
into my willing arms. In person she is well formed, 
I discovered that first, she is of middle size, with 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


122 

dignity and gracefulness of deportment, and mingled 
gravity and sweetness of demeanor. Her complex¬ 
ion is fair, her hair inclining to dark; her eyes a clear 
blue with a benign expression, and there was a sin¬ 
gular modesty in her countenance, gracing as it did 
a wonderful firmness of intent and earnestness of 
spirit. She combined a feminine energy of purpose 
with the utmost tenderness of heart, and softness of 
temper and manner truly womanly. Her self com¬ 
mand was allied by friendliness, and her generous and 
magnanimous spirit disdained all indirect measures. 
Her vigor, her constancy, her magnanimity, her pene¬ 
tration, vigilance, and address, are allowed to merit 
the highest praises, and appear not to have been sur¬ 
passed by any person. A conduct less rigorous, less 
imperious, more sincere, more indulgent to her 
friends, would have been requisite to form a perfect 
character. By the force of her mind she controls all 
her more active and stronger qualities, and prevents 
them from running into excess; her heroism during 
the storm was exempt from temerity, her frugality 
when ashore among the poor showed she is free from 
avarice, her friendship from partiality, active temper 
from turbulency and a vein of humor mixed with am¬ 
bition for more. She guarded herself with equal 
success from lesser infirmities; the rivalship of beauty, 
the desire of admiration, the jealousy of love, and 
the sallies of anger. 

Endowed with a noticeable command over herself, 
she presumes a like influence over her friends; and 
while she merits all their esteem by her good, 
womanly qualities, she also engages their affections 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


123 


by her pretended ones. Though seemingly unac¬ 
quainted with the practice of toleration—the true se¬ 
cret of influencing those within her sphere—she re¬ 
tains her friends by her superior prudence, from those 
confusions in which associations involve a party of 
tourists banded together for months. It must be 
borne in mind that a boat of the magnitude of ours, 
every room full with tourists travelling for pleasure, 
scenery and display of wealth, of costumes and of rare 
jewels, and where social entertainments are in con¬ 
stant rage, that rivalry of persons, in point of beauty 
and wealth cannot be suppressed. The combined 
wealth of all of our tourists would far exceed a bil¬ 
lion dollars. One having only about one hundred 
thousand, less or more, to be of their class, neces¬ 
sarily must in brains, wit, or some other quality ex¬ 
ceed the others. In this way we overcome many 
conventionalities, which gives one a more democratic 
feeling. In fact, more homelike. Excess of wealth 
has the tendency to infuse in the minds of the for¬ 
tunate ones, thoughts of superiority and greatness, 
those less afflicted feel their places. A woman hav¬ 
ing the tact and diplomacy to retain the friendship and 
esteem of both contending factions and by her vigor 
to make deep impressions on their minds, solidifying 
their feelings, and making all friends, is certainly an 
uncommon person. Of these my new made friend is 
past grand mistress. In doing all this, her own high 
position remaining untouched and unimpaired, she is 
certainly a diplomat. 

w With all these ennobling qualities, she with bated 
breath whispered to me these unwelcome words: 



124 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


“I am an Alfalfa widow.” 

Alas, poor me. The height of hopes, ambition was 
shattered by these five ever to be remembered words, 
gently falling from the lips I was about to impress, 
and anchoring into my heart, turned hopes and am¬ 
bition to the coldness and hardness of stone. 



CHAPTER XV 


GENOA 

It was not quite clear daylight February i6th, 
when I was standing by the Bridge on our boat, look¬ 
ing through a strong glass to catch the first sight of 
the Rivieran hills of Italy. They were not as yet 
visible. I was the only tourist out on the hurricane 
deck. I took another long look, but the want of the 
assistance of sufficient light forestalled my hopes. I 
went below to the smoking room and had a nice cup 
of good hot coffee (nothing else). Then a stroll 
round the promenade deck, and then I again climbed 
the stairs to the Bridge. This time I was favored by 
more light. I thought I could see land, but the offi¬ 
cer on the Bridge discouraged my hopes by inform¬ 
ing me that it was a dark cloud hanging along the 
Riviera, that had the semblance of dark hills. As 
his glass was much larger and stronger than mine I 
acquiesced to his statement. 

I walked the hurricane deck, which is the roof of 
the ship, to keep warm, for the morning breeze was 
quite cool. During all this time I noticed the officer 
on the Bridge was using a glass in searching the im¬ 
penetrable wall of darkness or vapor that obscured 
the view from land, as the officer told me we were 
then within fifteen miles from Genoa, and could eas- 

125 


126 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


ily see it on a clear morning. I again looked through 
my glasses in vain. I heard friendly chattering be¬ 
hind me and a cheerful “Good morning” greeted my 
ears. “And you beat me up again,” said the young 
widow as she came to my left side, while her mother 
touched my elbow on the other side. 

They, too, had glasses, but glasses to penetrate 
banks of fog have not yet been invented, or other 
methods of penetration have not been discovered. 

Ineffectual attempts to see shore, together with a 
strong cool breeze from the south, suggested the 
thought in the mind of the elderly lady to retire to 
the smoking room for hot coffee. I accepted their 
joint invitation to sup hot coffee. We descended the 
first stairs and had passed along the promenade deck 
and were descending the second stairs, perhaps half¬ 
way down, when the young widow, who was immedi¬ 
ately in front of me, mis-stepped, intentionally or 
otherwise I will never know, but she had the presence 
of mind to grab backward and thereby readily se¬ 
cured a good hold on my left trotter, causing a sud¬ 
den stop, which nicely landed her mother solidly on 
my back. 

“Well supplied with widows fore and aft,” I laugh¬ 
ingly exclaimed. They both joined in the hilarity 
the incident caused, and the woman in the rear let 
loose first. The other one was frightened; she held 
me fast by my calf. 

“It was a long time since I had a two hundred 
pound weight on my back,” thought I. I would per¬ 
haps have enjoyed the young woman's grip, if it were 
not for the immediate proximity of her mother. Time 




MONUMENT CELLE (Monteverde, sculptor). 

Cruel Fate drags with her into the sepulcher a young 
woman full of life and vigor. The contrast between the two 
figures is of very fine effect. It is entitled “The Eternal 
Drama,” meaning the Struggle between Death and Life. 

—Page 126 





















THE GLOBE TROTTER 


w 


and place have as much to do with causes as with 
effect. 

‘Tin afraid I'll fall!” exclaimed the younger one. 

My left hand was gripping the hand rail to the 
stairway; the other hand being free, I stepped down 
two steps on the stairs and partially encircled the 
“dear one” with my right. I tried, in vain, to pinch 
as hard as she had pinched me, but my grip was too 
circular and of too larg*e proportion to do the lemon 
act, and I found more pleasure in encircling her ex¬ 
perienced waist, then having my left limb pinched. 
We had no further mishaps in reaching the smoking 
room. 

“Coffee for three!” exclaimed the yet frightened 
widow. 

How I do sympathize with these poor nervous be¬ 
ings, who know so well just when to be nervous, to 
fall and to faint. 

We were relishing our coffee and hot rolls, when 
the subject of getting the first sight of the Riviera 
became prominent in our minds, then my mind sug¬ 
gested the thought: 

“To see through that foggy bank, wouldn’t it be 
better to partake of something stronger than coffee?'’ 

I couldn’t get them to agree with me. Then I re¬ 
lated my experience of seven years previous in cross¬ 
ing the north Atlantic, stating I was up early every 
morning before daylight, and remained until break¬ 
fast on deck, but never got sight of a whale, and 
those who got up later and drank something stronger 
than coffee saw whales every morning. 

I didn’t further try to induce the use of bank pene- 



128 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


trator, but before we completed the drinking of our 
coffee the foghorn commenced to blow, and on go¬ 
ing out on the promenade deck, we discovered that 
the fog had reached the boat, and the boat’s whistle 
was blowing. The fog was in and about every nook 
and corner of the vessel. The foghorn continually 
blowing, and by this time the boat was but little more 
than moving. Other crafts must be going into port, 
as foghorn whistles were now blowing to our right 
and left and in front of us. The fog was so dense 
that it dampened our coats and we again returned to 
the interior of the ship. Looking out on the prom¬ 
enade deck as well as the sea, it had the appearance of 
a cloud settling down upon us. The sun arose 
through the fog, having the appearance of a full 
moon, so dense was the vapor. A change of the 
wind seemingly worked its way beneath the fog. 
Then joined by my two friends we again ascended to 
the hurricane deck, and it was one of the pleasures 
of our lives to see the wind raise the fog. As the 
fog arose, we began to see the ships, the harbor, then 
the city. The fog arose like the rising of a stage 
curtain exposing to ready view a grand panorama of 
the beautiful crescent-shaped city of Genoa, the pride 
of the Mediterranean, which was now before us in 
the magnificence of all its grandeur. The leading 
commercial port of Italy; older in legendary history 
than Rome itself, Genoa is an interesting as it is 
beautiful. It has eighty churches and is encircled by 
fortifications. They are no less remarkable than the 
beautiful mountain scenery which affords the town a 
memorable background. Notable among the environs 




MONUMENT DA PASANO (Costa, sculptor). 

A young woman on her death-bed has raised herself on her 
left arm. Near her is a deceased sister who, crowned with 
roses and with flowing hair upon her shoulders, has returned 
on Earth to lead the dying one to Heaven. Flowers are scat¬ 
tered round the bed, and at the foot two little angels with 
sorrowful aspect extinguish the Torch of Life by turning it 
towards the ground. 


—Page 129 



























THE GLOBE TROTTER 


129 


are the Villa Pallavicini, at Pegli, with its beautiful 
gardens; the ancient Roman burial ground and sta¬ 
lactite grotto. Several of the well-known palaces, 
with their valuable collections of paintings and other 
works of art, as well as the famous Campo Santo. 
The latter, with its innumerable statues, contains a 
phenomenal collection of the finest sculptures in 
Italy. 

Genoa has 250,000 inhabitants, and is the centre 
of foreign intercourse for the whole of the Riviera, 
with a delightful situation. The wide sea of houses 
stretching in a semi-circle along the gulf contains 
several magnificent edifices, giving it a pleasant vari¬ 
ation ; a little farther out the neat villas and luxurious 
vegetation form a splendid background. 

An enchanting panorama unrolls itself before the 
gaze of the passenger as he drives along the Via di 
Circonvallazione al monte, hanging on mighty zig¬ 
zag ledges of the rock, and then along the Via di 
Circonvallazione al mare, running parallel with the 
coast and quite close to the wonderfully blue sea. The 
magnificent churchyard of the Campo Santo is very 
renowned. One of the most attractive excusions is 
to Pegli, situated on the seacoast and especially noted 
for its villas, of which the Villa Pallavicini, with its 
beautiful gardens planted with exotical plants, is 
greatly visited. 

Genoa is in latitude 44 0 24' 16" north, and its 
longitude is 8° 54' 15" east. It occupies all the level 
ground from the sea front, along the shore, and as 
the city grew into larger proportions the hillsides, and 
finally the summit of the Ligurian Alps, which af- 



130 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


ford an advantage for the effective display of its 
architectural magnificence. In the tenth century 
Genoa was a large city. The present line of circum- 
vallation dates from 1626 to 1632, the period when 
the independence of Genoa was threatened by the 
dukes of Savoy. 

From the mouth of the Bizagno in the east, and 
from the lighthouse point in the west, it stretches 
inland over hill and dale to the great fort Sperone, 
at the height of one thousand six hundred and fifty 
feet, the circuit being less than twelve miles, and all 
the important points along the line being fortified by 
strong batteries. 

The irregular relief of its sites, and its long con¬ 
finement within the limit of fortifications, which it had 
outgrown, have both contributed to render Genoa a 
picturesque confusion of narrow streets, lanes and 
alleys which it would almost require a native born to 
name, varied with stairways climbing the steeper 
slopes, and bridges spanning the deeper valleys. As 
there are large portions of the city which are quite 
inaccessible to ordinary carriages or electric motors, 
and many even of the more important streets have lit¬ 
tle room for traffic, porters and chairs take, to a large 
extent, the place of cabs, and goods are frequently 
transported on donkeys and hand carts. 

Of the churches of this city, which number about 
one hundred, the largest and the principal is the cathe¬ 
dral of St. Laurence. Tradition makes its foundation 
contemporary with St. Laurence himself; there is a 
distinct historic mention of a church on the site in the 
latter part of the ninth century. At that time it was 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


131 


a metropolitan church. Reconstructed about the elev¬ 
enth and beginning about the twelfth century, it was 
formally consecrated by Pope Gelasius II, the eigh¬ 
teenth of October, 1118. In the facade the lower 
port, with the three elaborate doorways in the 
Gothico-Moorish style, dates from the twelfth cen¬ 
tury. The internal decoration, beautiful as it is ar¬ 
tistic, the most noteworthy painting represents the 
Slaughter of the Innocents, and in wood the Martyr¬ 
dom of St. Laurence in the woodwork of the choir. 
There are also bronze statues as well as marble stat¬ 
ues, the stained-glass windows of the choir, repre¬ 
senting the four patron saints of the city. To the 
chapel of St. John the Baptist we must ascribe the 
greatest work. Its designs contain an elaborate de¬ 
tail of columns and arabesques, and foliage and stat¬ 
ues. Pio Domenico da Bissone labored ten years on 
this great work of art. Many fine white marble stat¬ 
ues grace the interior of this great structure. 

Of older date than the Cathedral is the church of 
St. Ambrose and St. Peter, if its first foundation be 
correctly assigned to the Milanese bishop Hororatus 
of the sixth century; but the present edifice is due to 
the Society of Jesus, who obtained its possession in 

1587- 

May I be pardoned if I pass the remainder of these 
churches and no longer dwell upon the wealth of their 
collections in paintings, bronze and marble statuary? 
Its detailed description would more properly appeal; 
in a book of art. 

Benevolent institutions are in ample number and 
magnitude to care for all the unfortunates. 



132 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


The highest educational institution in the city is 
the Royal University, which occupies a palace in the 
Via Balbi, built in 1625 on the site where was a like 
building in 1471, which school had the right of con¬ 
ferring degrees from Pope Sixtus IV. Its library 
contains one hundred thousand volumes, is of great 
value and constantly used by the Genoese. 

Genoa is a city of schools as well as churches. A 
high school for girls, a female normal school, a 
teachers’ training school. 

The Royal Technical Institute comprises three dis¬ 
tinct sections—a professional industrial institute, in¬ 
stitute of mercantile marine, and a system of exer¬ 
cising classes in mathematics, chemistry, mechanics, 
etc., and a royal naval college. 

Ligurian Academy of the fine arts has been a suc¬ 
cessful institute since 1751. Also museums and art 
galleries. A large musical institute, and a society for 
the promotion of fine art also among the number. 

The local industry devotes itself mainly to the 
manufacture of cotton and silk, gold, silver, ivory and 
coral, paper and leather goods, macaroni and vermi¬ 
celli, sugar and preserved fruits. 

The council directing the local government of the. 
city is chosen by a body, every citizen paying forty 
francs of taxes being entitled to vote. The head of 
the council is the syndic or mayor, chosen by the 
King from the twelve members of the giunta or ad¬ 
ministrative committee. 

The palaces of the Genoese patricians are famous 
for their sumptuous architecture and their artistic col¬ 
lections. The old palace of the doges, now the seat of 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


13B 


the prefecture, was built in the beginning* of the four- 
teenth century, and rebuilt in the sixteenth century. 

A sixteenth century palace, formerly the property 
of the dukes of Tarin, is now occupied by the muni¬ 
cipality, and contains, among its more curious treas¬ 
ures, a bronze tablet with an inscription dating 117 
A. D., relating* to a dispute between Genoa and a 
neighboring castle, two autograph letters of Colum¬ 
bus, and Paganini’s violin. The royal palace, built 
in the middle of the sixteenth century for the Du- 
razzo family, was acquired by Victor Emmanuel in 
1817. In which, at the present time, the royal family 
spend much of their time. It is a four-story brick 
structure of very large proportions; containing some 
fine marble statuary and a large quantity of painting 
of the masters. 

In the immediate suburbs of the city is Genoa 
Cemetery, known as Cimitero di Staglieno, which is 
unquestionably and admitted to be the largest, finest, 
the most expensive, as well as the most artistically 
constructed of anything of its kind in the world. Yet, 
it may perhaps be truthfully said that there is not 
another one of its kind or class on the globe. Per¬ 
haps it covers twenty acres, maybe a little less. It is 
encircled by a building two stories high, having 
four entrances. This long building has a court 
within its walls. This court contains graves with 
tombstones, but this is the only part that should 
be named a cemetery. The long building, several' 
thousand feet in length, and perhaps nearly one hun¬ 
dred feet in width, is more properly one continuous 
mausoleum, around the grounds. In the centre of 



134 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


this very wonderful structure is a hall perhaps forty 
feet in width, and perhaps the same number of feet 
in height, having on either side and in regular order, 
crypts from the ground to the ceiling; on the inner 
side of the building fronting also has a line of crypts 
to the roof, with a long porch-like structure cover¬ 
ing wide granite walk ways. Where the tomb be¬ 
longs to persons of large wealth, it is adorned with 
large sculptured statuary. It occupies one whole sec¬ 
tion of tomb. Hundreds of life-sized marble statu¬ 
ary adorn the tombs or Sarcophagus, in all their 
magnificent sepulchral monumental splendor, portray 
the survivor of the dead in prayer, the departed in 
heavenly purity, etc. 

Our boat disembarked one hundred and sixty-four 
passengers touring Europe, and took on two hundred 
and two passengers, mostly Germans, a most magnifi¬ 
cent body of men and women; large, fine looking, 
vigorous and respectable. It was the regret of the 
other passengers that but few of these Germans could 
speak the English language. 

Germans are generally strong and vigorous people. 
They know how to eat better than any other people. 
It is quite immaterial to them that they are busy or 
not at meal time; when meal time comes they eat as 
human beings should eat, each meal consumes one 
hour, their two lunches fifteen to thirty minutes each. 
Three and one-half hours each day is by them con¬ 
sumed in eating. The German eats and he talks. 
He breaks his bread and with a small piece in one 
hand he takes a small bite; while chewing he stops 
to talk; his liquid, whatever it may be, he sups. Then 




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THE GLOBE TROTTER 


135 


while cutting his food he talks. He thoroughly mas¬ 
ticates his food before swallowing. His conversa¬ 
tion, whatever it may be is not of his daily business. 
Business is dethroned from his brain during the din¬ 
ing hour. After completing the taking of his food, 
he sips his coffee or whatever liquid he is using. 

If the Americans could only adopt the German way 
of eating there would be less dyspepsia, and fewer 
ill-tempered people. They would be stronger, more 
vigorous, live longer, be happier, and have better 
health. 

The average American arises a little late, he rushes 
to his breakfast table, frequently drinking hot coffee 
on an empty stomach, as though to drive back into 
its walls all the mucus that flows out to receive and 
properly digest the food that should be slowly dropped 
into the stomach for its treatment in digestion. If 
the weather be warm, we then take a glass of ice 
water, which has the same effect as hot coffee. Then 
comes the process of shooting food into the stomach 
while the mind is in the store, or in the office, where, 
perhaps it was during an unrestful night. The object 
of eating breakfast with the average American is to 
maintain the body until the noon lunch. For this 
reason the eater has no time to talk pleasantly, or 
render words of cheer. He takes his lunch up-town, 
and if he were overly busy all day, he wants an early 
rest His kind wife has the evening spotless cloth 
spread on his return. He is hungry; he eats too fast 
to talk, just because he is hungry. Then he takes 
a ride in his auto or carriage, or romps with his chil¬ 
dren. He feels the bad effects of his supper. He 



136 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


blames the food. It doesn’t occur to him that the 
unpleasant effect is caused by the saliva in the stom¬ 
ach rolling about the food in its endeavor to cut it up 
into small matter to send down in the proper way. I 
believe that more than half the Americans have dys¬ 
pepsia. 

Yet, the Americans are the greatest and the best 
people in the world. How much stronger and hap¬ 
pier they would be were they to adopt the German 
way of eating. 

Among the two hundred and two passenger-tourists 
coming aboard our ship at Genoa, Count Matuschka, 
and his estimable wife Lizzie Countess Matuschka- 
Hohenau, and their Cousin Albrecht, Count Hohenau, 
were in the number. Count Matuschka speaks only 
German and French, while the Countess and Count 
Hohenau speak German, French and English fluently- 
A more agreeable trio could not well be found. They 
did not mix with the passengers. Their reserve 
was as noticeable as it was proper and correct. They 
finally became acquainted with a few with whom they 
associated limitedly during the cruise. 

The two counts are a little above the average size, 
healthful in appearance as they are physically the em¬ 
bodiment of noble manhood. Count Matuschka is 
forty and Count Hohenau twenty-nine }^ears of age, 
a good dancer and a jolly good fellow. 

But it is of the Countess I desire especially to 
speak: A typical blond, of perfect weight and height, 
her face is purely classic, eyes, nose and chin sub¬ 
jects for a painter. It is seldom one sees perfect fea¬ 
tures on a charming woman, but the Countess is the 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


137 


exception. Her every movement, her conversation 
as well as her charming personality, bespeak patri¬ 
cian ancestry. I cannot recall ever having met a lady 
whose exquisite manner so lastingly pleased me as 
did the Countess Matuschka. Her perfect stature, 
elegance, beauty and “that nameless finer leaven lent 
of blood and courtly grace,'* and above all that subtle 
charm of feminity without which no woman is truly 
beautiful, would place her a leading light among 
court beauties, and, if American, would grant her the 
honorable title of “American Queen.” 

Count Matuschka and his queenly wife are distant 
relatives of each other, both are nearer relatives of 
Albrecht, Count Hohenau, while all three are full 
cousins of Emperor William of Germany. 



CHAPTER XVI 


MONTE CARLO AND VILLEFRANCHE 

Leaving Genoa at ten o’clock a. m., February 
18th, then skirting the Italian shore as close as was 
safe for our ship, drawing thirty feet of water, our 
Captain was kind enough to give us the advantage of 
the coast scenery along the Riviera. A fog falling 
from the Alpine range for the first ten miles obscured 
all land scenery. At times the Alps themselves were 
not visible. The hopes that dwelt for days in our 
many minds of the picturesqueness of the incompar¬ 
able beauty of the historical Riviera, were sadly 
blighted. Fortunately a little after eleven o’clock the 
wind changed; blowing from the sea, raised the fog 
from the water, and as the cool air cast its currents 
along the smooth surface of the Mediterranean 
water, it got beneath the fog and lifted it up, and, 
as if by mechanical power, rolled it back against the 
long lines of cities and villages and then up to the 
mountain crest, not unlike the raising of a theatre 
curtain, leaving to open view beautiful pictures of 
places, far beyond our most ardent expectations. 

Our good Captain, ever faithful to his promise, ran 
the ship as close to the shore as would be safe, to 
permit the tourists viewing the many Mediterranean 
cities, constituting the Riviera, forty-nine hours were 

138 



MONUMENT PIETRO BADARACCO 
(Cevasco, sculptor). 

It represents the wife of the deceased, wrapped in a fine 
shawl of most exquisite workmanship, who is knocking with 
her knuckles at the door of the tomb and listening if the voice 
of her dear one responds to her sorrow. 


Page 138 























































THE GLOBE TROTTER 


139 


to be consumed in this cruise. Our band discoursed 
its sweet music the greater part of the time, which I 
presume sounded as pleasantly along the Riviera as 
on board the ship. 

We could see the steam railroads, the electric rail¬ 
ways, and the hundreds of swift going automobiles 
along the roads skirting the Riviera. The steam 
yachts, the sailing vessels, as well as the motor boats, 
shooting round in every direction. Truly the Riviera 
is one of the great homes of pleasure. 

It is here the rich people of the north come to 
spend their winters and participate in all the pleasures 
that this genial clime affords. These pleasures are of 
everything the mind can unfold, save the riding 
on camels, elephants, and coasting down a snow 
bank. 

Many incidents added to the pleasure of the day, 
and no accident marred the humorous feeling, attend¬ 
ing the playing of shuffleboards, the throwing of 
quoits, and the playing of cards, or promenading the 
deck, singly and double. For we never permit an 
hour of monotony to retard our one big round of 
pleasure all day. 

It was not until about eight o'clock in the evening 
that we saw the Riviera at its best, then it was when 
all the electric lights were turned on, and then it was 
that the coast line resembled an irregular string of 
electric lights, as far as our glasses could penetrate 
the search for beautiful scenes. 

As the cloak of darkness mantled the sea, the ship 
again stood a little further out from shore, for pre¬ 
cautionary purpose, I suppose. Then the lights on 



140 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


shore began to look like fire bugs in a distant low¬ 
land. 

Again this evening the heel and toe were in rhyth¬ 
mic motion to the harmonious music of the orchestra. 
The cool breeze from the sea, with its tonic-like effect, 
caused the dancers to breathe freely, and with ex¬ 
hilarating effect pushed the desire to whirl in the maze 
of the waltz more speedily. It was the noon of 
night when the last strains of music were wafted 
shoreward, and many couples sat on the promenade 
and hurricane decks and eagerly sought the twinkling 
lights along the Riviera. 

I was up early, as usual, next morning; a slight 
fog along the shore had induced the ship’s captain to 
stand still farther out at sea. It was perhaps nine 
o’clock when we could again see shore, at which time 
the boat again came nearer and then skirted the coast, 
signaled ships at anchor along the Riviera, which is 
done by manipulation of flags, or as some of the 
sailors call it, “talking with flags.’’ 

The Riviera, in literature, is known to every civil¬ 
ized country, and all cultured travellers touring the 
Mediterranean never fail to visit its shores. This, 
however, can only to the best advantage be done by 
a touring ship, for the reason the regular liners from 
New York to Genoa, or Naples, never come along 
these shores. Parties going on the regular liners, 
when reaching Genoa or Naples, in order to see the 
Riviera, have to go there by rail or electric railway, 
and then only passing through the many towns one 
never gets a full view of the Alps, and no scene from 
the sea. 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


141 


Our boat was too heavy to go nearer than three 
or four miles from Monte Carlo. The ship, how¬ 
ever, stopped in front of the famous city, fired its can¬ 
non three times, remained motionless for about thirty 
minutes, giving the tourists ample opportunity to 
view the most famous little city in the world. Per¬ 
haps the only city in the world that owns and main¬ 
tains a private cemetery, where it buries the victims 
of its own sins, pauperized into self-destruction by 
their own hands, maddened into insanity by loss of 
their worldly possessions. As the cannon was slowly 
firing her salutes to the city, I was thinking if it were 
possible that its noise could awaken the dead, and its 
echoes induce spirits of these buried thousands, to 
march down the mountain side, and hurl the rocks 
that cover their uncared-for graves upon the city and 
destroy it, drive its legalized robbers into the sea, or 
by internal wrath, mouldering for a half century, ex¬ 
plode into an earthquake, widening into gaps and 
crevices of sufficient magnitude to swallow them up 
into a subterranean cavern, every part of this little 
city of sin, that the catastrophe would be a blessing, 
and history would record the supernatural destruction 
as it did the destruction of Sodom and Gomorrah. 

After the short stay viewing Monte Carlo, our 
steamer rounded the rock-pointed promontory extend¬ 
ing into the sea, then into the Bay of Villefranche, 
where she cast anchor less than a mile from shore. 
The tourists went ashore. I, with a party, took the 
first trolley to Monte Carlo. In less than thirty min¬ 
utes we were in the Casino, under the reflected bril¬ 
liance of her thousands of electric lamps, and be- 


i 



142 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


neath its majestic ceilings, its paintings of recognized 
masters, its Corinthian columns supporting a roof per¬ 
haps seventy-five feet above; an indestructible build¬ 
ing, saving internal upheaval. 

The various rooms, each one containing a large 
table, were crowded to the extent of their capacity; 
as many women as men, all respectable in appear¬ 
ance. Applications for tickets for admission must 
be made in the first room, giving your name and resi¬ 
dence, where a close scrutiny of the applicant is made. 
We presume this is done to avoid the entrance of 
crooks and other objectional characters. Leaving our 
hats and top coats outside, we were finally permitted 
to enter the “palace.” 

I was the only sinner in our crowd. I saw the rou¬ 
lette table and the wheel going round. I pitched a 
five-franc on the table; just as the wheel was passing 
the number I threw on, it stopped : the player ex¬ 
claimed to me: 

“Vous avez perdu,” using the southern France ac¬ 
cent on the last word in such a way that it sounded 
to me like “skiddoo.” I could not control the amus¬ 
ing expression and I broke into a laugh, which caused 
my friends to believe that I won the big pile of money 
that the player was now raking off the table. I ex¬ 
plained to my friends the way I first understood the 
dealer, and then we all laughed heartily, and wan¬ 
dered off to another table, as I remarked: “I never 
had as much fun for a dollar.” 

A party on our boat won one hundred and five 
francs, and he wanted to stop us while explaining 
that he knew how always to win. I told him if he 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


143 


knew to be true what he was saying, he should quit 
the ship, play on until he could break the bank and 
soon own the Casino Palace. He insisted on giving 
information. I said “Skiddoo” to him, and we went 
on into another room where the “Thirty-forty table” 
is. Here, nothing less than five dollars is permitted; 
nothing but gold. “The dealer" throws out the sov¬ 
ereigns much like a woman throws out shelled corn 
while feeding chickens. Here is where the big games 
are played. Here is the place for the painter to get 
his settings. I saw a man of about forty years, re¬ 
spectable in appearance, of the middle class, Td guess; 
throw out six gold pieces; “thirty dollars,” thought 
I. He had been throwing gold for half an hour, al¬ 
ways losing. The dealer was just closing. The 
player exclaimed “Perdu!” The bank won. The 
victim fumbled again and found three more pieces. 
He threw them out, a man on the opposite side of 
the table raked them in. The victim looked long¬ 
ingly over the table for a while, then he looked at 
the faces of the unsympathetic crowd about the 
table; then his hands became busy, he searched his 
pockets, perhaps forgetting how long he had been 
playing a losing game. His pockets were seemingly 
as empty as the conscience of the Royal Prince, who 
owns the Casino. His eyes sought the table that he 
craved no longer riches. His face was portraying an 
inexpressible agony; he looked in sorrow at those 
who lost, and in joy on those who won. My eyes 
were fast on his face. I came for just such a sub¬ 
ject. One can learn of this place, of these victims 
and their feelings by letting one's eyes wander about 



144 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


the table. My eyes found a resting place; for the 
time being I cared naught for the table or its play¬ 
ers. I was too one-sided from him to look down 
through the windows leading to his soul, but near 
enough to see every change of his facial expression. 
I first pictured his hopes, when he was throwing out 
his last coins, and the change to misery when he lost. 
When his pockets refused to respond to his search for 
more coins, his face assumed an ashy whiteness. He 
stood motionless for minutes, then he surveyed the 
faces of every one about the table as though looking 
for some one sympathetically inclined; then his eyes 
sought the high and finely decorated ceilings, and he 
slowly walked backwards as though the walls and 
ceilings haunted him. He drew back, as though play¬ 
ing a tragic part on the stage. “Another applicant 
for the silent city on the mountain/' thought I. He 
may never know it, but I know of one person at that 
table whose heart bled for his internal misery. A 
lady of my party noticed the interest I was taking in 
the man just disappearing, and suggested: 

“Watch this large lady immediately in front of 
you, handsomely gowned.” 

I could not see her face. The room was very cool, 
as is always an evening by the seaside. I held my 
heavy coat buttoned round me. “See the side of her 
face,” whispered my lady friend; I did. Great beads 
of perspiration were oozing out and unconsciously 
raining down her face. “Burning up within,” 
thought I. She, too, like the retiring victim, kept 
playing out her gold, until she threw out the last 
piece, but always lost. She then sat down, placing 



THE GLOBE TROTTEIi 


145 


her elbows on the table rail and resting her face on 
the palms of her hands, and vacantly looked at the big 
pile of gold, that was being piled up by other victims. 
For this seemed to be the night the bank was win¬ 
ning every dollar thrown on the greedy tables. 

“Come,” said I, “Let’s go back to the boat.” We 
started, and then there ran through my mind the 
thought that if the wrath of the Master will not some 
day obliterate Monte Carlo from the face of the earth; 
that there will a day come when the wrath of civili¬ 
zation will say to France, that “if you longer act as 
protector to the sinful Principality of Monaco we 
will send a few men of war to the Riviera and use 
Monte Carlo for target practice, and when the smoke 
shall clear away, nothing but Alps will be left to tell 
where once stood the Sodom and Gomorrah of the 
twentieth century.” 

We remained two days in Villefranche, visiting the 
place named, and Nice, the city of fashion, of wealth, 
of seaside and of Alpine drives, of groves of orange, 
of figs, of bananas, of olives and numberless flowers. 



CHAPTER XVII 


THE STORK 

Nowhere in ornithology can we find the name of 
a bird whose name is so often connected with the 
human family as is the stork. The name of no bird 
is so often found in print. He is a bird of peace. 
He is not often found in the mast of a touring boat. 
He has no time for such leisure; he is a busy bird, al¬ 
ways carrying messages to human homes; he does 
not refuse to fly many miles in any time of night, in 
any kind of storm, and deliver his precious burden. 
We have evidence when his burden has been dou¬ 
bled, quite frequently trebled. Yet, on he goes, and 
when he delivers the precious one or ones, he does 
not even tarry for rest or to partake of a crumb of 
bread, or a swallow of water. His mission is so 
delicate that his coming is never mentioned except by 
royalty, who believe their place in life shadows vul¬ 
garity and indecency. Feminine delicacy is more 
rigidly observed in the middle and better class than 
in the titled class. True delicacy consists of refine¬ 
ment of action and expression. I have seen delicacy 
so politely rendered that it brought forth the most 
exacting acuteness of perception. Husband and wife, 
in the solitude of the sanctity of their own apart¬ 
ments, should practise delicacy of thought, expres- 

146 


I 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 147 

sion and action, and their children will be imbued in 
the same manner. Let the home be the sanctuary 
of everything that is refined and respectable, a halo 
of purity will then always encircle such a place. Peo¬ 
ple reared in this way are noticeable in nice man¬ 
ners; courteous, refined, polite, and invariably char¬ 
acterized by a careful observance of propriety and 
good will to all. 

There are certain species of ducks that are given 
the credit by naturalists of being the fleetest of the 
winged tribe. Experience has taught me that the 
learned writers and naturalists were in error, for the 
stork is found to far outstrip all denizens of the 
air in speed. After an exhaustive survey of the field 
it is now admitted that no bird or animal, can equal 
the speed displayed by a stork. We have known of 
steam locomotives to break lose and speed over un¬ 
obstructed roadways faster than a mile a minute. 
Cyclones have recorded eighty to one hundred miles 
an hour, strewing its pathway with ruin. But this is 
nothing to the speed of a stork when she undertakes 
to deliver her burden within the allotted time, but 
such can hardly be the case when we are confronted 
with the proof of her flight and the careful delivery 
of her precious burden unscarred and unhurt. Who 
can say that this is a progressive age? When elec¬ 
tricity takes the place of the ox that pulled men’s 
burdens and illuminates the universe, and wireless 
telegraphy succeeds the ocean cable, why not the stork 
do its work in one-third the allotted time? Why 
should it indulge in fogyism? Why procrastinate? 
The ocean is traversed in less than a week, though it 



148 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


used to take months; the American continent is cov¬ 
ered by the power of steam in six days, while by the 
old way it would take eighteen months. Why not 
the stork catch up and climb into the band wagon of 
the progressive age? I see no reason why, do you, 
gentle reader? 

Although woman is so physically constituted as to 
render the more tender and delicate offices of human 
duty her appropriate sphere of action, yet this by no 
means justifies the illiberal but common error that her 
mental abilities are only equal to her corporeal ener¬ 
gies. History of the past is rife with records of the 
mental strength and moral courage of woman. When 
the holy impulse of maternal or conjugal affection, 
the noble sentiments of tried patriotism, the angelic 
.spirit of genuine benevolence, or the awful coming 
of death have awakened in its fullest strength the 
more masculine energies of the female character, no¬ 
where can we find more cool deliberation, sagacious 
forethought, or firmness of purpose than such occa¬ 
sions have exhibited. The pages of holy writ, the 
annals of Greece and Rome, the book of Christian 
martyrdom,the records of our revolutionary struggles 
all exhibit, in their brightest hues, the moral excel¬ 
lences and unsubdued strength of woman. 

Were it not for the stork the human family would 
cease to exist in a century. 

On our boat was a young couple, married a year 
or more. It was their first cruise. In fact, their 
first ocean voyage. The voyage was taken for the 
sole benefit of the health of the lady, whose illness 
dated back prior to their marriage. The family phy- 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


149 


sician prescribed an ocean travel. The husband was 
blessed with worldly goods ample for comfort in 
travel. Perhaps the prescribing physician was not 
as well informed in certain matters as some laymen 
I know. 

In many of my early promenades this couple were 
my companions, the lady walking between her hus¬ 
band and myself, holding each of us by an arm, made 
easy walking possible for her. There is nothing in 
ocean travel so exhilarating as promenading during* 
sunrise; nothing more pleasing to the eye. If we 
are within two hundred miles of shore, which we are 
frequently passing Mediterranean islands we do not 
touch, w.e can see birds in the air, some of them even 
hazard to perch on the ship’s masts. The state-room 
of this couple was adjacent to mine. They visited 
with me and I with them. We became the best of 
friends. I had my ideas of matters not ever men¬ 
tioned by the husband to me. We dined at adjacent 
tables. The evening in question, I noticed two vacant 
chairs. I apprehended the cause. With no expecta¬ 
tion of its being* necessary for me to render assist¬ 
ance, yet, by some uncontrollable reason I started to 
return to my state-room, though unusual for me as 
I generally, after dinner, go to the deck or to the 
reading room. On nearing my room I met my friend 
looking for me. He was very much excited. Said 
his wife was delirious, raving. I told him I would 
get the head stewardess. I saw her and expressed my 
opinion to the old lady and she called an assistant 
and hurried to the sick room. I hurried to get the 
head physician. The lights were not very bright in 



150 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


the hallway and I accidently ran against a sky pilot, 
thinking him the man I was looking for, as they bore 
a close resemblance, I began to explain to him his 

immediate attention was needed-. He stopped 

me as he raised his chin, saying: 

“I am a preacher!” 

I hurried by him and found the doctor. I quickly 
directed him to the state-room of the sick. He asked 
me if a soul was about to depart. I told him no, but 
one was about to come. His room had the aroma of 
an old medicine chest. I then related to him the 
necessity of prompt attention. He said: 

“Tell them I will be in when I wash out Sir Rob¬ 
ert Blenden’s stomach.” 

I plead with him that was not so important as the 
call I brought him. He shook his head and kept on 
mixing a liquid solution. I then asked for the young 
doctor, and he coolly informed me that he was in 
the operating room, amputating a finger of one of the 
engineers, crushed by an accident. 

He coolly looked at me as he ventured: “The ser¬ 
vice you ask is very unusual on a touring ship.” I 
insisted his remarks were not appropriate; that his 
services were what was needed. There he sat with 
the ease of a man who was about to enjoy a smoke 
and watch its spiral curls. I was nearly in a rage. 
He began to sing a song of which I caught these two 
lines: 


“See him guard their lovable hour, 

Exert his soft obstetric power.” 

Wasn't that enough to make one get a club and 
try its durability on his head? 




THE GLOBE TROTTER 


151 


A flight of thought suggested the services of the 
stewardess, with the intention of coming back after 
the doctor with a cane or club. I hurried through 
the hallway to the senior stewardess’ room, a lady in 
her autumn fifties. In my hurry I imagined a flut¬ 
ter of wings. “A stork,” I muttered to myself. 
Passing the state-room of the invalid I heard a weak 
tenor voice, making its first efforts to sing or cry. 
The old stewardess was there; bless her. 

The miracle of birth was announced. Another 
spirit changed its place from Heaven to earth. Gen¬ 
erally such incidents bring joy; at first this was the 
feeling of the father. As soon as propriety permitted 
he brought the little infant out in the hall for me to 
see it. It looked healthful. In the face of the fond 
father could be seen bright hopes for the infant’s fu¬ 
ture. I asked of the mother. His face changed, his 
voice breathed agony, while he was saying: 

“Not so well.” 

I quickly turned away, silently praying for her re¬ 
covery. For days she lingered between life and 
death. The child being well cared for by another, it 
grew every day; and its color daily changing to a 
beautiful pinky white. But its color changed too 
rapidly and the physician said it could live but a day 
or two. The elder stewardess was delegated to 
gently convey the sad news to its father. It was a 
duty hard to fill. A dying child, a delirious wife, who 
had not yet known that she was a mother. In my 
efforts of thought as to how I could help this family 
it occurred to me that as there were no hopes for the 
child to live, and lingering hopes for the restoration 



152 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


of the mother's reason, it would be well to secure the 
picture of the infant to give to the mother when her 
health was restored. A camera was secured, but the 
stewardess still insisted there were hopes for its life, 
and would not permit the infant to exposure. Mon¬ 
sieur de Lancet, a newly made acquaintance of mine, 
calling me aside, whispered in my ear these encourag¬ 
ing words: 

“We can take the picture of its face after death.’' 

“That would never do,” said I. 

“Leave that to me,” rejoined the artist. 

“Take the picture of a dead infant to show to a 
woman, herself unknown to motherhood. She would 
again lose her reason, we couldn’t make her believe 
it ever breathed. Better we convince her no child was 
born, and that her trouble was other than noble 
motherhood,” suggested I. 

The sixth day the child returned to the Elysian 
Fields. As soon as its burial robes covered its short¬ 
lived body, Monsieur de Lancet took its picture. He 
showed me the negative, its closed eyes and expres¬ 
sionless lips portrayed death in all its sadness. 

“Break the glass. We can convince the mother 
that no child was born,” I demanded. 

“Come, sit by me,” said he. “I will change its ap¬ 
pearance. I can make the picture look at you. I 
can make the face smile and make you believe the 
lips were red and trying to speak at the time the pic¬ 
ture was taken.” 

I was so anxious to believe him that I did not ques¬ 
tion his artful power. I followed after him like a 
footman after his master. In the solitude of his 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


153 


state-room we arranged matters and Monsieur went to 
work, and kept up a line of converservation as he 
worked, and he labored rapidly. “What was the color 
of its eyes?” demanded he. 

“Blue, all babies' eyes are blue,” I replied, “but if 
you can make and color it, then make brown eyes like 
its mother’s.” 

“Lenses do not always see as we do. In this in¬ 
stance we will make the lenses see as we want to see 
the original.” 

“If your power is so great, give to the face the 
grace of expression, that this photo has,” said I, and 
I handed the artist the photo of the mother; that I 
brought from the table on which the little body was 
dressed. 

“That delicate face, it seems divine,” spoke the 
great artist. “I will make the dead live in this pic¬ 
ture,” said he, as he withdrew the glass from the 
light and frame to exhibit to me. But my eyes were 
not attuned to the technic of that sort of work; I 
could see nothing but a piece of glass blurred with 
something. 

“Hurry, go ahead,” said I. Just then death seemed 
unnatural to me. I had in my mind a beautiful image 
of a bright eyed little oval faced smiling infant. How 
I wished he could make a portrait that would reflect 
to me the one imbedded in my mind. But who can 
portray it? No one. 

This was the force of my interior contemplation, it 
was vividly the presence in my mind, it was now my 
cherished hope. 

“The erasures are all done,” Monsieur said in 



154 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


bated breath, and he seized a pastel and hurriedly 
picked up a piece of paper and attempted, as I sup¬ 
posed, to make eyes, lips and oval face as I had pic¬ 
tured in my mind. Then holding the paper in his left 
hand his right got fast to work. 

“If you are more than man,” said I, “then put 
dark brown hair on the infant’s head.” 

In less than an hour this remarkable artist, with 
sweat dropping from his face, stepped out from his 
darkened room with the glass in his hand. Placing 
the glass between me and the light, I could see the 
work that none but a genius could execute. I said to 
him: 

“You have made a picture that will reflect a sou¬ 
venir in the soul of the mother. You have evolved 
marvellously under the guiding hand of genius. 
There appears in the lines of visage, the tender red 
lips, the pinky oval face, where the smile of an in¬ 
fantine soul, the bright dark eyes shaded by black 
lashes, nearly picturing the coming and departing of 
the spirit. An expression on the face assuming an ef¬ 
fort to smile.” 

Monsieur de Lancet, inclining on the table, his eyes 
out the window, as though looking into open space, 
unconscious of the wonderful task he had just ac¬ 
complished. The anguish I had been experiencing 
was subsiding. Suddenly Monsieur nearly sprang to 
his feet, as he requested: 

“Leave me alone for an hour or so and I will 
make photos from my negative!” 

The gloam of the evening was spreading its curtain 
and I had promised a friend to be in the dining sa- 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


155 


loon promptly at 7:30. I bade Monsieur au revoir 
and went to my state-room, but I could not get my 
mind off of the scenes I had just passed through. At 
the table the usual wit and humor were indulged in. 
The subject of the sick or dead room is never men¬ 
tioned there; in fact, such happenings are the great¬ 
est of secrets. As Monsieur de Lancet dined in an¬ 
other part of the saloon, I did not see him until 10:30 
o’clock, a full hour after dinner. I went to his 
state-room to see if the photos were developed. Just 
as I entered his room seeing his clock pointing to the 
time of night, the thought that the body of the in¬ 
fant may be buried in the usual way for sea burial, 
I said. 

‘‘Monsieur, come with me quick, put on your hat 
and coat.” 

“Go where?” said he. 

“To the stewardess’ room, and if the body is not 
there, then to the dead room.” 

“Mon Dieu!” he exclaimed, “do you think they will 
throw it into the sea?” 

“At 12 o’clock midnight, unless we stop them. Fol¬ 
low me,” said I, and we hurried to the stewardess’ 
room where we had left the body. Fortunately we 
met her at the door. 

“The body-” said I. 

Her lips were motionless; she pointed her index 
finger below. I knew she had no authority to tell; 
with her left hand she pushed open her door and 
pointed to the empty table where we left the body, 
her right hand still pointing below. Monsieur was 
speechless. I turned quickly and he followed, as we 




156 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


were descending - the second stairs, he asked me where 
were we going. 

“To the dead room,” replied I. On we went through 
a long hall now dimly lighted, for most of the tour¬ 
ists had retired; down the third stairs and then an¬ 
other long hall and we finally reached the room. I 
knocked. 

“Who comes there?” was the voice within. 

“What do you want?” was the next question. 

“I want to see the ship’s physician.” 

The door was opened and he came out sideways 
and closed the door behind him. 

“Are you preparing the body of that infant for 
burial ?” 

“You have no right to ask me such a question!” 
replied he. 

“Oh, yes, I have,” I contended, “I am the friend 
of the father and mother, and neither of them know 
the baby is dead.” 

“Is that your only authority?” asked he. By this 
time the doctor pushed the door open, backing into 
the room and I followed, Monsieur at my heels. We 
saw the woven chains being fastened about the big 
sea blanket. 

“Remove this suit and place the body into a leaden 
coffin!” demanded I. 

“By what authority do you command us in the 
fulfilment of our duties in the law of navigation?” 
demanded the second officer of the ship. 

“By the authority of an American citizen and friend 
to the bereaved and stricken parents who do not 
know the child is dead,” said I. 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


157 


“You mean to tell me this is the truth ?” asked the 
officer. 

He reached for a phone connecting with the stew¬ 
ardess' room and asked: 

“Do the parents know of the death of the infant?" 

We only knew the reply by the officer’s action; he 
commanded: 

“Unsheath the sea-suit and place the corpse in a 
leaden coffin. I thank you, sir,'’ said he, bowing to 
me. 

We all came out but as Monsieur and I were about 
to linger in the hall the officer assured us that his 
orders would be obeyed. 

We returned and my friend Monsieur then tapped 
me on the shoulder as he said, and again and again 
repeated: 

“Bravo! Bravo!” 

The doctor asked: 

“And the mother?” 

“She doesn’t know she is a mother,” responded 
the artist. 



CHAPTER XVIII 


SYRACUSE 

As it is the custom of our boat to sail in the eve¬ 
nings after terminating our stay at any one place, 
"nothing worth mentioning,” happened, coming to 
Syracuse, as the old woman said when she called into 
a neighbor’s house a mile away, and was asked what 
was the news at home. But before she put on her 
summer bonnet to return home it developed that one 
of her daughters eloped with a field hand the night 
before. She then remarked she did not think that 
worth mentioning—such a small matter; as her 
three senior daughters did the same; and she and the 
old man set the example when they got married. 

Perhaps it may not be out of order to say that in 
making the crossing from Villefranche a beautiful 
young widow of twenty Mays became engaged with 
a bachelor of fifty-five Christmases. This is not so 
noticeable, seeing we have on board a surplus of wid¬ 
ows, and an aggregation of bachelors and widowers. 

We had two clergymen abroad who were ready 
and willing to perform the marriage ceremony; but 
each of the contracting parties were possessors of 
large landed properties, and it became necessary to 
defer the wedding until property interests were pro¬ 
tected by an anti-nuptial contract that should be 

158 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


159 


signed, acknowledged and placed on record preceding 
the marriage. “Too much formality,” thought a few. 
It prevented a lot of fun we hoped for. It recalled 
to my mind a country marriage, in my childhood 
days on the farm; when a young man and woman 
went to a river bank to gather strawberries. The 
picking became monotonous, they got into a boat, 
crossed the river, went to a country Justice of the 
Peace (no license being required in those days), and 
were married. During their absence, two boys who 
had their ideas well worked up to the intentions of 
the young couple, swam across the river, unfastened 
the boat and hid it on the opposite side. The re¬ 
turning couple, not finding* their boat, “hallooed 
across,” but that brought no response. The setting 
sun foretold the blanket of darkness that was to fol¬ 
low: they “hallooed across” again. The night hawks 
began to be seen, the night would soon be spreading 
its sheet of darkness over the meadows. The young 
couple were both expert swimmers. Though the dis¬ 
tance across the river was quite considerable; but, not 
being possessed of as much clothing as ambition, the 
groom took the marriage certificate in his teeth, 
though other things would get wet, and they both 
plunged into the river and safely swam across. 
Walked a mile to the home of the bride’s parents, 
without a change of clothes, presented the certificate 
of marriage and knelt for parental blessings. The 
groom wearing the only suit he owned, the new 
father-in-law loaned him a hickory shirt and a pair 
of blue jeans trousers, and inasmuch as he was bare¬ 
footed, no shoes were provided for him. 



160 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


Perhaps it is better that marriages become more 
formal. Our newly engaged, seemingly enjoy their 
contractural engagement, though they are not aware 
of the fact, we have committees to attentively chap¬ 
erone them. When the moon fails to give its light 
and “the two,” seek the hurricane deck for a walk, 
one committee, a lady and a gentleman, goes forward 
and a like committee goes aft. The little nooks and 
corners about the ship’s funnels and the shade of the 
big life boats are guarded bv the third committee. 
There never was a better chaperoned party. 

About the time we made this port, “the two,” be¬ 
gan to have visions of the purpose of so many com¬ 
mittees; to which we tried to make it appear that we 
were all trying to ascend the same lofty ladder, and 
before the tour is over one or two of the commit¬ 
tees may also become so inclined. 

Syracuse is on the Island of Sicily, was once the 
greatest of Hellenic cities, and now contains about 
thirty thousand inhabitants; before the Saracens de¬ 
stroyed it in 878 A. D. it contained half a million 
souls. 

We are safely landed in Syracuse, the chief city in 
Sicily. A city founded by Archias of Corinth 755 
B. C., as legends have it. The city is built on a 
peninsula. It is famous for the fountain of Arethusa, 
connected in Greek legend with the river Alpheus. 
It has been thought from some legendary hints that 
Polichne was the original Syracuse, and that the 
plural form arose from the union of Ortygia and 
Polichne. But the plural form is common enough in 
other cases. The chief evidence for the belief is 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


161 

.ig , 

that the great temple of Olympian Zeus stood in 
Polichne, and that the register of Syracuse citizens 
was kept there. 

In the year 700 B. C. Sicily was a Greek posses¬ 
sion; from that date until 500 B. C. the history of 
the Island is accurately given. In fact, but scraps of 
history at different times are given. But from 500 
B. C. its history is well preserved. Of this early 
time some architectural monuments remain, as the 
two temples in Ortygia, one of which is now the 
Metropolitan Church, and the small remains of the 
Olympieum, or temple of Zeus in Polichne, all in the 
ancient Doric style. 

The second period of Syracuse history which be¬ 
gins with the fifth century, is far more accurate and 
more easily ascertained. It is a period of change in 
many ways. The aristocratic commonwealth becomes 
in turn a tryanny and a democracy; and it was then 
that Syracuse became the greatest city in Sicily; grew 
by the depopulation of other cities. The city spread 
to the mainland: where the tower of Archeadina be¬ 
came a factor in Sicily. After a revolution Syracuse 
again became a free commonwealth, and as the effect 
of the tyranny had been to break down old distinc¬ 
tions, it was now a democratic commonwealth. Re¬ 
newed freedom was celebrated by a colossal statue of 
Zeus, and a yearly feast was given in his honor. 

The island is irregular oval in shape, and extends 
from north to south on the east side of a fine natural 
harbor. The approach to the town from the main¬ 
land is defended by a dilapidated citadel of the time 
of Charles V, and the southern extremity is occu- 



162 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


pied by a castle named after George Maniaces, the 
last Byzantine general by whom it was held in the 
eleventh century before it fell into the hands of the 
Saracens. The streets are generally narrow. Only 
one wide street; that one crosses the island from east 
to the west. 

Besides the fortifications, the principal objects of 
interest are the Santa Maria delle Colonne (the an¬ 
cient temple of Minerva), adjoining which is the 
Archiepiscopal residence; the Archaeological Museum, 
the finest works preserved in which are the statue of 
Venus in Parian marble, and a colossal head of Zeus; 
and the fountain of Arethusa, which still bubbles up 
as clear and abundant water as ever. Its waters, 
however, are no longer in use, as the earthquake in 
1170 made it possible for the sea water to mix with 
the fresh water. 

Syracuse is the seat of an Archbishop, and the 
capital of a province, which takes its name from the 
town. 

The product of the factories of the town is drugs 
and other chemical articles, earthenware, etc., also the 
manufacturing and exportation of wine. 

Sicily is a country that has had many different 
rulers. I believe the average reader would like to 
know more of this anciently inhabited island, and will 
indulge a digression from the .story of our tour to 
give the record of part of its history. 

The geographical location of Sicily led almost as 
a matter of necessity to its historical position, as the 
meeting place of the early inhabited nations, lying 
nearer to the mainland of Europe and nearer to 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


163 


Africa than any other of the great Mediterranean 
Islands. It stands also as a breakwater between the 
eastern and western divisions of the Mediterranean 
Sea. In prehistoric times those two divisions were 
two vast portions of the Mediterranean Sea. 

Sicily is a surviving fragment of the land which 
once parted the two united seas and united the con¬ 
tinents which are now distinct. That Sicily and 
Africa were once joined we know only from modern 
scientific research ; that Sicily and Italy were once 
joined is handed down in legend, unless the legend it¬ 
self is not rather an obvious guess. Still Italy and 1 
Sicily are thoroughly distinct lands. 

Lying thus between Europe and Africa, Sicily has 
been the battlefield of Europe and Africa. That is 
to say it has been at two separate periods the battle¬ 
field of Aryan and Semitic man. In the later stage 
of strife it has been the battlefield of Christendom 
and Islam. Also the preeminent richness of its soil, 
made it a bone of contention among the nations. 

In later times Sicily was ruled by Spanish Kings, 
both alone and in union with other kingdoms. 

Sicily has been more than once the road to African 
conquest, both by Sicilian princes and by the Roman 
masters of Sicily. The connection with Greece; the 
most memorable of all, has resulted in the settlement 
of many colonies from Greece, which gave the island 
the most brilliant part of its history, and which made 
the greater part practically Greek. 

The connection between Sicily and Italy begins 
with the primitive kindred between some of the old¬ 
est elements of each. Thus the Roman occupation of 




THE GLOBE TROTTER 


164 


Sicily ended the struggle between Greek and Vene¬ 
tian. The Norman occupation of Sicily ended the 
struggle between Greek and Saracen. Lastly, comes 
the late absorption in the modern kingdom of Italy. 

The original inhabitants of Sicily came there in 
the year 300 B. C. Tradition mentions of their com¬ 
ing from Latinum in central Italy; descendants from 
Aryan families. 

Syracuse is one of the most interesting places of 
Sicily. In former times it was the most important 
town on the island, but to-day it has dwindled down 
to a provincial town of thirty-two thousand inhabi¬ 
tants. The most interesting ruins of the old town, 
and well worth a visit, are the Latomia, or quarries, 
now covered by an extraordinary luxuriant vegeta¬ 
tion; the Greek Theatre; the Roman amphitheatre, 
and the Christian Catacombs. 

At nine o’clock we weighed anchor, and steamed 
for Malta. 



CHAPTER XIX 


THE PERSONNEL OF THE TOURISTS 

After the departure of the ship, the first literature 
issued by the boat is a very neat, artistically pre¬ 
pared little booklet giving the names and places of 
residence of the tourists. Later a large and very 
perfect chart of the dining saloon is made and placed 
on the wall entering the dining room. Each chair 
has its number and the name of its occupant. In a 
general way this greatly facilitates one's memory in 
recalling the names of parties when they become ac¬ 
quainted with each other. On board a ship all voy¬ 
agers do not become acquainted, for the same reason 
one does not become acquainted with every one in 
his own town. Not because the ship is too large, but 
because there are nearly as many belonging to the 
different spheres of life on tour as you will find at 
home. A certain reservation is always necessary. 
We are travelling for the purpose of acquiring knowl¬ 
edge, as much as the attending pleasures we hope to 
receive. Should one make a mistake unguardedly 
and associate with one whose conduct makes his ac¬ 
quaintance disagreeable, the mere separation from 
this party does not entitle the offending one to a place 
in a higher sphere. The one who seeks no one’s ac¬ 
quaintance for the first few days, but unobservably 

1 65 


166 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


studies characters, as well as conduct, is not apt to 
make many mistakes in forming opinions of people 
aboard. We want to form pleasant acquaintances; 
such as we would like to have at home; especially so 
when we are to meet, pass and perhaps speak to these 
parties during an eighty days’ cruise. 

I remember being at a certain watering place, 
where the hotel keeper in the evening after dinner, 
in a large porch where his guests met for rest and 
pleasure would introduce new guests to the older ones. 
Aboard a ship no introductions are given. 

In the place where I am now writing, an alcove 
off the Social Hall, a large room about fifty feet 
square, we meet afternoon and evening, playing 
cards, seeing through the steroscope places which we 
are yet to see, and photos and pictures taken in tour, 
recognizing pictures of faces present, while the or¬ 
chestra is rendering sweet strains of classic music, un¬ 
til the hour of eleven o’clock p. m., gives opportunity 
for agreeable acquaintance and a place to avoid by 
those not desirable. Here we chat and joke about 
incidents ashore on our land tours. 

That the reader may be better able to understand 
my meanings of terms, and learn whether I am ex¬ 
treme in my censure, I here define the name “lady.” 
It is a courtesy-title for any woman of high rank, 
of good breeding, education, refinement, position, and 
culture. It is a palladium given to the highest order 
of pure, cultured, and noble womanhood. 

A false idea prevails in the minds of many women, 
who claim to be ladies, but who are not. I men¬ 
tion a few: 




THE GLOBE TROTTER 


167 


The woman whose ignorance of ethical rules gov¬ 
erning good society, does not entitle her to the as¬ 
sociation of cultured people; 

The woman who knowingly or ignorantly gives 
offense to any one; 

The woman who is a bearer of tales, whether true 
or false; 

The woman whose boisterous voice, intentionally 
or otherwise, reaches beyond her immediate circle, 
or whose jesting attracts the attention of anyone, 
whether friend or stranger, or whose eyes play that 
part; 

The woman, who by word, act, deed or facial ex¬ 
pression, imputes wrong to one of her own sex not 
knowingly bad. 

I was asked to play a game of bridge with some 
ladies. It was not remarkable to notice the beauty 
of all these ladies, for there are certainly many like 
ones on board. After formal introduction, it was 
noticeable that three of the ladies bearing family re¬ 
semblance were wearing black gowns, indicating be¬ 
reavement, all bearing the same name, and in ap¬ 
pearance but little difference in their respective ages. 

“Sisters three?” I said, on receiving the pleasure of 
introduction. 

“No,” replied the larger one of the three. “Mother, 
and two daughters.” 

One could easily understand this as a joke by a 
sister, who would like to make children of her younger 
sisters. But not true in this case; the elder one was 
proud to be the mother of her two beautiful daugh¬ 
ters in the full bloom of noble womanhood, as the 



lo8 


THE GLOBE THOTTER 


daughters were likewise proud of the youthful and 
elegant appearance of their handsome mother. They 
played bridge well, and when they arose from the 
table to circle the promenade deck before retiring, 
their ease of movement, their polite recognition of 
new-made acquaintance, and of all others to whom 
were accorded the favor of their acquaintance, 
marked these ladies as women of culture and refine¬ 
ment. These ladies are from a small suburban town 
adjacent to the great metropolitan city of the key¬ 
stone state, going on a cruise of the far east, on re¬ 
turning, leaving the boat at Naples, and remain¬ 
ing in Europe for one year for linguistic expansion. 

A beautiful young widow, having attractive brown 
eyes, black hair, classic features, neatly formed teeth 
and lips that encourage many uses, a little above the 
average height, a form for a sculptor. Her natural 
politeness, suggestive of inbred refinement, together 
with her grace of movement, makes apparent the fact 
that she is no amateur in social circles and makes her 
noticeably attractive whenever she appears. She 
ranks as one of the leaders of the better class in 
the metropolis of her native state, on the west bank 
of our greatest river; in a state that produces within 
its own borders lead and zinc that could supply the 
world for a century, and timber to supply its inhabi¬ 
tants forever in luxury. 

A young widow from the greater state, tall, also 
having classic features, blue eyes, matchless teeth, 
florid complexion, in strict harmony with a beauti¬ 
ful head of hair of a tint difficult to describe, of 
proper height, a form, the envy of a painter. 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


169 


Looking at her as the passer-by, one wonders how 
she can resist the many applications that her beauty 
necessarily must attract. She is accompanied by her 
matronly appearing mother, that suggests the 
thought, “Yes, it’s no surprise she is beautiful.” 

Eight-tenths of the ladies in tour are of this class. 
I mention these five ladies because their personality, 
as well as their appearance and their correct conduct 
and manners portray the American Queen in all her 
nobility and purity, to which we all raise our hats, 
and voice their praise. They are true patricians. 

From Boston comes a retired lawyer and his 
charming daughter. From a suburban town a priest, 
also a father, a mother and a lovable daughter, all 
of whom are of pure patrician type. 

Among the gentlemen are an ex-governor, many 
retired merchants, lawyers, capitalists and quite a 
goodly number that were born rich gentlemen “to the 
manner born.” It is really a pleasure, as well as it is a 
schooling, to associate with them. 

As I cannot place all the ladies and gentlemen in 
one class, I subdivide them into three classes, as much 
as I dislike to do so. A woman may be honest, as 
well as pure; a man may have all the ennobling quali¬ 
ties making him a mark of noble manhood, but when 
totally without culture or refinement, we cannot place 
him with cultured, refined, educated gentlemen. For 
these reasons I name the first patricians. 

We have aboard people, perhaps as good, honest, 
and pure as the first class, but they lack education, 
culture or refinement, and though many of them 
are millionaires, of the “get rich quick” variety, their 



170 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


vulgar display of diamonds on all occasions, their 
rich gowns, undoubtedly of their own selection, out 
of season as well as fashion, their side remarks of 
what they have at home and what they are going to 
take home; their occasional remarks of the size of 
their letters of credit plainly show that they have but 
lately acquired the handling of large amounts of 
money. But as wealth makes neither lady or gentle¬ 
man, I am compelled to place these people under the 
title of plebeian. 

And there is still another class that secures trans¬ 
portation on ships, and remains as long as permitted, 
or perhaps, as long as the officers of the ship fail to 
find the purpose of their embarkation. The officers 
of the ship are very diplomatic about the treatment of 
their removal; nothing is said when these objection¬ 
able characters are removed at some port. One just 
fails to see them any more. They manage their busi¬ 
ness with such a degree of secrecy that at times they 
are aboard the ship for weeks, under the vigilant and 
scrutinizing eyes of the stewards and stewardesses, 
before the true purpose of their tour is ascertained. 
This class I place under the title of Bohemian. 


THE PLEBEIAN 

To the right of where I am writing sits a lady 
with ear diamonds half the size of small bird eggs, 
easily costing close to three thousand dollars. With¬ 
out attempting to notice the number of diamonds on 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


m 


her exposed hand, one could guess they were many 
small ones or a few large ones; whatever the num¬ 
ber, it is sufficient to say that they dazzle the eyes 
in their wealth of brilliancy. Added to this she is 
wearing a gold chain as thick as a child’s finger; on 
the end of this is attached a gold case, resembling a 
card case. In her hair she has two large diamonds. 
There she sits all day. In loud tones she tells of the 
great fortune her husband made in just one big com¬ 
mercial venture. 

Another woman who is her senior perhaps by ten 
years, but not wearing quite so much jewelry, was not 
to be outdone by the former one’s exploiting of her 
husband's success she began; credit must be given to 
this one, in saying that she did not talk to be heard 
clear across the social hall, but she did talk loud 
enough to be heard and understood twenty to thirty 
feet. Whether she measured by a line, or manu¬ 
factured her story of whole cloth, I may never know, 
but one thing is true, she plainly showed that her 
husband's gathering in within five years would start 
more than a dozen large banks, and that, too, with 
big deposits as starters. 

Another one who was quite young, built like a 
quarter race horse, and who thought she had a pretty 
foot and gave me the best opportunity to judge of 
its beauty and as it was so apparent the display was 
made for my eyes, I soon satisfied her that the beauty 
of her “understanding" was not ignored; she stood 
erect and shook her skirt as though she wanted to 
straighten out the creases, then she pushed out the 
other foot—equally pretty, but I still think she showed 



17 2 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


more than she intended, for a beautiful band having' 
the appearance of gold studded with small diamonds 
nicely encircled about her high shoe top above her 
ankle (if ladies have such). She was talking fluently, 
telling how her husband and her brother struck it 
rich in Klondike. Being asked by an elderly lady if 
she was married, she began to fumble her handker¬ 
chief and become very shy all at once, and bashfully 
admitted that she was a bride of two weeks adding 
that she didn’t want it known on the boat that they 
were on their bridal tour. 

I then began to wonder if the beautiful silken gold 
band, profusely studded with such valuable gems, was 
the gift of the victim, or some other fellow. I never 
before heard of such a wedding present. It would 
look so pretty on a table in a drawing room, ex¬ 
hibiting “presents to the bride.” I was nearly hav¬ 
ing a hopeful collapse, wishing the old ladv to go 
away, in order that I could tell this “rich quick” 
bride what had fallen below its place of service. This 
ornament must have been put on loosely, for the up¬ 
per rotundity of the bride indicated good healthful 
tapering proportions that would hold any colt tied 
above where the calf is trained. I suggested to the 
old lady that the boat’s chaplain was having a meet¬ 
ing in view of church service the following Sunday. 
But the old “gal” preferred to hear of the wealth 
of Klondike. I was on the verge of suggesting my 
experience in farm life, and of my knowledge of the 
danger of tender, well fed calves taking cold should 
the covering come off. I again suggested to the old 
lady about the church, and when I saw she would not 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


173 


go, I made up my mind to commence my story of 
the farm. I was just thinking how to bring the mat¬ 
ter up when in came the young husband, and seeing 
the calf’s bridle had slipped down over the shoe top, 
he gallantly stooped over and pulled down her gown, 
and I walked out on the promenade deck and kicked 
myself three times. 


BOHEMIAN 

You may wonder how I will treat the subject of 
Bohemianism. It speaks for itself, for Bohemianism 
is the decayed branches of the Patrician and Plebeian 
trees of life, perhaps more of latter than of the 
former, and of the latter I first write. 

By way of illustration I desire to use the name of 
a good and pure woman to illustrate the effects of the 
mind and the practices that follow 7 '. Had Charlotte 
Corday lived in the days of the Greek or Roman Re¬ 
publics, the actions which gained celebrity to her name 
would have elevated her memory to the highest rank 
of civil virtue. The average moralist judges of such 
deeds by a different standard. Corday was a good 
woman, though she assassinated Murat. She killed 
this butcher of the innocent because she believed it 
was her duty. She knew that her act would cost her 
life. Her only fear of the punishment, which she 
expected from the mob, w 7 as the exposure of her 
body. 

She was pure and patriotic; if she had been on 
the dark side of the picture, she, after the murder 



174 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


of the tyrant Murat, would have been ennobled and 
taken back into society. The taking of human life 
should not be necessary for the restoration of the 
clouded. The meek spirit of the Saviour’s religion 
raises its voice against such sacrifice for purification. 
The infliction of punishment, which for wise and in¬ 
scrutable purposes, it send, but permits the offenders 
to live, as if it were, as living examples of their own 
choosing; to more safely keep clean for others the 
path from which they strayed. Freely admitting, as 
I do, the Christian precept in its most comprehen¬ 
sive sense, nevertheless, that many members of the 
Bohemian world err from the noblest and most ex¬ 
alted feelings of the human heart—love in all its ten¬ 
derness and purity, and then sacrifice their lives in 
atonement for the first error committed, because they 
think the world has. read the doings of the past day. 
Many expiate their errors in the noiseless waters, 
with hopes that the fair form will ne’er again be 
seen. There is something heroic in such a departure 
that entitles her to the admiration of posterity. Per¬ 
haps, however, it is better her name be not again 
mentioned after her parting. 

There is another branch, or rather, the larger 
amount of branches on the Bohemian tree, from a 
peculiar bent of mind, very common among many 
now, as it always has been, whose minds are devoted 
to animalism. They see nothing grand and noble. 
Strongly tinctured with everything low and sordid, 
they form notions of the impure, and it appeals to 
their fancy; they look to it as a dawn of freedom, 
and when they see this dawn overcast by everything 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


175 


but purity and goodness, they lack force of charac¬ 
ter to retrace their steps. They think not of the 
means of averting the calamities and the yawning 
abyss is always before them; enslaving their lives for¬ 
ever. They come not into this zone with strength 
enough to climb the mountains they so easily de¬ 
scended. Their first feat is irrevocable. In every¬ 
thing relating to the acquisition of the wealth of 
animalism, they glorify in all its poverty, and they 
give full range to the evil propensities of their na¬ 
ture, now unchecked by restraining hand. They 
become victims of hatred of every human being who 
evinces virtue superior to themselves. Purity is not 
the altar at which they worship, but the universe is 
the instrument of their pleasure. Permit me to draw 
the curtain and conceal this element of the bohemian, 
and show you another element descending from dif¬ 
ferent veins and spheres in life’s great multitude, that 
goes to make up the army always marching onward. 
I write of the bohemian who descends from patrician 
ancestry, many of them highly cultured. I conversed 
with one who read Homer in the original language. 
I could not speak of any part of the Iliad but she 
could pick up the thread of conversation and lead me 
on from the mandate of Agamemnon to the deliver¬ 
ance of that order to Achilles for the surrender of 
.the person of fair Briseis; but this fair bohemian does 
not believe that she left the hands of Achilles as pure 
as he received her. These are natural thoughts for 
a bohemian, a self-sustained patrician would think 
better of her sex, and if she did not she would not 
express her opinion. If this damsel were of plebeian 



176 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


blood, she would not be apt to possess any knowledge 
of Homeric history. If she did she would have no 
settled convictions as to the probabilities of the con¬ 
dition of Briseis when Achilles led her forth from 
his tent and said to the guard bearing Agamemnon’s 
order: 

“Say to Agamemnon I deliver the fair Briseis 
(this is not the exact language) as pure as I received 
her.” 

The bohemian is too often the product of circum¬ 
stances rather than choice. Once a member she cares 
not to return. She prefers the shadows of the can¬ 
vas, the alcoves, the hurricane deck, to the light of the 
Rest Room and the' brilliance of the Social Hall. 
She is an expert in all games. She can deal cards 
and give to each player certain cards. She can charm 
an audience with the dexterity of her fingers in ma¬ 
nipulation of the keys of the piano. She waltzes with 
perfection of movement and the grace of ease. She 
sings like unto a trained professional. She knows 
the requirements of appearance, as well as the man¬ 
ners and ethics of good breeding. She has been a 
student, and the brilliancy of her conversation, as well 
as the depth of her brain, leaves an attentive mind 
without a studied effort. She knows certain things 
because she cannot easily dethrone her mind of them. 
When she meets one she respects she freely unwraps 
her most inward thoughts. The deliverance recalls 
her earlier life, her childhood, her school days, yea, 
her better days. She gradually makes a confidant of 
her new-made acquaintance. She, as it were, opens 
the very flood-gates of her heart; her auditor is now. 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


177 


for the time being, her father, her most beloved 
brother. She unfolds her book of life, and she reads 
from each page, evidently as the events were at the 
various times recorded. When she related her first 
love, pure as the crystal snows, that melted away, 
under the sun of more alluring and dangerous rays. 
Perhaps one more attractive in manly deportment, 
more enchanting in manner, more chivalrous in so¬ 
cial treatment, more captivating in love-making. She 
forgets the growth of love’s first rose-buds. She ac¬ 
cepts the handsome worldling that talks sweetly and 
poisons deeply. She yields to love unrestrained. She 
becomes one of the past, and as she talked to me, as* 
she would to a father-confessor, with bedimmed eyes 
and restrained sobs, nature’s emotions beclouded my 
eyes. 

My heart bled for her, and I regretted that it 
were not in my power to pull back life’s dark cur¬ 
tain and ask her to step back to the untarnished play¬ 
grounds of her childhood fair and pure “as the new 
born star that guilds the morn.” Let us not think of 
these people too lightly, for who knows what lovely 
mother’s and honorable father’s lips she sprang un¬ 
seen, untouched and pure as the unfolding leaves of 
the first blooming of the morning-glory. We know 
not the agony of the parents for their nameless 
daughter, or perhaps the premature grave or graves 
she caused to be filled. Let the sun brighten their 
pathway to the Golden Gate. We know God is good 
and charitable; cannot we be the same? Touch these 
unfortunates lightly. They are human beings. It 
may be true that Bohemian land is not productive of 



178 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


many Magdalens, but perhaps that is our own fault 
more than theirs. 

Be kind to them, reach down the tender hand of 
sympathy; assist them upward, for they, too, have 
souls to be saved. 



CHAPTER XX 


VALETTA, MALTA 

We slowed up on the morning of February 22d, 
Washington’s birthday, and finally cast anchor to 
take on board the Valetta port pilot, to guide our 
ship through the narrow passage between the high 
stone breakwaters, protecting the pretty little horse¬ 
shoe-shaped bay within. The high wind, then blow¬ 
ing heavily from the sea into the mouth of the bay, 
was so angry that in its maddened fury, it was lash¬ 
ing the waves clear over the breakwaters. All efforts 
of the shore oarsmen to put the pilot on the ship were 
in vain. The waves were lashing perhaps twenty 
feet high against the iron sides of our boat; should 
the row-boat come too near the ship, its occupants 
might be dashed to death, and the row-boat reduced 
to splinters. Our captain, a trained seaman and ex¬ 
pert navigator, having the ship in front of the open¬ 
ing of the bay, put on full speed and shot the big 
liner through the narrow pass into the quiet waters 
of the bay around and among many other ships and 
safely cast anchor by the custom house, and then ran 
out, in two directions, guy cables to keep the boat in 
one position. In the bay we rested on peaceful 
waters, and a close neighbor, for the time being, to 
five big English men-of-war. 

179 


180 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


The side stairs were lowered and the custom house 
and port officers came aboard to examine our ship's 
papers. 

Our band began to discourse sweet music as the 
boat shot through the narrows. As the anchor was 
being lowered and the cables ran out, our band 
played “Hail Columbia.” The English flag ship re¬ 
sponded “America,” very appropriately selected; per¬ 
haps it was well-known that we came from an Amer¬ 
ican port. Though the day was young (the clocks 
had not yet announced the hour of seven), bands 
from other ships responded, until the little bay was 
full of sweet floating music. A recognized compli¬ 
ment to Americans. The hats of all nations are 
graciously lifted to the land of the free and the home 
of politicians. 

Malta, supposed to have been the island on which 
St. Paul was shipwrecked, as well as the place where, 
according to Homer, the nymph Calypso enslaved 
Odysseus—and if you don't believe it they will show 
you the cavern. It has for a hundred years been a 
crown colony of Great Britain. The noble harbor of 
Valetta, the capital, together with its central position 
in the central sea, makes its possession indispensable 
in keeping open the world's highway to India and 
the East. In this city, founded in 1566, and ruled for 
two hundred and sixty-eight years by the Grand Mas¬ 
ter of the Knights of St. John, there is much of in¬ 
terest. The interior of the Cathedral is one of the 
most beautiful in the world. 

After a drive to the Baracca Superiore, viewing 
St. John’s Cathedral and the Governor’s Palace, then 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


181 


to the chapel of bones; I was requested in the morn¬ 
ing to make a five minute talk in the dining saloon 
at 9 130 p. m., after dinner, in honor of George Wash¬ 
ington’s birthday. There were four other gentle¬ 
men likewise requested to do honor to the father of 
our country, one of whom, in the celebration of Lin¬ 
coln's birthday demonstrated that it takes him twenty 
minutes to start, an hour to talk and thirty minutes 
to put on the brakes to stop. I hurriedly wrote my 
little speech, read it over several times before break¬ 
fast and nearly finished the manuscript. My steward 
came to my state-room and informed me that Mrs. 
Smith (the Alfalfa widow) was on the promenade 
deck waiting to go ashore with me, in the fulfilment 
of a previous engagement of which she informed the 
steward I had made and forgotten. What could I 
do? Not having the remotest recollection of an en¬ 
gagement with the young widow, for sight-seeing in 
Valetta, I accepted an invitation to go ashore with 
an elderly lady who was with two young ladies, one 
a resident of New York, and the other a squatter in 
Paris, imbibing fashion, emphasizing Parisian lan¬ 
guage, and separating herself from her inheritance 
that burns in the banks of so many American heirs. 
I was nonplussed. Surely a lady would not claim 
an engagement that did not exist ? Surely no gentle¬ 
man would question the veracity of a cultured lady. 
Much less, one whose rosy cheeks refused to be con¬ 
cealed by the use of artistically applied powder, one 
whose snappy eyes penetrate, and whose soft balmy 
words, used in delineating her trouble with a former 
husband nearly induces her auditor to swim ashore. 



182 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


strike the first train, and while enroute for the former 
husband of this sweet innocent victim, to make a set 
of resolutions of total destruction of the whole bunch 
of them and carry it into an early execution. 

My experience is that it is much easier to make 
engagements than it is to break them. “If the en¬ 
gagements were made with men?” thought I, “it would 
be explainable in some way, but with ladies no other 
way, but just fib out of it.” Tell a straight unvar¬ 
nished transformation of the truth. That's the word, 
“transformation,” of the truth. If I had coined that 
word, or rather used it on several occasions when I 
used a little word expressed in three letters, it would 
have saved me a hundred fights which were about 
equally divided in results in punishments and victor¬ 
ies and have saved me several humiliations. 

I laid down the manuscript of the speech I hoped 
to deliver, to let the steward, the stewardess, or any 
other one entering my room read it. 

I hurriedly wrote a note and delivered it to my 
steward to hand to the elderly lady and her charge; 
in which I said, that I had just received a cable from 
home and I was compelled to go ashore, and perhaps 
would have to be at the wire the rest of the day, with 
regrets, that I would rather have delivered in person 
with hat in hand and a scraping toe. 

I was soon beside Madam Alfalfa, and she insisted 
on taking my arm while descending the stairs, from 
deck “D“ to the rowboat below, a distance of over 
fifty feet. Arriving at the platform on a level with 
the receiving boat I insisted that I hand Madam Al¬ 
falfa to the experienced oarsman. But she refused 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


183 


saying: she felt so much safer in the careful hands 
of a friend. How consoling! Oh, dear me! I had 
to help her. If one drop of water should be so care¬ 
less as to drop on the blue velvet slippers for carriage 
drives, walks through cold chilly Cathedrals into 
damp and deep Catacombs, up and down narrow 
streets, through long art galleries. How appropri¬ 
ate. Nit. But then, what an opportunity to show a 
pretty foot stepping in and out of a carriage, and 
how convenient to playfully exhibit a well-formed 
foot while brushing off the imaginary dust, that so 
rudely gathered on the slippers every time she va¬ 
cated the carriage. I had an opportunity to brush 
the dust off her right foot, but I had but one hand¬ 
kerchief which I had in sweet reserve for use in ren¬ 
dering salts, should the “dear one” become abashed 
or swoon while viewing undressed marble statuary, 
that was in the itinerary of our carriage drive. We 
were landed safely ashore, hired a private carriage, 
and a private guide, to avoid being with the crowd 
that was due from the ship an hour later, and espe¬ 
cially of meeting the ladies with whom I had slaugh¬ 
tered an engagement. As our carriage slowly 
ascended the steep hill, giving to the child beggars 
an opportunity to annoy us in presenting their dirty 
hands and appealingly asking: “Give me a penny.” 

“Oh, those awful poor, those dirty children,” 
whispered Madam Alfalfa, into my willing ear as she 
again tried to more tightly press the clothes that di¬ 
vided us. None but an Alfalfa widow, like this one, 
could move quite so close. “Oh, those awful poor,” 
thought I, “but perhaps rich in pure consciences.” 



184 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


As we were shown through the magnificent thea¬ 
tre containing paintings of the Masters; she quietly 
unfolded, unwittingly, the fact that she knew of my 
engagement with the other ladies, and then admitted 
that she had no engagement with me, but perfected 
the working of a wise plan to keep me away from 
that “awful old woman who was working to marry 
off those two inexperienced young girls, to men of 
brains and wealth.” There have been times in life 
when I would have said something. But as years 
roll along, we adopt more diplomacy. I wanted to 
say something. I was nearly bursting to let my 
thoughts explode. “Oh, if she were a man just for 
ten or even five minutes/’ thought I. Then I pulled 
my bridle rein controlling the vent of expression and 
let these words run through the channel of my heated 
brain: “Tact, old man, just a little diplomacy, set 
a trap for her, punish her, by feeding her a sample 
of her own food!” 

By this time we had done the theatre and I handed 
her into the carriage, then as I seated myself be¬ 
side her, she suggested: “that we do the parks, etc.’’ 
and return and go to the other places with the tour¬ 
ists of the ship. I shouted to the guide riding with 
the driver, “Now for the big Cathedral!” “My 
dear,” she over-politely said, “Aren’t we to wait for 
our friends from the ship? You see, my dear, there 
might be some false impression, unholy thought, by 
some of the ladies of the ship, who have a rude way 
of expressing themselves. You see, my dear, we are 
quite alone in this drive.” 

“If I can stand it, you ought to,” replied I. 




THE GLOBE THOTTER 


185 


“I can’t quite understand you,” she rejoined. 

The guide was now opening the door, as he ex¬ 
claimed : 

“The Cathedral.” 

I now saw the motive of this woman s action. She 
wanted to wait for the train of carriages bringing 
the tourists to view the places of interest, to show this 
nice old lady and the two young ladies that I was at 
her command whenever she touched the button. She 
was now working me physically, while my mental 
faculties were pre-arranging another fete, in which 
she was to play her part wearing the dunce cap drawn 
over the cranium that originated and planned this 
trip. Passing the Vane of one of the big Corinthian 
columns, against which a beautifully carved white 
marble statue of a departed one representing a re¬ 
ligious character of an early date, this budget of 
deceit and deception exclaimed: 

“The horrid thing—nude—how shocking! Catch 
me, I’m falling, give me some salts.” 

“Your bottle is at the carriage; you have miscal¬ 
culated,” said I. 

She was quick in wit, she understood my meaning, 
and walked spiritedly to the carriage. We then saw 
a few more sights. She again suggested that we go 
back and mix with our friends and review all the 
scenes which we had just seen. 

“You would faint,” I replied, at the same time I 
was directing the carriage to the railroad depot, which 
we reached in just three minutes. 

“Where are you taking me?” almost in a fright; all 
put on. 



186 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


“Seven miles west,” said I, “to the city of Citta 
Vacchia.” 

“I fear it looks quite improper for me-” 

“All aboard!” shouted the station man. I had to 
almost push Alfalfa into the compartment of one 
of the cars. The door was then closed and, I believe, 
locked by the station man and the little train was 
flying through the small stone fenced fields, and we 
were taking in the views of old decayed castles and 
forts, small fields green in rye, wheat, alfalfa, and 
nearly all sorts of garden cereals. 

The’ big iron gates leading into the city of Citta 
Vacchia were visible to view, we had only to round a 
horseshoe bend to be there. 

Alfalfa sighed, and her victim grunted a breath of 
satisfaction; as the train now slowed up, she again, 
in quite a demonstrative way but in a low tone, said: 

“This all looks quite improper to me.” 

“Never before alone with a man, a guide, and a 
cab driver?” asked I. “Don’t you think three men 
can protect one woman?” 

The big gates swung ajar and before the creaking 
of its hinges were silent we were in. 

It is a city of rock houses, tile roofs, rock streets 
and surface gutters, about 20,000 people. Houses 
from one to six stories high. We first viewed the 
stone houses roofed with tiling; nearby is St. Paul’s 
Bay, with catacombs extending seven miles across the 
island to the open sea on the south side. These cata¬ 
combs, fifty feet below the surface of the ground, in 
which our guide led us down steep stone steps, into a 
Grotto, having a ceiling perhaps twelve feet high, an 




THE GLOBE TROTTER 


187 


altar cut into the solid rock on which is a crucifix, 
in which Paul preached the teachings of Christ, and 
daily said mass. To me it seemed that my coming 
here brought me much closer to the teachings of the 
early Christians; which makes one more firmly be¬ 
lieve in the righteousness of a doctrine that required 
its followers to hide themselves away in catacombs, 
caves and the darkness of forests to teach and to 
worship their God. Viewing the caves by the sea 
where the apostle’s shipwreck caused him to conceal 
himself and his followers cut through an underway 
through the island, made the Grotto in which he 
preached to the natives and converted them to Chris¬ 
tianity, while being persecuted by the Romans. We 
should honor the name of the Apostle St. Paul. 

There are hidden among these unsurpassing ter¬ 
races remnants of prehistoric architecture in both cit¬ 
ies above-named. We saw cathedrals dating back 
more than two thousand years, and may have some 
misgivings as to their age. But no one entering St. 
Paul’s catacombs doubts the authenticity of its age 
and the reason given for its excavation. Chisel marks 
in the stone everywhere. It must have taken hun¬ 
dreds of men working night and day many months, 
perhaps relieved every few hours, to perform this 
wonderful work. 

A place for sleeping cut into the side walls about 
three feet high, perhaps six feet wide, some for two 
people, others for two people and child, others for 
children only. Every one hundred feet or so was 
seen a place where grain was ground by the turning 
of a round stone in a circular place in the solid rock. 



188 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


chiseled out for that purpose. One could, by exam¬ 
ining the place, ascertain the number of children in 
each family. 

May I repeat that again and again, while going 
through this catacomb, and especially in front of 
St. Paul’s altar, I was most deeply impressed with 
the sacredness of the surroundings. In former years 
I reviewed the sarcophagus of Napoleon, and now I 
saw all the sarcophagi of the bishops that have died 
on this island for the past two thousand years. Also 
St. Paul’s Cathedral in Valetta, that necessarily must 
have cost many millions of dollars to build; but in 
no place, were the scenes so impressive to my mind 
as the humble underground Grotto of St. Paul. 

To me, it seemed that I was breathing the very air 
that sustained the life of the great Apostle. It seemed 
that with a little more reverence on our part, the an¬ 
gels would whisper to us: “Yes, you have at last 
found the place.” 

“Kneel gently; for at one time this holy place had 
a direct communication with Heaven!” 

Having hurriedly viewed the scenes in Citta Vac- 
chia, we returned to Valetta to again take a last look 
at the wealth of paintings and metallic figures in St. 
John’s Cathedral. We thought this the better way 
when the big crowd was not there. 

The painting of the various figures is, to our eyes, 
correct and spirited, and the colors rich, finely shaded, 
and the blending of colors marvellous. In one of the 
panels, which represents the daughter of Herodias be¬ 
fore Herod, there is a singular expression in her 
countenance that indicates she is not dancing of her 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


189 


own will. Hovering over the dancer is a demon, 
who is engaged in moving her feet by the use of 
strings, after the manner of a Marionette figure, a 
misplaced piece of ingenuity, more defensible, how¬ 
ever, than that of Michael Angelo de Caraviggio, who, 
in his painting of the decapitation of St. John, in the 
Oratory Chapel, makes the blood trickling from the 
trunk form the letters M. A. C. In this chapel, 
formerly used for the instruction of novices, there are 
some handsome benches carved in various characters, 
of which the Order was composed. Here, too, is 
kept the great seal of the Order of St. John. 

In this Cathedral there are many Chapels and 
statues, as our guide informed us: “By the statues 
of the Order, Grand Masters on their election, and 
all knights on their promotion to higher rank, were 
bound to present to the conventual church a reliable 
gift of some kind. Thus-were derived these costly 
decorative ornaments lavished upon the great 
church.” 

A beautiful statue of the representation of the 
Baptism of our Lord by St. John, sculptured in white 
marble. The crowning embellishment of the church is, 
however, in the paintings which repay re-inspection, 
though all but smothered in the splendor of their set¬ 
tings; and the incomparable tapestry, some of which 
are twenty to twenty-two feet and six by twenty-two 
feet. One containing the portrait of the donor con¬ 
taining the two allegorical figures, one personifying 
charity as an Angel distributing alms to the poor, the 
other Victory, in full armor, trampling, sword in 
hand, on an enemy prostrate and in chains; on either 



190 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


side are the panels on grisaille containing figures of 
the Apostles, Jude and Simon. Among the marble 
statuary are fourteen figures, one of the eleven apos¬ 
tles, the Apostle Paul, the Virgin Mary, and our Sav¬ 
iour. Twelve of these statues are said to have been 
from the paintings of Rubens. In another gallery 
we were shown many paintings. The first pair of 
subjects are the Annunciation, and the next Four 
Evangelists, by whom the good news was made 
known to mankind. Next the incarnation of the 
Saviour, and the Adoration of the Magi, opposite it. 
The third pair, the Entry into Jerusalem, and the 
Last Supper. The fourth pair, the Calvary and the 
Resurrection, are from two of Rubens’ best known 
paintings. In the last pair we enter an ecclesiastical 
symbolism, the one being the institution of the Feast 
of Corpus Domini by Pope Urban IV, bearing a 
great resemblance to the famous work Raphael at the 
Vatican, known as La Disputa del Sacramento. Two 
nearby are Allegories, also wonderful compositions, 
the Triumph of the Church and the Triumph of 
Faith; the last one, which seemingly caught my eye 
more than any other painting, is Time Unveiling 
Truth, the most elaborate of all compositions, repre¬ 
senting the destruction of Idolatory. 

The sounding of the whistle of the big boat, mean¬ 
ing “All aboard/ 1 by this time has become a familiar 
melody, to those on the ship; to those on land hurry¬ 
ing to the ship, I am under the impression that it 
was not so musical. I made it a certainty to be on 
the boat at least one hour and more, generally two 
hours before the time of starting; for the reason that 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


191 


automobiles get the cramps, carriages break down, 
and street cars at times become so “bunched together,” 
that walking is safer as to making time. I made it 
convenient to send the Alfalfa widow to the boat 
with another gentleman and two ladies, at least one 
hour before I was ready to return. She insisted that 
it was so much more appropriate to return to the 
boat together, since we had started together. But I 
had so many “Cablegrams" to send. What an assas¬ 
sin of the truth some men are! But really, I went 
into the Cable office to see if the weather was about 
to change, for I do not know of any other reason I 
had for going in there, though I did not ask any 
question while there. I was looking at the picture of 
a big ocean steamer, nicely placed in a gilt frame, 
when a tender touch on my right arm attracted my 
attention in that direction. In turning about I be¬ 
held the widow and her two lovely daughters, with 
whom I should have been all day. 

“Busy all day, Mr. -?” inquired the mother. 

“Never more so,” replied I. 

How nice it is to tell the truth, and I thanked my¬ 
self for the form of her question, giving an oppor¬ 
tunity to tell the truth: 

“For this cause was I born, and for this cause came 
I into the world, that I should bear witness unto the 
truth.” 

How beautiful the quotation, yet, how often 
abused. 

The presence of this kindly lady and her two charm¬ 
ing daughters at this particular place gave her an op¬ 
portunity to believe that I had been engaged nearly 




192 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


all the day. However, I did explain to her that I 
had been around and saw many scenes that indeed 
would be of great advantage to me. 

Escorting the mother and her two dear ones to 
the ship was one of the pleasures of my tour thus far 
extended. We were on board fully an hour before 
we heard the signal to weigh anchor. 

The harbor, being nearly full of ships from many 
nations, it was nice work of a skilful navigator to 
pilot the big craft safely out, which was, neverthe¬ 
less, done. 

Out again into the open Mediterranean Sea, just 
in time to see a beautiful sunset. In order to give 
the tourists the benefit of such a scene, the captain 
rounded the island under full speed, and went a little 
more to the right than was necessary in his course to 
the next port. 

In the setting of the sun at sea, one can with naked 
eye gaze on the great orb after it becomes its own 
width from the water. This is accounted for by the 
invisible moisture arising above the water’s level. 
Even when carefully looking through a smoked glass, 
the motion of the sun in its travel is not perceptible, 
but when it reaches the edge of the water and you 
see its circular edge begin to disappear beneath the 
sea, you then notice the rapidity of its speed. You 
hardly have time to notice that the sun is half-way 
down, until its speed is so perceptible that you nearly 
say aloud: “It dropped down,” for by the time you 
finish the sentence it has disappeared, leaving a high 
red flare of light above it in the heavens, resembling 
a light reflected from something burning beneath. 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


193 


The ship now regained its true course, and we were 
soon at dinner, most of us attired in our garb worn 
during the day; for the setting of the sun kept us too 
long on deck to otherwise prepare for dinner. 

After dinner I went to my state-room and read and 
re-read the little five-minute talk I was to render at 
the hour of 9:3c). Thinking I had it thoroughly 
committed to memory, and assuring myself that I 
would not overreach the five minutes’ limit, I re¬ 
tired to the deck, after consulting my time-piece and 
finding that I had yet thirty minutes to review the 
deep blue, as well as meeting ships and watching the 
play of flags, which in ocean parlance, means the talk¬ 
ing of the ships. 

I was in the dining hall a little before the time 
for opening services, but in time to secure a seat in 
the rear of all other chairs; which I did for two rea¬ 
sons. First, when called upon to do my little talk, I 
had the advantage of walking quite a distance, giv¬ 
ing the audience an opportunity to think that my 
name was not on the programme, and that my little 
speech was an extemporaneous outburst of patriotic 
enthusiasm for our father George. The second rea¬ 
son was, I had my misgivings as to whether the first 
speaker could stop at the end of five minutes, or 
really, whether he could get started in that time, as 
I had heard him speak and knew his gift of telling 
apropos stories, which in every instance, put him “in 
mind of another one.” Judging from his past, I was 
satisfied it would take him thirty minutes to start, 
an hour to talk, and thirty minutes to quit. In such 
event, I was determined to seek the promenade deck. 



194 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


even at the danger of coming in contact of the Al¬ 
falfa widow. 

An innovation was happily and patriotically ren¬ 
dered, and with pleasing effect, by a noted divine in 
tour. The chairman then made a brief speech appro¬ 
priate to the occasion, closing with the remark, that 
good speakers of experience from many American 
States were chosen for this occasion. I was glad to 
notice that he failed to mention the names of the 
speakers. Another point in my favor. Finally the 
first speaker bowed to the audience. The first thing 
he did was to tell two of my stories. “Dead,” thought 
I. He then talked of himself. I thought then that 
he would never say anything about George Wash¬ 
ington. The only consolation I could think of was 
that if the spirit of George was there that night, he 
wouldn’t care if the speaker were taken with a colic 
and doubled up like a “jackknife” and was then car¬ 
ried out on a platter, after speaking for just forty- 
seven minutes. I thought I felt cold, as I also 
thought I heard muffled oars and big boats striking 
against large blocks of floating ice, then in my vision, 
for my eyes were then closed and the noise of the 
water whirling about the congested ice, I knew we 
were nearing the place where Washington crossed the 
Delaware. Directly the speaker drew the majestic 
picture of George in the boat. He never took the 
time for George to get ashore, when he slid his 
thread of speech down into Valley Forge. He may 
think such a transition necessary because of this be¬ 
ing midwinter. But the speaker should know that 
we were now in a southern sea. But it might be that 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


195 


he wanted to make the audience believe that it was 
he, and not Washington, who did the Delaware cross¬ 
ing stunt. I may never know. I looked at my cro- 
nometer, and learned the speaker had been one hour 
and ten minutes thus engaged. More than fifty on 
the outskirts of the audience had incautiously slipped 
out. I was carefully watching my opportunity to es¬ 
cape. I had my eye on the better of time, and when 
I saw his head turned to the 'larboard side” I, too, 
backed out and climbed the stairs. I was well satis¬ 
fied that by the time my name was reached there 
would be no one left in the audience, saving, per¬ 
haps, the chairman and the preacher who was se¬ 
lected, perhaps to offer up thanks for the audience 
being able to survive the speech. 

Climbing the last flight of stairs, I met one of the 
sisters I so gallantly escorted to the ship that eve¬ 
ning. I induced her, after the permission of her 
mother was first given, to take her to the "lovers 7 
roost,” or more properly speaking, the hurricane deck, 
where unfortunately, we found all the seats taken. 
We promenaded around the big funnels, the life 
boats, the nooks and the corners, and directly, find¬ 
ing others doing likewise, induced the thought that 
there might be vacant seats in front, which was true. 
We were soon comfortably seated, and the dear girl 
began to show me how the girls and the boys played 
hands in that part of America from whence she 
hailed. And do you know, I was really not averse 
to the explanations and the pleasure of the experi¬ 
ence in learning? Oh, this is a funny world, and 
“shoot it,” it doesn’t last long enough. The hour of 



196 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


eleven came too soon, and the signal to put out the 
lights, quickly encouraged a scudding down the 
stairs, with a dozen or more likewise affected. If I 
had been then with Madam Alfalfa, I shouldn't have 
cared so much about the lights. For if we remained 
unto the peeping of the early sun, it wouldn't mat¬ 
ter. 

“A pleasant good-night, and happy dreams,” were 
our parting words. 

We were now bound for Port Said, a distance of 
nine hundred and forty miles across the deep blue 
Mediterranean Sea. 



CHAPTER XXI 


CAIRO 

We entered the Port Said harbor ten o’clock a. m., 
passing the large bronze statue of Ferdinand Deles- 
seps standing perhaps fifty feet back of the channel 
entrance, the right hand in an easy pose pointing 
southward to the Suez Canal, which he built. We 
passed on up to near the custom house where we 
dropped anchor, and were there immediately met by 
two lighters on which we were taken to the railroad 
station nearby and loaded on a long train of very 
comfortably cushioned apartment cars, each apart¬ 
ment comfortably seating six persons, with arm 
seats and places for baggage above, and a side aisle, 
which permitted easy passage the full length of the 
car which in this instance was freely used by our 
tourists in making friendly visits during the trip. 

The baggage came from the ship on a barge and 
when loaded, we were soon off for Cairo, the Mecca 
of the east, if not of the world. Passing out of Port 
Said, a neatly constructed city built within the last 
forty years, entirely modern in appearance, we were 
soon in the open sand desert, passing swiftly along 
the Suez Canal, meeting large steamships coming in 
from the farther east, and we caught up with others 
going in our direction. Between the railroad track 

197 


198 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


and the canal is a waterway about twenty feet wide 
carrying fresh water to the city of Port Said and to 
many ships entering that harbor. 

For perhaps fifty miles we thus travelled; finally 
we left the canal which changed its course, going 
more northerly. Here we entered the lower outskirts 
of the valley of the Nile. Truly the richest soil in 
the world, where three crops of wheat, each crop 
averaging from forty to sixty bushels, are grown 
every year, cereals of nearly every variety are grown 
in equal abundance. We saw hundreds of camels 
and water buffaloes working in the fields, also horses, 
donkeys and oxen. Alfalfa, about sixteen to twenty 
inches (in March) high, fruit trees in full bloom, 
all sorts of garden “truck” green. We saw a few 
alpaca sheep, some nicely constructed cut stone 
houses, but most of the farm houses are made of dirt 
covered with a long hay or weed. Coming thus far 
from Port Said, it was a noticeable fact that not a 
weed was seen anywhere. Every field worked to per¬ 
fection, no waste land. The inhabitants, young and 
old, are all out in the fields. No churches or schools 
in the country, but a few can be seen in the many 
small towns. A more industrious people cannot be 
seen anywhere. 

We arrived at 5 :20 p. 111. in Cairo. Entering a cab 
we were soon whirled to a fine hotel behind quick 
footed Arabian horses. The extremely high ceilings 
and large airy bed-chambers are things of the Orient, 
perhaps necessities, owing to the temperature of the 
summer seasons. 

The first thing after dinner was the engagement 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


199 


of a competent dragoman to guide and protect us 
through the city. We did as is most usual, employed 
one recommended by the hotel. His charge is two 
dollars per day and expenses. He speaks five or six 
languages, pays all theatre tickets, carriage hire, ad¬ 
missions to places of amusement, railroad fares, street 
car fares, all out of his own money and renders a bill 
to us every evening. In this way we are not annoyed 
in paying out money when we do not know its value, 
dealing with men who do not know English, going* 
to places we know nothing about; we couldn't get 
through without a guide, couldn’t find our way back 
to the hotel if three blocks away. In fact, to try to 
see any city in the far east without a dragoman would 
be as foolish as to send a ship to sea without a rud¬ 
der. 

The dragoman’s first advice was: “If you want to 
see Cairo, you should first see a theatre in which na¬ 
tives are actors and musicians.” 

We told him to lead the way. After crossing sev¬ 
eral streets, thence through narrow ways, we soon 
found ourselves at a native theatre. The front of the 
house was ablaze with electric lights, the air jarred 
by the most discordant music that was ever picked 
from a string, drummed from a tambourine, or tick¬ 
led through a wind instrument for the amusement of 
those who go there for pleasure. 

There is just one thing that can be compared with 
the drumming, jarring, nonsensical noise of the so- 
called musicians. That is the female dancers who ap¬ 
peared on the stage, some of them with bare faces 
and others with faces covered with the proverbial 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


200 

mascova, a black veil permitting the exposure of the 
eyes only, and that part of the nose that divides these 
searchlights which they send out through the audience 
while they cavort about the stage, manipulating their 
hips and vertebra, in performing which they try to 
make the audience believe to be an artistic treatment 
of muscular movements worthy of a two to four 
hours’ entertainment of those who sit about small 
round tables, drinking various kinds of liquors and 
black coffee, while puffing smoke from fancy covered 
cigarettes, and whiling away hours that could be bet¬ 
ter spent in peaceful slumber even if the victims had 
to sleep three in a bed and every two of them snored 
as discordant and triangular airs as the musicians’ 
music, who were beating time to the forward and 
back, up and down, circular, semi-circular, jibjab, 
hoochekoochie, calivorious, exotic, lineberty twists of 
the dancers, who failed to get tired as a relief to 
those in front, who for more than thirty minutes in 
the first act were mentally hoping that their waist 
bands might burst, or that the jinglebells about their 
ankles and necks would lose their clappers; or, if 
nothing else, that they would slip on a banana peel, 
even if they should break their necks as a penalty for 
working themselves up to the belief that they are 
dancers, and for not saving these valuable muscles in 
reservation for more pleasing performances, for 
which they are perhaps ofttimes used. 

These dancers finally ceased their ramifications in 
search of an art they do not possess, though they 
may have convinced the knowing ones of the strength 
and endurance of their muscular developments and 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


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the applications for which they can be applied. With 
this in mind they disappeared behind the curtains, and 
immediately reappearing among the audience with 
petite silver plates while soliciting contributions for 
the gyratory movements presented, then sitting with 
those who desire their company while smoking cigar¬ 
ettes, and drinking the wines and brandies ordered; 
then back to the stage again to renew the perambula¬ 
tions of their muscles. 

Cairo is a city truly metropolitan. The largest 
and most neatly appearing automobiles we saw any¬ 
where, are here in use on the streets as public con¬ 
veyances and for private purposes. Smooth paved 
streets are the rule. 

The hotels compare favorably with the best in 
other large cities. Some have tiled floors throughout 
the house, others all marble floors; nearly all have 
marble stairways elegantly carpeted, neatly arranged 
bed-chambers spotlessly clean, and dining halls with 
tableware and menu conducive to a good, strong ap¬ 
petite. 

Arrangements to go to the Sphinx and Pyramids 
seven miles away, were made for the next day. Six 
o’clock a. m. still dark. Sunday, hundreds of large 
bells chimed their sweet music in the air, which was 
wafted to our hotel. We were again settling back 
into a refreshing slumber, when we were awakened 
by the porter informing us that it was seven o’clock. 
This was in accordance to previous arrangement, as 
we were due to start to the Pyramids and Sphinx 
at 8145. 

Hot and cold water served in pitchers. We were 



202 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


soon ready for an early breakfast. For in doing this 
city in seven days, not an hour should be wasted. 

The morning was cool and overcoats and warm 
wraps were brought into comfortable and quite neces¬ 
sary use. 

An electric railway carried us over a direct way 
crossing the valley and river of the Nile to the foot 
hills on which are the three Pyramids, the Sphinx, 
and tombs of the Pharaohs. Here we mounted 
camels. I was informed that my camel, when but 
three years of age, carried the world’s greatest act¬ 
ress and that ever since she has been named “Sarah 
B.,” a name she knows as well as she knows to eat 
when hungry. She responds to the name of Sarah B. 
and is proud of it, she being driven simply by the 
use of a small stick about like a cane, giving her an 
opportunity to occasionally turn her long neck about 
and look straight into the face of the one riding her, 
especially if her name is gently called and she is patted 
or rubbed about the ears with the end of the cane. 

It is not easy to get all the historical facts one 
would like to know of this ancient city of Cairo. I 
secured a little book of Egypt, which states that the 
city is the successor of Armu’s city, founded A. D. 
641. In A. D. 969 it was named El-Kahiro, mean¬ 
ing “The Victorious.” 

Richard Johnson wrote of this city and I literally 
copy the following: 

“Grand Cairo, was then (A. D. 500) under the 
subjection of the Egyptian monarchy and the great¬ 
est city in the world, for it was in breadth fully three 
score miles and had, by just account, within its walls 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


203 


twelve thousand churches, besides abbeys, priories 
and houses of religion. When St. George with his 
stately attendants entered the gates, they were pres¬ 
ently entertained with such a joyful sound of bells, 
trumpets and drums that it seems like the inspiring 
music of heavenly angels, and to exceed the royalty 
of Caesar in Rome when he returned from the world's 
conquest, the streets were beautified with stately page¬ 
ants contrived by scholars of ingenious capacity, the 
pavements strewn with all manner of odoriferous 
flowers, and the walls hung with Indian coverlets and 
curious tapestry.” 

Cairo, in A. D. 500, must have been many times 
larger than it is now. Its last census showed a popu¬ 
lation of only 600,000. 

We employed a dragoman, who speaks ten lan¬ 
guages and writes four: Arabic, German, French, and 
English. By carriage he took us to the Citadel over¬ 
looking the entire city and beyond into the great 
Sahara Desert, that comes up to the city suburbs on 
the south. One’s eye also penetrates the majestic 
Nile and its rich valley, having in fertility of soil no 
equal in the world, producing from three to four 
crops per year. 

The Citadel was built about fifteen hundred years 
ago. Its magnitude in size, in height of ceilings can¬ 
not be easily described. Architectural genius must 
have been in its zenith, for it was made known in 
this structure covering about two acres of ground and 
rising about two hundred feet in height. 

In the way of amusements we were driven to see 
the Khedival Sporting Club; it has golf courts, ten- 



204 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


nis courts, squash racquet courts, polo grounds, croquet 
lawns, a race course, and flats and bars for steeple¬ 
chasing. We saw no lack of amusements. 

The next day we were driven to the Zoological 
Gardens, elegantly maintained by the government, 
with beautiful winding walks, shadowed by wide 
spreading trees peculiar to the climate. Here we saw 
nearly everything usually kept in gardens of its kind; 
a thousand specimens, we were informed by the Su¬ 
perintendent, from an African elephant down to 
Guinea pigs. An orang-outang was turned loose by 
his keeper and he immediately came to us and shook 
each of our hands, first bowing as though he had just 
removed his hat (albeit he had no hat on). After he 
shook hands with each member of our party he came 
and extended his hand to me, as though he wanted 
something, muttering something that might easily be 
taken for a request for money, as the children were 
constantly doing, wherever we went. I handed him 
two piastres; he looked at them carefully, turning 
them over and over again by the index finger of his 
other hand, then with an air of contempt spreading 
over his face he flung them through the fence and 
climbed up on the aviary, looking back seemingly to 
see if his conduct was applausable or censurable. He 
was the first one we saw refuse money. 

In the Aquarium we were shown two grottoes, the 
most artistically made that came under our observa¬ 
tion; perhaps seventy-five feet in diameter, circular 
in form, said to have been made of mud from the 
Nile. They must have mixed cement with the mud, 
for the material is now hard as limestone rock. 




ORIENTAL BELLE 


Page 205 









THE GLOBE TROTTER 


205 


The grottoes are about fifty to sixty feet high, hav¬ 
ing mirrored walks, subterranean passages, in which 
a stranger could easily be lost; water flowing in every 
conceivable direction, rustic in appearance within 
and without. 

We spent one day in the Bazaars. We found only 
the natives in business in these places, as was seeming 
to us. Our dragoman informed us that there were 
Egyptians, Arabs, Indians, Sulus and Turks, but as 
they all wore red Turkish caps and being dark of 
complexion made them all look alike to me. This 
part of the sightseeing we were compelled to do on 
foot, as the streets in some places were not more than 
four to six feet in width. Some of these little shops 
occupy not more than six or eight feet fronting on the 
street and the same in depth, while others are only 
openings from the rear. People of all nationalities 
and wearing all sorts of clothing pass up and down, 
or in and out of these places. The customer must 
stand in the street and just butt out of the little stores. 
Lace shawls, fancy slippers, jewelry of all kinds, 
gowns (and some very nice ones are to be found 
here), rugs from India, and in some of these places 
rugs are being woven there. Here is the best place 
to buy precious stones of all kinds. Indian and Per¬ 
sian vendors of rugs, every variety of hammered 
brass, and any kind of curio or ornament. 

These dealers are very civil and zealous to engage 
the attention of all possible buyers. One has to bar¬ 
gain in most cases, but it is a genial process, sweet¬ 
ened by many cups of coffee, Persian tea, sherbet of 
sundry kinds, Turkish Delight cigarettes, and such 



20 6 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


like delicacies, and if the purchaser knows the value 
of the objects he is buying he can be certain of pro¬ 
curing them at their value. 

The mosques of Cairo represent some of the fin¬ 
est examples of Oriental architecture, though many of 
the older buildings have been permitted to decay. 

In visiting the mosques we were required to put on 
large slippers made of cloth over our shoes. The 
mosque being too sacred to be desecrated by the 
touch of a shoe worn on the street. 

In the various mosques we entered, we invariably 
found Mohammedans worshipping on their knees near 
some tomb, reading from his Koran or chanting in 
their own tongue some hymn. 

The Mohammedan religion was adopted A. D. 643. 

In the government collection of Egyptian antiqui¬ 
ties, in the Museum of Antiquities, we saw untold 
treasures in the antique. Of course it is an admitted 
fact that in no other museum in the world are like 
antiques to be found. This immense building is close 
to the Nile. In the first gallery we entered are the 
Sarcophagi of the ancient and middle Empire and 
the next gallery those of Saite and Ptolemic dynas¬ 
ties. Granite statues of Rameses II. We were shown 
historical inscriptions which record the exploits of 
Una under the three Pharaohs, Teti, Pepi, and Me- 
renra, also a beautiful lotus bud pillar of the fifth 
dynasty. Our dragoman called our attention to the 
statues of Prince Roheteps and his wife, Princess 
Nefert, in a glass case. The coloring is remarkably 
fresh, and they are amongst the most charmingly no¬ 
ticeable works of art in the museum. The eyes are 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


207 


made of colored quartz, rendering the figures exceed¬ 
ingly life-like. A statue nearby (I have forgotten its 
name) bears the cut figure of a body in a deep grave, 
far above appears the figure of an angel winging its 
way down to the grave. In its hand it is bearing a 
flying inscription written in Arabic language, which 
our dragoman translated into these words: 

“The spirit returns to view the body from whence 
it departed.’' Beautiful thought of the one who 
caused it to be inscribed. 

Mummies galore! The empty sarcophagus of Cleo¬ 
patra is there. During the war with the Romans they 
took out the mummy body and publicly destroyed it. 

Terra-cotta of the Grecian-Roman periods, statues 
of gods in stone, bronze, and glazed ware! 

A great variety of Scarabs are in glass cases, said 
to have been taken out of tombs of ancient Moham¬ 
medans, having been buried with them. Thousands 
are sold on the streets to Americans and are used for 
rings and scarf pins. 

One could spend a month in this place to great ad¬ 
vantage in the study of these antiquities. Spending 
less than a day in the museum I could not help but 
to wonder at its magnitude, and how the great shafts 
of granite, many weighing two to forty tons, were 
ever moved to this place from distances twenty to 
four thousand miles. We noticed that in many 
monuments there is what is called a key to life, in 
shape of a cross, but where the head would rest is 
made a loop. I noticed in Cleopatra’s Obelisk, four 
or five miles out from the city proper, near Jacob’s 
Well and the Virgin’s Tree, a shaft perhaps fifty feet 



208 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


in height, the inscription of the key of life extends 
from the bottom of the shaft to its top. The mean- 
“The spirit, leaving the body, lives for- 


1S 


mg 
ever.” 

In this building we were shown the Khedival li¬ 
brary, consisting of over sixty-six thousand volumes. 
Half of these are in European languages, and treat 
on various subjects—history, geography, and the dif¬ 
ferent sciences; the remaining consist of books in Ori¬ 
ental language. 

There are said to be in this library more than thir¬ 
teen thousand Arabic manuscripts. 

In this same building is the Arab museum, con¬ 
taining a very fine collection of antiquities brought 
in many cases from Cairo Mosques. 

Our guide took us to view the old Coptic churches, 
hidden away in out of the way corners and streets 
but little travelled. One could not find his way if 
left alone in one of these churches gone to ruin— 
no spires or towers to indicate their locality. 

In this old part of Cairo was once the historical 
city of Babylon, the castle of the Roman garrison, a 
structure almost in shape of a horseshoe, with tiers 
of seats, near which was the early Christians’ settle¬ 
ment. But little remains at present save two round 
towers and a part of the Roman wall that surrounded 
all the building to mark the spot where one class of 
history began. 

Near the wall of the church is a stone staircase 
leading down to a crypt, where, according to pious 
tradition, the Virgin Mary rested during the flight 
into Egypt. We were then shown the small church 



p 


THE GLOBE TBOTTER 


209 


of St. Barbara; it has some beautiful tiny panels in 
the screen, representing various ages. 

We went on an electric railway six miles out to 
Heliopolis Oasis to see the new Palace Hotel, which 
was six years in building and which opened last De¬ 
cember. I was quite unfortunate in not being able to 
secure the dimensions of the hotel building. We 
waited nearly half a day, took tea there, waiting the 
return of the proprietor, or the architect, of the build¬ 
ing. Some of the gentlemen present guessed the 
main building to be one thousand feet in length; my 
observation induced me to believe it not more than 
seven hundred feet, a building of the same size east 
and immediately across the street, called the Pension, 
used for families, the buildings being divided by a 
three hundred foot street. This is the largest and 
most expensive hotel building in the world. It is 
claimed that five million dollars has been expended in 
the erection of these buildings. In the entrance hall 
leading from a rotunda back to the tea room is the 
largest rug ever made, its dimensions being ninety- 
three feet in width by three hundred feet ten in 
length; a loom was made to manufacture this truly 
wonderful rug. 

Heliopolis Oasis is located on six thousand acres 
of high desert land. The object of building a city at 
this place is to have a desert pleasure city. The word 
Heliopolis means a city of the sun; this magnificent 
hotel bears the justly entitled name of “The Palace 
Hotel.” Standing in the west part of the dining 
room, which is an absolute circle of about one hun¬ 
dred fifty feet in diameter, we looked westward view- 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


210 

ing the city of Cairo, the valley of the Nile, the Pyra¬ 
mids beyond, the great Sahara Desert, which comes 
up to this building. Can any other hotel in the world 
present such a view ? This scene is nature’s greatest 
conception, far beyond man's thoughts of greatness. 
Within one or two miles of this place wolves, hyenas 
and jackals are killed in their native wildness. 

This tract of land on which the Palace Hotel is 
erected was by ancient Egyptians dedicated to the 
sun. 

The building is of the Arabesque style. The hall 
contains twenty-two marble columns, which support 
a gallery ornamented with mosaics and surmounted 
by a cupola fifty-five meters in height. 

Not far from this hotel is Cleopatra’s Obelisk which 
marks the site of that home of learning to which 
Greece sent her most famous law-givers; there has 
arisen a new town having modern shaped stone build¬ 
ings that marks the New Cairo as a step towards a 
new civilization. The rebuilding of Heliopolis on the 
spot which is Jacob’s Well and the Virgin’s Tree, a 
name given the spot where a large sycamore tree 
spread its branches and under which the Virgin 
Mother and infant Jesus and St. Joseph rested in the 
shade and drank from the waters of the well. The 
tree now standing there was planted in the 16th cen¬ 
tury from a sprout cut off the tree preceding this one, 
likewise have replants been made back to the time 
of Mary. 

The tree now standing called by the name of syca¬ 
more, is not like our American sycamore. In fact, it 
has a contrary appearance resembling an overgrown 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


211 


apple tree, its trunk being three and a half feet 
through, gnarly and knotty. It was a forked tree, 
three years ago it split, the dead half being propped 
up, the bark all gone, but by the manipulation of an 
English shilling, the keeper reached up and got a 
piece of the bark for me. Now that a new Heliopolis 
has arisen here, a new life is given that will be good 
for all time. The sacred spots of which I mention, 
being under English control, will be rigidly cared for. 

There is just one thing now that may develop into 
the ruination of this place; that is, the owners of these 
grounds and matchless buildings are now trying to 
secure from the government a concession for the es¬ 
tablishment and maintenance of a gambling house, 
that will, if established, outrival Monte Carlo. I have 
too much faith in the integrity and Christian spirit 
of England to permit a blight of this character to 
mar the ground made sacred by foot-prints of our 
Saviour and His Virgin Mother. It is bad enough as 
it is, such sports as horse racing, and camel racing 
already established. This beautiful place has struc¬ 
tures for concerts, tennis, riding, motoring, cycling, 
etc. 

On the tract of land on which are built the Helio¬ 
polis, are broad streets on which the motorists find 
their haven; the equestrians find easy footing for the 
swift going Arabian horse. On either side of these 
beautiful roads are two-story houses made of stone 
covered with plastic cement, representing cut brown 
stone, and covered with red tiling. T hese villas, cot¬ 
tages, chalets, and mansions exhibiting a variety of 
Arabesque architecture, and the marble colonnades 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


212 

with their easy turning* arches, charm and delight the 
eye of the artist. The vast expanse of desert stretch¬ 
ing away to the horizon, the moving sands, kissing 
the playful winds, suggesting the drifting of snow of 
the north or the quiet waves of the ocean, the starlit 
heavens at night or the brilliance of the azure sky 
in day, suggest thoughts of the Elysian field. 



CHAPTER XXII 


PALESTINE 

The population of Syria is about three million peo¬ 
ple. It was known in the Bible as Canaan, the Land 
of Promise, the Land of Jehovah, the Land of Israel, 
the Holy Land, or now commonly called Palestine. 
Its total length is about one hundred and sixty miles, 
its breadth about seventy miles. It is bound on the 
north by the mountains of Lebanon, east and south 
by the deserts which separate it from Arabia and 
Egypt, and the west by the Mediterranean Sea. 

This country was supposed to be peopled by Ca¬ 
naan, the youngest son of Ham. 

It was here where Moses brought his people com¬ 
manded by Joshua in conquest of the Land of 
Canaan. Destroying - twenty-one petty kingdoms. 
This was done fifteen centuries B. C. It is not my 
purpose to go into the history and the changes of 
government for the past four thousand years; suffice 
it to say that since the Christian era there have been 
ten crusades into these lands. 

It is not, however, out of place to mention the 
numerous kinds of vegetation which this remarkable 
country produces. 

After rain, the dwarf bushes throw out scented and 
labiate flowers, and cotyledons and bulbs make their 

213 


214 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


appearance, with several species of mignonette, sweet 
stock, the desert astragali, garlic, and saffron. Small 
palm trees, heath bushes with the Savin juniper bush. 
The southern part of the country is amply supplied 
with grass and a profusion of flowers; among which 
are several crocuses, ixia, narcissus, scilla, fritillaria, 
iris, lotus, arabicus, the pheasant’s eye ranunculus, 
and anemone; a creeping plant used by the Arabs as 
a substitute for tea, paronychia argentea. 

The hill country of Palestine is rich in wild flow¬ 
ers. 

The valley of the Jordan and the vicinity of the 
Dead Sea have trees, a few palms and sycamore, fig 
trees, tall poplars, willows, and tamarisks along the 
bank of the river; acacias, the mustard tree, the wild 
olive, balsam, castor oil plant, the false apple of 
Sodom, oleander, rose of Jericho, colacynth cam- 
phi ra. 

The hill country of Galilee is very similar in its 
natural production to that of Judea. 

Labiate and leguminous plants abound. Tulip, grape 
hyacinths, many species of arum and of iris abound. 

Perhaps many readers are unaware of the religious 
belief of Mohammedans; they believe in the existence 
of one God, and that He sent six great prophets into 
the world: Adam, Noah, Abraham, Moses, Jesus and 
Mohammed. Of these they consider Mohammed as 
the last and greatest. They teach that each of these 
prophets represented the will of God for a certain 
dispensation, each in turn being suspended. There¬ 
fore the Jews, they acknowledged, were true believ¬ 
ers in the time from Moses to Jesus. They deny the 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


215 


existing versions of the books of Moses, Psalms, 
« Gospels, etc. 

Moslems accept the doctrines of the immortality of 
the soul, and future rewards and punishments. They 
believe the admission into Paradise is asserted to be 
won, not by merit, but by the mercy of God. Pre¬ 
destination, however, is differently taught by differ¬ 
ent schools of Mohammedans. On entering the 
Mosque for prayer, I have seen them remove their 
coats, shoes and socks; they wash their feet and legs 
up to their knees, their necks, face and mouth; replac¬ 
ing their garments, they kneel in prayer. 

The Greek Church has a large following. It sep¬ 
arated from the Roman Church in the year 858, when 
Photius was elected Patriarch of Constantinople by 
the Emperor Michael III. They had adopted the 
Nicene and Anthanasian creeds, with the following 
difference: 

‘T believe in the Holy Ghost, the Lord and Giver 
of Life, who proceedeth from the Father, and with 
the Father and Son is worshipped and glorified.” 

The Maronites have, since 1180, belonged to the 
Romish Church. They then relinquished their Mono- 
thelite belief, but were allowed to retain priests mar¬ 
ried before ordination. They number in Lebanon, it 
. is said, nearly two thousand souls. 

The Copts are poorly represented in Palestine, yet 
they have a share in the church of the Holy Sepul¬ 
cher and are found among the clerks and other em¬ 
ployees in mercantile and public offices. They derive 
their name from Coptos, now Kobt, in Egypt, and are 
the sole representatives of the ancient race that built 



216 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


the Pyramids. By guarding their faith in the hostile 
presence of Mohammedanism they have doubtless pre¬ 
served their race and name. They are Monophysites, 
following the teachings of Jacob Baradaeus. Bap¬ 
tism is practised by them; children are generally cir¬ 
cumcised. Confession is required of all members of 
the Coptic Church, and is indispensable before re¬ 
ceiving the Sacrament. They fast on Wednesday 
and Friday, and observe the seven great feasts, viz., 
Nativity, Epiphany, Annunciation, Palm Sunday, 
Easter, Ascension, and Whit Sunday. The Copts 
are not allowed by their Church to intermarry with 
persons of any other sect. 

The Syrians are also Jacobites or Monophysites, 
but are not now numerous, though they have two an¬ 
cient monasteries in Anti-Lebanon. Their Monastery 
in Jerusalem is St. Mark. 

The Armenians are strict followers of Eutyches. 
They were condemned by the sixth Council for not 
celebrating Christmas day, and for using wine un¬ 
mixed with water. Their Jerusalem Monastery is St. 
James the Great, on Zion. 

The Abyssinians hold the same belief with the 
Copts. 

The Nestorians believe that the human Jesus was 
inspired by the Divine Christ. They use no pictures 
or images. 

The Georgians from Caucasus agree with the 
Greeks. 

The Catholic Armenians and Greek Catholics are 
reconciled to Rome. All these sects are represented 
in Jerusalem. 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


217 


The Holy Scriptures and the decrees of the first 
seven General Councils are acknowledged by the 
Greeks as their rule of faith, viz: 

I. The Council of Nicsea, held 352, A. D. against 
Arius, who denied the equality of the Son to the 
Father. 

II. The First Council of Constantinople, in 381, 
against the Macedonians, who denied the equality of 
the Holy Ghost. 

III. The Council of Ephesus, in 431, against Nes- 
torius, who denied the humanity of Christ from 
Jesus. 

IV. The Council of Chalcedon, in 451, against 
Eutyches, who denied the double nature of Christ. 
(Monophysite schism). 

V. The Second Council of Constantinople, in 553, 
against ten doctrines of Origen. 

VI. The Third Council of Constantinople, in 680, 
against the Monothelites, who held that Christ had 
but one will. (Maronite schism.) 

VII. The Second Council of Nicsea, in 787, against 
those who condemned the use of pictures and 
images. 

Images are not tolerated in their churches, but pic¬ 
tures are introduced. They invoke saints as inter¬ 
cessors, and pray for the dead, but do not hold the 
Roman Catholic belief as to purgatory. They do not 
believe in the doctrines of supererogation or infalli¬ 
bility. They acknowledge the seven Sacraments; 
baptize by immersion, believe in Transubstantiation, 
and mix the Communion wine with warm water, us¬ 
ing leavened bread. They do not forbid marriage 



218 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


among the priesthood if contracted before ordina¬ 
tion. 

The dignitaries and clergy of the Greek Church 
are ranked in the following order: Patriarchs, Arch¬ 
bishops, Bishops, Archimandrites (director of con¬ 
vents), Abbots, Archpriests, Priests, Deacons, Under- 
Deacons, Chanters, Lecturers. They possess a num¬ 
ber of Monasteries and some schools. 

The Latins, or Roman Catholics are making way 
in Palestine. They have several Monasteries, con¬ 
vents, churches, schools, hospitals and hospices, under 
French protection. 

It, at times, is difficult to carry out the itinerary 
of our course, as parties with us desire to go differ¬ 
ent ways; while at a place like Jerusalem, Damascus, 
Jaffa, Beyrout or Tripoli one can employ his own 
dragoman and go where he pleases. But through the 
country district it is otherwise. 

Syria is now ruled by three Viceroys, called Walys, 
the seats of whose governments are respectively Bey¬ 
rout, Damascus, and Aleppo. The pasha of Jeru¬ 
salem is under the Waly of Damascus, and Syria is 
controlled by Turkey. A part of Syria is called “The 
Flora of Palestine,’' because of the wonderful varie¬ 
ties of flowers. 

Among the wild beasts found in Palestine are the 
bear, the leopard, the wolf, hyena, jackal, fox, wild 
boar, ibex, roebuck, fallow deer, gazelle, the jerboa 
and mole rat, porcupine, hare and coney. 

Nearly all kinds of birds abound. 

There are too many places of interest in Palestine 
to describe here. Perhaps those parts made sacred 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


219 


by the roads and paths trodden by our Saviour are of 
the most interest to the average reader, about the 
Sea of Galilee, Tiberias, and Nazareth. Again the 
Biblical names of some of these places are not the 
same now as then. The Sea of Galilee is called in 
the Old Testament the “Sea of Chinnereth.” 

In this region, round about the shores of this sea, 
our Lord spent the principal part of His life. Several 
towns then stood upon its shores, of which the chief 
were Capernaum, Chorazin, Tiberias, Magdala, and 
Bethsaida. To write of all works performed here is 
not the purpose of this book. Leaving Nazareth, 
Capernaum became henceforth the home of Jesus. 
It was “His own city.” Capernaum is upon the sea 
coast. 

Here He called Peter, James and John, the three 
most intimate disciples of His chosen band. And it 
came to pass, that, as the people pressed upon Him, 
to hear the word of God, He stood by the lake of 
Gennesaret, and saw two ships standing by the lake; 
but the fishermen were gone out of them, and were 
washing their nets. Then he entered into Simon’s 
ship, and taught the people on the shore, and after 
he had performed the miracle of the draught of fishes, 
which so astonished Peter, James and John, the Mas¬ 
ter said to them: “Fear not, from henceforth thou 
shalt catch men;’’ and when they had brought their 
ships to shore they forsook all, and followed Him. 

Damascus is the oldest city in the world and the 
largest city in Palestine. Its population is two hun¬ 
dred and fifty thousand people. It was an important 
city and flourished during* the period of the Jewish 



220 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


Monarchy. David placed garrisons there, that Solo¬ 
mon in vain attacked. The history of Naaman, and 
the Hebrew captive, of Elisha and Gehazi, and of 
the proud preference of its fresh rivers to wa f er 
Israel, is familiar to all good readers. 

Damascus was a great city two thousand years be¬ 
fore Christ. Quoting Ezekiel’s words to Tyre: 

‘‘Syria was thy merchant by reason of the multitude 
of the wares of thy making; they occupied in thy 
fairs with emeralds, purple, and broidered work, and 
fine linen, and coral and agate. Damascus was thy 
merchant in multitude of the wares of thy making, 
for the multitude of all riches; in the wine of Hel- 
bon, and white wool.” 

Way back in the days of Julian, the Apostate de^ 
scribes Damascus “the eye of the east,” and for a 
century it was the residence of the Ommiyah Acliphs, 
and the metropolis of the Mohammedan world. Its 
fame was mingled with that of Saladin and Tamer¬ 
lane. 

Among the rocks and brushwood at the base of 
Anti-Libanus are the fountains of a copious and per¬ 
ennial stream, which, after passing Damascus and 
running a course of no great distance to the east, 
loses itself in a desert lake. 

It is truly a type of an Oriental city. Caravans 
come and go from Bagdad and Mecca as of old; 
drowsy groups sip their coffee in kiosks overhang¬ 
ing the river; and all the picturesque costumes of the 
East mingle in the streets, marble minarets, glitter¬ 
ing domes, high towers, and terraced garden roofs, 
like a field of flowers. It seems the home of pome- 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


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granate, orange and apricot, plum and walnut mingle 
their varied tints of green, sweet with roses and 
jasmine blossoms and alive with crystals springs, with 
the snowy crest of Hermon standing as a background. 
All present one grand scene of continuous grandeur. 



CHAPTER XXIII 


JERUSALEM 

Having remained here and industriously worked 
every day until late in the evening, seeking all the 
information I could, I feel that I can properly de¬ 
scribe this city as it is. 

The geographical location of Jerusalem is 31 ° 
46' 45" north latitude, and 35 0 13' 25" east longi¬ 
tude of Greenwich. This measurement, I am in¬ 
formed, was taken on the dome of the Church of the 
Holy Sepulchre. The city is twenty-seven hundred 
and twenty-five feet above the Mediterranean Sea, and 
by rail forty-one miles from the coast. The city is 
on the top of a range of mountains, constituting many 
smaller mountains, as named in history. 

The main city is on Mount Zion; and Mount Cal¬ 
vary, on which the crucifixion of our Lord took 
place, is simply a large rock on the top of Mount Zion, 
perhaps twenty feet above the earth’s surface—not 
more than fifty feet in width and perhaps not greater 
than seventy-five feet in length. It is about two miles 
from the Church of the Holy Sepulchre to the cen¬ 
tral houses on the top of the Mount of Olives. Be¬ 
tween the Mount of Olives and Mount Zion lies the 
valley of Je, in which is the Garden of Gethsemane, 

000 

✓V/V/'W 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


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where tradition has it, Jesus sweat blood under an 
Olive tree yet standing in the centre of the garden. 

The garden is enclosed with a stone wall covered 
with stucco. It is entered by a gate which is kept 
locked. Nearby is the Chapel of the Agony, in a 
cave, where the disciples slept; the spot where Judas 
gave the kiss of betrayal. The site is nearer to the 
Church of the Virgin, and is sought after by all the 
pilgrims. Just below is where Jesus went over the 
brook Kedron with His disciples, where there was a 
garden into which He entered. 

Standing well up on the side of the Mount of 
Olives, one can see St. Stephen’s Gate, the Ham 
man Sitti Miriam. On the right is the Mohamme¬ 
dan cemetery. 

The history of Jerusalem antedates the Christian 
era, perhaps nearly two thousand years. It was first 
known as Salem, the city of Melchizedek; then as 
Jebus, the stronghold of the Jebusites, the Amonites 
and Hittites, whose territories joined that of the Je¬ 
busites. The Amonite king reigned fifteen centuries 
before the birth of Christ. After ineffectual attempts 
to dispossess this people, the Benjamites were obliged 
to leave the stronghold of Mount Zion in their hands 
until King David and his warriors, with all their 
energies aroused by the over-confident defiance of the 
Jebusites, captured the citadel, which thenceforth 
took the name of the city of David. 

Jerusalem became the civil and religious centre of 
the United Kingdom of Israel and Judah. Solomon 
adorned and fortified it with buildings and strong 
walls and high towers, and erected the Temple of 



224 


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Mount Moriah, where tradition laid the scenes of 
Abraham’s sacrifice. Hither the ark was transferred 
from Mount Zion, where David had placed it. 

This city had been attacked again and again by 
revolting tribes constituting the Kingdom of Israel, 
and repeated attacks by the great nations whose ter¬ 
ritories almost surrounded Palestine—Syrians, Assy¬ 
rians and Egyptians. These sufferings the sacred his¬ 
torians attribute to the gross idolatry, which, under 
many of the kings, had usurped the place of wor¬ 
ship of the one God, who had promised to defend 
the city while it was true to Him. After it had been 
pillaged by the Philistines and Arabians in the reign 
of Jehoram, by the King of Israel in that of Ama- 
ziah, and the temple despoiled of its treasures, at 
other times to avert impending disaster, the city was 
threatened with utter ruin by the Assyrian army un¬ 
der Sennacherib; and before the siege, Hezekiah for¬ 
tified it once more and history says he drew the water 
of Gihon into it. To me, who time and again walked 
all over the place, it looks like a physical impossibility, 
as the law of gravitation does not permit any theory 
of water running up hill. This part of sacred history 
has been misinterpreted in translation from the He¬ 
brew to the Latin, Greek, or Arabic. 

Hezekiah’s son, Manasseh was overcome by the 
Assyrians, and taken captive to Babylon, on which 
the city of Cairo is now built. On his return to 
Jerusalem he repaired the city, and added to its de¬ 
fenses. Nebuchadnezzar, King of Babylon, took and 
pillaged Jerusalem. He burnt down the Temple and 
palaces were burnt and the walls were leveled to the 




A LADY FROM UPPER EGYPT. 


Page 225 













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ground, and King Zedekiah and all the people left 
there, and many of them were taken captive to Baby¬ 
lon. This was in the year B. C. 586. 

In the year 332 B. C., the city passed, without siege, 
into the hands of Alexander the Great, who respected 
its character. 

Ptolemy I, King of Egypt (in 314 B. C.), besieged 
it on Sunday, when the people, in their reverence for 
the day, would not resist, and a large number were 
carried away into captivity. 

In the year B. C. 68, Jerusalem was taken by the 
Romans under Pompey, made tributary to Rome, and 
part of its fortifications destroyed. Crassus again 
plundered the Temple, and it also suffered from a 
Parthian army which Antigonus, the rightful heir to 
the priesthood, had called in to help him against 
Herod, son of Antipater, whom the Roman influence 
had raised to a position of authority. Herod ob¬ 
tained a decree of the Senate appointing him King, 
and by aid of a Roman army took the city in the year 
B. C. 37, put his enemies to death, built a new palace 
and his splendid Temple, and otherwise adorned the 
city. Shortly before his death the Saviour was born. 

I give review of part of the different rulers of 
Jerusalem, leading up to the time of Christ, as a 
foundation to study the scenes that I for days so 
eagerly explored, and sought for such information 
as I secured. 

Herod’s son Archelaus was deposed before he had 
reigned long, and Judea now became a Roman prov¬ 
ince within the prefecture of Syria, governed by a 
procurator, who reigned at Caesarea, and left Jeru- 



226 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


salem to be governed ordinarily by its own high-priest 
and Sanhedrin. Coponius was the first procurator, 
and Pontius Pilate was the fifth. Shortly after the 
crucifixion of our Lord, Pilate was banished from 
office, on account of alleged tyrannical misgovernment, 
and Herod Agrippa governed Judea and Samaria, 
over which his grandfather, Herod the Great, had 
ruled. 

In the year A. D. 70 occurred the siege and utter 
destruction of the Holy City, accompanied by scenes 
of unparalleled horror and suffering; the Jews them¬ 
selves, distracted by internal dissensions, yet united 
in a heroic effort of self-defence up to the last The 
slaughter was frightful, and the Temple and whole 
city were burnt down, with the exception of part of 
Herod's palace, and his three towers. 

Constantine transformed Jerusalem into a Christian 
city. Julian gave permission to the Jews to rebuild 
the Temple, but they could not do it. 

In the year 969 A. D., Jerusalem fell into the 
hands of the Egyptians, and in 1077 to the Turks, 
who practised such outrageous barbarities upon the 
Christians that the indignation of all Christendom 
was aroused. The first crusade was organized, and 
in 1098 the Christian host commanded by Godfrey de 
Bouillon, entered Syria. Next year Jerusalem itself 
was besieged and captured, the garrison and inhabi¬ 
tants massacred, and the crusaders attained the end 
of their laborious warfare in the possession of the 
Holy Sepulchre. 

It would take several pages to give in detail the 
long history of this city. No city in the world suf- 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


227 


fered so many changes, so many disasters on account 
of such changes. It seemed a pleasure for the cap- 
tors to massacre those captured. These atrocities grew 
worse as civilization increased. It was in April, 
A. D. 70, that the climax was reached. When Titus 
stationed his army at the foot of the Mount of Olives, 
the third outer wall, erected by Agrippa, and suburb 
soon fell into his hands. Not even the little children 
and the tender and delicate women survived his 
slaughter. Titus himself says one hundred and fif¬ 
teen thousand bodies were found and buried, and this 
Roman general wept when he walked over the 
grounds made red by the blood of the Jews, who so 
nobly suffered death in defence of the religious faith 
of their fathers. Thus did they defend the city so 
sacred to Jews, fighting inch by inch, giving up their 
lives in every valley. 

Titus wanted to save the Temple, but his soldiers 
burnt it, while there were six thousand unarmed men, 
with women and children within its walls, drawn in 
there by the false declaration of a false prophet, tell¬ 
ing them that a great deliverer was at hand. I stood 
on the spot, which is now a grassy plot of ground 
immediately south of the Mosque of Omar, and I 
could not but think that indeed this too must also be a 
sacred spot when six thousand pure souls took their 
heavenward flight within that many minutes. 

Even the burning of the Temple and its in¬ 
nocent victims, did not lessen the wrath without the 
w r alls nor weaken the defence within. It added to 
the wild fanaticism of the Jews within the walls. 
They hoped and prayed for the Messiah now to come 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


228 

to their aid in their greatest time of need. A por¬ 
tion of the western wall and three towers were left 
as monuments of what Jerusalem was. On entering 
the city Titus found many houses nearly full of dead 
bodies. One million three hundred thousand lives 
were taken, says Josephus in his excellent history of 
that horrible massacre. Though that massacre was 
perpetrated eighteen hundred and forty-one years ago, 
during a period of religious fanaticism, bigotry, and 
hatred, does it not speak but little for Russia, in this 
advanced day of intelligence, culture and higher civil¬ 
ization? She still continues to persecute the Jews 
because of their religious belief. Russia is, perhaps 
the only country in the world, where religious liberty 
is not protected. 

One refreshing his memory in the history of this 
city and then coming here to see it, is very much dis¬ 
appointed in its appearance. You have in your mind 
a city of a million, but you find a compact city of but 
about seventy-five thousand people, half of whom are 
Jews. Moslems number about six thousand, Italians, 
Spanish, Americans, Germans, Turks and Arabs 
make up the rest. 

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is different from 
any other Christian church in the world. It is right¬ 
fully under control of the Turks. The Turks are 
totally indifferent as to the choice of Christian de¬ 
nominations. 

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre has chapels for 
religious service for the following Christian denom¬ 
inations: Roman Catholic, Greek Catholic, Arme¬ 
nians, Syrians, Copts, and Abyssinians. Each of the 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


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sects take their turn in making processions to the holy 
places and worshipping at the sacred shrines. No one 
can approach this church without a very reverential 
feeling. It is the shrine on which millions have wor¬ 
shipped in simple faith, believing that here our Lord 
permitted His body to be crucified to save the souls 
of men; that here His body lay; that here He revealed 
Himself after His resurrection. 

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre was built over 
Calvary, over the place where the body was anointed, 
and where the body of our Lord was buried and from 
which He arose and ascended to Heaven. 

Ignorant and illiterate people sometimes question 
the exact place of the crucifixion. But then some 
classes of people also question the Bible. The exact 
spot is as well known in Jerusalem as is Mount Zion 
or the Mount of Olives. There is no reason in doubt¬ 
ing the locality. In St. John’s Gospel we find the 
history of the removal from the cross and the burial 
in the sepulchre: 

“And after this, Joseph of Armathsea, being a dis¬ 
ciple of Jesus, but secretly for fear of the Jews, be¬ 
sought Pilate that he might take away the body of 
Jesus: and Pilate gave him leave. Pie came, there¬ 
fore, and took the body of Jesus. And there came 
also Nicodemus, which at the first came to Jesus by 
night, and brought a mixture of myrrh and aloes 
about a hundred pound weight. Then took they the 
body of Jesus, and wound it in cloths with spices, as 
the manner of the Jews is to bury. Now in the place 
where He was crucified there was a garden; and in 



£30 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


the garden a new sepulchre where was never man yet 
laid.” 

“Then laid they Jesus thereof, because of the Jews’ 
preparation day; for the sepulchre which was hewn 
out of a rock, and rolled a stone into the door of the 
Sepulchre.” 

It was the fourth century the Holy Sepulchre was 
built. It was partially destroyed by the Persians in 
614 and rebuilt in 630. The church, as it stands to¬ 
day, is as it was rebuilt by the Crusaders in 1103. 

The Holy Sepulchre stands in the very centre of 
the Rotunda. It lies within a small chapel twenty- 
six feet long by eighteen feet in width, built of Santa 
Croce marble. A very low doorway leads to it from 
the eastern vestibule. It is very small, being only 
six feet feet by seven feet, or forty-two square feet 
in area, of which space nineteen square feet are taken 
up by the marble sarcophagus shown as the Tomb of 
the Lord. The chapel, marble-cased throughout, so 
that no rock is visible, is lit by forty-three lamps, al¬ 
ways burning. 

The Sepulchre has a vestibule to the east, called the 
Angel’s chapel, in the center of which is part of the 
stone which the angels rolled away from the mouth 
of the tomb. The fifteen lamps belong to the different 
sects. Outside are six large candlesticks. 

I visited this holy place several times every day 
since I came here, and I cannot but respect the pas¬ 
sionate devotion of pilgrims from all nations repre¬ 
senting all religions without a sense of heartfelt sym¬ 
pathy. I am not aware how I looked at the time of 
my first entrance into the church. I do know that I 




SCENE IN THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHER, ON MOUNT CALVARY. 

The circle beneath the altar covers the hole in the rock where the tree of the cross was placed. 

—Page 231 
















THE GLOBE TROTTER 


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felt that I was near the fountain head of Christianity. 
Still, I believe that I was nearer His divine presence 
while standing in the Stations of the Cross the first 
Friday in lent. The service was being conducted by 
the Franciscan Fathers. Perhaps four hundred peo¬ 
ple followed the fathers to see their manner of ser¬ 
vice. Knowing many of the people being tourists on 
the ship on which I was travelling, and knowing that 
they religiously represented a goodly number of dif¬ 
ferent religious denominations, induced me to believe 
that curiosity prompted a large majority of them to 
follow down the street known as the Via Dolorosa, 
being the street on which Christ was compelled to 
carry the cross up Mount Zion to Calvary. I went 
along. We followed the Fathers into a court in the 
rear of two large houses. Here it w'as where Christ 
was scourged before the cross was put on him. The 
services, as is the custom of the church, is read, in 
this instance in Italian, as I learned these Fathers do 
not speak any other language than Italian and French. 
To my great and pleasing surprise every person pres¬ 
ent, saving the Turk who has charge of the church 
of the Holy Sepulchre, knelt down at the time the 
priests did. The floor of this court is of granite, but 
perfectly clean. The priests then went down the Via 
Dolorosa, to the spot where the cross was put on the 
back of Christ; a dirty street where donkeys and 
camels travel. I soliloquized: “Surely no one will 
kneel down in this filthy street.” But as the venerable 
priests knelt down there, every one of the hundreds 
present also knelt, save the Turk. I was on my knees 
ere I realized the cause of my doing so. The Stations 



232 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


of the Cross are on this filthy street. Then the 
priests turned up Mount Zion, in the narrow Via 
Dolorosa; there are places in the street not more than 
six to ten feet in width and at every station of thir¬ 
teen in all, I believe, up Mount Zion and into the 
Church of the Holy Sepulchre did every one kneel 
during this religious service as faithfully and appa¬ 
rently as devotionally as though following Christ and 
the cross. This hard stony street was made sacred 
by the sufferings of Christ while carrying the cross 
up that mountain. When I think of five or six hun¬ 
dred people, perhaps representing ten to twelve differ¬ 
ent religious denominations, meeting in a grand and 
holy religious service on these sacred grounds as in 
common communion, it seems that this is true Chris¬ 
tianity. No bigotry, no religious intolerance. No, 
this is as it should be, pure Christianity. 

Those of us who know Palestine by actual travel 
and seeing places made sacred by our Saviour’s blood, 
which causes throbs of Christian patriotism unknown 
to those who only know the Holy Land as a species 
of ancient history, there comes a glow of thought, 
that Christ truly gave His life for man’s salvation. 

How beautiful the sincerity of religious belief. 
How I honor the true Christian for such sincerity. 
Whatever one’s religious belief may be, let it be sin¬ 
cere, adhere to its precepts and devotionally practise 
its teachings. That is true Christianity, whatever may 
be the name of the religious organization. . 

Under one of the altars on Calvary is the hole in 
which was placed the cross during the crucifixion of 
Christ. I knelt down and reached in under the altar, 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


£33 


perhaps three feet, and looked into the hole, which 
is, I guess, about nine inches in diameter, roughly cut 
with chisels. I do not know the depth of the hole, 
though I inserted my right hand and arm down to 
my elbow I did not feel the bottom. A circular brass 
plate is round the hole, from which I copied the fol¬ 
lowing inscription, which also encircles the hole: 

“Virgine Maria Jesus Christus Natus est. 1717 ” 

On entering the church the first historical object 
seen is the Stone of Unction where the body of the 
Saviour was laid after being taken from the cross, 
for anointment. The stone, which perhaps so many 
millions of pilgrims kiss, is not the stone which tra¬ 
dition calls the Stone of Unction, that being buried 
beneath the present slab, which was placed here in 
the year 1818. 

There is a canopy roof about fifteen feet above 
the stone, made of marble which is supported by four 
marble columns, standing at the respective corners of 
the slab. Lamps and large candelabra hang over the 
stone, and these belong to Roman and Greek Catho¬ 
lics, Armenians and Copts, although this part of the 
church belongs to the Roman Catholics. 

Nearby, and inclosed within an iron railing, is what 
is called the Station of Mary, marking the spot where 
she stood with Mary Magdalene during the crucifixion 
of her son, perhaps fifty or sixty feet away on a 
level with the Stone of Unction and the Holy Sepul¬ 
chre, and about twenty feet lower than Mount Cal¬ 
vary, where the crucifixion took place. VV ithin 
twenty feet of this spot is the Rotunda. The dome is 
sixty-five feet in diameter. From the Rotunda one 



284 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


unacquainted can go more easily to any part of the 
church. The chapel of the Copts is built against the 
west end of the Holy Sepulchre. Near this, but 
across a hall-way, is the chapel of the Syrians, be¬ 
side this is a rocky grotto with tombs of Nicodemus 
and Joseph of Arimathaea. North of the Rotunda is 
a Latin vestibule, with slabs of marble inlaid, and 
radiating from a central stone, where Mary Magda¬ 
lene stood when Jesus said to her: “Woman, why 
weepest thou?” “And she, supposing Him to be the 
gardener, said unto Him, ‘Sir, if thou hast borne Him 
hence, tell me where thou hast laid Him, and I will 
take Him away/ ” 

To the north and ascending three steps I entered the 
chapel of the Apparition. Here it is told in legend 
that our Lord appeared to His mother, after His 
resurrection. 

To the right of this place is a Roman Altar, and 
on it a stick called the Rod of Moses; by putting one 
end of the stick into a hole over the altar, a stone is 
touched called the Column of the Scourging, to which 
Christ was bound when scourged by order of Pilate. 
This column is only exhibited on the Wednesday of 
Holy Week. 

To the right of this Altar is the Sacristy, where 
the reputed sword and spurs of the gallant Godfrey 
de Bouillon are shown. With this sword he is said 
to have cloven a giant Saracen in twain; it is the 
same sword with which the Knights of St. John are 
girt, when invested with an honorable order. 

Turning to the left, as though going into the 
Grotto, we were shown two holes in the stone called 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


235 


the Beads of Christ. Next a small chamber called 
the Prison of Christ, where, it is said, He was in¬ 
carcerated prior to the crucifixion. Going on farther 
we were led into the Greek Chapel of Saint Longinus, 
the Centurion, who said: “Truly this is the Son of 
God.” The stone was shown us on which, it is said, 
he was beheaded for preaching the Gospel. Near this 
chapel is the Armenian Chapel of the Division of the 
Vestments, named perhaps after these words: “And 
when they had crucified Him, they parted his gar¬ 
ments, casting lots upon them what every man should 
take.” 

Near this chapel there is a flight of twenty-nine 
badly worn, and, in my opinion, really dangerous 
steps to descend, leading into the Armenian Chapel 
of Helena. The massive pillars date back to the sev¬ 
enth century; the pointed vaulting from the time of 
the Crusaders. Here is an altar to Dismas, the peni¬ 
tent thief, and another to Helena. Near it is a niche 
in a low wall overlooking the cave below, named Chair 
of Helena, said to be the place where she sat when 
search was being made for the true cross. 

We were then led down a flight of thirteen steps, 
equally as badly worn and as dangerous as those men¬ 
tioned, down into what our guide called the Chapel 
of the Finding of the Cross. 

The legend has it that the Empress watched the 
digging until eventually the three crosses, the nails, 
the crown of thorns, superscription, and other relics 
were found. Legend has it that on finding the 
crosses no one present could tell the true cross. An 
estimable Christian lady, dying of an incurable mal- 



236 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


ady, was asked. She ordered the crosses brought to 
her bedside, where she touched one, then motioned 
to take it away. She touched the third, her malady 
was cured, she arose perfect and sound from her 
bed, as she said: “Yes, that is indeed the true 
cross.” 

Returning up the first flight of stairs, we were 
shown the Greek Chapel of the Crown of Thorns. 
Here, tradition says, our Lord sat while “the sol¬ 
diers platted a crown of thorns and put it on His head, 
and they put on Him a purple robe, and said: ‘Hail, 
King of the Jews!’ and they smote Him with their 
hands.” 

In the Roman or Latin Chapel of St. Mary, said 
to be the spot where the mother of our Lord, and 
the beloved disciple stood at the time of the cruci¬ 
fixion, when one of the most touching pathetic in¬ 
cidents in the Gospel history occurred: 

“Now there stood by the cross of Jesus His mother 
and His mother’s sister Mary, the wife of Cleophas, 
and Mary Magdalene. When Jesus therefore saw 
His mother, and the disciple standing by, whom He 
loved, He said unto His mother, ‘Woman, behold thy 
son.’ Then saith He to the disciple, ‘Behold thy 
mother/ and from that hour that disciple took her 
into his own home.” 

The Mosque of Omar is built on the foundation 
where once stood Solomon’s Temple. The Mosque of 
Omar is not easy to describe. Its interior is nearly 
in a circle, the floor, the walls, as well as the ceil¬ 
ing, are all inlaid mosaic. It is the most expensive 
of all mosques. Its cost must run into several mil- 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


237 


lions of dollars. It can only be entered by official 
permission of the Mohammedans. It is richly worth 
spending an hour or two in carefully examining the 
wonderful work of art wrought in its unequalled mo¬ 
saics and completeness of finish. 

Tradition has it that when the Caliph of Omar 
took Jerusalem in A. D. 637, his first inquiry was 
for the site of the Jewish Temple. He was con¬ 
ducted to the spot, then a huge mound of filth and 
rubbish, and on the east he built a wooden mosque. 
The present mosque was built in the ninth century. 
It has two cloisters, separated by an octagonal course 
of piers and columns; within this again is another 
circle of four great piers and twelve Corinthian col¬ 
umns, which support the great dome ninety-eight feet 
high. Thirty-six stained glass windows, of great bril¬ 
liancy and beauty. The arches are covered with 
glass mosaics, over which are inscribed portions of the 
Koran, as on the outer walls of the building, and 
these are dated A. D. 692. The dome is seventy-five 
feet in diameter. 

The Sacred Rock is immediately beneath the dome. 
It bears the marks of rough chiselling. Many leg¬ 
ends about the Rock, Jewish, Christian, and Mos¬ 
lem, seemingly agree. According to the Jews, Mel- 
chizedek offered sacrifice. Abraham brought his son 
as an offering, and the Ark of the Covenant stood 
here. The Moslems adopted the Jewish tradition that 
it was the Foundation Stone of the world. It was 
here where Abraham stood with one arm holding his 
son, and with an uplifted sword to sever the head of 
his only and dearly beloved son, when an angel ap- 



238 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


peared. Crossing the uplifted arm, the angel said: 
"Sacrifice thy lamb and save thy son.” 

A Mohammedan legend of the Rock is that when 
Mohammed ascended to Heaven from here on his 
divine steed, El-Burak, the rock wished to follow, but 
was held down by the Angel Gabriel, the prints of 
whose fingers in the rock are still there. 

In the cave beneath the Rock is where, as legend 
has it, Abraham el Khudr, David, Solomon, and Mo¬ 
hammed prayed. In the centre of the room is the 
Well of Spirits, as the Moslems allege, into which all 
spirits descend. 

The Mosque-El-xTksa, a magnificent Basilica 
founded by Emperor Justinian in honor of the Vir¬ 
gin in A. D. 536. It has the appearance of an an¬ 
cient Christian church, and has been converted into 
a mosque. In the interior four styles of capitals were 
noticed. They are of the Corinthian order. 

In this mosque are the tombs of the sons of Aaron. 
The pulpit at the southern end is exquisitely carved 
in wood, and is inlaid with ivory and mother-of- 
pearl. Here, legend has it, was the praying place of 
Moses; and at the back of the pulpit is a stone which 
is said to bear the imprint of the footsteps of Christ. 
About three hundred feet east of this mosque we 
were taken down a flight of thirty-two steps to a 
room called the Cradle of Christ, a vaulted chamber. 
It was here the infant Saviour was brought to be cir¬ 
cumcised; here dwelt Simon; here the Virgin was en¬ 
tertained for several days as his gu^st. 

From this room we descended to Solomon’s stables, 
a vast succession of mighty pillared and vaulted ave- 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


239 


nues. These vaulted chambers are said to have shel¬ 
tered forty thousand horses. After ascending these 
steps, we were then taken to the Throne of Solomon. 
Here, as legend has it, is where Solomon was found 
dead. 

We were taken to the Tower of David, near the 
Jaffa Gate. Josephus called it the Tower of Phasae- 
lus; it forms part of the citadel, and is yet a strong 
and conspicuous structure. We were then taken to 
the Gate of David, thence by the Armenian convent. 
Within this convent is the Church of St. James, the 
place where St. James was beheaded. “Herod the 
King stretched forth his hands to vex certain of the 
church, and he killed James, the brother of John, with 
the sword/’ 

We then went down the hill to the Jews’ Wailing 
Place. There is a wall about ten feet high on the 
west side of the place and the east side of the cele¬ 
brated wall of the Temple. It is composed of rock 
marble blocks fifteen to twenty feet in length and 
four to five feet high. The high wall is said to be 
part of the original Temple. Here can be seen Jews 
reading from the Hebrew Psalter, or some other 
sacred book, their bodies waving to and fro, their 
lips muttering and wailing out lamentations after 
lamentations. 

We were then taken to the Pool of Bethesda. The 
Abyssinian Monastery, the Coptic Monastery, the 
Cisteras of Helena, the Pool of Hezekiah, the Church 
of St. Anne, the Synagogues, and the Valley of Hin- 
nom. We went twice to the Mount of Olives, from 
which we could easily see the River Jordan and the 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


240 

Dead Sea. We went several times down to the Gar¬ 
den of Gethsemane, and looked at that wonderful 
olive tree under which Christ sweat blood. The trunk 
of this tree is nine feet in diameter in the thickest 
part, and we see no reason why this remarkable tree 
will not live two thousand years longer under the 
method of treatment as in the past. We viewed, but 
did not go into the Subterranean Quarries. 

There are many other places of interest. The 
Franciscan Monastery of St. Salvator, containing a 
fine church, orphanage school for boys and girls, a 
handicraft school, pharmacy, and printing office. 
About a hundred Franciscan Monks reside in the 
Monastery, and close by is the Casa Nova, or the 
Franciscan Hospice, where pilgrims are cared for. 
Near the Damascus Gate is the Grotto of Jeremiah, 
where tradition says the Prophet Jeremiah wrote the 
Book of Lamentations, and was subsequently buried. 
The rocky tombs, cisterns and other excavations are 
extremely interesting. It is the property of the Mos¬ 
lems. 

It was a very cool morning after a heavy rain the 
previous night, that we started in a two-seated car¬ 
riage over a stone road, that is now undergoing sub¬ 
stantial and a badly needed repair, to the historical 
little city of Bethlehem, six miles away. The fallen 
rain did not have time to percolate through the loose 
broken stone and dirt where the road was being re¬ 
paired, and it had not been long enough on the ground 
to evaporate in the air. Hence we had many bad 
places on the road to pass through in this six-mile 
drive. One of the horses was balky, that is, he was 





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willing to pull his part of the load on the nice smooth, 
hard, better macadamized road, but just so soon as 
he got into the slush, rock and mud he would stop, 
and no character of coaxing or whipping would in¬ 
duce him to start until all the occupants of the car¬ 
riage would get out and go ahead of him; then he 
would settle down and pull. Regaining the dry road 
we would resume our places in the carriage and the 
team would trot off good-naturedly until we again 
ran into another mud hole, when the experience of 
the past was invariably repeated. We always had 
visions and hopes of getting through the mud holes 
by getting the team going in a gallop, hoping the 
force of speed would compel the passing through be¬ 
fore the balky horse would have time to stop and 
settle back on his haunches. But in every instance the 
team managed to stop in the centre of the mud hole. 
Our driver, an Arab, who did not speak a word of 
English, and we had been informed beforehand that 
there are no “cuss-words” in the Arabic language, 
which left the driver no other alternative but to beat 
the horse with his whip until we would remonstrate 
against further ill use of the weapon of torture, at 
which time he would get out into the mud and lead 
out the team to good, hard, stony surface. We had 
a two-fold reason for preventing the abuse of the 
horse—the first being actuated by an impulse of hu¬ 
manity, the second connected with a method; we 
wanted the driver, as a penalty for bringing us out 
with such a horse, to get as muddy as we were. We 
were, from our knees down, as muddy as the holes in 
the road. 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


242 

On arriving in Bethlehem we had to go through a 
course of scraping and cleaning before we were per¬ 
mitted to enter the Church of Nativity. 

One of our party wanted to enter the tomb of 
Rachel, which is about midway between Jerusalem 
and Bethlehem, but as we neared it the team was gal¬ 
loping nearly at full speed, and we could not make 
the driver understand what we wanted, as he was 
adding fuel to his team as we passed the place, pay¬ 
ing no attention to my friend’s appeal to stop, but 
hallooing at his team, as he was swinging his whip 
high into the air as he brought it round the circular 
body of the affected horse, for our speed this time 
exceeded all former efforts; we could not understand 
this until the team again stopped in the deepest mud 
and the longest way through of any place we had 
passed. The horses, in this instance, did an artistic 
piece of spattering of mud into the face of the driver 
and also that of my friend who wanted to stop at 
the Tomb of Rachel. As we descended into the mud, 
I suggested to my friend: 

“Jim, it’s not more than twenty rods back to the 
Tomb of Rachel; let’s walk back.” 

Then it was that Jim said something that couldn’t 
be translated into Arabic. 

We then passed through a little village of about 
three thousand people, mostly Greeks, but all Chris¬ 
tians. The town name is Beit Jola. This place has 
dividing roads, one leading to Bethlehem and the 
other to Solomon’s Pool. Along the road we had 
just passed, on an elongated hill, well cultivated in 
terraces round the sides, with fertile gardens, vine- 




SCENE IN THE CHURCH OF THE NATIVITY, IN 
THE CITY OF BETHLEHEM. 

Covering the ground where the stable was. The star 
represents the place of Nativity of our Saviour. 


■Page 243 























THE GLOBE TROTTER 


243 

yards and fig trees in abundance. The Bethlehem 
wines have a local celebrity, and are sold freely to 
pilgrims. By the time we reached Bethlehem, wine 
would be too light a drink for those that partici¬ 
pate. 

The town is indeed a peculiarity, it is all by itself. 
Here the mother-of-pearl is wrought into many varie¬ 
ties of jewelry; the workmen sit down on stone floors, 
and use the same kind of tools, I imagine, that were 
used for a similar purpose two to four thousand years 
ago. 

The population of Bethlehem is eight thousand peo¬ 
ple. The Church of Nativity is the main feature of 
the town. For it was here, eighteen hundred and 
seventy-seven years ago last Christmas that Mary and 
Joseph in vain sought shelter in the inns of this town, 
and were forced to make a bed of hay for the sick 
Virgin in a stable. 

Coming to the Church of Nativity, one’s first im¬ 
pression of it is that it is a strong fortress of an¬ 
cient times, but on entering it we find a well con¬ 
structed church edifice; very suitable for any age. 

The Nave of the church, which is the common 
property of all Christians, has the appearance of its 
true age, that could easily be brightened up without 
taking from it any of its marks of antiquity. 

Three different religious denominations worship in 
this church: the Roman Catholics, the Greek Catho¬ 
lics, and the Armenians. 

The Nave of the church was built by Constantine, 
in A. D. 330. It is of the Basilica style. 

The church has no evidence of decay, and after a 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


244 

close inspection, any reasonable man may well come 
to the conclusion that it is good for many thousands 
of years to come. There is no reason why stone and 
cement may not last as long as time. It contains four 
rows of marble columns, of the Corinthian style, each 
of a single stone. In looking at these immense stones 
one wonders how they were placed in their position 
so long ago, when, as we have it, no steam or elec¬ 
tric power was then in use? Perhaps among the lost 
arts a greater power than we now have was then in 
use. 

The mosaics on the walls are said to date from 
1169 A. D. 

We were taken down to the Chapel of Nativity; 
it is near a large rock. The little chapel is decorated 
with numerous lamps, figures of Saints, embroidery, 
and many other ornaments. The room is encased in 
Italian marble. 

On the east side of the grotto is a recess where a 
silver star on the marble floor indicates the spot where 
our Saviour was born. Around this silver star is 
this Latin inscription: “Hie de Virgine Maria Jesus 
Christus Natus Est.” 

Above this spot sixteen silver lamps are perpetu¬ 
ally burning. Close by is a plain altar, which the Ro¬ 
man Catholics, the Greek Catholics, and the Armen¬ 
ians use on their special festivals, and decorate ac¬ 
cording to their own ideas. 

Within about ten feet from the star is the Chapel 
of the Manger, the place where the infant was laid 
in the wooden manger. 

Near by is also another altar, the Altar of the 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


245 


Magi; it is said here is where the Wise Men of the 
East presented the gifts. 

In another place is the small Chapel of St. Joseph, 
where Joseph retired at the moment of the Nativity, 
and where the angel appeared, commanding the flight 
into Egypt. 

The room here described is said to be thirty-three 
feet long and eleven feet wide. 

We were then led down a flight of stairs into the 
Chapel and Tomb of St. Jerome. It was here Jerome 
was kept as a prisoner for thirty-three years while 
making the translation of the scriptures from the 
Hebrew into Latin, Greek and Arabic. Here were 
the pathetic scenes of his last communion and death, 
which all the world has been permitted to see in “the 
wonderful picture of Domenichino, which has repre¬ 
sented in colors never to be surpassed, the alternat¬ 
ing frame of the weak and sinking flesh—the resig¬ 
nation and devotion of the spirit ready for its imme¬ 
diate departure.” 

East on the hill from Bethlehem is what is known 
as the Shepherd's Field, where the shepherds were 
keeping watch over their flock by night. “And, lo, 
the Angel of the Lord came upon them, and the glory 
of the Lord shone round about them; and they were 
afraid. And the Angel said, Tear not, for, behold, 
I bring you good tidings of great joy, which shall be 
to all people. For unto you is born this day in the 
city of David, a Saviour, which is Christ the Lord. 
And this shall be a sign unto you: Ye shall find the 
Babe wrapped in swaddling clothes, lying in a man¬ 
ger/ And suddenly there was with the angel a multi- 



246 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


tude of the heavenly hosts praising- God, and saying, 
‘Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace, 
good will toward men/ ” 

If I thought I could interest the reader in giving 
the details of these sacred grounds as they interested 
me, I would describe our trip to the Milk Grotto, the 
Cave of Adullam, the Spring of Khoreitun, Tekoa, 
the many other historical places, but I am aware that 
I have much territory to go through in my tour to 
describe, and I want to get it all in one volume with¬ 
out crowding. Again, this is only a part of Palestine. 




CHAPTER XXIV 


THE CRUCIFIXION 

Nearly two thousand years ago, here in the his¬ 
toric city of Jerusalem, a banquet was being- held. 
Then there were no electroliers, with their numerous 
twinkling lights making the night seem as noonday; 
there were no heavy tapestries and gilded ceilings; 
no marble staircases; no strains of charming music 
to please those assembled; no applause or merry 
laughter to cheer the heart and subdue the thoughts 
of what was about to happen; nor to mar the moment¬ 
ous solemnity that hung as a pall over the city. 

The feast was prearranged, where the officers of 
the law would be less likely to learn of the gathering. 
Around the table sat thirteen men. It was one of 
those nights when the angels did not venture to hang 
their lamp from the sky. The aerial elements gave 
evidence of unrest. Clouds were passing in nearly 
every direction; lightning flashed in premonition of 
the wild storm that was then brewing, and the gut- 
teral sounds of the thunder's roar seemed a dirge¬ 
like moan of the elements. The caged wild beasts, as 
though aware of the coming of some great catastrophe, 
walked their cages, lashing their tails, and emitting* 
the wild cries of the jungle, the fearsome call of dan- 

247 


248 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


ger. Hours passed thus, until the early gray of the 
morning. The trailing, ragged clouds nearly touched 
the city of Judea, and there could be faintly seen senti¬ 
nels standing guard, and groups of drunken men with 
heads close together in whispering conversations. Be¬ 
low, the low-hanging clouds gathered over Galilee, 
where could be seen unmanned boats tossing on the 
angry waters. The sea gulls and the waterloons came 
from the Mediterranean Sea, fifty miles away, the 
like of which was never before seen. The Dead Sea 
moaned and lashed the shores, as the clouds cleared 
away, and great drops of rain fell from a cloudless 
sky and mottled the waters of the Jordan. Proud 
and majestic posed the Mount of Olives, rearing her 
craggy heights as sentinel over Israel; the soldiery 
tread their beat with spear and helmet, on their low-, 
ering faces evidence of the tragedy near at hand. 

The Last Supper was long since over. The oil 
lamps were extinguished, and the thirteen men passed 
out into the cool night air. But lo, one with a gleam 
of wickedness in his eye, and treachery in his heart, 
crept stealthily toward where the mob was gathering; 
others loitered near places where wine was plentiful, 
thence on; some dropping to sleep in a nearby gar¬ 
den, others sitting drowsily along the streets. One, 
with majesty indescribable, tall, graceful in carriage, 
with beard and long hair, perfect in form, whose eyes 
and face bore benediction, slowly walked the street 
bowed in prayer. 

That painful calm that precedes a storm still hangs 
heavily over Jerusalem. Its people communicate in 
whispers. The sleepy, dew-laden trees willow their 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


249 

bows; the swooping nightingale gives place to the 
morning songster, who sings only a low refrain. 

Yes, He, the Son of Man, still walks slowly and 
yet bows in prayer. His countenance bears marks of 
presentiment, as ominous sounds of approaching foot¬ 
steps grow more distinct. He raises His head, and 
behold! the streets are full of drunken men. One of 
the banqueters, leading the mob, as he approaches the 
Innocent One, cries: 

‘'Hail, Master,” kissing the man he betrays, personi¬ 
fying the lowest depths of perfidy forevermore. 

The drunken, raging mob coming with lanterns and 
torches now knows no bounds. Wild cries of “Crucify 
Him!” “Crucify Him!” ringing through the air, and 
the drunken mob bears down upon the One who 
touched not the wine. Oaths and curses fall from 
their lips, and murder and venom seethe in their 
hearts. Again the furious mob cries, “Crucify Him!” 
He permits Himself to be seized and dragged through 
the streets, with the mob close behind, cursing and 
blaspheming Him. They bind Him by three chains, 
and scourge Him, thence take Him to a carpenter 
shop, where a large cross is improvised. He is com¬ 
pelled to carry the burden of infamy up the mountain 
side, through the Via Dolorosa, falling at times under 
its excessive weight. Finally reaching Calvary, the 
high rock on which He is to be crucified, they are com¬ 
pelled to lend Him aid in carrying the heavy timbers 
to the top of the rock, where a hole has been previ¬ 
ously drilled to support the cross when erected. Here 
the Innocent One is held and nailed to the cross. 

As I knelt on the spot made sacred by the blood of 



250 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


Jesus, the Son of God, and the Saviour of Man, the 
scene rose vividly before my mental vision. I saw 
Him—the blood trickling down from His wounds 
made by piercing with cruel nails the hands so often 
raised in blessing, or laid in gentle healing on the 
heads of sinful and suffering men. 

Nailing Him to the cross, his persecutors placing 
on His brow a crown of thorns, and reviling and curs¬ 
ing Him, I see Him look sadly down upon them, and 
hear his gentle “Father, forgive them, for they know 
not what they do.” 

He died, and “the vail of the temple was rent in 
twain, from the top to the bottom; and the earth did 
quake, and the rocks rent; 

“And the graves were opened ; and many bodies of 
the saints which slept arose.” 

He died as man that He may live as the Son of 
God, the Redeemer of Mankind. His teachings gave 
to Him the penalty of death. Darkness and light 
divide the course of time, and oblivion shares with 
memory a great part of one’s life. Job cursed not 
a day of his life, but his nativity, content so far to 
have a place in the future. 

If the approach of death brought a nearer con¬ 
formity to the teachings of Him who suffered for 
our sins, there would be more happiness beneath white 
hair, and less restraint in our daily actions. But the 
long habit of living in health unfits us for dying. 
David, in the extravagance of his health and political 
strength, grew cruel, as did Solomon for the same 
reason recede in wisdom. The multiplicity of abuses 
make many people old ere the date of age. Adversity 




THE GLOBE TROTTER 


251 


lengthens our days, as it makes restless our nights, 
but both recall to mind that we are but human, sub¬ 
servient alone to the One above. We soon forget 
our felicities, but a stroke of affliction recalls them. 
Proper sense endures no extremities, and continued 
sorrows destroy us. Afflictions finally induce callous¬ 
ness. To be ignorant of evil to come and forgetful 
of evil past, is a merciful provision in nature. 

I do not believe that those who crucified Christ were 
actuated alone by a desire to kill, but believed that, 
if in fact their victim were the Son of God He would 
have the superhuman power to resist the driving of 
the nails, the throes of pain and the agonies of death. 
Yet, these executioners feared that He was the Son 
of God; they feared His divinity. They feared pun¬ 
ishment for the awful crime they were about to per¬ 
petrate, and for that reason they did not crucify Him 
as they did others. They imposed many indignities 
upon Him unknown in the punishment of criminals, 
as I believe, to test the strength of His power. If, in 
fact, He had manifested any miracle during the ascent 
of Mount Zion or Calvary, His tormentors would 
have ceased the punishment and admitted His divinity. 
It was the fear of the performance of such a miracle 
that induced his persecutors to dethrone their reason 
in drunkenness before they commenced the torture of 
the lash and nailing to the cross. Their fear of the 
instant imposition of the wrath of Heaven was never 
over until He was securely nailed to the tree, and 
they exclaimed: 

“Now, show your power! Come down from the 
cross and we will believe you.” 



35 % THE GLOBE TROTTER 

He did not come down, but His spirit went up. 
They feared to see Him die. They returned to their 
places of drink, fearing He might come down from 
the cross. If so, they would claim complete dethrone¬ 
ment of reason in palliation for what they had done. 
Then they skulked away as in the nothingness of the 
night. 

In vain do individuals hope for immortality, as 
would the vain and the conceited like to perpetuate 
their earthly sphere in Heaven. 

There is nothing immortal but immortality. What¬ 
ever has no beginning may not have any end—which 
is peculiar of that necessary essence that cannot de¬ 
stroy itself. The perfection of Christian immortality 
eliminates all earthly glory. It is in the expectation of 
a better world that we, with constanst obedience and 
patience, enjoy this life; yet, in our most sincere medi¬ 
tations, do we fear death and all its attending uncer¬ 
tainties. When my thoughts lead me to the knowledge 
of the many parts composing the human body, and 
know, upon what tender filaments that fabric hangs, 
and of the almost countless paths leading to the gate 
of death, I thank God for permitting us to live unto 
old age. Not alone the visitation of diseases innum¬ 
erable, the artificial instruments of death, too often in 
the possession of those of diseased minds and those 
of wicked heart, always bent on human destruction, 
from which the penalty of the laws of the land for 
the perpetration of the crime, alone protect us; the 
dangers of war, accident in transit, the manipulation 
of electric wires, and electrical machinery—and again 
when we consider that there is enough electricity in 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


253 


every hundred square feet of air to take one’s life, 
we have reason for such fear. 

May we not thank God for the protection He gives 
us, and for permitting us to live? Yet, there is a 
time when happiness extends the hand to death, and 
they go on in peace together. Death delivers the 
peaceful soul within the Gate, and then returns for 
another. But this is the death of the ordinary being. 
It is not the death of the Son. He went to sleep 
on the cross, and slumbered in the sepulchre, until 
the angels rolled back the rock and awoke Him, and 
with the angels His body and soul took its flight to 
Heaven. How beautiful the thought, how perfect 
the transition. 




CHAPTER XXV 


JAFFA 

Arriving in Jaffa Sunday morning, but too late 
i for the early train to Jerusalem, I secured a drago¬ 
man and a carriage and drove about one of the most 
ancient and surely one of the most filthy cities in the 
world. Being weary of sights of poverty and the 
annoyance of beggars on every side, I directed my 
dragoman to take me to a Christian church. He did 
so. We entered a small chapel owned and used by 
The London Society for promoting Christianity 
among the Jews. The services were in the usual 
Episcopal form, characteristic of the church. I saw 
but two Jews worshipping. In my flight of thought, I 
wondered if this is best? I asked myself if a certain 
amount of missionary money is to be expended every 
year in the advancement of Christianity, is this the 
better way? Is this the place, among these Jews, 
themselves true believers in a God who was the only 
God until the coming of Christ, the Son of God, the 
‘ Father? God called the Jews “the dearly beloved of 
my soul/’ “beloved for the Father’s sake.” God 
loved them “with an everlasting love.” Salvation is 
of the Jews. Salvation was first intended for the 
Jews, first announced for them, first thought of for 
them, first preached by them, and first attested by their 

254 



ARABIAN SCHOOL. 








THE GLOBE TROTTER 


255 


blood. The first converts, the first missionaries, the 
first martyrs, were branches of the Jewish root. Christ 
was a Jew. He was the unaccepted “King of the 
Jews.” What is meant in the Book of Books, which 
says: “All Israel shall be saved?” 

I am a practical Christian. Perhaps not as good 
a one as I should be, but just an average man of the 
world, who pays his part to his pastor to teach the 
Gospel to every creature. I am a firm believer in the 
Divinity of Christ and all His teachings. I am not a 
bigot. I never undertake to deny history that is un¬ 
deniable. I am a firm believer in the Bible. I inject 
these points into this article, not to edify or exalt 
my own position, but to show that I am writing from 
a purely historical standpoint that cannot be contra¬ 
dicted in sacred history. 

Nor am I writing in defence of the Jew, for no 
people in the world are so able to care for themselves. 
But as the Jews are sincere believers in a God, the 
only God before the coming of the Son, why not use 
money paid for missionary purpose in proselyting 
those who are not believers in any God? These non¬ 
believers are at home, in England, America and every¬ 
where. 

As to what extent conversions in this way have 
been accomplished, I do not know. Although this was 
a beautiful Sunday morning, there were but two 
Jews in the church. The Jews that I met here are 
educated and refined in manners and seemingly in 
good financial condition. As a Christian, I have my 
well-defined belief. No one can read of the early 
history of the Jews who is unprejudiced but will have 



256 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


to admit that they are a great people. That they 
wrongfully crucified the Saviour, I admit; that they 
persecuted the early Christians, is historically true; 
but what can be said of the Christians as to their 
treatment of the Jews for the past eighteen centuries? 
They have not only killed one, but tens of thousands 
of them. They have cruelly butchered innocent women 
and children in the public streets because of their 
religious faith. Their suffering for their faith shows 
to me their true belief in the teachings of their fore¬ 
fathers. I, for one, honor them for their adherence 
to their faith. For their cruelty to Him on Mount 
Calvary, nearly two thousand years ago, isn't it time 
to forgive? Every true Christian heart must say yes. 
If the Jews want to become Christians, well and good; 
so let it be. Send your missionaries to convert the 
heathen, or your own heathen at home, and the non¬ 
believers of a God. 

Salvation was first intended for the Jews; first 
preached by them, and first attested by their blood. 
The first converts, the first missionaries, the first mar¬ 
tyrs were Jews. The Jewish root bears the Gentile 
branches—not the Gentile branches the Jewish root. 
The irrevocable decree stands unaffected by the lapse 
of time or the strides of centuries, but is verified alike 
by the testimony of individuals and by the history of 
nations: “Blessed is he that blesseth thee, and cursed 
is he that curseth thee." 

The Jews are firm believers in a God, yet because 
they do not believe in the divinity of Christ, they are 
proscribed and persecuted the world over. The Sa¬ 
viour was a Jew, and God said of the Jews: “Dearly 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


257 


beloved of My soul.” Again He said of them: “Be¬ 
loved for thy Father’s sake.” 

The divine command to “preach the gospel to every 
creature,” can be fully performed without trying to 
convert Jews to Christianity. 

After church services a drive through this, one of 
the oldest cities of the world, revealed many historical 
places. It is not, figuratively speaking, a city of this 
age, but of many centuries past. It will so remain 
while the Turkish government owns and governs it. 

At noonday lunch at a leading hotel, a big Turk 
sat opposite me at the table. It appeared to me that 
he was making a studied effort to imitate the noise 
of a camel while eating green clover. I had a better 
appetite for dinner that evening. 

Our ship is in this port for the third time, this time 
six days, awaiting the return of inland tourists to 
Damascus, Jerusalem and other places in Palestine. 
I have just returned from Jerusalem and Bethlehem, 
of which places I will write later. 

It is of this place I now want to write, while sitting 
aft in an alcove of the boat, after viewing the big sun 
come up out of the blue Mediterranean, and while one 
sweep of the eye takes in everything in view, recalling 
to my mind historical facts almost dormant for want 
of use, of which a voyage like this brings to the sur¬ 
face. However, it is of this place and the incidents 
occurring here that most attract the use of my pen, 
not so much for the edification of the reader, as to 
call his attention to some very dormant features of 
our own government. 

In front of this port there are now resting on the 



258 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


water ships of many nations—not an American ship. 
I have not seen our flag since I left home, more than 
two months ago, though I have been travelling all 
the time. 

Jaffa (excepting Beyrout) is the most easterly port 
we reach on the Mediterranean Sea. It is the largest 
seaport in Turkey, and the most dangerous seaport 
in the world. From here more citric fruits are shipped 
than from any other port. While it is one of the 
most important ports, yet it is fraught with more 
danger to egress and ingress than any city on the 
globe. The city is built on a high hill, or rock, that as 
a promontory projects out into the sea, through 
which rocks of visible magnitude and high promi¬ 
nence the lighters and life-boats go to meet and trans¬ 
port passengers, baggage and freight to and from 
the ships to the city. 

On entering this harbor, the ship makes a half¬ 
circle, leaving her bow toward the open sea and care¬ 
fully keeping full steam on while remaining in port, 
ready at any moment, in event of storm or heavy wind 
seaward, to go out into the open sea for safety, to 
avoid the resistless waves that would drive an unpro¬ 
tected ship to the never failing destructive rocks 
nearby. No ship anchors less than a mile from the 
shore. Eleven days ago we anchored here for the 
first time in this port, to find an English liner high 
and fast on the rocks and the great, merciless waves 
lashing against its defenceless iron sides. As we 
passed hard by the big boat, we saw that most of the 
passengers had been removed ashore in life-boats; 
the baggage and freight were being removed on light- 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


259 


ers. On inquiry as to the cause of the disaster, we 
learned that the boat went to anchor in the usual place 
of safety, but carelessly did not keep up steam. Dur¬ 
ing the night a heavy gale from the sea drove the 
boat, while dragging her anchor, onto the destructive 
rocks before steam could be put on to go to sea. The 
destroyed ship has the appearance of being lifted up 
on the rocks, over which there are scarcely fifteen feet 
of water. The ship is of about 15,000 tons displace¬ 
ment, and could only safely pass over water of thirty 
feet depth. 

Turkey is not noted for enterprises or railroads. 
One railroad, beginning here, extends to Jerusalem, 
a distance of fifty-three miles, the first thirty miles 
through a beautiful tableland of untold richness of 
soil and orange groves laden with golden fruit that 
attracts the attention of all tourists and pilgrims visit¬ 
ing the Holy Land. Another railroad runs from Bey- 
rout to Damascus and Tiberias. Damascus, Jerusa¬ 
lem and Bethlehem are on the high points of the near¬ 
by mountains. 

I am informed that it frequently happens in this 
port that incoming ships are compelled to wait for 
days for the calming of the winds to allow the land¬ 
ing of its passengers and freight, while outgoing boats 
are similarly affected in embarking their loads. 

The name “Jaffa,” which is an Arabic word, means 
in English “beautiful.” From a picturesque point of 
view, from where I am now writing, the city is appro¬ 
priately named. Here the name ends. 

Jaffa dates from the fifteenth century, B. C., as a 
Canaanite port. Some classic scholars of the ancient 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


SLQO 

schools claimed the derivation of the name to be 
from Iopa, daughter of HloIus. In Pliny’s time, the 
chains were still shown with which she was bound to 
the rocks for the food of the cruel monster afterwards 
slain by Perseus. 

In the Biblical history of Jaffa we find that in Solo¬ 
mon’s time he shipped cedar and pinewood from Leba¬ 
non to Joppa (Jaffa), thence on to Jerusalem. Dur¬ 
ing the warring period that elapsed between the last 
prophets and the coming of the Saviour, Jaffa was a 
place of great importance, and was regarded as a 
key to this part of the world. Jaffa was under for¬ 
eign control at the time of the Maccabean wars, a 
Jewish minority being tyrannized over by the Greeks, 
who were continually reinforced from their fleets. 
A large number of Jews were drowned by the Greeks, 
and in revenge Judas Maccabeus attacked the town 
and burnt the shipping with all on board. 

When Pompey invaded Syria, in B. C. 63, Jaffa was 
annexed to that province. It was subsequently part 
of the possessions of Herod the Great and of Arche- 
laus, until, with all Palestine, it became a part of the 
Roman province of Syria. 

In the last Jewish war, Josephus states that 80,000 
inhabitants were cruelly slain by Cestius. The city 
was rebuilt by pirates, who ravaged the neighboring 
coast from Cilicia to Egypt. For this Vespasian again 
destroyed the town. Thus most endlessly the vicissi¬ 
tudes of this city pass to the present time. Having 
recalled to the mind of the reader the ancient, as 
well as the present, of one of the most noted cities 
in the world’s history, I now desire to present some 




ARABIAN BELLE 


Page 261 














THE GLOBE TROTTER 


261 


incidents that occurred here this morning. It is quite 
unnecessary to say to those who know me best that I 
am an early riser; nor can I truthfully say that the 
beauties of nature, best seen in early morning, were 
the inspiring cause this morning. Perhaps the habit 
contracted the first fifteen years of life on our old 
farm, where we were in the fields ere the sun kissed 
the morning dews, has left with me a habit that will 
trail my path until the life-lamp shall cease to light 
my journey. A fellow traveller accuses me of get¬ 
ting up early to see the sun come up out of the blue 
sea. He is wrong, though I can never tire of such a 
scene; nor can I ever grow weary of seeing it set in 
the great beyond. Having suffered severely for the 
past ten days from a cold that sticks to me with 
the tenacity of a human “sponge” to the man who has 
no better sense than to give him credit, has not left 
my brain particularly inclined to properly describe 
the rising and setting of the sun in the broad expanse 
of the great blue sea. I was walking the deck this 
morning when the sun arose and reflected its golden 
light on the rippling waves of the Mediterranean. I 
was making my first circuit of the promenade deck, 
when I discovered, at ease by our side, three large 
battleships flying the French flag, the flagship one of 
the largest of France’s navy, all of these ships fully 
equipped for battle. The largest of the squadron bore 
the insignia of the flagship, toward which a small 
steam launch, bearing the Turkish flag, was cutting 
the waters to reach. In passing our boat, I saw a 
Turkish naval officer in full uniform, surmounted with 
much golden embroidery, papers in hand. 



262 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


On reaching the big man-of-war, this officer quickly 
climbed the rope ladder, which was lowered for him 
during his approach. He was soon on the upper deck, 
and by the aid of my glasses I could see him examin¬ 
ing the ship’s papers, which service was quickly done, 
formal naval courtesies passed, and, with handshaking 
and a low bow, he was quickly descending the ladder 
to his own launch. A sudden turning to the right 
of the wheel and opening of the throttle brought the 
launch in a circular turn almost beneath our bow. 
When the launch was about three hundred yards 
away, the big “dog of war,” in slow succession, fired 
three of her smaller guns, that vibrated their friendly 
sounds of peace through the rock-ribbed coast and 
hills, where in bygone days the same rocks, hills and 
city received and re-echoed tens of thousands of hun¬ 
gry sounds of war, and where the hot breath of the 
cannon’s mouth warmed the waters and blistered the 
sea-beaten rocks. The echo of the last French gun 
had hardly died away until the batteries on shore 
responded in slow order three shots, greeting the 
peaceful incoming of a fleet of battleships of a friendly 
nation. 

The sun was yet less than an hour from its slum¬ 
ber, giving us more of its warmth than we received 
since we left home. I was the only one on deck, save 
a few sailors. Some were scrubbing the deck, others 
painting the big boat anew, which is done once each 
month, made necessary by atmospheric action pene¬ 
trating the iron and at the same time destroying the 
paint. 

These men-of-war came in and anchored during 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


263 


the night among the many ocean liners and freight 
boats already here. 

Just after the echo of the last gun from ashore 
died away in the distance, our band came on deck and 
played “Our Fatherland/’ so sweet to every German 
ear. Then there was an intermission, supposedly wait¬ 
ing for a response from the French man-of-war, but 
no response came. A close observation of the glass 
failed to reveal any band on its deck. After suffi¬ 
cient duration of silence was given to the flagship to 
reply, our good-humored band then sent across the 
intervening waters separating the ships the Marseillaise 
hymn, France’s favorite composition of music. The 
rendering of this national hymn was truly beautiful. 
A pause, even to a hushed silence among the members 
of our band, was noticeable; they did not speak or 
move. I was the only American on deck. I was 
standing an easy distance from our band, and was 
eagerly watching the facial expression of every mem¬ 
ber. Every eye was on the big man-of-war. I could 
now see a hurried commotion over there. Then 
I defined the reason of the lack of an early reply. 
The Frenchmen must have been in bed when our first 
piece was played. I could see the French band was 
double the size of its friendly neighbor. 

We didn’t have long to remain for response. The 
French returned to us the Marseillaise hymn in re¬ 
sweetened flavor, for none but French musicians can 
put the true inspiring notes into this classic piece of 
music. No French band would concede to a German 
band the proper technique of rendering their own 
music. Yes, it was truly re-sweetened. I wanted to 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


£64 

think that no band coming in competition with our 
band equalled it in artful rendition. Its thoughtful 
and long experience of carefully rendering the classics 
gave it a place among bands. But the honest, clouded 
expressions of my friends, looking across while hear¬ 
ing the notes of the Frenchmen, betrayed their feel¬ 
ings. They, too, enjoyed the masterly efforts of their 
neighbor across the waterway. I was loath to believe 
the majesty of their silence was an acknowledgment 
of their inferiority. The unquivering lips, the rest¬ 
less, pale eyes, the peaceful expression of these repre¬ 
sentatives of one of the world's greatest nations told 
the true tale. I wanted to send up one good lonely 
shout for France, but my regard for the feelings of 
my friends so nearby restrained all desires. 

Our band, sweet and modest to the core, patiently 
waited for the French band to render another piece. 
They did not have long to wait until the band played 
“Our Fatherland," complimentary to our boat and 
band. As I again closely studied each member of our 
band, a pleasing facial expression of their own su¬ 
periority lighted their faces. I was glad of this, but 
my mind was blank as to how to give expression to 
my thoughts. I stood mute. Our band responded 
with a German piece entitled “Preussen Marsch.” 
Silence again prevailed, but not monotonous, for quite 
soon the French band wafted back over the waters and 
through the village of ships now anchored in the har¬ 
bor that never-failing music that ever inspires and 
sends aloft an American, “The Star Spangled Ban¬ 
ner.” The first part was not finished until I found 
myself swinging high my handkerchief and hurrahing 




THE GLOBE TROTTER 


265 


t --—— - 

at the top of my voice. By this time the naval officers 
and all the soldiers on the- three men-of-war were 
out for their morning drill. They, too, took up my 
loyal acclaim, and perhaps three thousand voices as 
one were cheering for the land of the free and the 
home of the brave. This inspiring acclaim was wafted 
through the many ships and on the rock-ribbed harbor 
hills and city as never before given, since, perhaps, 
when the Crusaders stormed the shore, nearly a thou¬ 
sand years ago. Cheer after cheer went up for the 
starry flag. I found tears in my voice. I tried to 
suppress them by cheering louder, as I was quickly 
pacing up and down the promenade deck, as a school¬ 
boy would cheer for his classmates. I found some¬ 
thing warm running down my face. I felt embar¬ 
rassed, but there was no one on deck but the members 
of the band and myself. They stood silent, scrutin¬ 
izing my actions. The scenes were changed. It was 
Germany watching the emotions of a native of the 
western hemisphere rendering his feelings for his be¬ 
loved country. My feeling at that time against every 
member of the band for not joining me was anything 
but friendly. It is strange how quickly circumstances 
change one’s feelings. 

I regretted very much that the incidents occurring 
did not happen an hour or two later, until more 
Americans had time to have shaken off their dreams 
of the hardships they endured in touring by rail, car¬ 
riage, horse, donkey and camel through Palestine, 
and be on deck to convince our French friends that 
our ship contained many true patriots. I am closing 
this article just before noonday lunch, taking one long 



266 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


look shoreward, then another to the left in the Medi¬ 
terranean Sea, where its waves are ever broken by the 
reefs famous in history for nearly four thousand 
years, where more naval engagements were fought 
than were ever fought on one place, where these rocky 
reefs were famous in ancient Gentile legends as the 
rocks of Andromeda; where fishermen stood and 
waded, recalling to the apostle his long-forgotten 
nets; then a glance upward to the city of 75,000 souls 
that could be the gem of the Mediterranean, and would 
be if Americans, English, French or Germans con¬ 
trolled its destinies. 

Three battleships and six ocean liners at anchor 
in this harbor. Flags of different nations—not a flag 
with a star and stripe. Our flag is unknown in east- 
tern waters. I have not seen an American ship since 
we left New York, more than two months ago. Great 
America, that peerless continent of the far west, di¬ 
viding the two greatest of the world’s oceans, with her 
ninety million human souls, that could furnish the 
world with food for centuries to come, that would 
impoverish other nations if her gates of commerce 
were closed, has not an ocean liner traversing the 
seas—not a flag floating in foreign ports to show to 
other nations what we are. Where are our states¬ 
men? Oh, for one term of Congress with a Henry 
Clay and Daniel Webster! Shall our country remain 
in the hands of politicians, who only serve their con¬ 
stituents for their safe return to their undeserved 
seats? For fifty years our Congress has been con¬ 
trolled by this class of people. Will it so continue, 
or will the common people, in the majesty of 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


267 


their rights, rise and demand representative patriots 
to control our nation? Till then, and not till then, 
will our flag float in unrivalled splendor over the 
high seas. 



CHAPTER XXVI 


PHENOMENA 

While en route I had the pleasure of forming - the 
agreeable acquaintance of a retired naval officer, 
whose home is in the city of Chicago and who is by 
education an astronomer. We chanced to be on the 
aft deck of the boat, when the moon was in her garb 
of full beauty. The sky was clear; soon a few slowly 
floating clouds appeared, as though they were sen¬ 
tinels on duty guarding gentle Luna in her stately 
progress across the sky, occasionally shading her from 
the earth, then gliding a little below, or a little above, 
as though coquetting with her timidity. Then a lit¬ 
tle thin cloud not entirely unlike a loosely woven 
gossamer cloth would veil her face, seemingly to show 
how the heavenly females also cover the wrinkles of 
time, and make the face appear more youthful. “Oh, 
you old moon,” thought I, “you have on your full 
togs, and that fetching smile.” For millions of peo¬ 
ple “hob-nob” with her when she poses up in mid-skv 
to show just how pretty she is. She is so beautiful 
she should come down and mingle with us, if for no 
other reason than to show that she isn’t struck on 
herself. My friend, the astronomer, is a married 
man, but I would like him to get acquainted with the 
old gal, even if she is like most old bachelor girls, 

268 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


£69 


“sot in her ways;” it was always kind of curious to 
me, to know just how she would sit up so high and 
pose sometimes, as to-night, in full view, and at other 
times peeking around the corner with one eye. To¬ 
night I looked her straight in the face, rude of me, 
I am willing to acknowledge, but being rude, and know¬ 
ing she would criticise my utterly too too eagerness 
to get more closely acquainted, I just thought I'd 
flirt with the old maid, being that she had it in for 
me anyhow. So I winked at her, with my right 
eye. I was sitting to the right of my friend, so he 
couldn’t see what I was doing. Unfortunately, just 
then she curtained her face with a passing veil-like 
cloud that had no other business there just then. I 
thought it was so pre-arranged, but maybe it was for 
my benefit, for it is easier to get into trouble with a 
pretty face, than to get released from the effects of 
its grip. Then again, I am not quite certain just 
how a goddess of the sky will take to a son of the 
soil. The clouds were floating by above and under 
the moon, and as I was just adjusting my right eye 
for another sly wink, my friend remarked: 

“There, watch the moon. You will see a perfect 
rainbow when that little cloud will pass between us 
and the moon. The rainbow will be of a circular 
shape, just as the moon is.” 

He had scarcely finished the sentence when the 
cloud passed between us and the moon. The phenom¬ 
enon was complete. A perfect circular rainbow with 
all the pre-historic colors showing to vivid perfection. 
I was nearly appalled; for I never viewed such a 
scene before. Again, how did he know it? Clouds 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


270 

had been passing across the face of the moon for 
nearly an hour. 

When I had time to gather my thoughts and start 
afresh my breath, I asked him the cause of this phe¬ 
nomenon. To which he readily replied: 

“There was just enough moisture in that cloud 
to cause a reflection back from the sea. The first 
clouds were too thin and the light from the moon 
too penetrating to permit the proper ray of light to 
make the rainbow.” 

This explanation recalled the bygone school day 
studies of the parallel rays of light falling on a solid 
cylinder of glass or water. Its interests consist in the 
fact that by its aid we can explain the phenomena 
of the rainbow. The rays must be in a direction per¬ 
pendicular to the axis of the cylinder; for in this 
case the whole course of each ray is in a plane per¬ 
pendicular to the axis. For such the cylinder acts 
as a lens, and its focal length can easily be obtained 
in the way the moon sat so far back from the clouds, 
and a much nearer distance from the cloud to the 
sea water below, reflecting many rays of light back 
to the* passing cloud. One may well imagine the 
strength of this light, recalling the fact that on land, 
rainbows are only seen under daylight, while this 
phenomenon appeared as late as the noon of night. 
As the radius of this rainbow was much longer than 
the moon, it could easily be accounted for, when we 
consider the relative difference of distances between 
the moon and the cloud and the cloud and the sea. 
In this bow the less refrangible rays are on the in¬ 
ner side, and the straggling rays illuminate feebly 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


m 


the space outside it. Hence the space between the 
red boundaries of the two bows has no illumination 
from rays reflected either once or twice within the 
water drops. 

This is what the geometrical optics tell us about the 
rainbow. It seems the primary bow is due to rays 
falling on the outer portions of the drops, which suf¬ 
fer two refractions and one reflection before reach¬ 
ing the eye, and that the secondary bow is due to 
rays falling on the inner side, and suffering two re¬ 
fractions and two reflections. By reflections from the 
faces of these crystals, the source of light is spread 
over a much larger spherical angle, and there is no 
sharp edge to it as there is in the case of the un¬ 
clouded disk. 

Experience is indeed a great teacher. I have read 
in what appeared at the time to be scientific author¬ 
ity, in which it was represented of lunar rainbow 
that “when the moon is the source of light, the rain¬ 
bow is so faint that it is often difficult to distinguish 
the colors; but with full moon, and other favorable 
circumstances, it is easy to assure one’s self that the 
colors are really present.” 

This authority indicates doubt of lunar light be¬ 
ing amply sufficient to make a perfect rainbow, while 
I know that the rainbow I am trying to describe was 
as bright as any one I ever saw under the light of 
the sun. 

I have read of halos, where the refraction of sun¬ 
light or moonlight through ice crystals forming cir¬ 
rus clouds giving rise to colored halos, parhelia, etc. 
Their approximate explanation depends upon the be- 



m 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


havior of prisms with angles of 6o° to 90°. But I 
have never seen one. However, they must not be 
confounded with coronse, those rings which encircle 
the sun or moon when seen through a mist or cloud. 

Halos have definite radii depending on the definite 
angles of ice crystals; the size of the coronse depends 
on the size of the drops of water in the mist or 
cloud, being smaller as the drops are larger. Thus, 
their diminution in radius shows that the drops are 
becoming larger and implies approaching rain. 

Glimpses of a more general method had been ob¬ 
tained even in the seventeenth century; and in the 
eighteenth these had become a consistent process so 
far as application to the corpuscular theory is con¬ 
cerned. But is was reserved for Sir W. R. Hamilton 
to discover the existence of what he called the “char¬ 
acteristic function,” by the help of which all optical 
problems, whether on the corpuscular or on the un- 
dulatory theory, are solved by one common proc¬ 
ess. Hamilton was in possession of the gems of this 
grand theory some years before 1824, but it was first 
communicated to the Royal Irish Academy in that 
year, and published in imperfect installments some 
years later. The following is his own description of 
it. It is extremely important as showing his views 
on a very singular part of the more modern history 
of science. 

“Those who have meditated on the beauty and util¬ 
ity, in theoretical mechanics, of the general method 
of Lagrange, have felt the power and dignity 
of that central dynamical theorem which he pro¬ 
duced. 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


273 


“It appeared that if a general method in deductive 
optics can be attained at all, it must flow from law 
or principle, itself of the highest generality, and 
among the highest results of induction. 

U A linear path of light, from one point to another, 
is always found to be such that, if it be compared 
with the other infinitely the same two points might be 
connected, a certain integral part, depending by fixed 
rules on the length, and shape and position of the 
path, and on all the similar integrals for the other 
neighboring lines, or, at least, possesses, with respect 
to them, a certain stationary property. From this 
law then, which may, perhaps, be named the Law of 
Stationary Action, it seems that we may most fitly 
and with best hope set out, in the synthetic deductive 
process and in the search of a mathematical method. 

“Accordingly, from this known law of least or 
stationary action I deduced that which may be called 
by analogy the Law of Varying Action, and which 
seems to offer naturally a method such as we are 
seeking; the one law being as it were the last step 
in the ascending scale of induction, respecting linear 
paths of light while the other law may usefully be 
made the first in the descending and deductive way. 

“The former of these two laws discovered in the 
following manner: The elementary principle of 
straight rays showed that light, under the most simple 
and usual circumstances, employs the direct, and 
therefore the shortest, course to pass from one point 
to another. Again, it was a very early discovery 
that in the case of a plane mirror, the bent line formed 
by the incident and reflected rays is shorter than any 





THE GLOBE TROTTER 


other bent line having the same extremities, and hav¬ 
ing its point bending on the mirror. These facts 
were thought by some to be instances and results of 
the simplicity and economy of nature; and Fermat, 
whose researches on maxima and minima are claimed 
as the germ of the differential calculus, sought anx¬ 
iously to trace some similar economy in the more 
complex case of refraction. He believed that light 
always takes the course which it can traverse in the 
shortest time. To reconcile this metaphysical opinion 
with the law of refraction, Fermat was led to sup¬ 
pose that the two lengths or indices are inversely pro¬ 
portional to the two successive velocities of the light 
before and after refraction, and therefore that velo¬ 
city of light is diminished on entering those denser 
media in which it is observed to approach the perpen¬ 
dicular; for Fermat believed that the time of pro¬ 
pagation of light along a line bent by refraction was 
represented by the sum of the two products, of the in¬ 
cident portion multiplied by the index of the first 
medium, and of the refracted portion multiplied by 
the index of the second medium; because he found, 
that this sum was less, in the case of a plane refractor, 
if light went by any other than an actual path 
from one given point to another, and because he per¬ 
ceived that the supposition of a velocity inversely as 
the index reconciled his mathematical discovery of 
the minimum.” 

The next morning after witnessing this phe¬ 
nomenon of the rainbow, I related the incident to 
many of my fellow travellers. I was very much sur¬ 
prised to notice the few that even cared to converse 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


275 


on the subject, though they never saw or heard of 
such an occurrence. Yet, they were, as a body of 
people, more intelligent than the average. There 
seems to be an over callousness of some people, before 
whom all the glories of the heavens’ starry brightness 
can not enthuse, or touch their hearts, elevate their 
fancies, or leave any durable remembrances. Even of 
those who pretend to sensibility, how many there are 
to whom the lustre of the rising or setting sun, the 
sparkling canopy of the midnight sky, the mountains, 
the forest tossing and roaring to the storm, or warb¬ 
ling with all the melodies of a summer evening’s 
zephyr; the sweet interchange of hill and dale, shade 
and sunshine, grove, lawn, and water, which an ex¬ 
tensive landscape offers to view; the scenery of the 
ocean, so majestic and so infinitely tremendous, and 
the many pleasing varieties of animal and vegetable 
life, could never afford so much real satisfaction as 
cavorting about a ball-room with high heeled shoes, 
a pinched up waist like a wasp, rustling a silk skirt at 
each turn, under the influence of the insipid and rosin¬ 
grating sounds of a fiddle bow, and an ambition for a 
little more squeezing and whirling, or the strained 
squeaking of a conceited singer trying to reach “G” 
by the strength of the expansion of her larynx, and 
an ambition to be heard? 

But some people are of a different make, who re¬ 
ceive from the contemplation of nature a species 
of delight which they would hardly exchange for any 
other; and who have not avarice and ambition, the 
infirmities of this period. Such minds have always 
in time the seeds of true taste, and at times an imita- 



276 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


tive genius. At least, though their enthusiastic or 
visionary turn of mind, as the man of the world calls 
it, should not always incline them to practise poetry 
or painting, without some portion of this enthusi¬ 
asm no person ever became a true poet or painter. 
For he who would imitate the works of nature, must 
first accurately observe them, and accurate observation 
is to be expected from those only who take great 
pleasure in it. 

I have ofttimes noticed that no part of the world 
is indifferent. In the over-crowded city, and as well 
as the density of the lonely forest; in the cultured 
society circles and the lonely country home; in the 
flowery gardens and desolate mountains; in the sweet 
murmur of the mountain brook and the fierce lashing 
of an ocean storm, such as we lately experienced; in 
the heat of the summer, the cool clover-scented breezes 
of autumn, the snow-clad hills of winter, as well as 
the freshness of spring; in the pealing roar of thun¬ 
der, and whisper of the zephyrs’ breath, man finds 
something to rouse or to soothe his imagination, to 
draw forth his affections, or to stir up his thoughts. 
For a dormant mind is close to insanity, which mind 
becomes unrestrainedly active on subjects not normal. 
It is only a sound mind that derives satisfaction. 

The greatest lovers of nature’s beauties are not 
confined to the cultured class. I have found them in 
the midst of the poor and lowly. I once saw a cow 
that would go to a hill side overlooking a valley and 
low, to hear the echo of her own voice. I once owned 
a dog who would bark and give many evidences of 
joy at hearing the rumbling of the thunder, but would 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


m 

take to his kennel as soon as he saw the first flash 
of lightning. I once knew a horse, who seemingly 
took pleasure in viewing the starry heavens, but like 
the dog, he feared the flash of lightning. 

Again nature’s beauties are added to or taken from 
in part by situations. It has been less than thirty 
days since I rode a camel’s back out in the Saharian 
desert from the pyramids near Cairo in Egypt. “How 
beautiful,” thought I, for the desert presents nature’s 
vastness. Were it not for the pyramids I should 
not have seen the desert. The desert gives to the 
pyramids a sightly view they would not have if they 
were among mountains, and what would the desert 
appeal to without the pyramids? If a chain of moun¬ 
tains were snow-capped or crowned with glacier with¬ 
out the valleys below, or the narrow canyons between, 
they would be but sightless barren rocks; nature never 
fails to give the right setting for her pictures. I 
love the works of nature, and I like others to do the 
same. For then I know they love the beautiful and 
the true. 



CHAPTER XXVII 


ATHENS 

Steaming two days and nights across the Mediter¬ 
ranean Sea brought us the third morning into the 
entrance of the Aegean Sea; giving a view in the dis¬ 
tance of high rocks on either side projecting out of 
the water, resembling the backs of camels on the 
ground when ready to receive their loads for the 
caravan. Nearing the little sea, we gradually beheld 
through the horizon, as the sun arose from the Medi¬ 
terranean, large snow-capped mountains, with which 
we also had become quite familiar on the south side 
of the sea we had left. 

A heavy wind was blowing abow; but the big ship 
plowed the waves as though it courted their coming; 
fully demonstrating the art and ingenuity of man’s 
inventions over the elements of nature. Less than 
half an hour the rudder guided the ship out of the 
Mediterranean into the Higean Sea. Now we were 
lined on either side by high mountains having the 
proud appearance of each mountain being composed 
of a single rock—rock to the water’s edge. Not a 
visible sign of vegetation on their solid sides. The 
nearer mountains not being so high as the mountains 
in the rear, as though nature intended the rear moun- 

278 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


279 


tains should have the privilege of looking into the 
sea first navigated by man. 

For a while our ship kept on a straight line; then 
she began to turn sharply right, then left, so on for 
miles, leaving far behind a serpentine trail, plainly 
indicating that the navigator’s chart showed danger 
below. 

It was noonday when we slowed up and took aboard 
the harbor pilot. There were too many ships in the 
harbor to anchor. The ship steamed up two miles 
farther to Phaleron, only to find that harbor nearly 
full of ships. We were forced to anchor two miles 
out, and went ashore on tugs and sailing boats. The 
next day we steamed around and back to Pinesus 
where the ship remained until we left for Kalamaki. 

The cities of Pirsesus, Phaleron and Athens join, 
though there are three municipalities aggregating a 
population of over three hundred thousand inhabi¬ 
tants, many factories, healthful, well clad and appar¬ 
ently well-fed people. The city is as clean as clean¬ 
liness. The city proper has but little appearance of 
age; having a post-office that would be a credit to 
any of the larger cities of the globe. 

A three-rail electric tramway took us to Athens in 
about ten minutes. On the railway from Pirsesus 
to Athens our dragoman showed us the long stone 
walls erected by Themistocles, and rebuilt under Peri¬ 
cles, between the fourth and fifth centuries, B. C., 
after their destruction during the Peloponnesian 

« 

war. We were soon in full view of the historical 
Acropolis. 

After reaching the station we secured a carriage 



280 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


and were soon driven to the Temple of Jupiter, Gate 
of Hadrian, Monument of Lycicrates, Theatre of Di¬ 
onysus, and Theatre of Herodes Atticus. These 
grand old relics of times when their years dated fif¬ 
teen to twenty centuries before Christ, certainly carry 
with their age the stately evidence of all that is 
claimed for them. 

The second day we drove to Mar's Hill, Pnyx, 
Nymphs, Muses, Old Market and its gates, Tower of 
the Winds, and Academy of Hadrian. The third day 
we drove by the Royal palace and garden, Univer¬ 
sity Academy and National Museum, the churches 
large and small—Metropolis, Kapnicarea Ancient 
Cemetery, Colonus, Hill Lycobetus and cistern of 
Hadrian. 

While we all truthfully regard Athens as the seat 
of the original learning, where the rules of mathe¬ 
matics were worked out, where the astronomers 
learned to measure the distance from the earth to the 
moon and the other planets, where language was prop¬ 
erly put into words, phrases, sentences, and stories 
and history into true composition, all by the heated 
brains of philosophers, they themselves uneducated. 
It was here where Homer, the blind mendicant begged 
his bread while he was composing the Iliad and the 
Odyssey, the first, the grandest poem ever written and 
the most magnificent piece of literature ever printed. 
This was all done by the brains of men who coined 
these great works out of their brains, unaided by 
books or instruments to assist them. In the days 
when “time was young.” 

It would be a pleasure to write of each of these 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


281 


places mentioned, but it is not the purpose of this 
book to go into such details, only to give the reader 
a glancing idea of what is really the most remark¬ 
able ; as a full detailed account would, I believe, make 
a book of live hundred pages, and would not be with¬ 
in the scope of what is expected of a Globe Trotter. 

The Panathenaic Stadion’s name came from its 
length, being an ancient race course six hundred feet 
long. It was erected by the great Grecian orator, 
Lycargos, in the year 330 B. C., for the purpose of 
Olympian games, having sixty rows of seats, and 
accommodations for sixty thousand people. 

The course from the spectators was separated by a 
low wall of marble, behind which is a corridor ac¬ 
cessible to the lower tiers of seats. 

The Olympeion, the grandeur of which excites the 
admiration of the visitor, began to be erected under 
Peissistratos, in the year 530 B. C., but the work was 
interrupted by the Peisistratides and Persian war. 

Antiochos Epyphanes, King of Syria, in the year 
174 B. C. decided to continue the erection under the 
architect Cossotios, whose remarkable if not wonder¬ 
ful evidence of science is still to be seen in the remain¬ 
ing sixteen columns, that are perhaps fifty feet high 
and about six feet in diameter, set on foundations and 
having Corinthian caps above supporting marble 
beams of about six feet in thickness and perhaps eight 
or ten feet in width. One standing and looking at 
these wonderful marble structures is at a loss to know 
how these immense columns were ever put up, and es¬ 
pecially how the cross beams were ever raised up to 
their places. 



282 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


Outside this wonderful structure are three lines of 
marble steps, or walks, six hundred and seventy feet 
in length, three feet wide and two feet in thickness, 
many of them thirty to forty feet in length. It is 
not clear to an observer what they were put there 
for, as they are no part of the building proper, yet, it 
is plain the building would not look so well if they 
were removed. At the first glance one could easily 
imagine these three steps are level, but on closer ex¬ 
amination it is discovered that putting one’s eye on 
one end, it reaches no farther than the centre, it is 
then seen that each marble step has a curvature the 
same as the floor of the main building, the curva¬ 
ture is equal to three inches to the mile, the same 
as the curvature of the earth. 

This wonderful building stood many a siege, as its 
remaining walls bear evidence of holes made by can¬ 
non balls. 

Ninety-five years ago the building was in a state of 
almost perfect preservation, when the Turks captured 
Athens, and placing several hundred tons of powder 
in storage, as was alleged, by a premature explosion 
the building was blown to pieces, leaving but the above 
named columns and cross beams intact. 

The Gate of Hadrian is fifty-nine feet high, and 
forty-four feet wide with an archway twenty feet in 
width. When the Emperor Hadrian finished the 
Temple of Jupiter, a new city was founded around 
it, and took the name of Eladrianopolis. 

The Monument of Lysicrates is a fine rounded 
building surrounded by Corinthian columns, built 335 
B. C. as the inscription on the frieze testifies. The 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


283 


monument owes its good state of preservation to the 
fact that it served as library to the French Capuchin 
Convent, during Turkish domination in Athens. Lord 
Byron wrote some of his poems in it. The frieze rep¬ 
resents Dionysius being robbed by the Tyrrhenian pi¬ 
rates and he converting them into Dolphins. This 
building is made of Pentelic marble and stands on a 
solid base of Piraic stone. 

The ruins of the Theatre of Dionysius is one of 
the most ancient and historical relics of Grecian 
architecture; finished 340 B. C., seated thirty thou¬ 
sand spectators. The seats in the upper part are of 
Poros stone, the lower and most interesting are of 
Pentelic marble. They are dedicated to the different 
priests according to the inscription that each one 
bears. The most important and beautiful is the one 
in the middle, bearing the name of the priest of Di¬ 
onysius Elentherius. The place for the orchestra is 
paved with marble slabs, in the middle of which was 
the altar of Dionysius. The wall of the stage is 
supported by stooping selenes, belonging to a more 
ancient period, in the middle of which is a flight of 
steps uniting the stage with the orchestra. 

The theatre was uncovered, and the people as¬ 
sembled either to deliberate on affairs of state, or 
to be present at the representation of tragedies and 
comedies. 

■ Above the theatre at the foot of the Acropolis is a 
grotto now dedicated to the Virgin, in front of which 
are the ruins of the Monument of Thrassileus, also 
destroyed by the Turks. 

Mar’s Hill or Areopagos has nothing left but a 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


flight of fifteen steps hewn in the rock, being- the 
only access to the top. Nothing remains now but the 
rock itself, to remind us of the great court of justice, 
in which Ares or Mars, whose name the rock in¬ 
herited, was first tried for the murder of Hali- 
rotiocs, Orestes for that of his mother, and many 
others. This is the place also, where Saint Paul, in 
the year 54 A. D., preached to the Athenians about the 
true God, and converted Saint Dionysius and others 
to Christianity. From here also the citadel of the 
Acropolis, according* to tradition, was attacked by the 
Persians and Amazons. 

Near by is the Acropolis, which means the highest 
part of the city. History informs us that the Acro¬ 
polis was formerly the seat of the Athenian Kings. 
During the times of Peisistratos the Acropolis was 
embellished with a temple of Minerva, and an impos¬ 
ing gateway destroyed by the Persians in the year 
480 B. C. After the destruction by the Persians, the 
walls and fortifications were re-erected by Kimon and 
Themistocles and Pericles. The entrance is now from 
the Beule Gate, which is a little doorway discovered 
by a French servant of that name, in the year 1852. 

Passing through this doorway the visitor ascends 
by a broad staircase of marble steps, added by the 
Romans, to the Propylsea meaning a decoration be¬ 
fore the gates, or an entrance erected under Pericles 
on the foundation of an earlier gateway in the year 
137 B. C., for the purpose of giving a magnificent 
and worthy entrance to the Acropolis, and to those 
marvellous edifices, as the Parthenon, Erechtheion, 
etc. The splendid designs of the architect Muessicles 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


285 


consisted of a central gateway and two wings. The 
front of its vestibules was composed of six Ionic col¬ 
umns, crowned by a small pediment. 

The chief entrance to the Propylsea was composed 
of five doors, the largest of which in the middle is 
twenty-four feet two inches high, and thirteen feet 
eight inches in width, opened to admit the great 
Panathenian and Eleusinian processions coming 
through the Sacred Way up to the Parthenon. 
Traces of the chariot wheels are still visibly cut in 
the rock, showing the use for which the way was in¬ 
tended. 

Below the picture gallery is a pedestal which bears 
the statue of Agrippa, son-in-law of King Augustus, 
in 26 B. C. 

Also near by are the ruins of the Temple of Nike, 
meaning wingless victory, entirely reconstructed by 
the Bavarian Architect Schauberts and Hausen in the 
year 1835, from the original materials discovered in 
a Turkish fortification. It is amphiprostyle tetrastyle, 
having four Ionic columns, thirteen and a half feet 
high. A frieze round the outside eighty-six feet long 
and seventeen inches high, representing battles be¬ 
tween Greeks and Barbarians and Amazons. A wing¬ 
less statue of Minerva at the central part of the in¬ 
terior was celebrated as Victory and signified that 
the goddess would never forsake the Athenians. 

A fine view is had from here to the Monument of 
Philopappus, Bay of Phaleron, Harbor of Pieraeus, 
coast of Salamis, also to the Sacred Way leading to 
Elensis. 

Standing in the Acropolis on the platform of mar- 



286 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


ble, of which the different square depressions on the 
rock, the numerous pedestals testify to the places 
where native offerings were placed. 

In here is the pedestal of Minerva, the goddess of 
health, to record the miracle that the fair goddess ap¬ 
peared to Pericles in a dream, and prescribed a rem¬ 
edy for a workman who was injured by falling from 
the building during the erection of the Propylea. 
Above the pedestal of the goddess is a platform which 
formerly contained the temple of Minerva. 

The Parthenon, the most beautiful and perfect edi¬ 
fice ever erected, is two hundred and twenty-eight 
feet long and one hundred one feet wide. This 
magnificent and most imposing building, which was 
erected in the year 437 B. C. under Pericles, con¬ 
sisted entirely of Pentelic marble. The architects were 
Ictions and Kallicrates, the sculptors Phidias and his 
pupils. In the Poros stone rises the stylobate in three 
steps, which are not quite horizontal but slightly 
convex. 

In a quadrangular space, paved with dark colored 
stone, in the middle of the temple, stood the cele¬ 
brated statue of Athene, the Virgin goddess, in gold 
and ivory, the most admirable work of Phidias, thirty- 
nine feet in height. The goddess was represented 
holding in one hand a lancet, and in the other a vic¬ 
tory; her helmet bore a sphinx and was ornamented 
with two griffins. Some other representations were 
placed by Phidias on the other sides of the statue, 
the battle of the Amazons, the combats of gods and 
giants, the birth of Pandora. 

A frieze five hundred and twenty-four feet long, 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


287 


round the outside of the cella, represented the prep¬ 
arations and the arrangement of the great Panathen- 
ian processions. 

Several alterations took place on the Parthenon 
during the different ages. In the year 630 A. D. it 
was converted into a Christian church, which was em¬ 
bellished in the year 1019, by the Emperor Bassilios, 
the red fresco paintings distinguishable still on the 
interior wall, exist from that time. During the Tur¬ 
kish domination the Parthenon was converted into a 
mosque. On the east portico remain six Ionic col¬ 
umns, twenty-two feet high, including the capitals. 
This portico was dedicated to Athene Polias. It con¬ 
tained a statue of which the origin was unknown, giv¬ 
ing the people of its time the belief that it came from 
Heaven. And the eternal light shining from its 
golden lamp was continually burning in front of the 
statue, the oil of which was taken from the sacred 
olive tree planted by Athene. 

The north portico consists of six Ionic columns, 
four on each front and one on each side, very artisti¬ 
cally decorated, and a splendidly ornamented door¬ 
way is leading to the Pandrossion temple of Pandros- 
sos, daughter of Kecrops. The ceiling was partly 
destroyed by the Turks. The south portico is that 
of the Cariatides, who are six beautiful virgins, sup¬ 
porting the roof, instead of six columns. The name 
Cariatides is derived, either because they belong to 
the city of Caria, or because they carry on their 
heads Kara baskets. 

Opposite the Beule Gate is the Hill of Pnyx, an arti¬ 
ficial platform three hundred and ninety feet long and 



288 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


two hundred and twelve feet wide, where the Atheni¬ 
ans held their political assemblies, and where the cele¬ 
brated Greek orators, Pericles, Demosthenes, and oth¬ 
ers, delivered eloquent and immortal speeches. There 
is also the Bema stage of the orators, hewn in the 
solid rock, and looking on another platform supported 
by a wall of enormous blocks, supposed to be of Pelas- 
gian construction. 

A hill nearby is crowned by the monument of 
Philoppapus, grandson of Antioches Epiphanes, the 
last King of Komagene in Asia Minor. It was forty 
feet high and thirty-three feet wide. Three niches on 
the upper part, separated by Corinthian half-columns, 
/ bore different statues. Fine view from here to the 
Acropolis, Propylea and Mar’s Hill. Descending, we 
were shown three chambers in the rock, known as the 
prisons of Socrates. Nothing is certain about their au¬ 
thenticity, and we do not want to believe that such a 
great man died in such a place. They may have been 
Pelasgian dwellings, or, more probably, they were an¬ 
cient treasuries, for we observe many similar remains 
in this truly wonderful ancient country. In any event, 
the person with whose name they are connected de¬ 
served great respect. 

We were next driven to the Temple of Theseus, the 
most ancient and best preserved edifice of ancient Ath¬ 
ens. Authors and archaeologists have been often con¬ 
tradictory as to the authenticity of this temple, as well 
as in regard to the god in whose honor it was erected, 
but considering it as the Temple of Theseus, it is one 
which was erected in the year 469 B. C., when Cimon 
was sent by the Athenians to the island of Skyros to 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


289 


fetch the remains of Theseus, in token of gratitude 
that the ghost of Theseus, according to a mythological 
tradition, appearing during the battle of Marathon, 
had helped the Athenians to gain the victory. The 
remains were brought by Cimon and were buried in 
that place, and the temple was erected in a peripteral 
style, with thirteen columns at each side and six at 
each end. They are nineteen feet in height, including 
the capital, and the temple is one hundred feet long 
and forty feet wide. The columns are made of Pen- 
telic marble. 

Nothing now remains of the interior groups that 
originally filled up the pediments, excepting the relief 
of the metopes, representing different heroic deeds of 
Theseus and Hercules. 

During the Turkish domination the temple was con¬ 
verted into a mosque, and in the year 1833 into a 
Greek National Museum. 

We were then driven to the ancient cemetery, and 
viewed monuments of the most distinguished people 
of ancient times. The finest piece of work was the 
Bull, probably the symbol of Dionysus. Next to this 
is the grave of Koralion, the wife of Agathon, repre¬ 
senting her husband holding her by the hand. Many 
other similar statues are seen here. 

On the upper part of Aeolos Street is the Tower of 
the Winds, forty-two feet high and twenty-one feet 
in diameter. There are other places of minor impor¬ 
tance, but I must not forget to mention that the Na¬ 
tional Museum has no equal of its character anywhere, 
of objects to be seen, most of these treasuries, vessels 
of gold, of silver, weapons, ornaments, golden masks, 



290 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


and others of similar interest, used in the decorations 
of the tombs of distinguished personages date from 
the twelfth century B. C. 

In the art department we were shown the rooms 
Athene and Hermes. Relief from Eleusis, represent¬ 
ing Demetra, holding grains of corn to a boy in front 
of her. The boy is supposed to be Triptolemas, who 
first taught men the art of husbandry. 

Bas relief, representing Minerva and Marsyas, dis¬ 
covered in Athens. Statuette of Minerva Virgin, the 
only perfect reproduction of the colossal statue, in 
gold and ivory. 

Statuettes of Apollo from Sparta, and thousands of 
other articles of equal importance. 



In the room dedicated to Themis and Neptune were 
a collosal statue of Themis, the goddess of justice, of 
the third century B. C., and several hundred others, 
vases, etc. 

In the Acropolis Museum we saw a group of lions 
* attacking a bull, Hercules fighting with the Lernean 
Hydra, Hercules fighting with a Triton,*and different 
objects of much interest. 

Many of the names above written not being familiar 
and the dates given by the dragoman being question¬ 
able, I secured for the purpose of accuracy a Guide 
Book that was carefully prepared by a native Greek 
historian, a Mr. John Katsimis, who has made a deep 
and long study of ancient Greek, and the facts given 
in his book are regarded as reliable. It must be no¬ 
ticed, however, that in giving Greek names he 
often uses the letter “Kg' where in English we use 
the letter “C.” I, however, have followed his 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


291 


method, using the same manner of spelling that he 
does. 

As a city Athens is remarkable in being principally 
built of marble. A mountain of marble is nearby. It 
is said these marble quarries furnish fourteen varieties 
of marble, all of a fine quality. The city is clean and 
healthful in appearance. Modern, up-to-date conven¬ 
iences are seen everywhere in this Athens of to-day. 

The Crown Princess Sophia of Greece, the younger 
sister of Emperor William of Germnay, and her lady 
of honor came on our ship as invited guests of Count¬ 
ess Von Matuschka and Count Von Hohenan. They 
dined at noon lunch next table to my own. Their 
conversation during luncheon was conducted in the 
German language; must have been amusing, as the 
hour was interspersed with quite a goodly mixture of 
mirth in low and well-regulated, cultured tones. After 
luncheon the royal party ascended the stairs to the 
Social Hall, where we all pass time in social amuse¬ 
ment. Here the visitors and their hosts drank coffee. 
A box of cigarettes and a box of matches were also 
served. The Princess was the first one to take a ciga¬ 
rette. Count Von Hohenan reached a lighter to her 
cigarette, and she puffed the first smoke, holding her 
cigarette between her first and second finger like an 
old-time smoker. 

The Princess is forty-two years old, though she 
could easily pass for thirty years where she is not 
known. 

The Princess is a very beautiful woman—brown 
hair, features purely classic, her eyes a soft, gentle 
hazel. Apart from these excellencies of face, form 



9.99, 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


and figure, which largely add to make a rare and high 
type of physical perfection, she is possessed of that 
subtle charm of femininity, which leaves with her that 
natural manner of courtly dignity, that would, apart 
from her grace of ease, properly place her a leader 
among court beauties. 

She was attired in a dark-blue cloth tailor-made suit, 
trimmed with black satin, and she wore a tri-cornered 
beaver hat, with a purple wing, white lingerie waist. 
Her jewels consisted of a pearl necklace and pearl 
ear-rings. The lady-of-honor was gowned in plain 
black. 

Accompanying her and her lady-of-honor was 
Prince Christopt of Greece, her husband’s youngest 
brother. They remained with us until we reached 
Kalamaki. Here they went ashore, returning to 
Athens by railroad the same evening. 


HOMER 

There never lived at any age a writer equal to Ho¬ 
mer, and there never was a writer who labored under 
so many disadvantages as Homer. Being totally 
blind, he had to be led wherever he went. Without 
money or home, he was compelled to beg for his 
bread when his poems failed to bring an adequate in¬ 
come to support him. 

He gave to literature words and meanings never 
equalled or attempted by any other person. His in¬ 
comparable genius placed him alone in the class of 
fame as a writer. Milton, Dante, Bacon, or Shakes- 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


233 


peare and men of their class, looked to the Iliad and 
the Odyssey as works of a master whose genius no 
one attempted to portray in any language. 

I have yet to hear of a monument being erected to 
his memory. Yet, I have seen in Greece, Homer’s na¬ 
tive country, monuments in marble, erected to the 
memory of rulers and heroes, in beauty and form so 
life-like and in numbers so plentiful, that when I 
passed through the Art Museum in Athens, through 
the forest of white marble in its almost endless halls, 
I stopped and asked my guide: “Where is the mar¬ 
ble shaft commemorative of Homer?” He looked 
puzzled, as he replied: 

“We will yet have one.” 

I paused, as my mind in the flight of thought sug¬ 
gested : that perhaps no sculptor ever thought himself 
competent to chisel out a head sufficiently perfect in 
form to contain a Homeric brain. 

In Valetta, I saw a painting of Homer and the 
faithful servant who led him by the hand through 
the streets and the exterior niche or alcove in a stone 
building which they crawled into at night for slumber. 
I, perhaps foolishly, thought that with chisel and mal¬ 
let I could mould from a marble block the face and 
form of this great poet. I can see his stooped form, 
his great broad shoulders, his muscular neck, his mar¬ 
vellous head, and his sightless eyes, his ever-used cane 
in one hand while being led by the other, and I again 
ask* myself: 

Why does not Greece raise a substantial monu¬ 
ment, such as natives love to raise to conquerors 
and rulers, commemorative to the fame of the man 



294 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


who put into print words the wizardy of an incom¬ 
parable genius? 

I believe it was Pope who wrote: 

“Seven cities claim Homer when dead, 

Through which cities in life he begged his bread.” 










CHAPTER XXVIII 


SMYRNA 

Steaming from Kalamaki, in Greece, to Smyrna, 
in Asia Minor, a distance of only two hundred and 
thirty-five miles, which we easily did between suns, 
going into the harbor of Smyrna a little after daylight 
next morning. This is our first introduction to a city 
in Asia Minor. We found a good harbor for small 
boats, but our boat was compelled to anchor out a 
mile or more in the bay. 

Smyrna has all the appearance of a Grecian city, 
yet, by conquest, it is an Asian city. 

The buildings are nearly all three stories in height, 
seemingly built centuries ago. 

The greatest industry carried on here is the manu¬ 
facturing of fine rugs, both for the table and floor. 

A carriage drive over the city failed to elicit any¬ 
thing more than ordinary scenes, and I shall content 
myself by giving a history of the city. 

Smyrna, in ancient times, one of the most im¬ 
portant, and now by far the greatest of the cities of 
Asia Minor, has preserved an unbroken continuity 
of record and identity of name from the first dawn 
of history to the present time. It is said to have 
been a Lelegian city before the Greek colonists set¬ 
tled in Asia Minor. The name, which is said to be 

295 


29 6 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


derived from an Amazon called Smyrna, is undoubt¬ 
edly Anatolian, having been applied also to a quarter 
of Ephesus, and to a city of SEolis, and to a tumulus 
in the Troad. The SEolic settlers of Lesbos and Cyme, 
pushing eastwards by Larissa and Neonteichus and 
over the Hermus, seized the valley of Smyrna. It 
was the frontier city between SEolis on the north and 
Ionia on the south, and was accessible on the south 
and east more than on the north and west. At the 
same time, it was, by virtue of its favorable situation, 
necessarily a commercial city, like the Ionian colonies. 
It is, therefore, not surprising that the SEolic element 
grew weaker; strangers or refugees from the Ionian 
Colophon settled in the city ,and finally Smyrna 
passed into the hands of the Colophonians and became 
the thirteenth of the Ionian states. The SEolic form 
of the name was retained even in the Attic dialect, 
and the epithet, “SEolian Smyrna” remained long after 
the conquest. The favorable situation of Smyrna on 
the path of commerce between Lydia and the west 
raised it during the seventh century to the height of 
power and splendor. It lay at the eastern end of an 
arm of the sea, which reached far inland and admitted 
the Greek trading ships into the heart of Lydia. One 
of the great trade routes which cross Anatolia from 
east to west descends the Hermus valley past Sardis, 
and then diverging from the valley passes south of 
Mount Sipylus and crosses a low pass into the little 
valley, about seven miles long and two broad, where 
Smyrna lies between the mountains and the sea. Mi¬ 
letus, and at a later time, Ephesus, situated at the end 
of the othergreat trade route across Anatolia,competed 




THE GLOBE TROTTER 


297 


for a time successfully with Smyrna for conveyance of 
traffic from the interior; but both Ephesus and Miletus 
have long ago lost their harbors, and Smyrna now re¬ 
mains without a rival. It was of necessity in close rela¬ 
tion with the Lydians, and when the Mermnad kings 
raised the Lydian power and aggressiveness, it was 
one of the first points of attack. Gyges was, how¬ 
ever, defeated in a great battle on the banks of the 
Hermus; the situation of the battle field shows that 
the power of Smyrna extended far to the east, and 
probably included the valley of Nymphseum. A strong 
fortress, the ruins of whose ancient and massive walls 
are still imposing, on a hill in the pass between Smyrna 
and Nymphasum, was probably built by the Smyrnaean 
and Nymphasum, to command the valley of Nym¬ 
phseum. According to the poet Theognis (about 500 
B. C.), “pride destroyed Smyrna.” Minnermus 
laments the degeneracy of the citizens of his day, 
who could no longer stem the Lydian advance. 
Finally, Alyattes conquered the city, and Smyrna, for 
three hundred years, lost its place in the list of Greek 
cities. It did not entirely cease to exist, but the Greek 
life and political unity were destroyed and the Smyr¬ 
naean state was organized on the village system. It is 
mentioned in a fragment of Pindar, about 500 B. C., 
and in an inscription ,of 388 B. C. A small fortifica¬ 
tion of early style, rudely but massively built, on the 
lowest slope of a hill behind Burnabat, is perhaps a 
fortified village of this period. Alexander the Great 
conceived the idea of restoring the Greek city; the 
two Nemeses who were worshipped at Smyrna are 
said to have suggested the idea to him in a dream. 



298 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


The scheme was, according to Strabo, carried out by 
Antigonus, and Lysimachus enlarged and fortified the 
city. The acropolis of the ancient city had been on a 
steep peak, about one thousand, two hundred and fifty 
feet high, which overhangs the northeastern extremity 
of the gulf. Its ruins still exist, probably in much 
the same condition as they were left by Alyattes. The 
later city was founded on the site which it still occu¬ 
pies, partly on the slopes of a rounded hill called Pagus 
near the southeastern end of the gulf, partly on the 
low ground between the hill and the sea. The beauty 
of the city when seen from the sea, clustering on the 
low ground and rising, tier over tier, on the hillside, 
is frequently praised by the ancients and is celebrated 
on its coins; the same impression still strikes the spec¬ 
tator, and must in ancient times have been much 
stronger, when magnificent buildings, an imposing 
acropolis, and the wide circle of massive walls com¬ 
bined with the natural scenery in one splendid picture. 
Smyrna is shut in on the west by a hill now called 
Deirmen Tepe, with the ruins of a temple on the sum¬ 
mit. The walls of Lysimachus crossed the summit of 
this hill and the acropolis occupied the top of Pagus. 
Between the two the road from Ephesus entered the 
city by the “Ephesian gate,” near which was a gym¬ 
nasium. Closer to the acropolis the outline of the 
stadium is still visible, and the theatre was situated 
on the northern slopes of Pagus. The line of the 
walls on the eastern side is unknown; but they cer¬ 
tainly embrace a greater area than is included by the 
Byzantine wall, which ascends the castle hill from the 
Basmakhane railway station. Smyrna possesses two 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


299 


harbors—the outer, which was simply the gulf, and 
the inner, which was a small basin, with a narrow en¬ 
trance closed by a rope in case of need, about the 
place now occupied by bazaars. 

The inner harbor was partially filled up in 1402, 
but it had not entirely disappeared until the beginning 
of the nineteenth century. The streets were broad, 
and regularly laid out at right angles. Many are 
named after temples, and the main street is called the 
Golden, running across the city from west to east, 
beginning probably from the temple on Deirmen Tepe, 
and continuing toward the east, where probably the 
temple of Cybele, the Metroon, stood. Cybele, wor¬ 
shipped under the name of Meter Sipylene, from 
Mount Sipylus, which bounds the Smyrna valley on 
the north, was the tutelar goddess of the city. The 
plain toward the sea was too low to be properly 
drained, and hence in rainy weather the streets were 
deep with mud and water. 

The river Meles, which flows by Smyrna, is famous 
in literature, and was worshipped in the valley. The 
most common and consistent tradition connects Ho¬ 
mer with the valley of Smyrna and the banks of the 
Meles; his figure was one of the stock types on Smyr- 
nsean coins, one class of which was called Homerian; 
the epithet “Melesigenes” was applied to him; the cave 
where he was wont to compose his poems was shown 
near the source of the river; his temple, the Homer- 
eum, stood on its banks. The steady, equable flow 
of the Meles, alike in summer and winter, neither 
swollen after rain nor dry during drought, its pleas¬ 
ant water, its short course beginning and ending near 



300 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


the city, are celebrated by Artistides and Himerius. 
The description applies admirably to the stream, which 
rises from abundant fountains, now known as Diana’s 
Bath, some away to the east of the city, and flows into 
the southeastern extremity of the gulf. The common 
belief that the torrent, dry except after rains, which 
flows by Caravan Bridge, is the ancient Meles, flatly 
contradicts the ancient descriptions. 

In the Roman period Smyrna was the seat of a 
conventus, which included southern yEolis and a great 
part of the Hermus valley. It vied with Ephesus and 
Pergamum for the title ‘‘First (city) of Asia.” A 
Christian church existed here from a very early time, 
having its origin in the considerable Jewish colony. 
Polycarp was a bishop of Smyrna. The bishops of 
Smyrna were originally subject to the metropolitan 
of Ephesus; afterwards they became independent, and 
finally were honored with metropolitan rank, having 
under them bishops of Phocsea: Magnesia and Sipy- 
lum, Clazonmenae, Sosandrus, Archangelus, and Petra. 

When Constantinople became the seat of govern¬ 
ment, the trade between Anatolia and the west lost in 
importance, and Smyrna declined apace. A Turkish 
freebooter named Tsacha seized Smyrna in 1084 an< ^ 
maintained himself there for some time, but it was 
recovered by the generals of Alexius Comnenus. The 
city was several times afterwards ravaged by the 
Turks, and had become quite ruinous when the Em¬ 
peror John Ducus Vatatzes, about 1222, rebuilt it. 
The famous chieftain Aiden conquered it about 1330, 
and made his son Amur governor. Soon afterwards 
the knights of St. John established themselves in the 



THE GLOBE TROTTER SOI 

town, but failed to conquer the citadel. In 1402, 
Timur stormed the town and massacred almost all the 
inhabitants. The Mongol conquest was only tempor¬ 
ary, but Smyrna has remained to the present day in 
Mohammedan hands. It is now the greatest commer¬ 
cial city in the Levant. Its population is about two 
hundred thousand, of whom nearly half are Greeks. 
It is the terminus of the railway system which is 
gradually spreading over Anatolia. Two lines start 
from Smyrna: one ascends the Hermus valley by Mag¬ 
nesia and Sardis to Alashehr, about one hundred and 
ten miles; the other goes south by Ephesus to the 
Maeander valley beside Magnesia on the Maeander, 
and then ascends to the neighborhood of Laodicea cn 
the Lycus, one hundred and forty-three miles. Since 
the revival of the Levant trade by the Genoese and 
Venetians, Smyrna has been the emporium for the 
whole produce of Anatolia. The chief raw products 
exported are valonea, figs, raisins, opium, madder, 
licorice, cotton, sponges, emery, etc. Almost the 
only articles of native manufacture which are ex¬ 
ported from Smyrna are the carpets woven at Geurdiz, 
Coula, Ushhak, and other places in the interior. 
Smyrna has frequently been partially destroyed by 
earthquakes. That of 178 A. D. is the most famous, 
and in 1768 and 1880 the town suffered severely. 




CHAPTER XXIX 








DARDANELLES 

We were informed by our captain that by daylight 
next morning we would reach the historical Darda¬ 
nelles. For many years I longed to pass through this 
place, made famous by many adventurous military 
commanders, by the poet, the painter, and in song. 

I was up on the hurricane deck before five o’clock. 
It was yet very dark. The sun was sound asleep, but, 
strange to say, I went back to the smoking room to 
get a cup of black Turkish coffee. I found two ac¬ 
quaintances getting their “morning bracer,” and they 
undertook to convince me that if I, too, took a 
“bracer,” I could see the Dardanelles much sooner 
than on a cup of coffee. 

I was soon on the hurricane deck; the first officer 
was on the bridge. He informed me that it was the 
darkness of the morning that obscured the mountain. 
Two ladies, equally anxious, were soon by my side. 
We had to keep walking rapidly to keep warm, for 
the morning breeze was much more friendly in em¬ 
bracing than any other perambulator on the deck. 
The ladies were the alfalfa widow and her mother. 
I tried to convince the mother that it was too cold 
for her; that she had better go down and get a cup 
of coffee. No use. I thought once that I had better 

302 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


303 


take her to the coffee room, but i knew the first 
officer about as well as I did Madame Alfalfa. I 
also knew that it would be of no use to ask him to 
take “Mamma” down. His place was on the bridge. 
I did the next best thing: I got between “Mamma” 
and “daughter dear,” and we continued promenading 
around while the sun rolled over and was taking his 
last morning nap. 

Dardanelles is the ancient Hellespont, and in Turk¬ 
ish Bahr-Sefed Boghasi, the strait uniting the Sea of 
Marmora with the Hfgean, so called from the two 
castles by which the narrowest part is protected, and 
which preserve the name of the city of Dardanus in 
the Troad, famous for the treaty between Sulla and 
Mithridates in 84 B. C. Its shores are formed by the 
Peninsula of Gallipoli on the northwest and by the 
mainland of Asia Minor on the southeast; and it ex¬ 
tends for a distance of about forty-seven miles with 
an average breadth of three or four miles. At the 
Higean extremity stand the castles of Sedil Bahr and 
Kum Kaleh, the former in Europe and the latter in 
Asia; and near the Marmora extremity are situated 
the important town Gallipoli (Kallipolis), on the 
northern side, and the less important, though equally 
famous Lamsaki, or Lampsacus, on the southern. 
The two castles of the Dardanelles par excellence are 
Chanak-Kalesi, Sultanieh-Kalesi, or the Old Castle of 
Anatolia, and Kilid-Bahr, or the Old Castle of Ru- 
melia, which were long but erroneously identified 
with Sestos and Abydos, now located farther to the 
north. The strait of the Dardanelles is famous in 
history for the passage of Xerxes by means of a 




THE GLOBE TROTTER 


304 

bridge of boats, and for the similar exploit on the 
part of Alexander. Nor is its name less widely known 
from the story of Hero and Leander, and from Lord 
Byron’s successful attempt to rival the ancient swim¬ 
mer. The passage of the strait is easily defended, but 
in 1807 the English Admiral Duckworth made his 
w^ay past all the fortresses into the Sea of Marmora. 
In terms of the treaty of July, 1841, confirmed by the 
Paris peace of 1856, no foreign ship of war may enter 
the strait except by Turkish permission, and even mer¬ 
chant vessels are only allowed to pass the castle of 
Chanak-Kalesi during the day. 

The channel which connects the Sea of Marmora 
with the Aegean is properly termed the Hellespont— 
the name Dardanelles, by which it is commonly known, 
being really that of the fortifications erected on the 
two sides of the strait by which its passage is guarded. 
The Sea of Marmora narrows to a breadth of ten 
miles towards the northeastern entrance of the chan¬ 
nel ; at Gallipoli, the distance between the two shores 
suddenly contracts to about two miles; and between 
this and the iEgean end of the strait, that distance is 
further diminished at certain points to even less than 
a mile. The depth of the channel is considerable, be¬ 
ing for the most part between thirty and fifty fathoms. 

The sky gave evidence of a clear morning. At last 
we saw distant mountains on either side. As we 
neared them, it seemed they were at least twenty 
miles apart, and the open gap between them, for 
which our boat was headed, opened into a sea beyond. 
I guess it was the geographic situation of the place 
that was in my head, instead of my eyes, for on 




THE GLOBE TROTTER 


305 


ahead and between the silent mountains was impene¬ 
trable darkness. 

The boat was under full steam, and within thirty 
or forty minutes we were passing out of the /Egean 
Sea into the strait, yet the mouth of the strait must 
be from fifteen to twenty miles in width. It is now 
the gray of the morning, but no sign in the east. It 
just seems the blanket of darkness was lifted up and 
we could see beneath. Two young ladies, sisters by 
the way, came up to see the historical places, and we 
had great difficulty in convincing them that we could 
see the mountain on either side. Finally their eyes 
became accustomed to the morning light, and they, too, 
could see all we could see. 

Within an hour we could see, by the aid of our 
glasses, the towns along the water’s edge on either 
side, with the high range of mountains as background. 
We could now feel the ship’s vibrations lessen as 
the speed was retarded, for we were nearing Chanak- 
Kalesi, where the Turkish government will not per¬ 
mit any ship to pass before daylight, which they con¬ 
strue to mean under the light of the sun. 

By wireless, we were permitted to proceed, and 
again the two big screw propellers began to get busy 
in the agitated waters, and the nose of the big steamer 
again began to split waves. We were soon where the 
strait was but a mile wide and monster cannons stood 
facing our boat. 

The vibration entirely ceased. The ship was going 
only by the momentum from the force given, as the 
alfalfa widow remarked, “just scooting along.” A 
steam yacht was circling from shore and then heading 



306 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


for us. The side stairs were now lowered, and we 
saw our purser for the first time in tour go down with 
his papers. The Turk was soon lashed to our boat, 
and our officer went aboard and down into the cabin 
of the yacht. Just then a row-boat brought a pilot, 
to pilot our boat through the Dardanelles and the Sea 
of Marmora. It took the Turk about thirty minutes 
to examine our papers, or, as Madame Alfalfa sug¬ 
gested: “Maybe the Turk was giving our purser a 
‘morning bracer.’ ” 

It was then we learned we were in port of the his¬ 
torical city of Troy, made famous in Hellenic days 
by Homer, for it was there he wrote the Iliad more 
than five hundred years before Christ. 

The cool breeze, blowing down the Dardanelles 
from the Sea of Marmora, was too penetrating for 
my four lady companions, and they scudded below, 
either to get some hot coffee or to get beneath warm 
blankets, I did not inquire which. I vigorously 
walked the promenade deck, for this I sought in pref¬ 
erence to the hurricane deck, where I had much diffi¬ 
culty in keeping on my cap and retaining the buttons 
on my overcoat, so swift was the current coming 
down the funnel-shaped banks of the Dardanelles. I 
viewed the two projecting points where Lord Byron 
swam across the water, and the great banks of moun¬ 
tains as backgrounds While circling the ship’s prome¬ 
nade deck, I was nearly blown against the side of the 
ship while passing in front, from one side to the 
other. This incident was suggestive of warmer and 
less busy quarters. 

It is pleasanter now, and I saw the vast battlefield 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


307 


where Agamemnon led his mighty army against the 
impenetrable walls of Troy. “Driven back,” thought 
I. Achilles, with his heroic band, sacking the neigh¬ 
boring towns; two beautiful maidens, Chriseis and 
Briseis, he brought into his tent; the first he gave to 
Agamemnon, the king, and the fair Briseis he re¬ 
tained. He cherished his captive fair. But way back 
over the mountain so high, could be seen coming the 
father of Chriseis, and the priest of Apollo, coming to 
the Grecian camp to ransom his daughter; the priest 
being refused, and insolently dismissed by Agamemnon, 
entreats for vengeance from his god, who inflicts a pes¬ 
tilence on the Greeks. Way back in the mountain foot 
could be seen Achilles, while addressing a council and 
encouraging Cholcos to declare the cause of the pesti¬ 
lence, who attributes it to the refusal of Agamemnon 
to release the captive maid. Being thus obliged to 
send her back, he claims Briseis, Achilles’ captive: 

“Haste to the fierce Achilles’ tent, (he cries), 

Thence bear Briseis as our royal prize; 

Submit he must; or if they will not part, 

Ourself in arms shall tear her from his heart.” 

We see them go, and see them there. I think I 
hear Achilles’ reply: 

“I know your message; by constraint you come. 

Not you, but your imperious lord I blame. 

Patroclus, haste, the fair Briseis bring; 

Conduct my captive to the haughty king.” 

I saw r a cloud of dust and thought it the marching 
of many men. Thence, as though out of this dust, 
shot many chariots, pulled by fierce horses, mad and 



808 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


wild, but they were met on equal footing by Troyan 
force. A great battle was then in rage, and from 
the parapets of the inner walls could be seen the fair 
Helen of Troy, the cause of all. Stood by her Paris, 
her lover, who brought her there. Again and again 
I could see the attack, but all in vain. 

Then everything seemed still, fading away from my 
view. I could see nothing but into the void immense. 
Then the apotheosis, in the flight of time, high up in 
the clouds I saw Helen winging her way back to her 
Grecian home, the fair Briseis supported by two an¬ 
gels in their heavenward flight, met by thousands of 
angels, beautiful and fair, urged on by Minerva, to 
high Olympus’ shining court ascend, for below was 
Paris, and Agamemnon, representatives of the brutal 
passions of men. I saw it all, and my mind wandered, 
as I soliloquized, “is this judgment day?” I heard a 
trumpet blow. “Is this Gabriel?” thought I. I moved 
something nice and warm nearer my neck. I again 
heard the trumpet blow. Again I asked, “is this judg¬ 
ment day?” It sounded again near my door. No, it 
was the bugle call for breakfast. Oh, what a dream! 

I was simply lying on my lounge, with my steamer 
rug and a big double blanket wrapped about me. 
Looking at my watch, I saw it was nine o’clock. 
Rushing out on deck, I saw we were away out in the 
Sea of Marmora. Land , could be seen on the west 
side, but it was all water on the east side. I got down 
into the dining salon and ate everything ordered from 
the menu. Looking across the hall, I saw four ladies, 
one of whom shook her fork at me, meaning, I sup¬ 
pose, that they, too, were pitched in late, for they were 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


309 


the same ladies who were with me at the hour of four. 
Finishing- first, as I did, I joined them, and began 
to relate to them my dream, and the beautiful scenes 
my fancy pictured from Homer’s Iliad. The younger 
one said: “I don’t want poetry; I want more hot 
cakes.” 

“And syrup,” rejoined Madame Alfalfa. 

“Yes,” she replied. 

“That is poetry,” said Madame Alfalfa, “for every¬ 
thing that is sweet is poetry.” 

“Then,” said I, “I know four sweet verses that 
should be divided into four separate poems.” 

They took the hint, and I made as early a move as 
the situation of the passway about the round table 
would permit. 



CHAPTER XXX 


CONSTANTINOPLE 

This being our second day here, we were driven 
through the city in the forenoon, arriving at the Sul¬ 
tan's Mosque at eleven-thirty, where more than five 
thousand people, including the two thousand soldiers 
as his bodyguard, were waiting the hour of twelve to 
see the Sultan go from his palace to the mosque to 
pray. Most rigid formality was observed. For the 
appearance and service, several wagon loads of fresh 
sand from the sea were dumped along the line of 
his drive, which was left until the hour of 12 M.; then, 
after the soldiers marched into the inclosed grounds 
of the mosque, a large number of laborers, with shov¬ 
els, quickly scattered the sand. Then five elegantly 
equipped enclosed carriages, containing, in all, eleven 
Sultanas, with fine open silk meshes in their silk veils, 
called yashmac, afforded display rather than obscurity 
of features, since their faces could be as easily seen 
through the yashmac as though they were off. 
Shortly afterwards, more similar carriages containing 
Sultanas came in, likewise costumed, until thirty-three 
beautiful women had arrived. As the carriages came 
in, the attendants immediately removed the tongues, 
taken from the landeaus, and the landeaus, with the 
aid of the attendants, turned immediately toward the 

310 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


311 


sandbed road over which the Sultan was soon to 
come. An officer kindly permitted us to stand on the 
roadside between the carriages containing the Sul¬ 
tanas and the road, giving us an easy position to view 
the members of the harem. The Sultan held Selamlik 
yesterday at the Valida Mosque, Beshiktash. His 
majesty spent the afternoon at his villa at Balmoumdji. 
To my surprise, the ladies of the harem seemed to 
be pleased with their station in life. They looked 
at us meaningly. I do not mean by this that they 
acted improperly, or that any member of our party 
appeared rude. It may be that they felt exalted by 
their position, or honored by our presence, or amused 
by our curiosity in seeing them. I did not see but one 
Sultana who, I thought, was over thirty years of age, 
and some others were certainly in their teens. In 
one carriage there was a girl of eleven or twelve 
years, perhaps the daughter of the Sultan; other car¬ 
riages also had some children. Following the ladies 
of the harem came a brass band, finely uniformed, in 
golden trimmings. They did not render music, but 
carried their instruments silently. On reaching the 
mosque, they were ordered to “right about face/' 
leaving their backs against the wall of the mosque 
and their faces toward the gate from whence they 
came, and in which the Sultan was soon expected. 

A long wait, usual with dignitaries to make the com¬ 
ing scene more impressive, insure success. Finally 
some soldiers again marched in, followed by an open 
carriage with a single man of about forty-five years 
of age, in uniform, which, I was informed, is the 
son of the Sultan. Then another long wait, and 



312 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


finally the bugle notes could be heard coming from 
the palace, indicating that royalty was astir. Then we 
heard a brass band sending its musical notes across 
the Bosporus, for the palace, as well as the mosque, 
is hard by the swift current of the water coming from 
the Black Sea, through the Bosporus, into the Mar¬ 
mora Sea adjoining. 

At the first notes of the band, two highly uni¬ 
formed officers, perhaps priests, emerged from the 
mosque, with incense chalices and began to swing 
them. Clouds of fragrant smoke issued from them 
to meet the royal carriage. As the latter entered the 
arched gateway, the big band at the mosque began to 
pour forth the melodies of its hymn. The soldiers 
Were brought to “present arms,” in which position 
they remained until the Sultan came in, and they were 
marched about. 

The Sultan rode alone in an open carriage. He 
is seventy-one years old, though he looks much older, 
caused, perhaps, by his thirty years’ imprisonment. 
Yet, he has a very intelligent face. He looked about 
inquiringly. It is said of him that he is in constant 
fear of assassination. 

He also entered the mosque alone, the ladies of 
the harem remaining in their respective carriages out¬ 
side. It is said that he permits them on certain occa¬ 
sions to enter the galleries of the mosque while he 
is engaged in prayer below. 

All the carriages in which the ladies of the harem 
rode were of the finest make, and polished to shine 
like new pianos. The horses were magnificent ani¬ 
mals, ranging from sixteen and a half to seventeen 




THE FAVORITE OF THE HAREM. 


•—Page 312 



























THE GLOBE TROTTER 


313 


hands high, with gold-mounted harness. The car¬ 
riage in which the Sultan rode would perhaps weigh 
from two to three tons, drawn by a monster span of 
prancing horses, perhaps seventeen hands high, that 
would easily weigh a ton each. There must have 
been a fortune in the gold on the harness. One can 
hardly imagine where so many big, fine-looking and 
spirited horses come from. 

Quite a goodly number of clean-built Arabian 
horses, saddled and bridled, were led in the entrance 
gate and held by soldiers for seeming use, but we 
could not learn the purpose of their coming. 

I always was in deep sympathy with the ladies of 
the harem, as I supposed they looked and acted as do 
prisoners. But the contrary view grew in my mind, 
as I saw the smiling and apparently cheerful faces of 
these women. 

Perhaps none but the inmates of the harem, and 
possibly the eunuchs and the Sultan know how many 
women compose the present royal harem. It is said 
he has sixty. I hope they are all as cheerful looking 
as the thirty-one I saw to-day. There is certainly a 
great difference between the Turkish and the Ameri¬ 
can women. Here there are about sixty per cent of 
the women satisfied with their husbands. I doubt if 
in all America sixty women could be gathered who 
would become the wives of one man. From the rec¬ 
ords of our divorce court, I doubt if the average 
woman is satisfied with one man. 

I recall my noonday lunch at Jaffa, when a big Turk 
sitting opposite me at the table, seemed to be trying 
' to mimic the noise of a toothless camel eating green 



314 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


clover. He had the eyes of a viper, the breath of 
a monster, and as I was informed, the passions of a 
beast. Having a harem of but nine wives, he was a 
roving libertine about the city. Think of a fine, deli¬ 
cate woman living with such an animal! 

After the soldiers began to encircle the mosque for 
the protection of its inmate, we hurriedly entered our 
respective carriages, and were soon scudding over the 
stone streets bordering the bank of the Bosporus to 
the harbor, where we were shortly on board lighters 
and splitting water toward our big boat, more than a 
half mile from shore, where a fine, warm lunch of 
hot soups and many good things awaited us. On 
reaching our ship, we found it was nearly two o’clock. 

At three o’clock we were aboard two small steamers 
and were taken for a two hours’ ride up the Golden 
Horn, passing through the drawbridge, Galata, known 
in history for more than two thousand years, viewing 
the high minarets and many sights along the his¬ 
torical shores of the river. 

After our stay of nearly three days and nights in 
Constantinople, our boat weighed anchor and steamed 
up against the swift-running current of the Bosporus, 
into the tideless Black Sea, passing fourteen little 
towns and villages on the port side of the ship and 
as many more on the larboard side. 

These many villages and towns bear the marks of 
age, and are built close to the edge of the Bosporus. 
We can only guess that they are supported by the 
trade derived from the south of the Bosporus, and 
behind the mountains on the north, in what is known 
as the Forest of Belgrade. 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


315 


A truly strange formation of the land surface bor¬ 
ders the Bosporus. Imagine two lines of rock moun¬ 
tains, perhaps averaging a distance of two miles apart, 
with irregular footings, curves, constituting places for 
bays. These mountains commence at the Black Sea 
and terminate at the Sea of Marmora, a distance of 
but eighteen miles. Between these mountains the Bos¬ 
porus flows from one sea into the other. 

The Marmora empties into the Mediterranean, and 
is affected by its tide; but the descent or incline in 
the bed of the Bosporus does not permit the tide in 
the Sea of Marmora to reach the Black Sea. 

In passing up the irregular shores of the Bosporus, 
as we look into the mouths of the great cannons 
guarding the channel, our minds recall the many naval 
engagements of scores of mighty nations for this 
much-coveted land, that is now rendered impossible 
to penetrate by the presence of these great guns and 
the dexterity of the men behind them. 

In less than two hours the nose of our big boat was 
out into new waters, sniffing the ozone of the histori¬ 
cal Black Sea, whose bottom must be laden with the 
fallen lead of naval engagements in by-gone days. 

The ship made a grand semi-circle and was very 
soon proceeding down the trackless channel, return¬ 
ing over the way she had come but an hour before. 
The downward current would soon have carried the 
boat back into the Sea of Marmora without the aid 
of artificial power, were such the wish of the ship’s 
management. 

Viewing the rocky mountains skirting these waters 
suggests to one’s mind that Nature must have put 



316 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


them there for the sole purpose of protecting an over¬ 
flow of the Bosporus on either side. But, if so, why 
so high? Why are these mountains void of vegeta¬ 
tion? These are questions one’s mind cannot answer, 
or even conceive a reason bordering on a proper solu¬ 
tion of the great question that never will be answered 
by any one. 

Our ship’s propellers ceased their motion and the 
boat glided slowly to permit the Bosporus pilot and 
visitors to go on the lighters ashore, and in return 
to receive the passengers from Constantinople bound 
for Europe. 

While the boat was there waiting, my eyes glanced 
down the bay to the Golden Horn, and the Bridge of 
Galata crossing the same. To my right, I could see 
Stamboul or Constantinople proper; to my left, Ga¬ 
lata, Pers, and Skutari, the latter lying on the Asi¬ 
atic shore. Ahead of me was the plain, the old Se¬ 
raglio, the mosque of St. Sophia, and the Hippo¬ 
drome ; on the second hill the porphyry column on the 
site of the ancient Forum of Constantine; on the third 
hill, the War Office and the Suleimanich Mosque ; on 
the sixth hill, the ruins of the Hebdomon Palace, and 
on the seventh hill, the column of the Arcadians. 

Again the thought, “is there any spot on earth 
where one stands and beholds so many points of his¬ 
torical interest, where time made history, and where 
history records the time when this harbor was red 
with blood of the dead and dying soldiery of many 
battles?” 

I nearly forgot to mention a pleasant incident that 
happened as our boat was about to enter the bay 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


317 


just leaving the Bosporus. We heard above the noise 
of our boat hundreds of voices to our right descend¬ 
ing. We looked up on the hill top and saw perhaps 
two or three hundred young men in front of a fine 
three-story, neatly constructed, brick building, and on 
its flag-pole our grand old flag was being pulled 
heavenward. The patriotic cheering and the only time 
in tour we saw our own flag flaunting before us, re¬ 
called our university days, long since passed. 

We were then informed that our object of delight 
is the Robert College, an American college founded 
by a Mr. Robert, a rich merchant residing in Phila¬ 
delphia. 

The government of Turkey has been, from the time 
of the foundation of the Turkish Empire, in 1326, an 
absolute monarchy, the Sultan being asbolute ruler 
of his people, and head of the Mohammedan religion. 
But, since the twenty-third day of July, 1908, owing* 
to the rising of the young Turks and to an army in¬ 
surrection, and the dethronement of Sultan Abdul- 
Hamid Khan II, it has been changed into a consti¬ 
tutional monarchy. It consists of the Sultan, the 
Grand Vizier (Prince Minister), two Cabinet Minis¬ 
ters, the Senate, and the Parliament. The Sultan's 
accession to the throne is hereditary and goes to the 
oldest male of the family. The Grand Vizier and 
the Senators are appointed by the Sultan; the Cabi¬ 
net Ministers by the Grand Vizier, and the deputies 
are elected by the people, one deputy elected for every 
fifty thousand male inhabitants. 

The present Sultan, Id. I. M. Sultan Muhanimad V, 
is thirty-fifth Ottoman Sultan since the foundation of 



318 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


the Turkish dynasty, and twenty-fifth of his line since 
the taking of Constantinople. The present Sultan 
was born November 3, 1840, but looks much older, 
perhaps caused by his thirty years’ imprisonment. He 
ascended the throne on the twenty-eighth day of April, 
1909. He is of a generous and very kindly disposi¬ 
tion, and is much beloved by his people. He is the 
first constitutional Sultan Turkey ever had, and is 
extremely popular among the people. Before he 
ascended the throne, he was confined by his elder 
brother, Sultan Abd-al-Hamid Kahn II, in a small, 
low building, which adjoins his present residence, the 
Dolmah Baghachch Palace, a combination of Euro¬ 
pean and Oriental architecture, built of white marble. 
The principal objects of interest in the palace are the 
staircase, the baths of alabaster, and the throne room, 
one of the most impressive halls in Europe, where 
the Sultan holds a levee twice a year. 



CHAPTER XXXI 


THE SULTAN 

The Sultan’s face is strongly sensual. He is neces¬ 
sarily an amatorial furnace, even to the extent of per¬ 
suasive power, which under the influence of the 
authority of his office is quite unnecessary. If he 
chances to see or hear of a young and beautiful woman 
in his harem, he has only to speak the word and she 
becomes his wife. 

In the midst of the sensuality of his facial ex¬ 
pression also can be seen a sadness that might be 
reasonably expected after thirty years of continuous 
imprisonment. Yes, a sensual sadness; sensual be¬ 
cause of inbred education and practice that largely 
destroyed the spiritual and correspondingly gave 
growth to the development of bestiality that became 
his most dominant nature as he grew. 

There is a certain softness in his eyes, that be¬ 
speaks goodness, perchance, which he may occasion¬ 
ally have an opportunity to dispense. 

His favorite wife he undoubtedly loves. Indeed, if 
youth and beauty are the requisites of love, any man 
may easily become enamored with her at first sight; 
her great, black, almond-shaped eyes, soft as evening 
starlight, pleasing as joy, hopeful as the heavens, 
shaded by her jet-black eyebrows and screened by long 

319 


820 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


lashes, that seemed trained by use. Yet in her twen¬ 
ties, the softness of her facial expression has retained 
the Lisk-like appearance of the face, that is plainly 
visible through an open woven silk yashmac, that is 
only worn because of custom. If the face was in¬ 
tended to be concealed, the masara, a closely woven 
black silk, would be worn. 

As she was driven from the palace, beside which 
we were lined along the road leading to the mosque, 
no one could but be impressed with her rare beauty. 
Yet, she occupied no more important place in the pro¬ 
cession than the remaining thirty others, many of 
whom were in her class of beauty, but none quite her 
equal. 

The many Georgian beauties composing the en¬ 
tirety of the thirty-one wives, were of the highest 
type of blond, many of whom were black-eyed, a 
rarity anywhere. 

Certainly the Sultan loves but one woman; no man 
can truly love more. For love is largely spiritual, 
capable of the tenderest emotions of sympathy and 
tenderness, that cannot be distributed among others, 
or one other. Love is a passion, that is true, but if 
that passion is not entirely composed of tenderness 
and love, then it is a passion that should not be 
named with love, for love is all purity and goodness. 
It is this character of love that should be in man’s 
heart as well as woman’s when the proper qualities 
meet as life mates. 

Love’s passion has no cousins, uncles, aunts, nor 
brothers or sisters; it is an entirety in itself. 



CHAPTER XXXII 


THE HAREM 

It is said the present Sultan, like his deposed 
brother, Abdul Hamid, is much pleased with the pleas¬ 
ures of the harem. And, also like his senior brother, 
he prefers those ladies of his harem who are conspicu¬ 
ous for delicacy of form and gracefulness of manner, 
to those whose statuesque beauty is their chief attrac¬ 
tion. This evidence of beauty is now having its 
growth at home in America. The aged Abdul Hamid, 
being retired to the confines of prison walls with only 
nine Sultanas, perhaps less than one-tenth of what he 
enjoyed during the pendency of his tyrannical reign, 
may not now be so choice in his selection as in times 
of the past. In choosing these nine ladies from his 
inflated harem, he was told by the new administration 
to be wise, for no change in the ladies of his harem 
would be accorded him afterwards. These nine ladies 
are not prisoners, as is he, but they are in the same 
building, and have the freedom of a large garden and 
walks that he does not have. Whether this restraint 
meted out to him and the privileges given them, in 
the limits of their ease of liberty, creates a suspicion 
of jealousy in the mind of the prisoner of eighty-two 
years, is not made public. 

There is this difference between the brothers: Ab- 

321 


322 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


dul Hamid was more feared than loved by his people, 
while the present Sultan is more loved than feared. 
The present ruler has a certain amiability and a timid 
gallantry toward a favored few. He is said to have 
inspired among them a vaguely affectionate sentiment, 
with his special favorites. Wit and brilliancy of rep¬ 
artee, in the present harem, permitting the Sultanas 
the untraditional privilege of argument, and the in¬ 
dulgence of jokes, and the unwinding of jokes. The 
ladies of the retired harem were kept in absolute ig¬ 
norance of the world’s movement, and of the refine¬ 
ment of culture. Their limited education leads them 
to know how to adorn their bodies in such a manner 
as to more surely appeal to his abnormal sensuality. 
This is what was taught them. This is what they 
practised. These qualities are the necessary adjuncts 
to an education fitting a lady to occupy the position 
of a Sultana of a harem. It is true of the present 
Sultanas, but among them are many ladies of culture. 
Let us hope that the Sultanas will so improve in edu¬ 
cation, that in the near future they will see their 
place in the world as women, man’s equal and not his 
slave. It is so natural for woman to be affectionate 
and lovable, and to refuse to share her love and af¬ 
fection with any other woman, that we may well be 
surprised, after looking at the thirty-one women I 
saw, as stated, that they can be different from Chris¬ 
tian women. So beautiful, such bright, intelligent 
faces, so full of cheer, so expansive in happiness, so 
hopeful of a future. But they have not been two 
years in the harem. 

The Sultanas are first taught the rules of the 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


S2® 


harem, the first of which is while in the presence of the 
Sultan to do everything for his pleasure and comforts. 
Ihe eunuch’s duty is to see to the strict observance 
of these rules of the harem. 

The harem proper, consists of all the Sultanas; the 
divisions of the harem are caused by the subdivision 
of favorites down to the “Queen Bee,” the favorite 
over all other favorites. 

Entertainments are given for the Sultanas; musi¬ 
cals, dramatic performances at a distance, but when 
soirees are given eunuchs are the only ones permitted 
to associate with the Sultanas. 

The favorites of the harem rank in the harem as 
leading society ladies rank in the better society. Their 
gowns are better and their jewelry more expensive. 
The other Sultanas may feel envious at such favorit¬ 
ism, but they must not make their grievances known. 

They indulge in idleness, such as walking in. 
the gardens, reclining in the divans, sleeping in the 
swaying swings, slumbering on the heavy rugs, bol¬ 
stered up by large pillows, clad in light costumes* 
scarcely concealing the bodies and limbs. Here they 
smoke cigarettes with the ease and carelessness of 
languid idleness, or sip prepared drinks to their 
tastes. The air is perfumed with sponges soaked in 
perfume. Some of the Sultanas become mothers* 
but many do not. 

Thus slowly drag along the weary days, weeks* 
months into years. This, perhaps, is not so entirely 
objectionable as the fact that many of the ladies of 
the harem never have the society of the Sultan, nor 
his knowledge of them; and especially those who are 



324 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


not named among his favorites. Many of the Sul¬ 
tanas are given to him by friends, and in return given 
by him to some of his officers as a reward for effi¬ 
ciency in service, or as an encouragement for a 
greater service. 

To me it seemed the ladies of the present harem, or 
at least of those I saw, were much like thirtv-one 
ladies of a club or of a picnic party. Though it was 
said of the deposed Sultan, that he had three hundred 
ladies in his harem, which were divided up into cliques 
possessing likings, bitterness, hatred, jealousy and fear. 
Social war was generally in vogue, sometimes hand- 
to-hand encounters were the attractive entertainments 
for those who were not engaged or one of that 
clique. The ladies of the present official harem, in 
their gowns and toilet, are more Parisian than 
Mohammedan. 



CHAPTER XXXIII 


A GEORGIAN BEAUTY 

I foolishly omitted to have my mail directed in 
care of the ship on which I was touring. This necessi¬ 
tated going to the post-office at every large city where 
I expected mail. On reaching Constantinople, where 
I had hoped to receive many letters and papers, in¬ 
duced the going ashore on the first lighter. Securing 
a cab, I was soon on my way to the post-office, with 
hopes of the most cheerful news from the dear ones 
at home. 

The horses slowly climbed the steep hill leading to 
the new business center, only occasionally speeding 
into a trot, thence back into a walk. We finally 
reached the height and were nicely cantering along 
the street toward the Pera Palace, when we saw two 
horses drawing a landau come tearing down the street 
in all the madness of wildness, drawing two women, 
who were vainly trying to assist the driver in his 
efforts to curb the horses by ineffectual manipulation 
of the reins. They were lost in the excitement of 
the runaway’s fury, and hopeless as to their personal 
safety. On came the two wild demons, reckless as 
to what was soon to be destruction, leaving far be¬ 
hind the six mounted police, who evidently dropped 
in pursuit somewhere along the line to stop the 

325 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


S 2(3 

tjmmmmmmmm ■ 

horses. A rush toward me of a dozen or more men 
from the opposite side of the street from where I 
stood to stop the horses, caused the team to shy to 
the left too far. For my personal security I jumped 
to the sidewalk. In a moment the team was near the 
curbing, and the left fore wheel struck a large iron 
lamp-post on the corner of the street. The impact 
was so sudden, the speed so great, that the horses fell 
and the two ladies were thrown into the air. The 
cider one was shot like an arrow into the arms of a 
big policeman, who was knocked down by the con¬ 
tact. Her injury made it necessary for her immedi¬ 
ate removal to the hospital. 

The woman on the right was hurled sidewise toward 
me. I braced my body with my feet, to protect my¬ 
self as well as I could against the oncoming soul. I 
grabbed her around the body, my breath leaving me 
for a moment. Then, adjusting my hold, I tried to 
have her regain her feet, but her limbs, as well as her 
body, were limp, her face ashy gray. 

I held her in my arms as I would a corpse. I looked 
down into her beautiful features, now assuming a 
pinky red, denoting the return of blood. I did not 
know what to say. That she was a pure type of the 
Georgian Caucasian race, I had no doubt. “What was 
her language?” I wondered. I ventured to ask: 

“Are you hurt?” Her eves slowly opened, and to 
my double surprise, in as beautiful English as is used 
in Dublin or Oxford, and as she tightened her hold 
about me, she replied: 

“Sir, I thank you for saving my life, but it might 
have been better that it were otherwise. My life is 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


327 


changed. I had resolved to—(she stopped as though 
fearing to finish the sentence)—I was about to enter 
a religious order; now, my mind says no. Shall I he 
a woman of the world, blessed by a husband and then 
crowned by motherhood? From orphanage infancy 
I W'as kept from the breath or reach of man.” 

By this time I had caused her to rest her full 
weight on her feet, but she still clung to me. My 
right arm was across her right shoulder, my left un¬ 
der her right arm. I held her as tenderly as I would 
a sister or daughter. I felt I had an angel within 
my arms. Her eyes parted from mine and rested de¬ 
murely on the granite walk, as she softly asked: 

“Is it best ?” Then raising her eyes deep into mine, 
for the first time I noticed they were a deep, clear 
blue, her hair a soft, light, fluffy blonde, marble tinted 
skin, a gentle smile as if the first given to man, which 
she seemed, should have been kept for another. If 
she had told me she was an angel from above, I would 
have believed her. She looked me deeply in the eyes, 
gently smiling and pleasingly—a smile that was full 
of meaning. It was pure as the falling dew or crystal 
flakes. 

“I was never in man’s arms before,” she again be¬ 
gan, “and the only resolution I ever made was that I 
never should be.” I was now putting her into my 
landau. 

“This is not of your own consent,” I suggested. 

“But I am surprisingly pleased,” she replied, as she 
tightened her hand on my arm. Perhaps the people 
thought we were of kin ? 

“I do not know why,” she began, “I never had any 




328 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


reason to be a man-hater, and I am not now, I am 
not sure if I ever was, but I thought I was. I now 
know I am not. Perhaps my feeling was lacking the 
experience I am now undergoing.” 

“Perhaps,” responded I, for while I was not averse 
to the warmth of her grasp, I felt a little awkward, 
receiving such pleasure in a public street in one of 
the largest cities in the world. 

I wanted to see her home. It was not because I 
had any misgivings as to what she was, for I be¬ 
lieved every word she told me. 

“I am living with an aunt,” she began. “She is 
widow of my father’s brother, dear as a mother to 
me. 

Within twenty minutes we were at “Aunt’s” door. 
She was not in, but came presently and she was very 
much agitated at hearing the news of the runaway. 

The young lady and I were soon left alone in the 
parlor, surrounded by paintings and etchings of the 
masters. All the luxuries of wealth appeared on 
every side and in every corner of this beautiful home. 

“I have always been a recluse,” she began, and at 
the same time gracefully bowing, taking my hands 
between her own, looking appealingly in my eyes: 

“I wonder why there came over me such a sudden 
change? It cannot be because you saved my life, 
though I shall ever be grateful for your mercies. I 
know it can’t be for that reason, for I never before 
saw the day I was not ready to die. Now I want to 
live.” Holding my right hand between hers, she 
playfully slapped my hand with the open palm of 
her own, as she looked meaningly at me. 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


329 


“What a sudden change,” she broke out again; “a 
change that has a meaning. But what is the mean¬ 
ing?” She paused. “I wonder why this, a fascina¬ 
tion unheard of, as to effect: instantaneous as to time, 
is penetrating to the depth of my heart?” 

It was not within my power to exercise supernatu¬ 
ral power or to use influence over this beautiful girl. 
I felt a charming enchantment was coming over me, 
such as was formerly ascribed to magicians. Beauty, 
grace, and other excellent qualities adorned this girl. 
There was no reason why any man should not be un¬ 
der the influence of her presence. Yet, there was no 
reason why she shotild be enchanted by my presence. 
There was but one way to account for this strange 
coincident of feeling, the saving of her life and the 
physical contact as described. In the warmth of my 
arms she had a new awakening. Man, for whom 
woman was created, as legends will have it. Man ate 
of the forbidden tree and became a sinner. Man 
drank his first glass of liquor and then became a 
drunkard. Twin sisters resolved to live maiden lives: 
one sees a man, she marries him. He dies, she mar¬ 
ries again; he dies, she marries again, and he elopes 
with another woman; she seeks a decree and marries 
again. The reason can be seen. 

With the innocence of a child, she took me by the 
hand and led me through their sumptuous home, and 
from the bay window on the second story, we could 
easily see the Black Sea. Then she led me through 
her gardens, skirted by an iron fence, separating them 
from an avenue planted in trees of massive foliage, 
that made the avenue appear narrower than it really 



33 0 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


is. Along the walk a multitude of pedestrians, car¬ 
riages, and automobiles were constantly in motion. In 
the second garden in the rear we came across an aged 
dame, seemingly in her eighties, sitting on a rustic 
bench, beneath an overspreading tree, crocheting in 
the silence of her thoughts. She arose to greet us, 
and when she smiled I perceived in that grand face, 
now wrinkled with care, the unmistakable traces of 
beauty; the marks of sorrow and age supplanted that 
rare beauty which once attracted the amorous eyes 
of the Sultan, who took her to his harem, to recently 
abandon her in her middle forties. One had only to 
regard deeply that honest face, to encounter her mel¬ 
ancholy eyes to add: “Worn out in sorrow and 
care.” 

Why do civilized nations permit the Turks to con¬ 
tinue the custom of the harem? These poor women, 
victims of a royal lust, caged and fenced like beasts 
for the purpose of bestiality. 

This woman in years, should now be in the prime 
of womanhood. She took from her work-box a small 
tin picture of herself the day she entered the harem, 
twenty years ago. It was beautiful in the extreme. 
The Sultan gave the girl’s father two camels for her, 
and that awful traffic of human flesh for camels and 
horses exists at this time, but not as openly as here¬ 
tofore. 

I took the tintype in my hand, I could easily see 
the resemblance, but I asked myself: “Where is the 
delicate oval of her face, that in this picture seemed 
divine to me?” Nothing but the grace of manners, 
that gentle regard left. She now seemed a woman 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


SSI 


of eighty. She was released from the harem, for 
she was no longer attractive. 

The young girl and I continued through the flower 
gardens, where the density of growth made banks and 
walls of flowers. She next led me into the house, 
through a long hallway and then into an art gallery. 
Here she secured some photos of herself. She had 
a feverish desire to show me these pictures. Her 
first picture was in infancy, in the virgin style of her 
hair’s first growth. She kissed the picture, saying 
feelingly: 

“Oh, I'm a baby now.” I knew her meaning, and 
I believed it. I examined the photo closely, and I 
could see the thin lips where the smile of a juvenile 
soul had endured and blessed childhood, and now 
was matured in noble womanhood, and was now re¬ 
peating itself, smiling at me. She regarded me closely, 
for she saw that I was making comparisons. I was 
sitting in a large arm-chair, while she was gently 
leaning over me, as she said: 

“I will give to you what I never gave to man 
before.” 

I supposed she was about to bestow on me a 
photo. 

“Will you take it?” she asked. 

“Certainly,” replied I, and while my face was 
turned upwards, she kissed me on my forehead. 

“You are my savior,” she ventured. “It is you, sir, 
who have given us the privilege of this meeting, and 
the enjoyment of this pleasure.” 

“I hope I shall have the honor of rendering you 
further service,’’ I replied. 



332 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


“Then, my dear sir, take me to free America, where 
woman has the rights of man. I want to live as I 
have not been taught, and not in accordance with the 
customs of my own country. If I ever marry, I 
went to be my husband’s only wife, and not the six¬ 
tieth part of a wife.” 

She regarded me with attentive eyes; I fear she 
encountered a strange emotion. I was speechless. I 
believe her pure as an angel. Yet, I could see she 
was ready to go where I might go. She was ready to 
take any risk, that would take her from her native 
country. 

I remember once deeply penetrating a virgin forest. 
I was thirsty. I took my cup and drank from a gush¬ 
ing spring; as I was about to dip for a second cup of 
water, I beheld a beautiful wild rose. I plucked it. 
It had the moisture of the spring, and the ozone of 
the forest. I thought of its purity. I now compare 
that rose to this girl. I took the rose, but there are 
reasons why I did not take the girl. Our eyes met in 
delight, but not a word was said. Each noted the 
delight change to mute agony of an emotion too deep 
and too profound for words. She ventured: 

“Are you married?” 

“No,” replied I. 

I gently shook her by the hand, which she then 
held tightly, raising it to be kissed, as is the custom of 
the country. Her hand seemed unsteady, nervous, in 
fact. Her head was high, and inclined backward, her 
eyes nearly closed. Her virgin lips quivered with 
emotion as she lisped these words that fell indelibly 
on my mind: 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


333 


“You are the first man, other than my own father, 
that I ever spoke to.” 

With bated breath, a face child-like and a heart 
pure, she articulated these words, as though not to 
reach beyond my ears. “Pure,” thought I. 

Meeting this earthly angel recalled the immortal 
mythological comedy written by W. S. Gilbert, where¬ 
in he has two characters, Pygmalion, an Athenian 
sculptor, and Galatea, an animated statue. The dif¬ 
ference is that Pygmalion, made from marble, 
become passionately in love with the beauty of the 
perfection of her form. He thought he had a super¬ 
human power denied to other men. He then and 
again thought himself a magician. He claimed that 
all his sculptored female subjects were goddesses in 
outward form, and he prayed that this one he had 
named Galatea be permitted to breathe and walk in 
noble womanhood. He was so much amoured with 
the beauty of this statue that he kept it covered with 
a curtain, through which he would call the name Ga¬ 
latea ! and at this last moment, he heard a re¬ 
sponse. 

“Pygmalion!” 

“Who called?” he demanded. 

“Pygmalion!” she exclaimed. 

“Ye Gods! It lives!” 

“Pygmalion!” it again proclaimed, and Pygmalion 
declared: “It speaks! I have my prayer; my Gala- 
tea breathes!” And again he hears from behind the 
curtain the words: 

“Where am I? Let me speak, Pygmalion; give me 
thy hand—both hands.” 



334 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


She threw the curtain back and descended from 
her pedestal, as she continued: 

“Give me your hands—both hands—how soft and 
warm! Whence came I?” 

“Why, from yonder pedestal.” 

“That pedestal! Ah, I recollect; there was a time 
when it was a part of me.” To which Pygmalion re¬ 
plied : 

“That time has passed forever; thou art now a 
living, breathing woman, excellent in every attribute 
of womankind.” 

“Where am I, then?” she asked. 

“Why, born into the world by miracle,” he assured 
her. 

“Is this the world,” she asked, “this room?” 

“In Athens/’ he said. 

“And is Athens, then, the world?” she asked. 

“To an Athenian—yes-” 

“Then this is life?” she asked him, looking about 
her. 

“It is!” he proudly exclaimed. 

To which Galatea added: 

“And not long since I was a cold, dull stone. I live 
in the ecstasy of a new-born life; live in the love of 
him that fashioned me; live in a thousand tangled 
thoughts of hope, love, gratitude, thought that re¬ 
solved themselves into one word, that word—Pygma¬ 
lion!” 

“I have no words to tell thee of my joy, oh woman, 
perfect in thy loveliness.” 

She stepped toward him, as she asked: “What is 
that word? Am I a woman?” 





THE GLOBE TROTTER 


335 


“Yes,” he said, as he looked at her with added ad¬ 
miration. 

‘‘Art thou a woman?” she asked. 

“No, I am a man,” he replied, while looking at this 
soul of innocence. 

She staggered back, as she asked in great sur¬ 
prise: “What is man?” 

Pygmalion was pleased to reply: “A being strongly 
framed, to wait on woman and protect her from all 
ills that strength and courage can avert; to work and 
toil for her, that she may rest; to weep and mourn 
for her, that she may live!” 

Galatea paused for a moment, and then said: “I’m 
glad I am a woman.” 

We were soon at the door. She again extended 
her hand to be kissed. I then touched my hat; we 
parted in—silence. 

I was soon in my carriage rattling over the stony 
streets, an impression deeply seated in my heart never 
to be forgotten, and as I turned street corners and 
sped on, I asked myself: “Why does civilization per¬ 
mit the custom of human slavery?” 




CHAPTER XXXIV 


TURKEY 

Thanks to the young Turkish government, the 
sacred dog on the streets around which carriages 
would have to drive, is now the same as any other cur 
of the world. Yesterday, we were driving in car¬ 
riages eight or nine hours, and I did not see any more 
dogs than I would have seen in a like drive in any city 
in America. And those remaining are treated in the 
usual way American dogs are that are in the way of 
drivers. 

Turkey is now a progressive country. Large steel 
framed buildings are in the course of erection. A ship 
load of automobiles is at anchor near where I am writ¬ 
ing on our own boat. Many automobiles in use. 

Ancient Turkey is becoming a thing of the past. A 
new nation, a constitution safeguarding the interest 
of her people; strong and forcible is this constitution. 
It roots out the rubbish and the brutal tyranny for cen¬ 
turies past, that have been practised by the several 
Sultans. Modern ways are constantly being inau¬ 
gurated. Turkey indeed has a bright future. 

The Treasury, a building in which rare jewels are 
kept, contains one piece of furniture: the Persian 
Throne, circular in form. Perhaps a space six feet 
square would contain the throne and the stool. All 

836 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


337 


inlaid with the most precious stones in the world of an 
aggregate value nearly equalling the Turkish debt. 
1 his throne was captured during a war with Persia 
nearly a century ago. The present government favors 
dismantling this throne and selling the jewels. To me, 
it seems a good financial move. 

It will be a wise move for the Turkish parliament 
to pass a law ordering the sale of these jewels. 

In this treasury are perhaps more than a hundred 
flint-lock rifles, the stocks running to the muzzle, made 
of pure ivory, inlaid with the most precious stones. It 
is easy to guess that one of these guns is worth sev¬ 
eral hundred thousand dollars. To behold them recalls 
Aladdin and his wonderful lamp. You wonder if 
these guns were ever in use, and what did Persia mean 
in putting such wealth in guns? for they, too, are the 
trophies of the war mentioned. One sword case and 
cane in the same collection runs in value into the mil¬ 
lions. 

The old Sultan so recently deposed, Abdul Hamid, 
was an avaricious man; he perhaps was totally without 
conscience. He was a despot who feared nothing while 
he held the reins and whip. He acquired untold 
wealth. He oppressed, not only his own people, but 
the whole nation to enlarge his wealth. He owned 
immense territories of land. He was so greedy that 
he kept the country in poverty that he might become 
richer. He had a horrid fear that others might make 
money that by his shrewdness he hoped to acquire. 
For more than thirty years did this despot wield his 
hand, benighting the country that he should protect 
and try to build up. Thus did he maintain the terri- 



338 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


torial integrity of his empire, while warding off the 
influence of other nations under promises nearly al¬ 
ways broken. 

The change of administration was like unto a dream. 
The old tyrant went to his usual rest after sunset, 
surrounded by a harem, supposed to contain between 
fifty and sixty of the picked beauties of his Empire. 
That night he had ten million dollars in his treasury, 
brought from the banks of Europe and America. 
The Sultan knew that trouble was brewing in his 
army and navy. He knew that it was the officers in 
the army and navy that were about to mutiny. He 
planned that all these officers should be assassinated 
that night; he paid the assassins who committed the 
deeds and, as a salve to the younger officers, they 
were to be immediately promoted. All this diabolic 
plot was literally executed, as planned. The Sultan’s 
mind was on the subject of this wholesale slaughter. 
He was not aware that there were contrived insurrec¬ 
tions elsewhere through the whole empire. The Sul¬ 
tan doubtlessly relished his breakfast next morning 
with a feeling that all danger was past, as he had the 
instruments of the cause of his trouble in the morgues, 
stiff and cold. This was on April 22d two years ago. 

The Turkish morning newspapers announced that 
the strong hand of the Sultan had put dowm all the 
trouble and everything was peaceful and safe. The 
Sultan did not know that the lives of the innocent, 
so cruelly slain by his command, were but fuel to the 
fires now burning, for freedom of the country from 
his tyranny. 

It is not known to history how he enjoyed that 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


339 


breakfast while these bodies were stiffening and yet 
unburied. Or how he enjoyed his dinner the previous 
night. But supposedly he had the favorites of his 
harem at a pink tea in honor of his restoration from 
all danger of an overthrow of power. We can imag¬ 
ine that the usual indulgences were not omitted, and 
that the aged but beastly para rested his head con¬ 
tentedly on his pillow of murderous sin, whether or 
not in his dreams he could see the streams of red 
blood that he caused to flow that night may never be 
known. But one thing is true, that very night the 
young Turks, under cover of darkness, marched their 
undrilled army into Constantinople, and never in the 
history of warfare was there a better regulated or 
more perfect plan of capture effected. 

The sun rose on April 23d and its first heat was 
cast upon the young soldiers of Turkey, as it de¬ 
scended the heavens it warmed for the first time in 
the world’s history, a new government for Turkey, 
organized by the people and for the people. The first 
news conveyed to the aged and bloody monarch was 
that his palace was surrounded by the soldiers of a 
new government; though not a new people. He tried 
an ineffectual escape with but nine of the ladies of his 
harem, but in vain. His treasury, with the ships, 
was in charge of the new government. The change 
was as complete as it was bloodless. Thus passed 
.Abdul Hamid, perhaps the most brutal tyrant that 
lived since the days of Nero. 

The mercenary soldiers, who, for gold and promise 
of promotion, so crully killed their officers, were at 
once put to death. 



340 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


Abdul Hamid now lives a prisoner a short distance 
from Constantinople; being allowed an annual income 
from the government for himself and nine wives, he 
is permitted to live within prison walls. 

A new regime prevails, the new government is true, 
permanently established; enlightened men who are for 
the betterment of Turkey are at the head of every 
department. They are honest, loyal and brave. They 
have shown themselves to be competent and thus far 
have acted in statesmanlike manner. Under the old 
rule Turks were prohibited fiom associating with 
foreigners and from holding public meetings. They 
could not leave the cities or villages in which they 
lived, or go upon public waterway without the per¬ 
mission of the government officials. 

I am writing these lines in an alcove on board our 
ship, forming part of a Social Hall, which is used as 
a Reception Hall, and now ten o'clock a. m. One of 
the highest officers of the Turkish government and 
his aids are having coffee with our Captain and other 
officers of the ship. A friendly call of the represen¬ 
tative of a local power with the officers of a touring 
ship of a nation in peace with this government. 

In assuming power, the new government found 
from six to ten times more officials than were needed. 
In the naval establishment Abdul Hamid had seven 
thousand officers and forty thousand soldiers, and 
scarcely a worthy sea-going ship. The house decora¬ 
tor of the Sultan was a Captain, and the musicians in 
his palace band were lieutenants or commanders. Thus 
were those eleven thousand men in and about the pal¬ 
ace kept friendly with the Sultan. 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


341 


The orgy of theft is over. The young Turks have 
opened Turkey to the world within the past two 
weeks. The parliament abolished the necessity of the 
use of passports heretofore so annoying to tourists. 
Now the commerce of the world is open to Turkey, 
and the great nations of the world have their repre¬ 
sentatives here at work. It is time that our own dear 
country should have a representative. For we manu¬ 
facture many things the Turks need, and the products 
of our fields and mines would find an open market 
here. It might be truthfully said we have no ships, 
but we could nevertheless ship our products here. 

I am informed that a great amount of licorice is 
used in the manufacture of tobacco by our American 
manufactories; this licorice is taken from a plant that 
grows here. Frenchmen have had very profitable to¬ 
bacco concessions in Turkey, but their contract is 
soon to expire. 

I am highly pleased to learn that the young Turks 
are very liberal in religious toleration. The present 
parliament were elected by a ballot from the voting 
precincts throughout the Empire. In Constantinople 
the ballot boxes were taken from the voting precincts 
to police headquarters in a parade of much ceremony, 
for this was the first incident in Turkish history of 
such an event. In all the carriages containing priests 
the Armenians (Christians) were given the seats of 
honor by the Turkish ecclesiastics, who willingly gave 
way to Christians. Although the Armenians are in 
minority in the population, they hold about one-fourth 
of the good offices in the new government. It is said 
the massacre at Aden was more racial than religious. 



342 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


This country, like our own country, has more or 
less bigotry and always will have, when people look at 
only one side of the picture and read only one side of 
religion. That broad field of reading is gradually 
becoming more universal and some day may wipe out 
bigotry. 

Constantinople is really a queer city. No other city 
in the world bears any resemblance to it. As you are 
aware, it is the Capital of the Ottoman Empire; is 
situated at the junction of the Bosporus and the Sea 
of Marmora, in latitude 41 ° o' 16" north longitude 
28 0 59' 14" east, and composed of three different 
cities: Stamboul, Galata-Pera, and Skute. The first 
two named are divided by the Golden Horn; while 
Skute lies on the Asiatic shore and is separated from 
the first two by the Bosporus. Constantinople proper 
occupies the site of the ancient Byzantine City, and 
like ancient Rome is built on the seven hills. On the 
first of these, on which stood the original city Byzan¬ 
tine, are the old Seraglio, the Mosque of St. Sophia, 
and the Hippodrome; on the second, the porphyry col¬ 
umn on the site of the ancient Forum of Constantine; 
nearly endless are these mosques and sites of ancient 
times. 

While Constantinople cannot claim to be the clean¬ 
est city in the world, it compares favorably with many 
cities in our own country. Nature has been most gen¬ 
erous in the favor that we tourists assign to the capi¬ 
tal of the Sultans, but it is by no means the most pic¬ 
turesque of the cities of the world. 

Constantinople has more than one million people, 
cosmopolitan, if you please, and may justly boast of 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


3 43 


what no other city can claim, it is situated on two 
different continents, Europe and Asia and constitutes 
the dividing line between west and east. This city 
truly baffles all attempts at description; and no pen can 
adequately convey to the mind any idea of the vis¬ 
ions before one’s eyes, standing as I have this morning 
on the hurricane deck of our big ship, now anchored 
in the middle of the swift flowing current coming 
out of the Black Sea, passing down the Bosporus into 
the Sea of Marmora. It is indeed like some en¬ 
chanted city. My eyes ran over the seven hills cov¬ 
ered with buildings of all characters, painted all col¬ 
ors imaginable, with few kiosk and few cypresses, then 
I saw the sharp points of the minarets and the glit¬ 
tering and imposing oval shaped roofs of the many 
mosques; the whole enveloped under the rays of not 
an overly warm sun, certainly presented a sight not 
easily forgotten. Such a scene would serve to magnify 
the beauties of a picture, with the soft blue Ori¬ 
ental sky in the background to give tone to the mind 
of an artist competent to perform such a hard task. 
I turn to the left and look down the quick flowing 
waves of the Bosporus, out into the quiet limpid 
waters of the Sea of Marmona, and wonder in 
thought at the many thousand ships of war that have 
been sent out in that direction never to return. About 
a month ago we met three men-of-war and the three 
troop transports all passing through Suez Canal on 
their way to the Red Sea to fight the Arabs. The 
boys (for most of the young soldiers are but mere 
boys), were cheering aloud, perhaps but few will ever 
return through the canal that De Lesseps made fa- 



344 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


mous by his wonderful engineering powers. But such 
is life in the far off east. 

It may be of interest to the reader to know that tra¬ 
dition assigns the foundation of this city to a band 
of settlers from Megara, under a leader named Byzas, 
in 658 B. C. The oracle of Apollo at Delphia, which 
they consulted, foretold that those who set out would 
be certain to prosper on the Thracian shore. Legend 
has it that they were butchering an ox, when a crow 
swooped down and carried off a piece of the meat, 
which a shepherd subsequently told them the bird 
dropped at Cape Bosporus. The Megarians, taking 
this act of the bird as a good omen, built a city here, 
now a city of one million two hundred thousand souls. 



CHAPTER XXXV 


BURIAL AT SEA 

There is always a feeling of sadness connected 
with death. One does not have to be of kin to the 
departed to have this feeling. The presence of death 
refreshes the mind of what some day we, too, will 
have to meet. Should one have his choice, he perhaps 
would be buried by his dear ones in some beautiful 
shaded cemetery where his friends may chance to 
walk, and with pride point to the inscription on his 
tomb, as they recall the ennobling qualities of the de¬ 
parted. Large amounts of money are annually ex¬ 
pended by many people in beautifying burial grounds. 
We have great respect for those who adorn the city 
of the dead. These grounds are consecrated by some 
religious denominations. It is a beautiful mark of re¬ 
spect to the dead. It recalls the two impressive lines: 

“ At rest on the tombs of the knightly race, 

The silent throngs of that burial place.” 

But in the boundless ocean there is no way to mark 
the burial place; no tomb inscription to tell the good 
qualities of the one consigned to the markless grave; 
no fence surrounding the spot where his remains went 
down. The Christian thought that the soulless flesh 

345 



346 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


went down and the spirit up, wipes away much thought 
of sorrow. 

But few tourists ever know when there is a death 
on the ship. In fact, they rarely ever know when a 
passenger is very sick. Yet, there are more deaths 
at sea than any one w^ould suppose. There are good 
reasons for this. Many invalids hopelessly incurable, 
as a last resort go to sea hoping it may help them. I 
have seen them carried on stretchers. I have seen the 
boat land on the other side and no one was carried 
off the boat. What is the inference? Somewhere on 
the voyage he departed this life and then-. 

Being of an inquiring mind, and feeling it a part 
of my duty to give all incidents of the tour, impelled 
me to believe that a burial seen at sea would be a sub¬ 
ject of worthy consideration, never having read of 
such an occurrence and having witnessed a burial on 
a former crossing of the Atlantic on a big liner. 
Through the proper authority I was permitted to see 
a body wrapped round and round with heavy, thick 
blankets, and then tied around by small ropes, over 
which w r as placed a chain netting so permanently fast¬ 
ened as to insure its safety against every outward at¬ 
tack, excepting alone the penetration of w T ater. This 
seemed humane, as globe trotters have an aversion to 
seeing sharks or hearing the music of their flapping 
tails as they pursue a ship in great schools. It is then 
comes the timid fear of the death of some one on 
board, as the howling of a dog near the home of an 
invalid is regarded as a bad omen and encourages 
sorrowful forebodings. I myself am not entirely free 
from such superstition. 




THE GLOBE TROTTER 


347 


Referring back to my first experience, I recall that 
the corpse was thus prepared in the “dead room,” 
and the door then closed and locked. Just preceding 
the noon of night, I was privileged to witness the un¬ 
locking of the door and seeing four athletic sailors 
carry the body out to the side of the boat. The chains 
were fastened to a tipping or rocking set of cranes, 
one fastened to either side of the great iron door in 
the side of the ship. The heavy iron bars holding 
the door securely shut were lifted, the grating of these 
bars sent a cold shudder through my entire body. 
The iron door was pushed outward on its creaking 
hinges, exposing the beautiful green moonlit sea in 
all its grandeur. It was indeed a beautiful night, full 
moon, only occasionally concealed by a passing white 
cloud, out seemingly to cast its veil of shadow where 
a markless grave was soon to be. I noticed, that as 
soon as the ship’s door swung open, without any other 
signal, and as if by the movement of a single hand, all 
hats of those present were at once removed. A short 
prayer by the ship’s chaplain, a rest on our knees, 
then a long painful silence—a silence that grew mo¬ 
notonous. I whispered to one of the boat’s physicians 
asking the reason of the pause. He replied that they 
were waiting the ship’s bell to proclaim the hour of 
twelve. 

As I looked at the corpse, my mind wandered back 
in imagination to where he was born, how fondled by 
a father and tenderly covered by a loving mother, 
that the winds of heaven may not visit his face too 
roughly. How she would step lightly and tread in 
softness, that his sleep be not disturbed. Now cold 



348 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


in death, he died a stranger among strangers. I 
know there was one present who breathed this silent 
prayer: “Peace to your soul, and may God pity thee.” 
In silent anguish we waited for the tolling of the mid¬ 
night bell. We had but a few minutes to wait. The 
bell tolled the hour of midnight. Just that moment, 
as the engineers way down in the engine room must 
have been foretold, the screw propellors ceased their 
motion. The machinery of the ship was silent; every¬ 
thing was still as death. The momentum of the ship 
was yet driving her through the waters, but we were 
several hundred feet from the ship’s front and could 
not hear her cutting the water. Still we stood as im¬ 
movable statues, hatless, speechless and noiselessly 
looking out on the deep, cold waters, to which we were 
about to intrust the body of a fellow traveler. Soon 
the ship became motionless. The chaplain stepped 
forward and again offered up another short prayer, 
beseeching clemency for the departed soul. Stepping 
backward, the crane lifted all that was mortal, then 
swung it out from the ship and there held it in its 
iron grasp, a signal was given, the pulleys slowly let 
down the precious burden, down—down—deep into 
the water, a half-circular motion loosened it from its 
grasp. Time was given the body to sink far beneath 
the ship, the crane was swung back to place, the big 
door drawn in, the levers bolted down. Every man 
present still stood motionless. An electric button was 
touched, the big liner began to move her propellors. 
The service over, the sailors disappeared and I walked 
with the chaplain and the physician up to the smoking 
room, first having my mouth sealed as to what I saw 




THE GLOBE TROTTER 


349 


by the admonition of the physician. We found but 
a few gentlemen there, some reading, others playing 
cards, and all inquiring why the boat stopped, wonder¬ 
ing why, etc. But the doctor and I had only words 
of wonder. I did not desire sleep for I was still think¬ 
ing of the one who was then taking his long sleep. 
My mind wandered in reverie. 

In the present may be seen the shadows of the past, 
as the light of what is now happening foretells the 
future—reflecting on the pages of history yet to be 
written, words that will have new meaning. 

The advancement in the mechanism and the con¬ 
struction of great sea-going crafts and the application 
of scientific appliances thereto attached, such as wire¬ 
less telegraphy, life-saving devices, foretells the vast 
work of the future in preservation of life of the trav¬ 
elling public, and assures us that man’s ingenuity will 
make our greatest achievements of the present age, 
which now seem insignificant in the near future. It 
was but a few years ago that the Great Eastern was 
built. Though two hundred feet shorter in length and 
twenty feet narrower of beam, she was unmanageable 
because of the lack of motive power and other ma¬ 
chinery not then thought of, but now in common use 
on the big liners. 

Perhaps it is better that we should not know what 
is to happen until our minds expand to the greatness 
of what we now dare not hope; until then, all thoughts 
of what greatness the future will produce must neces¬ 
sarily vanish; we will die and be born again, with 
new brains of sufficient magnitude to grasp the matur¬ 
ing wants of advanced civilization. 

o 




350 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


To achieve the wonders in store for coming gen¬ 
erations, we must yield to and suffer many successive 
disappointments. Greatness does not voluntarily roll 
to our feet, unfold its wings and say: “Here I am.” 
Great events are not accomplished in idleness, in im¬ 
proper indulgences or in sleep. It is successive dis¬ 
appointments that impel men of deep thought to ever 
work on until their ideals are realities and, figuratively 
speaking, talk back to the Master Producer; as the po¬ 
tatoes through their silent eyes look admiringly into 
the honest hardworking face of Burbank, the wizard 
of vegetation and fruit; the seedless orange with its 
coat yellow as gold drop from the tree into his open 
hand, and offer the richness of its heart to him, as a 

- 

reward for its culture and improvement; the thornless 
cactus looks up smilingly and says to Mr. Burbank, 
“Sit down with us, roll on us, make us into a bed, 
we will not hurt you. Until you came to us we were 
always enemies to the world; you civilized us, now 
we are friends to all the world and all that lives and 
moves within.” Edison caught the lightning from the 
clouds and undertook to chain it to the earth only 
to find by tireless study that the earth had more elec¬ 
tricity than the heavens above. He had studied the 
nature and movements of that invisible somethine un- 
til it is his dearest friend. He bottles it up, corks it 
tight, but it gets away from him. He knows it will. 
He puts it into jars and gives it sulphuric acid to 
drink but still it lives and is not contented to remain; 
he puts it into dry batteries, it is not content and 
again escapes, but he puts it into use while he controls 
it. Science will not attain its height until electric cur- 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


851 


rents are held in control and worked at will, hal¬ 
tered and stabled, curried and fed, the feed that nature 
in its divine wisdom so provides. As I have uninten¬ 
tionally wandered from my subject, permit me to add 
these few words: that the two greatest men born the 
last century were Burbank and Edison, sent here, as 
I firmly believe, by the Overruling Power to bring 
forth for the use of and betterment of man, that which 
these great geniuses have accomplished, and I hope 
and pray that they will remain on earth for many 
years, so long in the future that what they have now 
accomplished will at the time of their departure seem 
primitive. 

The genius that moved the world a century ago can¬ 
not be compared to the brains that direct its move¬ 
ment now. The brains of to-day cannot be compared 
with the expected enlightenment and genius a cen¬ 
tury hence. The steady advancement of mechanism, 
engineering, art, science and a thousand other things 
unheard of and which will find a useful place in the 
workings of the world’s cabinet of wants, moves one 
to think that our mental incapacity to-day to bring 
forth unthought of accomplishments is inadequate to 
understand what we hope for by the inventive gen¬ 
iuses of and discoveries of the future; and could not 
now be believed if foretold. When God designs a 
man for an illustrious work, he exhibits him in the 
garb and stature of an ordinary being. He invests 
him with a brain longing to accomplish something that 
. others failed to accomplish, or something then un¬ 
thought of. He seemingly throws obstructions in his 
way; these obstructions encourage the genius to work 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


352 

on until the object is finally accomplished. Then does 
the reputation of this man shine in all its glittering 
glory, as an exponent of all that is great and receives 
from posterity the tribute of its praise. 




CHAPTER XXXVI 


MESSINA 

We dropped anchor at seven o’clock a. m., March 
28th, in the harbor of the ill-fated city of Messina, 
which but two and half years ago was perhaps the 
finest city in Europe of its size, with 200,000 popu¬ 
lation. Some of its streets are one hundred feet wide, 
some eighty feet, some sixty feet in width, all paved 
with wide flat stone. 

We drove in carriages through such streets as are 
opened, but many of the streets are yet from five to 
twenty feet deep in broken brick, pulverized mortar 
and stones. 

To remove this debris would take many weeks. 
There is no place nearby to throw the dirt. The 
debris in the street in front has been cleared and must 
be kept clear to permit travel. I see but one practical 
way to clear away the ruins. That is to lay a tem¬ 
porary railroad track in the streets and load the 
debris on a train and then dump it out somewhere in 
the country. The city proper is full of rubbish. 

Strange to say we found a very large cemetery with 
high stone walls about it. There is not a visible crack 
in the walls and no evidence of destruction inside. 
This cemetery has some of the finest massive marble 
statuary we saw in the whole trip. We saw some 

353 


354 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


marble statuary, double natural size, that would seem¬ 
ingly take but little pressure to tip off of their foun¬ 
dations, but they are unmolested. We then went be¬ 
yond the cemetery and found the same kind of de¬ 
struction that we found all our way from the har¬ 
bor to the cemetery. It seems it must have been or¬ 
dained by the Ever Ruling Power that this visitation 
should not disturb the city of the dead. 

We then turned our course and came through what 
the natives call the American colony, meaning the vil¬ 
lage of small one-story frame houses, built by the con¬ 
tribution in lumber and money by our government as 
soon as ships could transport it from the eastern coast 
shores. These little cottages are full of people. Pass¬ 
ing these we again enter into that part of the city 
where no one lives and in which no lives were saved. 
As we walked over these ruins where the crushed 
rock, sand and occasionally a stick of timber and bent 
cross iron beams literally covered the ground, my 
mind recalled Goldsmith’s poem of “The Deserted 
Village,” but I cannot remember enough about it to 
write that part so applicable to this place. I have in 
mind four lines, which I here inscribe and let the 
reader guess the name of the author: 

When that which we mortals thought, 

We say so near destruction brought, 

We felt what you did not then endure, 

And we tremble yet, as not secure. 

Perhaps the mind was to some extent inspired in 
writing the above because the night before last quite 
a little earthquake stirred this city. It did net cause 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


355 


any fright, as there is but little here now to be 
ruined. 

It is estimated that at least seventy-five thousand 
bodies are yet in the ruins. Men are still digging. I 
am surprised that Italy does not send men here to 
clean out the ruins, bury the dead and start the city 
anew*. 

Despair is seen in every direction. A solemn, 
strange and mingled air, as much as to say, “why try 
to build up the city again? forgetting the injunction: 
“All earth He gave to possess and to rule.” It was 
truly here that nature triumphed over man’s art and 
labor and with the thunder of a moment’s shock un¬ 
did what it took man over twenty-seven hundred years 
to build. Messina was founded 730 B. C., by 
Cumaean pirates on the site of a Scillian town. About 
493 B. C., fugitives from Samoa and Miletus took 
possession of the then defenceless town. The Sara¬ 
cens took the town A. D. 1843, an d it subsequently 
became the first Norman conquest. The crusaders 
that did not leave Sicily unaffected contributed to the 
rapid increase of the prosperity of the city. It has 
been shot into by so many invaders, captured and re¬ 
captured, impoverished by war and by pirates that 
the history is one series of destruction and rebuild¬ 
ing. In 1672 the Merli, at first victorious, expelled 
the Spanish garrison and defended themselves heroi¬ 
cally against an overwhelming force. To save the city 
from capture the city sued for the aid of Louis XIV, 
who sent an army and fleet to conquer the island. In 
this, however, he was unsuccessful, notwithstanding 
the victory gained by Duquesne over the Spanish and 



356 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


Dutch fleets. During the eighteenth century the city 
was overtaken by two overwhelming calamities—a 
fearful plague in 1740 of which 40,000 persons died, 
and an earthquake in 1783. The city lies on the line 
of contact of the primary and secondary formation, 
on which boundary earthquakes between SEena and 
Vesuvius are always most violent. The severe bom¬ 
bardment of September 3, 1848, also caused great 
damage, and in 1854, the cholera carried off 16,000 
victims. 

I give this short historical sketch more to show 
why the people do not care to rebuild the city than 
to recall its past history. It produced three great 
men—Dicalarchus the historian, Euhemeras the phil¬ 
osopher and Antonelle the painter. 

One of the largest buildings destroyed in the last 
earthquake was La Matrice, the cathedral, an edifice 
of the Norman period. It was begun in 1098 and 
completed in 1254. It had arches made semi-circular 
and all the walls covered with stucco. In 1783 the 
campanile and the transept were ruined by an earth¬ 
quake. Traces of the Romanesque and Gothic periods 
are recognizable even in the ruins yet standing. The 
form of the building is that of a Latin cross, three 
hundred and five feet in length and across the tran¬ 
septs one hundred and forty-five feet in width. The 
tasteful entraner facade on which are small reliefs 
with artful scenes of civil life and symbolical repre¬ 
sentations in early Gothic. These evidences of what 
it was before it was ruined in the quake stand out 
as though to say: “See what I was!” A marble 
statue of John the Baptist and twenty-two granite 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


357 


columns with Byzantine capitals, which, in the glory 
of their magnificence, once supported the roof and 
which are said to have one time supported the Temple 
of Neptune near the Faro. In 1628 an altar was put 
in the cathedral at a cost of 3,825,000 francs, or $765,- 
000. Looking up through the debris it presents but 
a dim picture of what it once was. It is claimed that 
the mosaics in the apses date from the thirteenth cen¬ 
tury. In the transept was a Renaissance altar of 
1530. Adjacent to the altar was a figure of Christ. 
Opposite are tombs of cardinals of the sixteenth cen¬ 
tury. I could not ascertain the cost of the cathedral. 
Perhaps no one knows. It must have been in the mil¬ 
lions. 

Nearby this cathedral was a library with thirty-five 
thousand volumes and seven hundred and seventy- 
eight manuscripts, a natural history collection and a 
room with antiquities and scriptures. These last in¬ 
cluded a Roman sarcophagus, with Daedalus and 
Icarus, having Greek and Arabic inscriptions. 

The mountains behind the city bear the name of 
the Antevnamare, the highest peak being 3,705 feet. 
On the opposite side of the strait are the Calabrian 
mountains, on which are forts. 

In going east on our voyage more than six weeks 
ago, we passed this place a little before sunrise. The 
ship slowed up so those of us who were up at the 
time could see the ruins, which many of us did, re¬ 
maining up to view the Sicilian coast and mountains 
and the majestic SEtna, which we reached just at sun¬ 
rise, having to round GEtna in order to see the sun, 
for you must know that ^Etna is a little more than 



358 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


two miles high. She was asleep when we passed that 
morning. Yes, she is slumbering with more than 
one mile of snow from her crest downward, peaceful 
if you have it. But think how long that snow would 
last if she woke up and got busy as she has so often 
done heretofore, for no one knows when her dys¬ 
peptic old stomach will become foul and for imme¬ 
diate relief she makes the world know that she still 
has a temper of her own. Passing 7E tna going east 
I have already said she was silent. On our return 
she was emitting a harmless smoke. Whether or not 
she is getting ready to send a blaze heavenward we 
do not know. In any event the sight of i£tna is a 
picture never to be forgotten. A grandeur in magni¬ 
tude rarely to be equalled. We noticed very dis¬ 
tinctly two layers of clouds below her crest. There 
must be a circular current around her great body, 
for clouds seemingly float about just for company 
sake. But perhaps these upper and colder currents of 
air come in contact with the lower and warmer one, 
making a mist that develops into clouds. By the aid 
of strong glasses we could see the snow blowing into 
great drifts high up on her rounded sides. 


Like a leviathan, this grand mountain stands, 

Though the world in one great force united into one band. 
Her lofty grandeur, impenetrable strength unbent, 

A combination of power and height from Heaven sent. 

You will pardon this poetic effusion, but I know 
of no better way to express my feelings. Perhaps I 
have seen higher mountains, but there is something 
about the grandeur of z£tna that peculiarly attracts 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


359 


my attention. It has a regal figure. The glittering 
frozen snow is dazzling to behold. As our boat 
passed on I stood aft and watched through my glasses 
until this grand old mountain, antedating man as it 
now is in prehistoric ages, faded away in the far-off 
distance, a cloud like that of night separated us, yet 
it was a time of the sun’s first appearance after its 
slumber. Grandeur, grandeur, I heard myself mur- » 
mur as I passed down from the hurricane deck of the 
big steamer into the promenade deck, where the tour¬ 
ists were making their first rounds, sniffing the ozone 
of the strait of Messina. Why they were not all out 
to see TEtna clothed in crystal splendor I could not 
understand. People see things differently. Hundreds 
slumbered while passing y£tna. Many others simply 
glanced at it and then passed on, laughing and romp¬ 
ing like school children, and others of such vinegar 
aspect that they will not show their teeth in the way of 
a smile. Nature has framed strange people in her 
time. I would not expect all people to be like me, or 
to be clothed in sable in every scene and see as I 
see. Though out for pleasure I am not always pleas¬ 
ure bent. If on my way to a wedding I would not 
fear to tarry to help one in trouble, and then again 
to plunge into the crowd where revel calls and the 
echo of laughter prevailed. 

Life is made of storms and sunshines. If it were 
not for the storm we can guess how monotonous the 
sunshine would be. This is an ocean voyage. We 
have storm and a majority of the tourists scuddle to 
their state-rooms. We have calm and sunshine and 
the decks are full of merry-makers. In less than an 



360 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


hour the waves begin to lash the ship’s iron sides, the 
ship begins to toss and roll and our minds begin to 
think that happiness is but a glittering dream. Like 
a summer’s sun, all promise happiness. In its noon¬ 
tide strength, in its fruitage, its humility, in glory, 
tranquillity, but let the evening settle with its work 
well done. 

Our dragoman showed us where a large theatre 
stood. Part of the walls are still standing as white 
ghosts marking the spot where once stood one of the 
most costly theatres in Europe. It was in the month 
of October, 1909, and its duration of destruction 
lasted but thirty-five seconds. At the hour of ten 
o’clock in the evening, during a performance, there 
were five thousand people, some dressed in their best 
clothes to witness a performance of a very large theat¬ 
rical company. The performance was at the full¬ 
ness of its splendor. The spectators were amazed at 
the technic of dramatic situations. Compliments were 
freely exchanged. Baskets of native flowers were 
passed over the footlights to its favorites. Everything 
went on as merry as a marriage bell. The curtain 
was rung up on the third act. For the last time the 
actors resumed their places. The scene was on in all 
the majesty of its perfection. A rumbling sound was 
heard beneath the building that recalled former hor¬ 
rors. Every actor was now a living statue. The au¬ 
dience rose to their feet. Every eye was leaden, every 
mouth breathless. The terror was now too great to 
run. All stood motionless for the rumbling beneath 
was like unto thunder rarely ever heard. In just 
thirty-five seconds the souls of one hundred and 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


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twenty actors and five thousand auditors were wing¬ 
ing their way heavenward. No effort has yet been 
made to remove a body. 

After spending a whole day walking as well as 
driving over the ruins of Messina I have come to the 
conclusion that the city should be rebuilt. If rebuilt, 
it should be rebuilt of steel or of wood. If of wood, 
it should be one-story buildings. Its peculiar situa¬ 
tion gives it many advantages. Lying on a grand 
plateau between the strait bearing its own name and 
the high mountains in the rear, behind which lie the 
rich Sicilian fields, the products of which find ready 
sale in Messina. It also has one of the best harbors 
in the world. Then, too, the patriotism of the peo¬ 
ple should stimulate the needy movement. Here is 
the place for another Descartes, who was famed for 
building new worlds, to rebuild Messina. It does not 
need another Newton to discover and establish the 
true laws of nature and a sublime geometry. Plenty 
here who know of these arts. What Messina needs 
is a man of force and character who does not believe 
that the 75,000 bodies beneath the fallen debris “are 
sufficiently buried,” a man who can direct all his 
thoughts and his actions to the good of the city. I 
believe that if a splendid brass band could be brought 
here and marched in the streets and give morning and 
evening concerts it would inspire patriotism in the 
people, without which the city will never be rebuilt. 
When such a man forms even political schemes and 
adjusts various and seemingly independent parts in 
it to one great and good design he is transported by 
imagination and the satisfaction that arises from dif- 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


862 

ferent importances of the objects before him. Whilst 
a great event is being wrought the action warms and 
the very suspense, made up of hopes and fear, main¬ 
tains no unpleasing* agitation in the mind. If the 
event is decided successfully such a man enjoys pleas¬ 
ure proportionate to the good he has done, a pleas¬ 
ure like to that which is attributed to the Supreme 
Being surveying His own works. If the efforts to re¬ 
build the city fail such a man has the testimony of 
his conscience and a sense of the honor attending his 
efforts to soothe his mind and support his courage. 
I do not believe, like Seneca, that the noblest spectacle 
which God can behold is a good man suffering de¬ 
feat. But I do recall that the second Cato, driven out 
of the forum and dragged to the prison, enjoyed more 
inward pleasure and maintained more outward dig¬ 
nity that they who insulted him. 

Here is an opportunity for a strong and vigorous 
mind to build a great city where the foundation is al¬ 
ready made, the resources to maintain it, a harbor 
made and a market to the world at its front. I can 
see that great phantom of which we hear so much and 
see so little, that oftentimes cheats us with the sound 
instead of the substance, and with the blossom in¬ 
stead of the fruit. Like Juno, she is a goddess in 
pursuit, but a cloud in possession, defied by those 
who cannot enjoy her and despised by those who can. 
Anticipation is her herald, but disappointment is her 
companion. The first addresses itself to our imagin¬ 
ation, that would believe, but the latter to our experi¬ 
ence, that must. 

The people of Messina feel they are at the bottom of 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


363 


an abyss. Terror has before visited them. Terror has 
long since been terrible. They, too, have heretofore 
been born again, and again destroyed; but to the act¬ 
ors themselves it has now become manifest that their 
appointed course is one of terror that they say, “Be it 
so.” “Que la terreur soit a l’ordre du jour.” When 
the phenomena of earthquakes continue in their pri¬ 
mary course there will be terrors along these histori¬ 
cal shores. Heaven only knows when these phe¬ 
nomena will, if ever, cease, or when there will be ter¬ 
rors or horrors enough. It may be when some ac¬ 
credited scientific law of nature might suffice for the 
unexpected product of nature. Then history may by 
inference bear profit from it. Until then there will 
be danger and terror. 

We will steam out of the straits at the hour of 
6:30 p. m., and will be due in the Bay of Palermo at 
seven o’clock to-morrow morning, where we will re¬ 
main all day visiting the city of Palermo, the capital 
of Sicily, having a population of two hundred and 
fifty thousand souls. It is the military, judicial and 
ecclesiastical headquarters of the island. 



CHAPTER XXXVII 


ART 

Art is the visible expression of the sublime and 
beautiful. Art gives to the lifeless the appearance of 
life. The painter who can paint one’s picture, however 
true to facial form, but without giving to that picture 
a life-like expression, is simply a mechanic, and not 
an artist. I am pleased to say that I believe I have 
visited and carefully examined all the largest and 
most noted Art Galleries in Europe, Egypt, Africa, 
Palestine and Turkey, and from what I have seen I 
have come to the conclusion that any one whose 
means or time may be limited, a visit to Rome, Flor¬ 
ence, Venice, the Luxemburg and Louvre in Paris, and 
the Musee National of Versailles, will have seen all 
the paintings and sculptures that any one will care 
ever to see. These art emporiums contain works of 
the greatest geniuses of all ages whose works are 
now in existence. In saying this I am not taking a 
rose from the gardens of other galleries, for there 
are many good ones in Naples, Seville, London, Ber¬ 
lin, Athens, and too many other cities to mention. 

Perhaps the greatest works of the greatest masters 
can be found in the Vatican in Rome. I presume this 
statement as a fact will not be disputed by any one. 
Language is inadequate to describe the grandeur of 

364 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


365 


its treasures. In the marble galleries in Rome, it is 
visibly plain that all sculpture work on which the most 
aesthetic could have a claim of the immodesty of the 
nude, has been modernized under the administration 
of Pope Leo XIII. Perhaps, because of the location 
of these works of art, changes made by his direction 
were well founded. Otherwise it would not be. 

Paintings and sculpture work of male and female 
in the nude, do not subject either to immodest or in¬ 
delicate reference. Great painters and sculptors of 
the past, in presenting their historical heroes, espe¬ 
cially of antiquity, on canvas or in marble, had too 
exalted opinions of the perfection of man and woman 
not to make their subject true to nature. This can¬ 
not be termed immodest or indelicate—since the 
beauty and perfection of form is necessary to the phy¬ 
sical perfection of man or woman. Time and again 
I have noticed modest and pure faced women of all 
ages, lingering about marble statuary portraying the 
finest developed subjects of manhood. The physical 
more than the mental perfection of the subjects is 
jotted down on their books. 

The artists and the lovers of art, do not object to 
the nudity of art. The objections to art in the nude 
is made by the inartistic people, and also, the ignorant 
in the requirements of what is necessary to make the 
perfection of a subject. 

You have seen the pictures of Apollo, without arms 
or legs, but all enlightened people know that his limbs 
were perfect. Many people can afford to buy a mar¬ 
ble head and chest of Apollo to put on a mantle, who 
could not afford to buy a life-size marble statue of 



366 . 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


Apollo for a parlor ornament. But a limbless statue 
of some great military or athletic hero subject would 
not be correct, without showing the perfection of his 
physical organism. 

I remember going in to see a life-sized painting in 
the nude, of a woman who was supposed to be physi¬ 
cally perfect in features as well as form. This paint¬ 
ing was of a young and beautiful woman of twenty. 
Thousands of men and women went to see the paint¬ 
ing. It was exhibited apparently on a pedestal about 
three feet from the floor, and about two feet from a 
rear wall. The gallery chairs being all filled by guests, 
the lights were all turned off; darkness was master. 
The curtain was then run up, side lights and ceiling* 
lights so reflected on the picture, making this work 
of art so life-like, that seemingly it could step down 
from the pedestal. A piece of carpet on the floor, 
the width of the painting, apparently extended from 
the floor up over the apparent pedestal with such per¬ 
fection of similarity in color as to induce an observer 
to think, in reality that there were in fact a pedestal 
there covered by the end of the floor carpet. No one 
would guess that the painting was nearer than two 
feet from the wall. Many guessed that it was three 
feet from the wall. Then all the lights were thrown 
on in the auditorium and the opinion of the auditors 
remained unchanged. Any one not knowing this sub¬ 
ject of curiosity was a painting would be willing to 
swear that it was a living woman. 

The audience was then permitted to walk up to 
the picture, and not until many of them placed their 
hands on the wall did they believe the canvas was 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


367 


against the wall, and the floor carpet extended only 
to the picture. The blending of colors and proper 
shading of colors constituted the deceptive qualities 
of this great work of art. 

I saw the great painting of Cleopatra from her 
bath. I saw the painting of Venus of Milo reclining 
on her couch. These paintings of the nude present 
the physical perfection of these historical beauties de¬ 
parted from this life centuries ago. We do not look 
on them with animal curiosity. I have viewed the 
subjects of these two great paintings, also their per¬ 
fections sculptured in white marble. I was aware I 
was not looking at woman, but cold lifeless marble; 
and on the paintings unsensual canvas, and I see in 
these marbles and paintings, not woman, but the per¬ 
fection of the beauty of nature, wrought by mallet 
and chisel, and paint and brush guided by the hand 
and brain of the genius of man. 

This is true art, art of man, which but a few peo¬ 
ple possess, which adds to the intrinsic value of their 
works. 



CHAPTER XXXVIII 


PALERMO 

It was daylight when we went to anchor in the 
Bay of Palermo. The winds were howling in their 
madness. 

Palermo is situated in 38° 6' 44" north latitude, 
on the west side of the Bay of Palermo, which opens 
toward the east, and is enclosed by the fertile plain of 
Conca d’Oro, beyond which rises an amphitheatre of 
imposing mountains. On the north the city is shel¬ 
tered by the finely shaped Monte Pellegrino, oppo¬ 
site which, on the east, lies the Monte Catalfono. 
Palermo is justly entitled to the epithet “la felici,” on 
account of its magnificent situation and delightful 
climate. 

The city has two hundred and fifty thousand peo¬ 
ple. It is the military, judicial, and ecclesiastical 
headquarters of the island, and possesses one of the 
seven principal universities. It is a large and very 
important commercial port. It exports sulphur, wine, 
oranges and lemons. The harbor has evidence of life. 
It is here that we find the last vestiges of the ancient 
papyrus growing. 

The wind remained so high all day, that nearing 
our boat with lighters was rendered too dangerous for 

368 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


369 


safety to life. We had to content ourselves with 
ocular appearance and historical facts we learned. 

By the aid of strong field glasses we could easily 
see that, of the cities of the world, this is truly one 
of the important factors. It has large churches and 
cathedrals that cost from hundreds of thousands of 
dollars into perhaps millions. 

The beautiful gardens and its environs add greatly 
to its charms as a residence. Picturesque scenes of 
popular life may be witnessed about the market places. 
The two-wheeled peasant's carts used in Palermo and 
in fact through Sicily, are attractively painted and 
adorned with elaborate historical scenes and legends. 

Palermo was originally a Phoenician settlement, 
and until it was captured in B. C. 254 by the Romans, 
was one of the most important strongholds of the 
Carthaginians. It afterwards belonged to the Romans 
and was colonized by Augustus. 

In A. D. 535 a fleet under Belisarius captured the 
city from the Goths, and thenceforth it remained un¬ 
der Byzantine emperors till the arrival of the Arabs 
in 830, who made it their capital. In 1072 the Nor¬ 
mans obtained possession of it, and in 1193 ^ ie Ger¬ 
mans subdued it. The Chiaramonte, powerful feudal 
barons and counts of Modica, who erected a spacious 
palace for themselves at Palermo, were long the real 
rulers of the city. It was not until the fifteenth cen¬ 
tury that Palermo began to recover from the suffer¬ 
ings of this long period of anarchy. The Spanish 
Viceroys of Sicily selected this city as their residence, 
and the nobles and clergy of their court contributed 
to swell its magnificence and gaiety. In 1798 and 



370 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


again in i860 the Neapolitan court took refuge in 
Palermo; and Ferdinand I resided here until 1815. 
The Sicilian parliament met here in 1812. In i860 
Garibaldi drove out the Bourbons and Italy has gov¬ 
erned Sicily ever since. 

From a photograph album and also a local guide 
book of Palermo we gather many interesting facts of 
the city. We find: 

“That in 1132 King Roger II built the Coppella 
Palatina in Arabic-Norman style and dedicated it to 
St. Peter. The whole building with its mosaic dec¬ 
orations is a perfect gem of medieval art, perhaps the 
most beautiful palace-chapel in the world. The vesti¬ 
bule, embellished with modern mosaics, forms the re¬ 
mains of a porticus, which at one time surrounded the 
entire chapel; of its seven columns six are of Egyp¬ 
tian granite. To the left is an inscription on the wall 
in Latin, Greek and Arabic, referring to the erection 
of a clock in 1142. 

The walls are entirely covered with g*lass mo¬ 
saics on a golden ground and radiant with Oriental 
splendor. These represent subjects from the Old 
Testament, and the lives of Christ, St. Peter and St. 
Paul. The most antique are those of the chair, which, 
with the exception of the Madonna, completed in mod¬ 
ern times, date from the reign of King Roger. Christ 
is represented here in the style which recurs in all 
Norman mosaics. 

Another grand edifice, the Cathedral, was erected 
in 1169-85. It contains the Tombs of the Kings. 
Here, in admirably executed sarcophagi of porphyry, 
surmounted by canopies, repose: Emperor Frederick 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


371 


II; to the right, his father, Henry VI; behind, to the 
left, King Roger; to the right, his daughter Con¬ 
stance, wife of Henry VI, in a sarcophagus adorned 
with an eagle. In a niche to the left is the sarco¬ 
phagus of William, son of Frederick III of Aragon. 
On the left wall of the chapel, to the left of the 
tombs, is a painting of Cecilia, with a charming angel 
playing the lute. 

Palermo has more fine churches and public build¬ 
ings and botanical gardens than any other city of 
like size on the globe. 

The wind blew a steady gale all day, making it quite 
impossible to go ashore, as much as we all wanted 
to do so. 

The rocking motion of a ship at anchor when af¬ 
fected by a wind storm, is quite different from the 
motion of a ship in open sea. Many of the passengers 
were sea-sick, and were glad when anchor was drawn 
in and the ship piloted out into the open sea for our 
next port, Naples. 

It was three o’clock in the afternoon when the ship 
was under full speed, and the mountains of Sicily in 
an hour became distant objects of unimportant view. 
Many of my fellow tourists who became sick in the 
anchored bay were out inhaling the ozone of the salted 
air of the sea. 



CHAPTER XXXIX 


NAPLES 

We went to sleep in the open ocean, and awoke 
next morning cabled to the wharf in Naples. We 
found ourselves surrounded by ships of many nations. 

This is truly a great commercial port, more ships 
trading with the South American cities than any¬ 
where else. We remained here four days and nights, 
and but partially saw the city and its suburbs. 

Naples, formerly the capital of the kingdom of the 
Two Sicilies, and since i860 the chief town of a 
province in the kingdom of Italy, is the largest and 
most populous city in Italy, and disputes with Con¬ 
stantinople the claim of occupying the most beautiful 
site in Europe. It is situated on the northern shore of 
the Bay of Naples, in 40° 52' north latitude, and 
14 0 15' 45" east longitude, as taken from the light¬ 
house on the mole. By rail it is distant one hundred 
and sixty-one miles from Rome. 

No other place in the world combines within the 
same compass so much natural beauty, with so many 
objects of interest to the antiquarian, the historian, 
and the geologist, as the Bay of Naples. Its circuit 
is about thirty-five miles from the Capo di Miseno, on 
the northwest, to the Punta della Campanella, on the 
southeast, or more than fifty-two miles, if the islands 

372 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


873 


of Ischia, at the northwest, and of Capri, at the south 
entrance, be included. At its opening between these 
two islands it is fourteen miles broad; and from the 
opening at its head at Portici the distance is fifteen 
miles. It affords good anchorage, with nearly seven 
fathoms of water, and is well sheltered, except from 
winds that blow from points between southeast and 
southwest. There is a perceptible tide of nearly nine 
inches. 

On the northeast shore of the bay, east of Naples, 
is an extensive flat, forming part of the ancient Cam¬ 
pania Felix, and watered by the small stream Sebeto 
and by the Sarno, which formerly flowed by Pompeii. 
From this flat, between the sea and the range of the 
Apennines, rises Vesuvius, at the base of which, on 
or near the seashore, are villages of San Giovanni 
Teduccio, Portici, Resina, Torre del Greco, Torre deF 
Annunziata, etc., and the classic sites of Herculaneum 
and Pompeii. At the southeast extremity of the plain, 
three miles beyond the outlet of the Sarno, a great 
off shot of the Apennines, branching from the main 
range near Cava, and projecting as a peninsula more 
than twelve miles west, divides the Bay of Naples 
from the Bay of Salerno, and ends in the bold prom¬ 
ontory of the Punta della Campanella, which is 
separated by a strait of four miles from Capri. On 
the north slope of this peninsula, where the plain 
ends and the coast abruptly bends to the west, stands 
the town of Castellammare, near the site of Sta- 
bioe, at the foot of Monte Sant’ Angelo, which rises 
suddenly from the sea to a height of four thousand 
seven hundred and twenty-two feet. Farther west, 



874 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


and nearly opposite to Naples across the bay, are 
Vico, Meta, Sorrento, Massa, and many villages. 

The northwest shore of the bay, to the west of 
Naples, is more broken and irregular. A tunnel 
through the promontory, constructed by Marcus 
Agrippa in 27 B. C., forms the so-called grotto of 
Posillipo; at the Naples end stands the reputed tomb 
of Virgil. Beyond Posillipo is the small island of 
Nisida; and a short distance inland are extinct craters 
of Solfatara and Astroni, and the Lake of Agnano. 
Farther west, on a tongue of land, stands Pozzuoli, 
and beyond it, round the Bay of Baiae, are Monte 
Nuovo, a hill thrown up in a single night in Septem¬ 
ber, 1538; the classic site of Baiae; the Lucrine Lake; 
Lake Avernus; the Lake of Fusaro; the Elysian 
Fields; and the port and promontory of Misenum. 
Still farther to the southwest lie the islands of Pro- 
cida, and Ischia, which divide the Bay of Gaeta. 

The city of Naples is built at the base and on the 
slopes of a range of volcanic hills, and, rising from 
the shore, like an amphitheatre, is seen to best ad¬ 
vantage from the water. 

The streets of Naples are generally well paved with 
lava or volcanic basalt, which, however, renders them 
both noisy and slippery for horses. Side pavements, 
where they exist are usually narrow. In the older 
districts, there is a countless variety of narrow, 
gloomy streets, many of them steep. The houses 
throughout the city are more remarkable for their 
size and the solidity of their construction than for 
taste and elegance. They are mostly five or six stories 
high, are covered with stucco, made of a kind of poz- 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


375 


zuolana, which hardens by exposure, and have large 
balconies and flat roofs, frequently ornamented with 
flowers, shrubs, and small trees planted in boxes filled 
with earth. The castle of St. Elmo, which dominates 
the whole city, had its origin in a fort erected by King 
Robert the Wise, in 1343. 

On a small island now joined to the shore at the 
foot of the Pizzofalcone by an arch-supported cause¬ 
way eight hundred feet long, stands the Castel dell’ 
Ovo, which, dating from 1154, was for several cen¬ 
turies a place of great strength. The walls of its 
chapel were frescoed by Giotto, but the whole build¬ 
ing was ruined by Ferdinand II in 1495, an d h a d t0 
be restored in the sixteenth century. Castel Nuovo, a 
very picturesque building constructed near the harbor 
in 1283 by Charles I of Anjou, contains between the 
round towers of its fagade the triumphal arch erected 
in 1470 to Alphonso I, and numbers among its cham¬ 
bers the Gothic hall of Giovanni Pisano, in which 
Celestine V abdicated the papal dignity. Castel del 
Carmine, founded by Ferdinand I in 1484, was occu¬ 
pied by the populace in Masaniello’s insurrection, was 
used as a prison for the patriots of 1796, and became 
municipal property in 1878. The royal palace, begun 
in 1600, is an enormous building, with a sea frontage 
of eight hundred feet, and a main fagade five hundred 
and fifty-four feet long and ninety-five feet high, ex¬ 
hibiting the Doric, Ionic and Composite orders in its 
three stories. On their visits to Naples, Kings Victor 
Emmanuel and Humbert have usually preferred the 
suburban palace of Capodimonte, began by Charles 
III, and completed by Ferdinand II. Naples is the 



376 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


See of a Roman Catholic archbishop, always a cardi¬ 
nal. The cathedral has a chapter of thirty canons, 
and of the numerous religious houses formerly exist¬ 
ing, thirteen have in whole or in part survived the 
suppression in 1868. The city is divided into forty- 
seven parishes, and there are two hundred and fifty- 
seven Roman Catholic churches and fifty-seven 
chapels. Most of the churches are remarkable rather 
for richness of internal decoration than for architec¬ 
tural beauty. The cathedral of St. Januarius, occu¬ 
pying the site of temples of Apollo and Neptune, and 
still containing some of their original granite columns, 
was designed by Nicola Pisano, and erected between 
1272 and 1316. Owing to frequent restorations occa¬ 
sioned by earthquakes, it now presents an incongruous 
mixture of different styles. The general plan is that 
of a basilica with a nave and two aisles separated by 
pilasters. Beneath the high altar is a subterranean 
chapel containing the tomb of St. Januarius, the pa¬ 
tron saint of the city; in the right aisle there is a 
chapel built between 1608 and 1637 in popular recog¬ 
nition of his having saved Naples in 1527, “from 
famine, war, plague, and the fire of Vesuvius.” Santa 
Chiara is interesting for a fresco inscribed to Giotto, 
and monuments to Robert the Wise, his queen, Mary 
of Valois, and his daughter, Mary, empress of Con¬ 
stantinople. San Domenico Maggiore, founded by 
Charles II, in 1285, but completely restored after 1445, 
has an effective interior particularly rich in Renais¬ 
sance sculpture. In the neighboring monastery is 
shown the cell of Thomas Aquinas. San Felippo Neri 
or die Gerolomini, erected at the close of the sixteenth 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


377 


century, has a white marble fagade and two campa¬ 
niles, and contains the tombstone of Giambattista 
Vico. San Francesco di Paola, opposite the royal 
palace, is an imitation of the Pantheon at Rome, and 
its dome is one of the boldest in Europe. The church 
of the Certosa of San Martino, on the hill below 
St. Elmo’s castle, has now become in name, as so 
many of the churches are in reality, a museum. Dat¬ 
ing from the fourteenth century, and restored by 
Fonsega in the seventeenth, it is a building of ex¬ 
traordinary richness of decoration, with paintings and 
sculpture by Guido Reni, Lanfranco, Caravaggio, 
D’Arpino, Solimene, Luca Giordano, and notably a 
“Descent from the Cross,” by Ribera. One of the 
cloisters by Fonsega is particularly fine. A more an¬ 
cient Christian monument than any of the convents 
or churches is the Catacombs, which extend a great 
distance underground. 

Of all the secular institutions in Naples, none is 
more remarkable than the National Museum, better 
known as the Museo Borbonico. The building, begun 
in 1586 for cavalry barracks, and remodeled in 1615 
for the university, received its present destination in 
1790. Enriched by the Farnese collection, by all that 
was most valuable in Naples, and by everything that 
would bear removal from Herculaneum, Pompeii, 
Stabiae, Puteoli, Paestum, etc., the museum is unique 
as a treasure house of Roman and early Italian an¬ 
tiquities. The collection of Etruscan and Italo-Greek 
vases is unsurpassed. Nor is the variety of objects 
greater than the artistic value of some of the items— 
such as the Farnese Hercules, the Farnese Bull, the 



878 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


Dancing Faun, the statues of the Balbi. The Club 
Alpino has a unique collection of Vesuvian and seis- 
mographical literature. 

The University of Naples is one of the oldest in 
Italy, having been founded by Frederick II in the 
first half of the thirteenth century. It comprises five 
faculties, and is well equipped with zoological, miner- 
alogical, and geological museums, a physiological in¬ 
stitute, a cabinet of anthropology, botanical gardens, 
and an observatory on Mount Vesuvius. Originally 
erected in 1557 for the use of the Jesuits, the uni¬ 
versity buildings are regarded as the best work of 
Marco di Pino; the quadrangle, surrounded by a 
simple but effective peristyle, contains statues of 
Pietro della Vigna, Thomas Aquinas, Vicot, and Gior¬ 
dano Bruno. The famous zoological station is at 
Naples, whose aquarium is the principal building in 
the Villa Nazionale. 

Charitable institutions are unusually numerous in 
Naples. The oldest civil hospital is St. Eligio, dating 
from 1270, but the largest is the Casa Santa degli 
Incurabili, founded in 1521 by Francesa Maria Longo. 
It is open to patients of both sexes and any rank, con¬ 
tains upwards of one thousand beds, and has an an¬ 
nual income of about thirty-two thousand pounds. In 
1877 an international hospital was established by the 
foreign residents. The Albergo dei Poveri occupies a 
magnificent range of buildings, commenced in 1761 
by Charles III, at the suggestion of Padre Rocco. 
Nothing, perhaps, is more characteristic of Naples 
than its so-called Arci-confraternita, associations simi¬ 
lar to our friendly and burial societies, but entering 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


379 


more into the life of all classes of society. There 
are about one hundred and thirty of them. The 
oldest which has kept the date of its origin was 
founded in 1382; seven belong to the fifteenth cen¬ 
tury and twenty-seven to the sixteenth. Mutual bene¬ 
fit societies are also numerous. 

There are about a score of theatres in Naples. The 
San Carlo opera house, with its area of five thousand 
one hundred and fifty-seven square yards, and its pit 
capable of containing one thousand spectators, is one 
of the largest in Europe. It was originally erected 
in 1737 under Charles III, after the designs of Gio¬ 
vanni Medrano, but had to be almost completely re¬ 
built after the fire of 1816. Though closely asso¬ 
ciated with the names of Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti, 
Mercadante, etc., San Carlo has always had to be 
subsidized—first by the Bourbon Princes, and since 
i860 by the municipality, which also helps to support 
the Mercadante Theatre. It is enough to mention 
the Teatro Nuovo, the sannazaro, the Dei Fiorentini, 
and the Bellini. The San Carlino, though mean and 
incommodious, is largely frequented by all classes, 
from royalty downwards, its Pulcinella farces, always 
in the Neapolitan dialect, being a purely local 
institution, connected it may be with the Atellan 
plays. 

At a very early date the original harbor at Naples, 
now known in its greatly reduced state as Porto Pic¬ 
colo, and lit only for boats and lighters, became too 
small. In 1302, Charles II, of Anjou, began the con¬ 
struction of the Porto Grande, by forming the Molo 
Grande or San Genaro, which stretched eastward into 



380 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


the bay, and was terminated by a lighthouse in the 
fifteenth century. ». 

The port of Naples is second in the kingdom. The 
total tonnage of foreign and coasting trade had in¬ 
creased from one million, eight hundred and twelve 
thousand, one hundred thirty-eight register tons in 
1863, to four million, one hundred twenty-eight thou¬ 
sand, fifty-seven hundred in 1882. In the foreign 
trade the first place belongs to French shipping, nine 
hundred fifty-six thousand, one hundred seventy-one 
tons; the second to British, three hundred seventy- 
four thousand, six hundred and eight; and the third 
to Italian, ninety-three thousand, four hundred and 
twenty-four.' Cotton, cereals, sugar, coffee, tobacco, 
wool, etc., are the chief imports; pastes, coral, and 
jewelers’ work, dried fruits, hats, tartar and wine lees, 
wine, and olive oil, are the chief exports. The total 
value of imports and exports was nine million, three 
hundred seventy-four thousand, nine hundred and 
forty pounds in 1881, and eight million, fifty-five 
thousand, seven hundred ninety-eight in 1882. Coral, 
kid gloves, and macaroni are manufactured in the city 
on an extensive scale. 

Naples has several good local springs; a covered 
channel brings the waters of Monte Somma to the 
lower parts of the town; an aqueduct, constructed 
in the seventeenth century at the cost of Criminello 
and Carmignano, taps the Isclero at Asnt’ Agate dei 
Goti, thirty miles distant; and a number of artesian 
wells have proved successful as far as quantity is 
concerned. But, in spite of all these resources, the 
water supply has long been far below the demand; 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


381 


and a city which from its position might be one of 
the best-drained, cleanest, and healthiest in the world, 
has an unenviable reputation for dirtiness and un¬ 
wholesomeness. At present extensive works are in 
progress by which good drinking water is to be 
brought from Serino and laid on at three different 
high levels at the rate of twenty-two million gallons 
daily for the use of the inhabitants, and one million 
for public purposes. 

Naples, the most densely peopled city in Europe, is 
slowly but steadily increasing. 

All ancient writers agree in representing Naples as 
a Greek settlement, though its foundation is obscurely 
and differently narrated. It seems that the oldest 
city on its site was founded by a colony from the 
neighboring Greek town of Cumae. They are said to 
have given it the name of Parthenope, from a legen¬ 
dary connection of the locality with the siren Parthe¬ 
nope, whose tomb was still shown at the time of 
Strabo. 

In the year 328 B. C., the Palaepolitans, having 
provoked the hostility of Rome by their incursions 
upon her Campanian allies, the consul Publilius Philo 
marched against them, and, having taken his position 
between the old and the new city, laid regular siege 
to Palaepolis. Neapolis possibly surrendered to the 
consul without any resistance, as it was received on 
favorable terms, had its liberties secured by a treaty, 
and obtained the chief authority, which previously 
seems to have been enjoyed by the older city. From 
that time Palaepolis totally disappeared from history, 
and Neapolis became as an allied city —faederata civi- 



382 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


tas —a dependency of Rome, to whose alliance it re¬ 
mained constantly faithful, even under most trying 
circumstances. In 280 B. C., Pyrrhus unsuccessfully 
attacked its walls; and in the Second Punic War, 
Hannibal was, by their strength, deterred from at¬ 
tempting to make himself master of the town. Dur¬ 
ing the civil w r ars of Marius and Sulla, a body of 
partisans of the latter, having entered it by treachery, 
82 B. C., made a general massacre of the inhabitants; 
but Neapolis soon recovered the blow, as it was again 
a flourishing city in the time of Cicero. 

Though a municipal town, Neapolis long retained 
its Greek culture and institutions; and even at the 
time of Strabo had gymnasia and quinquennial games, 
and was divided into phratrise, after the Greek fashion. 
When the Romans became masters of the world, 
many of their upper classes, both before the close of 
the republic and under the empire, from a love of 
Greek manners and literature or from indolent and 
effeminate habits, resorted to Neapolis, either for 
education and the cultivation of gymnatsic exercises, 
or for the enjoyment of music and of a soft and lux¬ 
urious climate. Hence we find Neapolis variously 
styled by Horace as “otiosa Neapolis”; by Martial, as 
“docta Parthenope,” by Ovid, as “in otia natam Par- 
thenopen.” It was the favorite residence of many 
of the emperors: Nero made his first appearance on 
the stage in one of its theatres; Titus assumed the 
office of its archon, and Hadrian became its demarch. 
It was chiefly at Neapolis that Virgil composed his 
Georgies; and he was buried on the hill of Pausilypus, 
the modern posillipo, in its neighborhood. It was 





SACRIFICE OF ABRAHAM. 

“And behold an Angel of the Lord from Heaven called to 
him, saying, Abraham, Abraham! And he answered: ‘Here I 
am.’ And he said to him: Lay not thy hand upon thy boy, 
neither do thou anything to him: now I know thou fearest 
God, and hast not spared thy only begotten son for my sake.” 

The above is in the Pitti Gallery, in Florence, Italy, painted 
by Allori. It is regarded as one of the world’s greatest works 
of art. 


—Page 382 









THE GLOBE TROTTER 


383 


also the favorite residence of the Poets Statius and 
Silius Italicus, the former of whom was a Neapoli¬ 
tan by birth. 

After the fall of the Roman empire, Neapolis suf¬ 
fered severely during the Gothic wars. Having 
espoused the Gothic cause in the year 536, it was 
taken, after a protracted siege, by Belisarius, who 
turned aside an aqueduct, marched by surprise into 
the city through the channel, and put many of the 
inhabitants to the sword. In 542 Totila besieged it 
and compelled it to surrender; but, being soon after 
recovered by Narses, it remained long a dependency 
of the exarchate of Ravenna, under the immediate 
government of a duke, appointed by the Byzantine em¬ 
perors. When the Lombards invaded Italy, and 
pushed their conquests in the southern provinces, the 
limits of the Neapolitan duchy were considerably nar¬ 
rowed. The Neapolitans, encouraged by Pope Greg¬ 
ory III, threw off their allegiance to the eastern em¬ 
perors, and established a republican form of govern¬ 
ment under a duke of their own appointment. Under 
this regime, Neapolis retained her independence for 
nearly four hundred years, though constantly strug¬ 
gling against the powerful Lombard dukes of Bene- 
vento, who twice unsuccessfully besieged it. In 1027, 
however, Pandulf IV, a Lombard prince of Capua, 
succeeded in making himself master of it; but he was 
expelled in 1030 by Duke Sergius, chiefly through the 
aid of a few Norman adventurers. The Normans, in 
their turn, gradually superseded all powers, whether 
Greek, Lombard, or republican, which had previously 
divided the south of Italy, and furthermore checked 



384 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


the Saracens in the advances they were making 
through Apulia. 

It is sufficient here to state that the leaders of 
the house of Hauteville in 1053 did homage to the 
Pope for all conquests they had made or might make, 
both in the island and upon the mainland, and that 
in 1130 Count Roger of that family assumed the 
style of king. In this way the south of Italy, together 
with the adjacent island of Sicily, was converted into 
one political body, which, owing to the peculiar tem¬ 
per of its Norman rulers and their powerful organiza¬ 
tion, assumed a more feudal character than any other 
part of the peninsula. The “regno,” as it was called 
by the Italians, constituted a state apart, differing in 
social institutions, foreign relations, and type of home 
government from the commonwealths and tyrannies 
of Upper Italy. It should furthermore be noticed 
that the indirect right acquired by the popes as lords 
paramount over this vast section of Italian territory 
gave occasion to all the most serious disturbances of 
Italy between the end of the thirteenth and the begin¬ 
ning of the sixteenth centuries, by the introduction 
of the house of Anjou into Naples and the disputed 
succession of Angevine and Aragoneses princes. 
From the date at which the south of Italy and Sicily 
were subjugated by the Normans, the history of Na¬ 
ples ceases to be the history of a kingdom, in that of 
the kingdom of the Two Sicilies. Naples henceforth 
formed the metropolis of the Italian portion of the 
kingdom, owing this pre-eminence to its advantageous 
position on the side of Italy toward Sicily, and to 
the favor of successive princes. Both Sicily and 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


385 


Naples were absorbed in the Italian kingdom through 
the cession by Garibaldi of his conquest to the popu¬ 
larly sanctioned sceptre of the house of Savoy. 

It is impossible to write the history of Naples in 
modern times apart from that of Sicily, or to separate 
it from that of the several dynasties which have 
held royal or vice-royal state in Naples as their capital. 
But an epitome of the main vicissitudes which it has 
undergone during the last seven centuries and a half 
may be supplied. The Norman dynasty controlled 
both Sicily and Naples until the year 1194, when their 
rights were transmitted, by failure of legitimate male 
issue, to Henry VI, emperor, and husband of Con¬ 
stance de Hauteville. It was then shown that though 
the Normans had welded Sicily and the southern 
provinces of Italy into one substantial political whole, 
the island and the mainland had no strong bond of 
national cohesion. The subsequent history of the sis¬ 
ter kingdoms makes this even far more apparent. 
Seven princes of the house of Anjou ruled Naples 
after the death of Charles until the year 1442. In 
1442 Alphonso V, of Aragon and Sicily, surnamed 
the Magnanimous, expelled Rene of Anjou from the 
kingdom of Naples, and reunited the Two Sicilies 
under his own rule. Upon his death in 1458, his 
brother John became King of Aragon and Sicily^ 
while his natural son Ferdinand assumed the crown 
of Naples, which was bequeathed to him by Alphonso 
as being his own property by right of conquest. The 
Aragonese dynasty, thus founded, continued to hold 
sway in Naples, separate from Sicily, through four 
successive princes, until their line ended by the expul- 



886 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


sion of Frederick, Alphonso’s grandson, in 1501. Be¬ 
trayed by his cousin, Ferdinand of Spain, this prince 
surrendered to a French army and died in captivity 
in France three years later. The French and Span¬ 
iards were at this epoch disputing the possession of 
Italy. 



CHAPTER XL 


EUROPEAN WRITERS 

To me it seems strange that so many able writers 
of note on this side of the world write of the immoral. 
Of the departed Zola, we could not presume purity in 
language, while he was so industriously trying to be¬ 
come a second Baccaccio, the want of fineness of style 
and delicacy of finish making a plain distinction that 
yet left the writings of Baccaccio apart from all other 
writers. As Zola’s thoughts always ran in a filthy 
sewer, we might hope for nothing pure from his pen. 
This, however, is not true of Gabrielle d’Annuzio, 
the Italian genius: he came from better stock, and 
his training was finished in a different atmospheric 
school. He has the genius of Zola, a better writer, 
and while it seems that he also has a desire to treat 
of the unclean, yet he covers his meanings with words 
of decency and so arranges them, that to the casual 
observer, the language imparts purity. This is done 
so artfully that it is strong evidence of genius. Bac¬ 
caccio tried not to be coarse, but it was the elegance 
of expression that saved his indecent language from 
being plainly vulgar, but always immoral. He wanted 
the world to know that his writings were immoral. 
His writings were such that he hasn’t to say that 

387 


388 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


everything he wrote was immoral. d'Annuzio has an 
art of concealment of the despoilment of purity. 

Zola was loved and admired by a certian class of 
his people, for the strength of his political expressions. 
He possessed a talent, which if properly used, would 
have placed him among the leading men of France. 
It seemed a pity that a man possessing such talent 
should so unbridle his thoughts and cynically expose 
the nudity of expression and then gloat over its ex¬ 
position, with a feeling that he was the true successor 
of Baccaccio. In the days of Baccaccio, the average 
reader wanted the curtain drawn back and the virility 
behind it exposed. Time has changed, and now we 
want to see the curtain drawn back exposing a beau¬ 
tiful flower garden and hear the playful voices of 
childhood's innocence, for the world is growing better. 

It is the sensual excesses in portraiture and de¬ 
scription of the immoral novel that has so largely 
changed the reading world from the novel to clean 
magazine reading. And so work the ardor and ethi¬ 
cal energy of writers, as to produce in all literature 
an aspiring and palpitating inspiration of the good 
and noble. 

Count Tolstoi was one of the leading writers of 
the last century. In private life he was certainly one 
of the noblest characters, as well as one of the purest 
in life’s practice; a student of the works of Rousseau, 
whose writings gave Tolstoi intellectual development 
that changed a pure to an impure mind. He regarded ' 
Rousseau as a great philosopher. He believed in him, 
and he gave in his own great brain room for the 
thoughts of Rousseau. In this he substituted imagi- 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


3 89 


nation for reality. Rousseau’s writings so clearly 
appealed to Tolstoi’s whole nature that they controlled 
the wealth of his pen. My main reason in mention¬ 
ing these facts is to show how dangerous it is for an 
ordinary person to read an immoral book, believing* 
that it will do no harm. The indecent and immoral 
books of the Count, had no foundation in fact, nor 
excuse in execution, for Tolstoi’s life always was 
shining brightly on the other side of the picture. It 
seems sad that he leaves such an imperishable heri¬ 
tage to a good family, that truly loved such a noble 
sire. 

The last century did not produce any other man 
but Tolstoi who lived and worked for the interests 
of the common people as he did, yet, he was of royal 
blood. From his youth, the elements of genius lived 
and breathed within him. He would have been a1 
greater man, if he had never read a book other than 
his school books and wrote books from his own con¬ 
ception of right. I believe that Tolstoi died without 
a full development of his endowed genius. Had he 
relied on his own innate depth of thought; and had 
he been blessed with congenialty in his domestic rela¬ 
tions, which would have given to his mind an undis¬ 
turbed full sway of its splendor, his name would to¬ 
day be in the gallery of Homer, Milton, Dante and 
Balzac. How frail the thread of thought; it is as 
easily changed as pulling a loose loop, freeing the 
boat from its safe mooring, permitting it to float on 
over the perils of snags, rocks and cataracts. To 
write from brain and heart, one must be by himself; 
then can he elevate his imagination, his passionate 



390 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


fancy, his sensitive conscience into words of utterance 
that are truly his own. 

We hope for a time to come, when authors will 
be impelled by a sense of duty and true action of 
the soul, to devote their imagination and picture in 
their thoughts, with passionate fancy and sensitive 
conscience, to write nothing but the pure. The pure 
is natural, the impure is unnatural. Go to the hill¬ 
side and seek a spring to cool your thirst, you drink 
its clear pure liquid. You say, “How beautiful are 
the works of nature.” But suppose, on reaching such 
spring, you see muddy water issuing from where the 
pure water should naturally flow. You say, “How un¬ 
natural.” You walk into the forest to commune with 
nature, the air is calm, nothing moving but the squir¬ 
rels and the flight of birds. You say, “How natural, 
everything is in harmony,” but while your eyes are 
penetrating the vastness of the forest, you hear the 
cracking of a mighty oak, you run from its reach, it 
tumbles to the ground, crushing everything beneath 
its weight. You say, “This is truly phenomenal.” 
You walk to its base and you discover it was rotten 
within; just so is the inwardness of the author who 
writes the immoral. 

Critics differ as to the relative abilities of writers. 
The difference is honest; like taste, it consists in the 
power of judging, genius in the power of executing 
it. One may have a considerable degree of taste in 
writing poetry who has but little genius in prose 
composition; but genius includes taste. Genius imparts 
something creative, which does not rest in mere sensi¬ 
bility to beauty, where it is perceived, but which can 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


391 


produce new beauties and portray them in such a 
manner as strongly to impress the artistic points in 
the minds of others. 

Tolstoi possessed the talent to picture the images 
of nature so truly that a child could see them. 



CHAPTER XLI 


ROME 

Here we are in Rome, still crowning the seven 
hills; and in many ways, the most remarkable city 
in the world. It has the largest and most expensive, 
and at the same time the most durable buildings, the 
finest paintings, the best sculptured statuary, the larg¬ 
est and the greatest classic library, and is superior in 
many other ways to any other city on the globe. 

Location has something to do with the line of 
one’s thoughts. One of our first drives was to the 
Capital, the smallest, but historically the most import¬ 
ant of the hills of Rome. By a special permit we 
were taken to the Palace Caffarelli. It was on this 
piazza, the Area Capitolina, that Romulus is said to 
have founded this asylum; it was here that popular 
assemblies were afterwards held; and it was here 

1 

sin the year 133 B. C., on the occasion of the suppres¬ 
sion of the revolt of Tiberius Gracchus, that the blood 
of the citizens flowed for the first time in civil war¬ 
fare. On this hill was built the citadel, with the 
Temple of Juno Moneta, beside which, from 269 B. C. 
onwards, stood the mint of the Senate. Also the 
site of the great Temple of Jupiter, built by Tar- 
quinius Superbus, the last of the kings, and conse¬ 
crated 509 B. C., the first year of the republic. 

392 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


393 


We next drove to the Temple of Caesar, of which 
nothing remains but the concrete core of the sub¬ 
structures. Caesar had erected here a new oratorical 
tribune, and it was from this place, at the funeral of 
the murdered dictator on the 19th or 20th of March, 
44 B. C., that Mark Antony pronounced the cele¬ 
brated oration which wrought so powerfully on the 
passions of the excited populace. A funeral pyre was 
improvised, and the illustrious deceased was accorded 
the unparalleled honor of being burned in view of the 
most sacred shrines of the city. 

It is characteristic of Rome that the change from 
monarchy to a republic should have been made with 
the least possible disturbance of existing forms. The 
title of king was retained, though only as that of a 
priestly officer to whom some of the religious func¬ 
tions of the former kings were transferred. The two 
annually elected consuls, or “praetores,” were regarded 
as joint heirs of the full kingly authority, and as 
holding the “impedum/ 1 and the correlative right of 
auspices, by direct transmission from the founder of 
the city. They were, it is true, elected or created by 
a new assembly, by the army of freeholders voting by 
their classes and centuries, and to this body was given 
also the right of passing laws; but nevertheless it was 
still by a vote of the thirty curies that the supreme 
authority was formally conferred on the magistrates 
chosen by the centuries of freeholders, and both the 
choice of magistrates and the passing of laws still 
required the sanction of the patrician senators. Nor, 
lastly, were the prerogatives of the senate altered, 
although it is probable that before long plebeians were 



394 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


admitted to seats, if not to votes and though its im¬ 
portance was gradually increased by the substitution 
of an annual magistracy for the life-long rule of a 
single king. But the abolition of the monarchy 
brought with it a change of the utmost importance 
in the actual working of the constitution. Though 
the distinction between patricians and plebeians was 
at least as old as the country itself, it is not until the 
establishment of the republic that it plays any part in 
the history of Rome. No sooner, however, was the 
overshadowing authority of the king removed than a 
struggle commenced between the two orders which 
lasted for more than two centuries. It was in no sense 
a struggle between a conquering and a conquered 
class, or between an exclusive citizen body and an 
unfranchised mass outside its pale. Patricians and 
plebeians were equally citizens of Rome, sprung of 
the same race and speaking the same tongue. The 
former were the members of those “chiefly” families 
in the small communities which preceded the united 
state, and which claimed by hereditary right a privi¬ 
leged position in t*he community. Only patricians 
could sit in/the council of patres, and hence, prob¬ 
ably, the name given to their order. To their repre¬ 
sentatives the supreme authority reverted on the death 
of the king; the due transmission of the auspicia and 
the public worship of the state gods were their special 
care; and to them alone were known the traditional 
usages and forms which regulated the life of the 
people from day to day. To the “plebs” belonged 
all who were not members of some patrician gens, 
whether independent freemen or attached as “clients” 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


395 


to one of the great houses. The plebeian was a citi¬ 
zen, with civil rights and a vote in the assembly 
of the curies, but he was excluded by ancient custom 
from all share in the higher honors of the state, and 
intermarriage with a patrician was not recognized as 
a properly legal union. 

The revolution which expelled the Tarquins gave 
the patricians, who had mainly assisted in bringing 
it about, an ascendency in the state. The establish¬ 
ment of the republic invested this military levy of 
freeholders with political rights as an assembly, for 
by their votes the consuls were chosen and laws 
passed, and it was the plebian freeholders who formed 
the main strength of the “plebs” in the struggle that 
followed. But these gains were greater in appearance 
than in reality. The plebeian freeholders commanded 
only a minority of votes in the comita centuriata. In 
their choice of magistrates they were limited to the 
patrician candidates nominated by patrician presiding 
magistrates, and their choice required confirmation, 
not only by the older and smaller assembly of the 
curiae, in which the patricians and their clients pre¬ 
dominated, but also by the patrician patres. In Rome, 
as in Greece, the first efforts of the people were 
directed against the arbitrary powers of the executive 
magistrate. 

The history of this struggle between the orders 
opens with a concession made by the plebeians by one 
of the consuls themselves, a concession possibly due 
to a desire to secure the allegiance of the plebeian 
freeholders. 

It was by their own efforts that the plebeians first 



396 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


obtained any real protection against magisterial des¬ 
potism. The traditional accounts of the first seces¬ 
sion are confused and contradictory, but its causes 
and results are tolerably clear. The seceders were the 
plebeian legionaries recently returned from a victori¬ 
ous campaign. Indignant at the delay of the promised 
reforms, they ignored the order given them to march 
afresh against Volsci and yEqui, and instead en¬ 
trenched themselves on a hill across the Anio, some 
three miles from Rome, and known afterwards as the 
Mons Sacer. The frightened patricians came to terms, 
and a solemn agreement was concluded between the 
orders, by which it was provided that henceforth the 
plebeians should have annual magistrates of their 
own, members of their own order, who should be 
authorized to protect them against the consuls, and a 
curse was invoked upon the man who should injure or 
impede the tribune in the performance of his duties. 
The number of tribunes was at first two, then five, 
and before 449 B. C., it had been raised to ten. The 
fact that the institution of the tribunate of the ple¬ 
beians was the one result of the first secession is strong 
evidence that the object of the seceders was not econo¬ 
mic or agrarian reform, but protection against the 
consuls. The tribunate gave them this protection in 
a form which has no parallel in history. The tri¬ 
bune was not, and strictly speaking, never became, a 
magistrate of the Roman people. His one proper pre¬ 
rogative was that of granting protection to the op¬ 
pressed plebeian against the patrician officer. This pre¬ 
rogative was secured to the tribunes, not by the ordi¬ 
nary constitution, but by a special compact between 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


397 


the orders and was protected by the ancient oath, which 
invoked a curse upon the violator of a tribune. This 
exceptional and anomalous right the tribunes could 
only exercise in person, within the limits of the “po- 
moerium,” and against individual acts of magisterial 
oppression. It was only gradually that it expanded 
into the later wide power of interference with the 
whole machinery of government, and was supple¬ 
mented by the legislative and judicial powers which 
rendered the tribunate of the last century B. C. so 
formidable, and the “tribunitia potestas” so essential 
an element in the authority of the emperors. 

The Church of St. Peter, like San Giovanni in La- 
terano, San Paolo, Santa Croce, Sant’ Agnese, and 
San Lorenzo, is said to have been founded by the 
Emperor Constantine at the request of Pope Sylves¬ 
ter I. It was erected in the form of a basilica, with 
nave, double aisles, and transept, on the site of the 
circus of Nero, where St. Peter is said to have been 
buried, and it contained the brazen sarcophagus of 
the apostle. The church was approached by an en¬ 
trance-court with colonnades and was surrounded 
with smaller churches, chapels, and monasteries. The 
interior was sumptuously decorated with gold, mo¬ 
saics, and marble. At Christmas, in the year 800, 
Charlemagne received here the Roman imperial 
crown from the hands of Leo III, and numerous em¬ 
perors and popes were subsequently crowned here. 

In the course of time the edifice had at length be¬ 
come so damaged that Nicholas V determined on its 
reconstruction, and in 1452 began its execution, from 
the design of the Florentine Bernardo Rossellino. 



398 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


According to this design, the church was to have the 
form of a Latin cross and the choir was to be rounded 
internally, and to form half of a hexagon externally. 
The proportions were so adjusted that the choir and 
the transept completely enclosed the corresponding 
parts of the old church. The walls had risen to a 
height of four to five feet, when the work was inter¬ 
rupted by the death of the Pope in 1455. 

The work was not resumed till fifty years later, 
when a new impulse was given to the undertaking 
by the idea of Julius II, to erect a tomb for himself 
during his own lifetime, for which, as there was not 
sufficient room in the church, it was proposed to add 
a chapel. For this proposal was next substituted an¬ 
other, that the church itself should be altered, and 
that the beginning of Rosellino’s building should be 
utilized; but this last suggestion was afterwards 
abandoned as being likely to interfere with the inde¬ 
pendence of the work, and it was at length resolved 
to erect an entirely new edifice. The tradition, that 
Julius II had invited a number of architects to submit 
designs, and that Bramante, who came from Lom¬ 
bardy, was the successful competitor, is probably true. 
The numbers of sketches and designs preserved in the 
collection of drawings in the Uffizi at Florence testify 
to the enthusiasm and zeal with which the various 
masters entered the lists, and particularly to the assid¬ 
uity with which Bramante revised, corrected, and per¬ 
fected his designs. His aim seems to have been 
to crown a substructure like the Basilica of Constan¬ 
tine with a superstructure like the Panthenon. He 
intended the new church to be in the form of a Greek 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


399 


cross covered with a gigantic central dome, with 
rounded choir and transepts, above which there were 
to be four smaller domes. The foundation stone 
was laid on the 18th of April, 1506, in the presence 
of thirty-five cardinals, under the choir-pillar of St. 
Veronica. 

Michael Angelo was most fortunate with his con¬ 
struction of the dome. He completed the drum of 
the dome, and left behind him drawings and models 
for the completion of the work up to the lantern. 
The dome of St. Peter’s is thus the completion of the 
artistic idea which had been conceived one hundred 
and fifty years before, though in the dome of the 
cathedral at Florence he practically did little more 
than demonstrate its technical possibility. The vast 
dimensions of Michael Angelo’s dome render doubly 
marvellous its airy and symmetrical appearance; and 
it still remains an unsurpassed model. 

The new church of St. Peter was consecrated by 
Pope Urban VIII, on the 18th of November, 1626, 
the thirteenth hundredth anniversary of the day on 
which St. Sylvester is said to have consecrated the 
original edifice. By the end of the seventeenth cen¬ 
tury the cost of building St. Peter’s had amounted to 
upwards of forty-seven million scudi, and the present 
expense of its maintenance is about seventy-five hun¬ 
dred pounds per annum. The new sacristy, erected 
by Pius VI, cost nine hundred thousand scudi. 

The result of these various vicissitudes is that St. 
Peter’s is the largest and most imposing, if not the 
most beautiful church, in the world. Its area is about 
eighteen thousand square yards, while that of the 



400 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


cathedral at Milan is twelve thousand, seven hundred 
and ninety; St. Paul’s at London, nine thousand, three 
hundred and fifty; St. Sophia’s at Constantinople, 
eight thousand, one hundred and fifty; and Cologne 
Cathedral, seven thousand, four hundred square yards. 

The portico, seventy-eight yards in length, fourteen 
and a half in width, and sixty-six feet in height, is 
admirably decorated, the magnificent stucco-ornamen¬ 
tation of the ceiling being especially noteworthy. At 
the entrance are antique columns of pavonazzetto and 
African marble. 

Of the five doors of the church, that on the extreme 
right, indicated by a cross, is called the Porta Santa, 
and is only opened in the years of Jubilee. The great 
central entrance is closed by the brazen doors which 
Eugene IV caused to be executed in 1439-45, after 
the model of those of Don Giovanni at Florence. The 
Christian subjects represented on the main panels con¬ 
trast strangely with the pagan subjects on the sur¬ 
rounding ornamental borders, such as Phrizus and 
Helle on the ram, Europa on the bull, Ganymede car¬ 
ried off by the eagle, Leda and the swan, etc. 

While the exterior of St. Peter’s is open to criti¬ 
cism, the interior, notwithstanding its meretricious 
enrichments by Bernini and his contemporaries, col¬ 
ored marble incrustation of the walls, and niches 
formed in the principal pillars by the same master, is 
strikingly impressive ; and the effect is produced, not 
so much by the vastness, as by the harmony and sym¬ 
metry of its proportions. The finest features, such 
as the great breadth of the three arms of the cross, 
the four great dome pillars, the arcades below the 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


401 


dome, and the diameter of the latter, are all due to 
Bramante, to whom the coffering- of the tunnel vault¬ 
ing must also be ascribed. 

On the pavement of the nave, close to the central 
door, is a round slab of porphyry on which the em¬ 
perors were formerly crowned. On the pavement are 
inscribed the lengths of several other large churches. 
On each side, as far as the dome, are four pillars 
with Corinthian pilasters; above these a rich entabla¬ 
ture, which bears the arches extending from pillar to 
pillar and the gorgeously coffered and gilded tunnel 
vaulting of the ceiling. The niches of the pillars 
here and in the other parts of the church contain ba¬ 
roque statues of the founders of various orders. By 
the first two pillars of the nave are two holy water 
basins supported by colossal putti. The pavement, 
like the walls, consists entirely of colored marble, in¬ 
laid. By the fourth pillar to the right, on a throne of 
white marble beneath a canopy, is the sitting statue 
of St. Peter in bronze, brought by Paul V from the 
destroyed monastery of San Martino al Vaticano, a 
work of the fifth century, though now ascribed by 
some to be of the thirteenth century. The right foot 
is worn smooth by the kisses of devotees. In front 
of the statue are two large candelabra. Above is a 
mosaic portrait of Pius IX, commemorating the 
twenty-fifth anniversary of his accession to the papal 
throne. Pius IX is the only pope whose pontificate 
was longer than that ascribed to St. Peter. 

The magnificent and plainly decorated dome rests 
on four huge piers, two hundred and thirty-four feet 
in circumference, the niches in the lower parts of 



402 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


which are occupied by statues sixteen feet in height, 
of St. Longinus, the soldier who pierced the side of 
Christ, by Bernini, and St. Helena by Bolgi, St. Ver¬ 
onica by Mocchi, and St. Andrew by Duquesnoy; 
above them are the four loggia of Bernini, where the 
most sacred relics are exhibited on high festivals, on 
which occasions the loggia may be entered by none 
but the canons of St. Peter’s. These relics, each pre¬ 
served in the loggia above the appropriate saint, are 
the spear that pierced the Saviour, a portion of the 
cross, the sudarium of St. Veronica, and the head of 
St. Andrew. Above the loggia are four mosaics of 
the Evangelists after the Cav. d’Arpino, of colossal 
dimensions. The frieze bears the inscriptions in blue 
mosaic letters, six feet high on a gold ground: Tu 
es Peregni caclomm. The sixteen ribs of the vault¬ 
ing of the dome are of gilded stucco; between them 
are four series of mosaics. In the lowest the Saviour, 
the Virgin, and the Apostles; on a level with the lan¬ 
tern, God the Father, by Marcello Provenzale, after 
the Cav. d’Arpino. 

The Vatican. —The Vatican Palace, the largest 
in the world, was originally a dwelling house for the 
popes, erected by Symmachus near the anterior court 
of the old church of St. Peter, though throughout the 
whole of the middle ages the papal residence proper 
was at the Lateran. Additions were made to the 
Vatican by Eugene III, Coelestine III, and Innocent 
III, but it fell into decay during the absence of the 
papal court at Avignon. When the popes returned to 
Rome, they at last took up their permanent abode at 
the Vatican, deserting the Lateran, which had been 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


403 


devastated by a great fire in 1308. After the death of 
Gregory XI, the first conclave was held in the Vatican 
in 1378, which resulted in the schism. In 1450, 
Nicholas V, with a view to render the Vatican the 
most imposing palace in the world, determined to 
unite in it all the government offices and residences 
of the cardinals. On his death he left behind him an 
almost completed palace, including the Library, the 
Appartamento Borgia, and the Stanze, to which Alex¬ 
ander VI added the finishing touch in the shape of 
Torre Borgia. In 1473-81 the Sistine Chapel was 
erected by Sixtus IV, and in 1486-92 the Belvedere, 
or garden-house, by Innocent VIII. Bramente, un¬ 
der Julius II, united the latter with the palace by 
means of a great court. The Loggia round the Ant. 
da Sangallo the Younger under Paul III, and was 
completed in 1573. The stucco decorations of the 
ceiling are by Perin del Vaga, and those over the 
doors by Daniele da Volterra. The large frescoes, 
by Vasari, Salviati, and Zuccari, illustrate the power 
of the Church. Scenes from the ‘‘Night of St. Bar¬ 
tholomew/’ inscription Strages Hugenottorum, etc., 
which was once under them, have been obliterated; 
Alliance of the Spanish and Venetians with Paul V; 
Battle of Lepanto in 1571; Gregory VII absolving 
the Emperor Henry IV; Conquest of Tunis; Gregory 
XI returning from Avington; Alexander III absolv¬ 
ing Frederick Barbarossa. The door in the entrance 
wall, to the left, admits to the Sistine Chapel visitors’ 
knock. 

The Sistine Chapel was erected under Sixtus IV 
by Giov. del Dolci in 1473-81; length, one hundred 



404 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


and thirty-three feet; width, forty-five feet; six win¬ 
dows on each side above. Beautifully decorated mar¬ 
ble screens enclose the space set apart for the clergy. 
The tribune on the right with the handsome balus¬ 
trade is occupied by the choir. The arrangement and 
decoration of the chapel are modeled on those of the 
early Christian basilicas. The lower part of the long 
walls was formerly hung with Raphael’s tapestry at 
festivals, while the upper part is decorated with beau¬ 
tiful frescoes, executed about 1481-83 by the most 
celebrated Florentine and Umbtian masters of the 
period and abounding in contemporary portraits. 
These represent incidents from the life of Christ and 
Moses, arranged in the early ecclesiastical manner, in 
parallel scenes of promise and fulfilment. The two 
series begin at the altar and meet on the entrance 
wall. Perugino and Pinturicchio, Moses with his 
wife Zipporah journeying to Egypt; Zipporah circum¬ 
cises her son; Sandro Botticelli, Moses kills the Egyp¬ 
tian, drives the shepherds from the well, kneels before 
the burning bush; Piero di Cosimo and pupils of Cosi- 
mo Rosselli; Pharaoh’s destruction in the Red Sea, 
C. Rosselli; Moses receives the Law on Mt. Sinai, 
Worship of the Golden Calf, S. Botticelli; Destruction 
of the Company of Korah and of Dathan and Abiram 
in the background is the Arch of Constantine. Luca 
Signorelli and Bart della Gatta, Moses as a law-giver. 
Investiture of Joshua, Mourning over the body of 
Moses. Perugino and Pinturicchio, Baptism of 
Christ; Botticelli, Sacrifices in cleansing a leper and 
Christ’s Temptation; in the background is the then 
recently completed Ospedale di Santo Spirito; Dom. 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


405 


Ghirlandajo, Vocation of Peter and Andrew, in a dig¬ 
nified and severe monumental style; C. Rosselli, Ser¬ 
mon on the Mount, Cure of the leper; Perugino, 
Christ giving the keys to Peter, one of the master’s 
finest monumental works, in spite of defects in the 
composition; C. Rosselli, Last Supper. The frescoes 
on the entrance wall: Resurrection of Christ, origin¬ 
ally by D. Ghirlandajo, and Contest of the Arch¬ 
angel Michael for the body of Moses, by Salviati—* 
were renewed by Arrigo Flammingo and Matteo da 
Lecce by order of Gregory XIII. On the pillars be¬ 
tween the windows twenty-four popes by Fra Dia¬ 
mante, Ghirlandajo, Botticelli, and C. Rosselli. The 
place of honor at the altar, before Michael Angelo 
painted his Last Judgment, was occupied by three 
frescoes by Perugino: the Finding of Moses, Coro¬ 
nation of the Virgin and the Adoration of the Magi. 

The Ceiling: Mirrors provided by the custodian; 
was begun by Michael Angelo on the 10th of May, 
1508, and completed on October 31st, 1512. Whether 
the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, or the Stanze of 
Raphael should be regarded as the culminating effort 
of modern art, has long been a controversy. The 
merit of uniformity of thought and compactness of 
composition must be awarded to the ceiling painting, 
and these attributes are the more worthy of admira¬ 
tion as the subject of the whole series had not been 
agreed upon from the outset. The pictorial enrich¬ 
ment of the ceiling was at first to be limited to the 
figures of the Twelve Apostles, but Michael Angelo, 
perceiving the poverty of the design, prevailed on 
the Pope to allow him to extend it. In order to con- 



406 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


nect the different scenes, Michael Angelo invented an 
imaginative structure with columns, pillars, and cor¬ 
nices in bronze and marble, which rises from the walls, 
and encloses the middle of the ceiling nine sections 
of different sizes. The life-like figures which step 
forth from the architectural members, some of them 
in their natural color, and others of a bronze tint, im¬ 
part to the background such animation and significance 
as to render it an admirable introduction to the large 
central pictures. It is here that the spectator will be¬ 
come fully aware of the importance to a painter of 
a thought acquaintance with architectural designs, and 
of the extent to which Michael Angelo availed himself 
of such acquaintance. 

A description of the central scenes may be given 
nearly in the word of Ascanio Condivi, a pupil of 
Michael Angelo, who, in 1553, wrote the master’s 
life under the eye of the latter. In a painting of 
the ceiling, you observe in the air, God Almighty, 
who, with the motion of His arms, separates light and 
darkness, and creates the two great lights of the 
world. His outstretched right hand touches the sun, 
and the left the moon. Around Him are several 
angels, one of whom hides his face, and presses closer 
to the Creator, as if to screen himself from the bane¬ 
ful influence of the moon. In the same section God 
is again represented as engaged in creating the herbs 
and plants on the earth. He is portrayed with such 
art, that wherever you turn He appears to follow 
you, showing his whole back down to the soles of His 
feet, a very excellent work, proving what can be done 
by foreshortening. In another place God the Lord 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


407 


appears in the air surrounded with angels regarding ✓ 
the waters, and commanding them to bring forth all 
kinds of animals which that element nourishes. The 
Creation of Man: God is seen with outstretched arm 
and hand, as if prescribing to Adam what to do, and 
what to abstain from. With His other arm He en¬ 
closes a group of angels. In another, God draws 
from Adam’s side the woman, who, with folded 
hands stretched out toward God, bows herself with 
a sweet expression, so that it seems she is thanking 
Him, and that He is blessing her. Another, the De¬ 
mon, in female form from the waist upwards, and 
otherwise a serpent, coils himself round a tree; he 
converses w T ith Adam and Eve, whom he persuades 
to disobey their Creator, and hands the forbidden 
fruit to the woman. In the second part you see the 
pair, driven out by the angel, fleeing and terrified 
and sad from the face of God. The sacrifice of Abel 
and Cain is represented. The Flood, with Noah’s 
Ark on the water at a distance, and a few persons 
clinging to it in hopes of saving themselves. Nearer 
is a boat crowded with people, which, owing to its 
undue load, and to the numberless violent shocks of 
waves, is already shipping water and threatening to 
sink. Still nearer the eye, appears above the water 
the top of a mountain, where a number of men and 
women have sought refuge as if on an island. They 
show different emotions, but they all cower, miserable 
and terrified, under a tent stretched over a tree, to 
shelter themselves from the excessive rain. And in 
this scene the wrath of God is represented with great 
art, for He sends upon them lightnings, waters, and 



408 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


storms. There is also another mountain top on the 
right side with a group of people on it in similar 
distress. 

The Picture Gallery of the Vatican was founded 
by Pius VII by collecting the pictures given back by 
the French in 1815, most of which had been taken 
from churches, and by adding others. This gallery is 
inferior to the great Roman private collection in the 
number of its works, but it contains a few master¬ 
pieces of the first rank and almost no work that is not 
good. The permesso is given up here. The pictures 
are furnished with notices of the subjects and the 
names of the artists. 

Guercino, John the Baptist; Leonardo da Vinci, St. 
Jerome, dead coloring, in shades of brown, evidently 
a study of strong perspective, probably painted about 
1480; Raphael, Annunciation, Adoration of the Magi, 
Presentation in the Temple, predelle of the Corona¬ 
tion of Mary; Fra Angelico da Fiesole, Scenes from 
the life of St. Nicholas of Bari; Guercino—Christ and 
Thomas; Francia—Madonna with St. Jerome; Mu¬ 
rillo—Martyrdom of St. Peter Arbues. Carlo Cri- 
velli—Dead Christ with Mary, St. John, and Mary 
Magdalen, The blessed Jacobus della Marca; Garo- 
falo—Madonna with St. Joseph and Catharine. Bart. 
Montagna—Mary Magdalen anointing the Dead 
Christ; Murillo—Adoration of the Shepherds; Mu¬ 
rillo—Betrothal of St. Catharine; Franc Cossa—Mir¬ 
acles of St. Hyacinth; Perugino—SS. Benedict, 
Scholastica, and Placidus; Fra Angelico—Small Ma¬ 
donna with angels on a gold ground; Bonifazio— 
Madonna with St. John and St. Catharine, and St v 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


409 


Peter and St. Paul. Raphael—Faith, Hope, and 
Charity, three charming female figures, predella of 
the Entombment in grisaille. 

Domenichino—Communion of St. Jerome, one of 
his best works. Raphael—Madonna of Foligno; in 
the background the town of Foligno, into which a 
bomb falls; to the right, St. Jerome recommends to 
the Madonna Sigismondo Conti, secretary of Julius II, 
who ordered the painting for Santa Maria in Araco- 
eli, whence it was transferred to Sant’ Anna delle Con- 
tesse in Foligno in 1565; St. Francis of Assisi, and 
John the Baptist. In its striking vigor, the life-like 
individuality of its portraits, and the powerful and 
delicately blended coloring, the Madonna of Foligno 
far surpasses all Raphael’s earlier oil paintings. The 
transference of the picture from wood to canvas, 
effected at Paris, whither the picture had been car¬ 
ried during the wars of the Revolution, has necessi¬ 
tated a little restoration. Raphael, The Transfigura¬ 
tion, his last great work, painted for Cardinal Giulio 
de’Medici, and preserved down to 1797 in San Pietro 
in Montorio. The upper part is by Raphael’s own 
hand: Christ hovering between Moses and Elias; 
Peter, James, and John prostrate on the ground, daz¬ 
zled by the light. The figures, to the left, in an atti¬ 
tude of adoration, are the martyred deacons Felicis- 
simus and Agapitus. The lower half, where the other 
disciples are being requested to heal the possessed 
boy. 

Titian, Portrait of Nice. Marcello, Doge of Venice, 
the ugly face full of individuality. Titian—“Ma¬ 
donna of San Niccolo de’Frari,” Catharine of Alex- 



410 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


andria, Nicholas, Peter, Anthony, Francis, and Sebas¬ 
tian. The energetic fidelity of the coloring, the 
dignity of the design and forms, and the lofty gravity 
of the whole composition renders this much-damaged 
work one of the most important of the master’s mid¬ 
dle period. Guercino, St. Margaret of Cortona. 
Spagnoletto, Martyrdom of St. Lawrence; Guercino 
—Mary Magdalen; Bern. Pinturicchio, Coronation of 
the Virgin, painted for the church della Fratta at 
Umbertide, 1503; below are the Apostles, St. Francis, 
St. Bonaventura, and three Franciscans. Perugino— 
Resurrection, probably painted with some assistance 
from Raphael when a youth; the sleeping soldier to 
the right is said to be Raphael’s portrait, the one 
fleeing to the left that of Perugino. Coronation of 
the Virgin, designed by Raphael for the monastery 
of the Madonna di Monte Luce near Perugia, the 
upper half painted by Romano, the lower by Fran¬ 
cesco Penni in 1525; Lo Spagna—Adoration of the 
infant Christ. Raphael—Coronation of the Virgin, 
painted in 1503 in Perugino’s school, for San Fran¬ 
cesco at Perugia; Perugino, Madonna on a throne 
with Laurentius, Ludovicus, Herculanus, and Con- 
stantius, the guardian saints of Perugia, painted in 
1496. Altar piece in three sections, representing the 
coronation of the Virgin, the Nativity, and the Ador¬ 
ation of the Magi. Caravaggio, Entombment, one of 
the ablest work of the Naturalistic School. Window 
wall: Sassoferrato, Madonna; Niccolo da Foligno, 
Crucifixion of Christ and Coronation of the Virgin, 
two altar pieces in several sections. Between these: 
Melozzo da Forli, fresco from the former library of 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


411 


the Vatican, representing Sixtus IV, the founder, 
with Cardinals Giul. della Rovere and Pietro 
Riario; before him kneels Platina, prefect of the 
library. 

Valentine, Martyrdom of SS. Prosessus and Mar- 
tinianus; Guido-Reni, Crucifixion of St. Peter; Pous¬ 
sin, Martyrdom of St. Erasmus. Baroccio, Annuncia¬ 
tion; Sacchi, Mass of Gregory the Great; Baroccio, 
St. Michelina. Moretto, Madonna with SS. Jerome 
and Bartholomew; Paul Veronese, Vision of St. 
Helena. Guido Reni, Madonna, with SS. Thomas 
and Jerome below; Coreggio, Christ in a nimbus; A 
Sacchi, St. Romuald. 

Among the treasures of the Vatican, in the domain 
of painting, must also be reckoned Raphael’s Tapestry, 
exhibited along with some other tapestries in the 
Galleria degli Arazzi, adjoining the Galleria dei Can- 
delabri. The tapestry was executed from cartoons 
drawn by Raphael in 1515 and 1516, seven of which 
were purchased in Flanders by Charles I of England, 
and are now exhibited in the South Kensington Mu¬ 
seum. These designs, derived from the history of 
the New Testament, are among the most admirable 
of the great master’s works. Each piece of tapestry, 
wrought at Brussels with great skill in wool, silk, and 
gold, when complete cost about seven hundred pounds. 
They were originally intended to cover the lower and 
-unpainted part of the walls in the Sistine Chapel, and 
were exhibited there for the first time on St. Stephen’s 
Day, 1519. During the plundering of Rome, in 1527, 
the tapestry was carried off and seriously injured, but 
it was restored to Julius III in 1553. The numerous 



41 2 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


other copies in tapestry of these cartoons, of which 
the oldest are in Berlin and others in Loreto, Dresden, 
Paris, and Vienna, testify to the widespread admira¬ 
tion which they excited. 

The Appartamento Borgia: Since the death of 
Leo XIII these rooms have been appropriated by the 
Secretary of State as reception rooms, and they are 
accessible with special permission. 

The room of the Seven Liberal Arts is adorned with 
allegorical frescoes by Pinturicchio and his pupils: 
Grammar, Logic, Rhetoric, Geometry, Arithmetic, 
Music, and Astronomy. The chimney-piece, executed 
by Simon Mosca from a drawing by Sansovino, was 
brought from the Gastello Sant’ Angelo. 

To the right are some remains of the original ma¬ 
jolica pavement. A door leads hence to the bedroom 
where Alexander VI died. 

Room of the Credo, like the following, belongs to 
the Torre Borgia. The ceiling frescoes, representing 
the Apostles with the Creed, were perhaps executed 
by Pietro d’ Andrea of Volterra. The mural deco¬ 
rations of painted canvas in Rooms V and VI are 
nearly all modern. Some good grotesques adorn the 
intrados of the window. 

The Vatican Collection of Antiquities, the finest in 
the world, was begun by Popes Julius II, Leo X, Clem¬ 
ent VII, and presents masterpieces, such as the Torso 
of Hercules, the Apollo Belvedere, and the Laccoon, 
date their appearance in the Vatican from that period. 
By far the greater portion of the collection made by 
these art-loving popes was scattered by their succes¬ 
sors in the second half of the sixteenth century, espec- 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


413 


ially by Pius V, and some of their treasures were 
even presented to foreign collections. 

Clement XIV determined to institute a more ex¬ 
tensive collection, in consequence of which the Museo 
Pio-Clementino arose under him and his successor, 
Pius VI. This museum was arranged by the cele¬ 
brated Ennio Quirino Visconti. It was despoiled of 
its costliest treasures by the French in 1797, but most 
of these were restored in 1816. Pius VII added the 
Musco Chiaramonti, and in 1821 the Braccio Nuovo, 
and Gregory XVI the Egyptian and the Etruscan 
Museum. 

Galleria delle Statue, originally a summer house of 
Innocent VIII, and converted into a museum by Clem¬ 
ent XIV and Pius VI. The lunettes and ceiling still 
show traces of the armorial bearings and emblems 
painted for Innocent VIII, part of the decorative 
scheme executed by Pinturicchio and his pupils in 
1487. To the right of the entrance, Thanatos, god of 
death, found on the Via Labican; on the back are 
traces of wings. Above, Relief, erroneously attributed 
to Michael Angelo, Cosimo I, expelling the Vices from 
Pisa; Athlete, resembling the Doryphorus of Polyc- 
letus. Triton, upper part only, found near Trivoli. 
Nymph; Paris, Selene in her chariot, in delicate re¬ 
lief. Draped torso of Apollo Citharcedus, incorrectly 
restored as Pallas with the olive-branch. Greek tomb 
relief, dedicated to the gods of healing. So-called 
Mourning Penelope, a copy on an archaic work; on 
the pedestal a relief of Bacchus and Ariadne, with 
Silenus. Apollo Sauroctonus, lying in wait for a 
lizard, after a bronze statue by Praxiteles. Amazon, 



414 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


from the Villa Mattei. Drunken satyr. Juno, from 
the Thermae of Otricoli; of a late period, freely re¬ 
stored. Posidippus and Menander, two admirable 
statues in Pentelic marble. The visitor may conven¬ 
iently quit this gallery here and inspect that of the 
busts. 

Septimus Severus. Suppliant seated on an Altar, 
looking anxiously upward, with a fragment of a twig 
in the hand; a finer replica in the Pal. Barberini. Nep¬ 
tune Verospi; Apollo Citharcedus, archaic; Wounded 
Adonis. Reclining Bacchus, from the Villa of Ha¬ 
drian. Macrinus, successor of Caracella. In front 
of the last, in the centre, a large alabaster basin, found 
near Santi Apostoli. SEsculapius and Hygieia, from 
Palestrina. Fragments of a son and a daughter from 
the group of Niobe, found, like the Florentine sta¬ 
tues, near the Lateran. So-called Danaid, more prob¬ 
ably a water-carrier. Replica of the Resting Satyr 
of Praxiteles. In the window niche; on the right, 
Greek Stele, found in the church of San Lorenzo in 
Piscibus in 1902. Cinerary urn of oriental alabaster, 
found with the travertine cippi placed under the stat¬ 
ues. It once contained the remains of a member of 
the imperial Julian family. Sleeping Ariadne, found 
in the reign of Julius II; below it, Sarcophagus with 
battle of the giants. At the sides: The Barberini 
Candelabra, the largest and finest in existence, found 
in Hadrian’s villa; on each three reliefs, Jupiter, Juno, 
Mercury, and Mars, Minerva, and Venus. Relief of 
the forsaken Ariadne, similar in treatment to the 
large statue; Mercury; Lucius Verus. 

Hall of the Busts, in four sections. The decoration 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


415 


of the ceiling dates from the reign of Innocent VIII, 
and is probably due to the otherwise little known Pier 
Matteo d’ Amelia. We begin on the right of the en¬ 
trance, in the left corner. First section, below, to the 
right, Head of Hadrian. Nero as Apollo Citharcedus 
with laurel-wreath; Augustus, with chaplet of ears 
of corn. Bust of the Youthful Augustus. Above, in 
the right corner, Caracalla. Second above, Zeus Se- 
rapis, in basalt. Below, Apollo; Saturn; Isis. Head 
of Menelaus, from the group of Menelaus with the 
body of Patroclus, found in 1772 in the Villa of Ha¬ 
drian, a duplicate of the Pasquino group. The legs 
of Patroclus, by the window of the first section, were 
found beside this head. Third above, Masks: Satyrs. 
In the central niche, Seux, formerly in the Pal. Ver- 
ospi. To the left above, Barbarian; below: Portrait 
of a Diadochos as Dionysus, once more in two. Her¬ 
cules. Four in the niche. Woman praying, a so- 
called Pieta; under it Sarcophagus, adorned with 
Prometheus and the Fates; to the left, below. Antin- 
ous; Hera, from an original of the fifth century, B. C. 
In Section One below: Head of Pallas from the Castle 
of Sant’ Angelo. Anatomical representations, in mar¬ 
ble. In the centre, column with three Horae. By the 
entrance to the right: Roman man and woman, tomb 
relief. In the passage leading to the next cabinet: 
Youthful athlete with his slave, Greek bronze relief, 
from the fifth century B. C. 

Gabinetto delle Maschere, so-called from the Mo¬ 
saic within a modern border on the floor, with masks, 
etc., found in Hadrian’s Villa in 1780. On the right 
of the entrance: Dancing Girl, in Pentelic marble, 



418 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


found at Naples; crouching Venus in the bath; Greek 
votive relief. On the entrance wall and the opposite 
wall: Four reliefs of the exploits of Hercules; drying 
her hair. Window wall: At the first window, bathing- 
chair; at the second, fine vase, both of rosso antico. 
In the window; Relief of Bacchanalian procession. 

In finishing our stay in Rome, we drove outside of 
the city walls on the Appian way and Catacombs. 
Passing the Great Forum, The Palatine and Caesar’s 
Palaces, our driver was going at a rapid pace when my 
eyes chanced to drop on the little church of Quo 
Vadis. I went into one of the world's most famous 
buildings. It is made of marble and concrete, and is 
apparently as good to-day as on the day it was fin¬ 
ished. There is no wood composing its structure, and 
I see no reason why it should not last many thousand 
years to come. In size it is about sixteen feet 
wide, and perhaps thirty feet in length. Christ 
preached in this little church, and after His crucifixion 
He appeared to Peter at this church, at which time 
Peter said to him: 

“Dominie Quo Vadis?” (Oh, Lord, which way?) 



CHAPTER XLII 


THE ELEMENTS 

1 was visiting the Zoological Gardens in one of 
Europe’s greatest cities, and perchance I was in the 
Feline House, when the rain began to descend in tor¬ 
rents; let loose, perhaps, by the great vivid flashes of 
lightning in its many zigzag ways, cutting through 
the big, black rain-clouds, emptying them out as the 
lashing of majestic waves. 

The Herbivorous House, containing the elephants, 
rhinoceros, water buffaloes, camels, giraffes, seahorses 
and all other hay-eating animals, stood but two or 
three hundred feet away. The thunder was so in¬ 
tense, its severity was frightful to the strongest nerves. 
I had seen and heard so much that I was less moved 
than others. Streams of the falling rain overflowed 
the sewers and came running, ankle deep, through the 
animal house, where we, perhaps three hundred in 
number, stood. I had noticed the miracle war of ele¬ 
ments without started all the animals in their cages, 
walking uneasily about. As soon as the lions and 
tigers noticed the water coming over the floor of their 
homes, they began to switch their long tails in a man¬ 
ner denoting anger or danger. The hyenas were the 
first to begin. To avoid standing in the water, I 
climbed upon an empty cage next to the one occupied 

417 


418 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


by some leopards, who were at this time plunging 
against the walls of their cage, to force their release. 
It was then we heard the trumpeting of many ele¬ 
phants, the bellowing of the water buffaloes, squeak¬ 
ing, the shrill whinnying, which we afterwards learned 
was emitted by the seahorses. Many other hair-rais¬ 
ing noises, from what animals in the elephant house, 
we could not tell. 

Can the reader realize that danger can seem so ap¬ 
parent that you do not fear it? That was my condi¬ 
tion. The first thing I felt was a pain in my left hand. 
Looking at it, I discovered that I was holding a big 
iron bar with the tenacity of a vice-like grip. By this 
time the lions, tigers, leopards, hyenas, leopard cats, 
and tiger cats were jumping against their cages, which 
added to the fury, intensified by hearing the trumpet¬ 
ing of the elephants. I felt as cool and safe as I do 
now: all fear had vanished. Many women fainted, 
but water did not have to be brought to them. The 
trumpeting of the elephants, and the whinnying noise 
of the seahorses could be heard amidst the claps and 
roaring of the thunder. I was glad to be there. A 
grander spectacular drama could not be staged by 
man’s genius. This was real! Real thunder in 
clouds certainly not a mile away, for although the 
time was two o’clock p. m., the myriads of electric 
lamps were in full illumination throughout the entire 
building. Yet, as flash after flash of lightning sent 
its blazing light through the building, the vast room 
would for a while thereafter seem dark, until the eye 
again became accustomed to the electric light. 

I was never so proud of an opportunity to see such 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


419 


a drama in real life. In the very height of my admira¬ 
tion and happiness, a big elephant that had broken 
loose came trumpeting to our door. He circled his 
trunk over his head, as he emitted a trumpet which 
rivalled even the thunder. I would then have given 
my last dollar to be at home. What made him stop? 
Was it the fear of so many humans? Was it man’s 
power over brute strength? Not a man or woman 
moved. Was it their apparent readiness to fight the 
great brute he feared? If he had come running 
through the building he would have trodden them to 
death, as their fear made them immovable, helpless. 
It was at this critical moment that the monster grizzly 
bear immediately opposite me ceased his weird circling 
of his cage, seeking a way to escape. He now sat 
erect on his haupches in the middle way of his cage 
and struck the iron bars with his big hairy paws, as 
might a muscular blacksmith strike the bars with a 
heavy sledge hammer. 

For a time the tensile strength of the steel bars 
withstood the weight of the impact, but finally they 
yielded to a greater strength. This the big brute 
saw at once, and his encouraging tenacity grew, to 
w^hich he added screams of delight, with instinct al¬ 
most human. He bent the one bar one way, then with 
his left paw concentrated the strength of his blows 
to the next, finally bending it in the opposite direc¬ 
tion. 

Then pushing his nose between the bent bars, he 
snarled at those present, trying to spread the bars by 
wedging his nose and head between them. This last 
act caused the frightened people to be awe-stricken. 



420 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


By this time the big elephant had come around to 
the other entrance of the building and would have 
entered had it not been for his keeper, who grabbed 
him with his hook on his proboscis, but it did not lessen 
the peals of his trumpeting. Two keepers with sharp- 
pointed irons attacked the big bear, and with the 
greatest difficulty drove him to the remotest corner of 
his cage, and beyond the torture of his assailants, 
where he remained, rubbing his bleeding nose with his 
seemingly well-trained paw. 

It was now the height of fear, and pandemonium 
reigned supreme. Nearly every elephant was loose. 
The body of a dead camel was by one of the elephants 
thrown across the south door entrance, with the ease 
of a man flinging the carcass of a rabbit. This act 
could only be done by a huge elephant. The wind was 
now abating, though the lightning redoubled its ef¬ 
forts to outdo all its former efforts. The thunder 
was at its glory, its clap after clap in the clouds caus¬ 
ing echoes in the rumbling sounds beneath the earth 
to shake the building anew. Not an animal there but 
was lashed by all his native jungle fury. The dis¬ 
cords of voices, the hopeless plunging against cages 
certainly brought the drama to the zenith of pande¬ 
monium madness. The trumpeting of the elephants 
seemed in the distance ; or was it, that the roaring 
of the lions and tigers drowned the outer noises? 
One thing sure, the frightened, stricken multitude of 
people assumed more calmness. Do not accuse me of 
an over-desire to appear inquisitive or officiously 
funny for noticing that more than two-thirds of the 
audience were women, and it was noticeable what a 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


421 


lack of fainting there was when there were no mascu¬ 
line arms to fall into. In fact, I am sure that there 
were many women there who would have, if asked, 
aided the keepers in restraining the animals in their 
efforts to escape. I then bethought myself of the 
bravery of woman in battle. Then I saw how cow¬ 
ardly I was to climb up and run my arm through an 
iron cage to protect myself against the wrath of wild 
beasts, while perhaps two hundred or more defense¬ 
less women stood nearby unarmed. 

It recalled a life incident, where I saw one big man 
chase another of his size to whip him. The coward 
ran in among a dozen or more of his friends for pro¬ 
tection, and it then took nearly half of them to hold 
him in his efforts to attack his assailant. But what 
could poor me do ? I would not make a mouthful for 
the big grizzly, should he get loose; one slap of the 
paw of a lion would send me across the river. If I 
bravely caught a falling form of a fainting woman, 
all the rest would do likewise, or become so jealous 
as to make my life unsafe. 

The lightning became less vivid, consequently the 
thunder lessened its sharp cracks and its deep bass 
mumblings; as the wrath of the elements quieted down, 
so did the fury of the caged beasts. The odor of the 
jungle gave place to the quietude of civilization. The 
thunder went to sleep, and the lightning formed new 
places for its labors. The clouds settled back behind 
the hills, and all the veils obscuring the sun disap¬ 
peared. The air assumed its usual warmth of spring. 
The animals ceased their fright; many of them 
stretched their battered bodies on the floor; some of 



422 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


them were licking their own paws, others licking the 
wounded heads of companions. One lone, big, long¬ 
maned lion, as though standing guard, stood in the 
center of his cage, not noticing the now moving body 
of humans, but his eager eye was on every cage in 
the house. He stood a sentinel. Truly the lion is 
indeed the king of beasts. It was he who gave the 
first alarm of danger. It is he who seemingly com¬ 
mands all the rest of the animals that the danger is 
past. The casual observer of this scene could not 
fail to notice the occasional glances of the eyes from 
all other cages toward the big sentinel. 

By this time we had all reached the green grounds 
without. The sun never shone with such welcomed 
warmth, for during the severity of the storm the air 
seemed chilly enough to produce a hailstorm. 

Yes, we were all outside the house of the feline 
tribe. We were standing together. Perhaps every 
bird in the aviary that could sing a note had attuned 
his voice for our entertainment. Truly this is na¬ 
ture’s extremes. Like the movement of one person, 
we, without a single exception, moved toward and 
entered the aviary. Our presence gave to the musical 
voices within the same encouragement that a large 
and appreciative audience in a theatre gives to the 
dramatic personnel of the stage. What are we, this 
big human family? It is said we have our likes and 
dislikes; better we say, we have our loves and affec¬ 
tions for each other. But an hour before we were as 
but one trembling body, fearing the wrath of the 
heavens, as well as the ferocious animals of the dark 
jungles. Now another scene presents: the curtain is 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


423 


run back and the warmth of the sun, and the singing 
of nature’s songsters from the mountains, the hill 
and meadow form as one inharmonious acclaim to 
gladden the hearts of their auditors. 

I was studying the mental situation; in doing this, I 
gained an eminence permitting an easy sweep of the 
eye of the audience. One Boston lady, whose ac¬ 
quaintance, up to this time, I had not the pleasure 
of making, musingly suggested: 

“There are no dangers here.” 

Chatting, laughing, and freedom of talk became 
the order, giving place to sorrow, fear and wailing 
of an hour before. The scenes I so feebly relate, from 
one to the other, could only be properly presented by 
a genius possessing descriptive powers far beyond the 
scope of my unmatured and amateur efforts of what 
I saw and felt. 

The air was again soft and balmy. The world 
was again regaled in the vale of spring. The song 
birds sang where the elephants so recently trod, and 
their songs were sweet and clear. The trumpeting 
of the elephants and the roaring of the wild lions 
were now perhaps echoing and re-echoing miles and 
miles away. Yet, but an hour or less ago, nature’s 
grandest panorama and spectacular drama reached its 
highest climax. Now, every living actor was resting 
quietly, as though his part was the outgrowth of 
years of careful training and he was taught every 
stage movement he so dramatically acted and tragic¬ 
ally presented in nature’s own way. 

I have seen many stage interpretations of storms; 
the presentation of the Galveston storm and flood, the 



424 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


most real and sublime. But were it possible for the 
genius of man to invent a contrivance that would 
produce sounds of thunder so loud as to shake the 
earth ; and to throw the reflections of vivid streaks 
of lightning around among the audience without in¬ 
jury, and also to have a vast collection of denizens 
of the jungles securely caged to insure safety; if 
such artificial, elemental storm would stir the mental 
fear of the animals for their own safety, that I wit¬ 
nessed this day, and they gave a like performance, a 
one hundred dollars’ admission ticket would be but 
a trifle to pay. 



CHAPTER XLIII 


FLORENCE 

With feelings of regret we left Rome, and that 
evening were in Florence, the capital of Tuscany, now 
a province of the kingdom of Italy. Florence is an 
archiepiscopal See. It is situated one hundred and 
twenty-five miles north of Rome, 43 0 50' north lati¬ 
tude, and ii° 14/ east longitude; on both sides of the 
river Arno, which here flows through a wide valley 
bounded by spurs of the Apennine range to the north, 
and by the lower hills to the south of the city. The 
bed of the river at Florence is one hundred and thirty- 
eight feet above the Mediterranean. The geological 
formation of the surrounding country is Upper Cre¬ 
taceous and Older Tertiary, partly covered by the 
fossiliferous, the upper Arno beds being of Newer 
Tertiary, containing elephant bones. Pietra forte, be¬ 
longing to the Cretaceous, a durable sandstone with 
calcareous ingredients, is largely quarried south of 
Florence, and has been used for centuries as paving- 
stones for the city, as well as in the construction of 
the city walls, the palazzi, churches, etc. North of 
Florence, pietra serena or macigno, a pure sandstone 
belonging to the Tertiary beds, is likewise worked for 
building purposes; its texture being finer than that of 

425 


426 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


the pietra forte, it had been adopted for the interior 
of churches and houses. 

The soil is remarkably fertile; grain, vines, and 
olives cover hill and valley, while the mountains, 
which rise above three thousand feet, have the cy¬ 
press, ilex, chestnut, and pine. The country is cele¬ 
brated for the abundance of its flowers. 

Besides some excellent private collections, such as 
those of the Torrigiani, Corsini, and Strozzi, the 
Ufflzi contains a very fine gallery of paintings, espec¬ 
ially of the Tuscan school, but including several of 
Raphael’s and Titian’s masterpieces. The greatest 
treasures of the gallery are contained in one room 
called the Tribune, where are also placed the most 
celebrated statues of antiquity. A suite of small rooms 
contain some admirable specimens of other schools of 
painting. In one of the larger rooms is the famous 
group of the Niobe; two others are filled with por¬ 
traits of artists, chiefly by their own hands; and there 
are, besides, valuable collections of busts, coins, 
medals, gems, engraving's, and drawings by the old 
masters. The Pitti collection of paintings is perhaps 
the finest in the world, not only from the chefs 
d’oeuvre of the great masters, but from the small num¬ 
ber of pictures which may be considered of more than 
mediocre merit. The Academy is assigned for the 
best examples of early art down to the time of Fra 
Angelico and Perugino; and connected with it are the 
cloisters of the former convent of the Scalzo or bare¬ 
footed friars, where are some of the finest works of 
Andrea del Sarto in chiaroscuro. The Egyptian Mu¬ 
seum in the Via Faenza is small, but contains several 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


427 


objects of interest, and the museum of Etruscan art 
under the same roof is peculiarly important from a 
life-sized bronze statue, a marble Greek sarcophagus 
with a colored representation of the battles between 
the Greeks and Amazons, and a terra-cotta statue of a 
lady in the costume of the third century before Christ. 
Here also is an interesting fresco of the Last Supper 
attributed to Raphael; whilst the Convent de’ Pazzi 
possesses the finest work of his master Perugino, a 
Crucifixion, now open to the public. 

There are three large and valuable libraries in the 
city: the National Library, which unites the former 
library of the Pitti with the Magliabecchian, the two 
together containing two hundred and eighty thou¬ 
sand volumes; the Marucelliana, chiefly remarkable 
for important works of art; and the Laurentian, 
founded by Lorenzo de’ Medici, and attached to the 
convent of San Lorenzo. This last is rich in a col¬ 
lection of more than nine thousand valuable manu¬ 
scripts, as well as illuminated Bibles and missals, 
and possesses about twenty thousand volumes 
of print. The pride of the collection is an original 
and perhaps unique copy of the Pandects of Jus¬ 
tinian. 

Florence was originally a small trading village be¬ 
longing to the Etruscan city of Fiesole, whence mer¬ 
chandise was sent down the Arno to Pisa, then a sea¬ 
port. When colonized by the soldiers of Sulla, it 
gradually attained the dignity of a city, with the 
rank and privileges of a municipium. The name Flor- 
entina may have been derived from Florinus, a Ro¬ 
man general, or from Fluentia, because situated at 



428 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


the confluence of the Arno and Mugnone, or from 
the profusion of flowers growing in the vicinity. 

In the reign of Tiberius Caesar the Florentines sent 
an embassy to Rome to deprecate a decree of the Ro¬ 
man senate, by which, in order to check the inunda¬ 
tions caused by the number of tributary streams flow¬ 
ing into the Tiber, it had been proposed to turn the 
Chiano into the Arno. Christianity was first intro¬ 
duced in 313 A. D., and the most celebrated of early 
Florentine bishops was Zanobius, who died in 417, and 
to whom various miracles are ascribed. During his 
lifetime an invading army of barbarians approached 
Florence, but were defeated and destroyed in the fast¬ 
nesses by the Roman general Stilicho. The Floren¬ 
tines, however, attributed the preservation of their city 
to the prayers of Zanobius. The victory was won in 
405 in October, on a day dedicated to a youthful saint, 
Reparata, who is said to have appeared in the midst 
of the battle, bearing in her hand a blood-red banner 
with the device of the white lily, which from that 
time became the badge of the city, whilst a new cathe¬ 
dral, built on the site of the old church of San Sal¬ 
vador, received her name. Florence had suffered the 
fate of other Italian cities at the hands of northern in¬ 
vaders when Charlemagne, on his way to Rome, re¬ 
built its walls. Commerce began to flourish in the 
tenth century, when as yet German nobles or their de¬ 
scendants, who held their castles in fief of the Ger¬ 
man emperors, dwelt beyond the city. The Pope, be¬ 
cause an Italian sovereign, was regarded as the repre¬ 
sentative of national independence, and when Tuscany 
fell to the inheritance of the Countess Matilda, the 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


429 


Florentines found in her a patriotic champion of their 
rights, as well as a staunch adherent of the reigning 
Pope Gregory VII. 

A second circle of walls was built as a protection 
again the imperialists, and Matilda obliged some of 
the powerful nobles in the neighborhood to yield their 
lands to the canons of Sta. Raparata. She died in 
1115, leaving a name beloved by the Florentines that 
their female children were frequently christened Con- 
tessa, or Tessa, in remembrance of their benefactress. 
As the Florentines conquered the castles of the robber 
chieftains who infested their neighborhood, they 
obliged them to reside within their city—an impolitic 
measure, which sowed seeds of future discord and 
civic war. The romantic story of the Buondelmonti, 
whose assassination in 1215, for a breach of promise 
of marriage, occasioned a fierce outbreak of strife, is 
an instance of the many feuds that caused bloodshed 
during centuries. 

The first consul, Napoleon Bonaparte, conquered 
Tuscany, and whilst Ferdinand renounced his rights on 
condition of a compensation in Germany, one of the 
Bourbons of Parma was placed on his throne, as king 
of Etruria. Tuscany was annexed to the French em-. 
pire in 1808, but in 1809 the grand duchy was re¬ 
stored in favor of Eliza Bonaparte Bacciochi, sister 
of the emperor Napoleon. 

Her reign lasted only five years, and after Napoleon 
had been exiled to Elba, Ferdinand resumed his sover¬ 
eignty. On this occasion an Austrian, Prince Ros- 
pigliosi, was sent to Florence to announce his arrival, 
and in his proclamation he declared Tuscany to be an 



430 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 



inheritance and patrimony of the imperial house of 
Austria. The vain attempt of Lombardy in 1820 to 
shake off the Austrian yoke, an attempt in which the 
crown prince of Piedmont, Carlo Alberto was secretly 
implicated, ended in the incarceration of some of the 
noblest Italian patriots in the Austrian fortress for a 
period from sixteen to twenty years. It was vain for 
Fossombroni to protest, and declare that the Tuscan 
government did not require Austrian soldiers to play 
the masters; Austrian soldiers arrived to occupy Tus¬ 
cany as well as the other Italian states, and the aulic 
counsellor Menz wrote to Prince Metternich that “the 
Tuscan Government, led to reflect on its dangers, had 
assumed a firmer attitude, and constituted a more ac¬ 
tive and vigilant police, and at all events, the respect 
inspired by Austrian bayonets placed at the gates of 
Tuscany was sufficient to dispel revolutionary ideas.” 
Ferdinand died in 1833, and was succeeded by his son 
Leopold II, who had married a Neapolitan princess. 
Alarmed by the revolutionary movements of 1847, 
Leopold, like other Italian princes, granted his people 
a constitution, but when they further demanded to be 
led against the Austrians to assist in driving the for¬ 
eigner from Italy, he reluctantly permitted the Tus¬ 
cany army, chiefly consisting of young volunteers, to 
depart. The enthusiastic youths who fought for the 
independence of their country, displayed unwonted 
valor at Curtalone and Montanara; but the grand duke 
signified his displeasure by withdrawing titles and pen¬ 
sions from even the surgeons who attended the 
wounded in the field of battle. Among the liberals in 
Florence who had long been seeking opportunity to 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


431 


shake off foreign interference in the government of 
their country, were men of the greatest moderation 
and virtue—Baron Bettino Ricasoli, the Marchese 
Cosimo Aidolfi, the poets Niccolini and Guisti, Sal- 
vagnoli, the Marchese Nerie Corsini, and the Mar¬ 
chese Gino Capponi, the last of that family illustrious 
for virtue, for genius, and for patriotism. The grand 
duke, who either shared the principles of his family, 
or had not courage to place himself at the head of the 
distinguished men who coincided with the view of the 
Piedmontese minister Cavour, invited Austrian troops 
in 1850 again to occupy his dominions, and though 
Leopold affected to submit to necessity, the Austrian 
general declared he would not have come uninvited. 
This occupation lasted six years, with power of life 
and death over Tuscan commanders. 

When Victor Emmanuel, king of Piedmont and 
Sardinia, with the assistance of France, made war 
against Austria for the independence of Italy in 1859, 
a vain hope was still entertained that Leopold would 
have consented to unite his army with that of Pied¬ 
mont; but that proclamation of war went forth with¬ 
out a sign from Tuscany. On the 27th of April, 1859, 
the Tuscan troops unanimously declared their inten¬ 
tion to throw down their arms unless they were al¬ 
lowed to join the war of independence. The liberals 
insisted on the abdication of Leopold in favor of his 
son, and on an offensive and defensive alliance with 
Piedmont. Leopold declined these proposals, and 
quitted Florence with his family, amidst the silence of 
the assembled multitudes, never to return. 

The following year Victor Emmanuel entered Flor- 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


432 

ence, which in 1865 became the capital of his kingdom 
of Italy. It was not until 1870 that the hopes of the 
Florentines were disappointed, and the seat of gov¬ 
ernment was transferred to Rome. 

How easy it is to say that Florence is the home 
of art, and how one would like it to be true! But, 
by the Globe Trotter, it cannot be truthfully said. 
Walking from my hotel to a street corner near by, 
one may glance around the square perhaps six hundred 
feet each way. On each corner stands a marble statue 
ten to fifteen feet in height; some single statues, others 
in groups, of men and women, and at that distance 
it does not take the eye of a hunter to name the sex 
of the subjects—nude, why not? If a statue is of 
a man, let it be a man only, unattracted by uniform 
or robes. I have seen men so effeminate in appear¬ 
ance, action and voice that, if dressed in a female 
gown, it would be difficult to make any one believe 
their true sex. I have seen women so masculine in 
voice and appearance that I ofttimes doubted their sex 
though in female attire. Then why not make the 
statue of man or woman as nature made them? In 
the full development of noble manhood, and the meek 
beauty of pure womanhood? An imperfect man is 
but part man. There are hundreds of thousands of 
men who should never be fathers and myriads of 
women who should never be mothers. The conceptive 
mind and eye of great painters and sculptors appeal 
alone to the perfection of human physical develop¬ 
ment, and to that end alone they work. I saw to¬ 
day in one of the large galleries, a painting present¬ 
ing Michael Angelo at the tender age of five years 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


433 


astride a big block of marble, chisel and mallet in 
hand, chipping out of the cold stone his first statue of 
man, and this then infantile subject, innocent as in¬ 
nocence, steadying his eye, hand and mind in making 
his pathway to the highest fame in sculpture and 
painting that man ever attained, had in mind, work, 
and subject, man—that was what this angel child's 
chisel and mallet produced unaided by any one. 

I feel that my mind is not easily disturbed by things 
not concerning myself personally, but I cannot too 
strongly express my feelings in opposition to the 
weak, or perhaps I had more appropriately said in¬ 
artistic beings who claim that nude art is vulgar, or 
immodest to behold. Immodesty is not in the paint¬ 
ing or the statue, it is in the eye and the willing mind 
that conceives immodest thoughts. The old maid who 
never went swimming because her garb would show 
her shapeless form—oh, water, you mean accuser; 
the shapeless mother that went to her room, pulled 
down the curtain and locked the door, while pretend¬ 
ing to nourish her infant, while truthfully giving the 
babe over-due milk from a cold bottle; or that effem¬ 
inate young man who balances his brain in parting his 
hair, or that blue-blooded father that is fisty at home, 
prays the loudest in camp meetings, goes home latest 
when camp meetings close and is the biggest sport in 
the crowd when two hundred miles away from home, 
are the kind of people who condemn nude art. This 
city is, figuratively speaking, full of tourists from 
North and South America, France and England, and 
quite a few from the Orient; perhaps six to ten 
thousand people passed through and examined the art 




THE GLOBE TROTTER 


434 

galleries and halls to-day. Each party having a lec¬ 
turing guide proclaiming the name of the painting or 
statue, the date of its origin, the name of the artist or 
sculptor, and the place it has in history; if mythologi¬ 
cal, its meaning. Among these thousands were women 
from their seventies, down to little girls that have noc 
yet attained their ’teens accompanied by their mothers 
and their fathers, standing all together hearing the 
lectures, and the attention drawn to their perfection, 
with not a blush or side remark. Perhaps a hundred 
of the ladies of our touring party, with whom I have 
been associated for the past three months, and whom 
I am pleased to say are perfect in lady-like conduct, 
viewed and admired these art treasures as I did, in 
the true artistic spirit. But few ignorant people ex¬ 
pend their money in improving their minds in travel. 

May I add, by way of illustration, that if a man 
or woman voluntarily disrobed even in the presence 
of his or her own sex, it is immodest and of itself is 
an act of vulgarity. But should a woman by an ac¬ 
cident or involuntary act, remove her clothing in the 
presence of others, such act of misfortune is neither 
vulgar or immodest. Hence, I say, that immodesty 
is not in the eye, but in the heart, or in the eye’s 
desire. 

So let it be said in the twentieth century, that the 
nude art is harmless and modest, though the weak¬ 
ness of want of knowledge may claim otherwise. 


i 



CHAPTER XLIV 


ANCIENT ART 

. I 

To write of ancient art is not an easy matter,, 
though one may see all the galleries. If all the works 
of all the masters were in one gallery, the criticism 
could easily be done. But we find the paintings as 
well as the sculptures of the old masters in Rome, 
Venice, Florence, Paris, Versailles, Naples, and 
Genoa. 

These works belong to the numerous renowned 
masterpieces which centuries ago were indispensable 
adjuncts to the display of cultured refinement coupled 
with wealth. These great marble statues and paint¬ 
ings, also the candelabra, lamps, baziers, jars, jugs,, 
caskets, bracelets, and even cooking utensils, as well 
as the diamond studded sword hilts, betray the taste 
as well as the customs of the people in the different 
ages. The same may be said of figures in bronze, 
many exhibiting the most unique work of man’s 
genius in any age. It is my purpose here to describe 
a few of these wonderful masterpieces. I do so with 
the assurance that some reader who has seen copies 
of them will say the author placed the subject in the 
wrong city. No one will say so, if he has seen them 
all, and was as careful as I was in securing the names 

435 


436 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


at the time and also in securing the photos of the pic¬ 
tures of the great works. 

I have looked with delight, as well as wonder, on 
the lifelike appearance of the sculptured marble, the 
almost breathing appearance of the paintings, then I 
would walk out and look at the ruins of the mammoth 
buildings, and walk through and over the ruins where 
once stood buildings that have never been ecpialed in 
size, cost or grandeur since their destruction. While 
walking about the Acropolis at Athens, seeing great 
granite lintels and columns, a few of them yet in 
place, I wondered how they were ever put in the posi¬ 
tions from whence they fell, and where many are yet 
standing. I then look at the country surrounding 
these ruins and at once notice the picturesque grandeur 
of the view. Particularly did I notice the landscape 
at Athens while standing on the ruins of the Acropo¬ 
lis. From this point one has a bird’s-eye view of 
Piraeus, six miles away, and of Athens at its feet, and 
far out as the eve can penetrate into the waters of the 
Aegean Sea. One sweep of the eye enthralls the 
heart, and the mind wonders how clever the Greeks 
were antedating the Christian era in selecting such a 
site to erect this building. I was impelled in a sense 
of feeling that truly I was standing in the birthplace 
of art and architecture. I viewed these stately struc¬ 
tures, which climatic action for centuries, as well as 
wanton vandalism, have been unable to destroy. These 
great columns, many yet standing, arouse inspiring 
memories of bygone ages. I stopped and pondered in 
reverie and asked myself, “why do not people of this 
age rebuild these edifices, with the material here piled 



_ THE GLOBE TROTTER _43T 

up in their ruins ?” One in a happy slumber may 
dream or have visions of such a place as this, but 
could a dream conceive of such material as composed 
these great edifices and may still be seen in their im¬ 
posing ruins! I again looked at the sea, and it seems 
nearly at my feet, though six miles away—the glit¬ 
tering Aegean waters; picturing the reflection of these 
grand old temples before their ruin, reflected back 
their shadows surrounded by the smiles of nature, in 
the Hellenic days of Paris, Agamemnon and Achilles, 
when love's lust caused a tremendous war. My mind 
reflected on the immensity of the Roman Forum, per¬ 
haps the largest edifice ever erected, but it is not in a 
picturesque place like the Acropolis. 

I thought of Solomon's temple, but that too was 
built in an inland city, and while the Roman Forum, 
as well as the Temple, may have been of equal solidity 
and splendor, this edifice has surpassing wealth of 
form and sculptured ornaments. Here the floor and 
all interior finishing was smoothly polished marble; 
many of the marble statuary are yet in place; atmos¬ 
pheric action has failed to obliterate their colors, or 
mar their smoothness. 

The designs bring to view only what is indispensa¬ 
ble and essential to its strength and beauty. This ma¬ 
jestic temple with its dense array of mighty columns, 
with its lofty and ponderous entablature and far-reach¬ 
ing cornice, in strength of proportion, in beauty and 
fineness of outline, presents itself as a true character 
of Greek art and impels us to believe that the archi¬ 
tecture of those days is now a lost art. 

I next visited the National Museum in Athens, 



438 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


where rare antiquities of sculpture and paintings may 
be seen, many of the marble sculptures, the handi¬ 
work of Phidias, are still there. The genius of his 
brain executed these, while men of like character were 
building the Parthenon. Greek sculptor work in mar¬ 
ble will always be sought after, not that it differs so 
much from Italian art of the same character, but 
Greek art is strictly Greek. Some connoisseur may 
say it is the best, but I feel that a large majority of 
those who had like opportunity to know, will still leave 
to Italy her rose of glory. Passing from the marble 
halls to the galleries alone ornamenated by the paint¬ 
ings of the old Greek masters we saw many paintings 
that caused a pause to examine their artistic complete¬ 
ness of finish, their lifelike expression and freshness 
though painted by Polygnotus, probably one of the 
greatest artists of any age. Phidias, during all his 
manhood, wanted his name connected with that of 
Polygnotus as a contemporary. I recall to memory 
that Phidias was a favorite of Pericles. 

Perhaps Polygnotus’ greatest masterpiece is the one 
in which he so artfully attempts to describe the lower 
kingdom, combining it with the good. Here he por¬ 
trays the horrors meted out to the sinner. In this one 
scene he skilfully alternates peacefulness and happi¬ 
ness with the torments of hell. Perhaps no other 
painter or poet could so accurately describe the forms 
of religious rites, humorous traditional habits, and the 
technic of the epic poem as could Polygnotus. His 
masterpieces are history that may with great benefit 
be subjects of study. The inspiration of his mind 
must have been actuated by captivating motives 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


439 ' 


strongly alluring to his lofty imagination, and he 
freely, with a steady hand, gave expression to the 
breadth of his work in all the realm of his fancy. 
Again in considering that the technical means at his 
disposal in those days were so limited, in our day 
we should give him greater credit than should be 
given to any other man of his class. 

His great pictures of the Centaurs, the mother Cen¬ 
taur, with human body erect giving nourishment to 
one of her twin infants as would a human mother, 
the father Centaur, more beastly than human, holding 
a young lion to frighten the infants, looks down on 
the mother and babies with brutal delight and reck¬ 
less care. The mother possesses a beautiful female 
body, so artistically connected or blended with the 
body of the horse, that one looking at the human 
part nearly forgets the part of the beast. Perfect 
harmony and delicate shading in the blending of 
colors and effect is largely what gives to the painter 
the title of genius. 

To the Greeks should be credited the success of the 
Helladic school of painters and Athens the Mecca. 
But Athens is not the only possessor of these gems of 
art. We find them in many other galleries, and there 
were as many different schools of art, as there were 
great painters. Pausias’ greatest masterpiece, Iphi- 
geneia, portrays this beautiful woman standing at the 
altar, nearly encircled by Grecian warriros, yielding 
to the unrestrained hand of the law, submitting her¬ 
self to sacrifice, her facial expression trying to re¬ 
strain the inward emotions that caused her shadowed 
mental anguish. A diversion of expressions could 



440 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


be seen in the faces of the old warriors; some indica¬ 
tive of sorrow, others of revenge, others careless of 
results, still others willing the will of the gods should 
decide. In the eyes of Iphigenia can be seen a ray of 
hope for the preservation of her life, but weak, as 
were her hopes. For she had the cruel Agamemnon 
to deal with, heartless as a tiger. 

Perhaps one of Aristides’ greatest paintings is of a 
mother, wounded in battle, and during the throes of 
death giving nourishment to her infant, the infant 
tenaciously clinging to her breast. It was evidently 
the intention of the painter to portray on the face of 
the dying woman an expression indicating she did not 
fear death, but did fear that the infant nursing at her 
bosom would partake of the blood flowing from her 
mortal wound. One's mind must be attuned to the 
mother's thought to discover the mother’s fears; per¬ 
haps one having a wealth of imagery could readily 
see the difference. That the face is lined with agony, 
care and fear, no observer doubts. Up to this time the 
effeminate type of divinity was the subject of the 
painter’s thoughts. The splendor reserved for heroes 
had just begun to bud into the works of art. The 
initiative of masculine subjects in art grew slowly, 
though it presently grew into an acquirement. The 
sculptor and painter alike contributed to the artistic 
beauty of masculine portraiture. Following this di¬ 
version comes the art of decorating the homes with 
the wealth and luxury becoming the means of the 
people, many of the homes becoming palaces of splen¬ 
dor. To the decoration of stucco and paintings on 
walls, on sides and ceilings, was added mosaic work 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


441 


on the floors, bringing the floors out in beautiful re¬ 
lief, which new art of decorations was soon taken up 
by the Roman copying freely from the Greek. 

Reasoning from analogy makes it easy to conceive 
that the advancement of art and its liberal use in dec¬ 
orating homes and public buildings added largely not 
only to the happiness of the people, but also to a more 
friendly relation between countries caused by many 
pleasant excursions of representatives of the various 
nations to view the work of masters; in this way a 
better feeling grew out of more intimate acquaintance. 



CHAPTER XLV 


VENICE 

At last in Venice, the city of the gods! I cannot 
describe Venice. I will just attempt to do so, the best 
my feeble efforts command. It was dark when the 
train from Florence slowed up. We were soon in a 
big gondola, our trunks put into another gondola. 
An oarsman, using but one oar, scudded us around 
the canals under the arches, meeting gondolas without 
touching them. It was but thirty minutes until we 
were in our hotel. The clerk was having our names 
registered, speaking to each guest in his own language. 
He gibbered English, French, German, Greek and 
Italian fluently. 

“Ed like to have that fellow to travel with me,” I 
suggested to one of my traveling companions. 

There are many things about Venice that make it 
poetically beautiful, being associated with local attrac¬ 
tions of such nature as to enable one object to help 
another. I have often thought of the mutual associa¬ 
tion of objects before. An ordinary face set on a 
beautiful body will make a beautiful woman; or mag¬ 
nificent appearing man; set the same face on an indif¬ 
ferent body, and it will scarcely be noticed. Associate 
the ordinary face on the beautiful body, of one noted 
for noble qualities, goodness of heart and industrious 

442 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


US 

in acts for the betterment of man, and you have a 
man or woman noted for her beauty, or a man known 
for his nobility. So it is here in Venice. One may 
stop and study the causes, then ask himself, “does the 
beauty of this place depend on its buildings, its canals, 
or the sea ?” The buildings do not compare favorably 
with those we saw a few days ago in Rome; the sea 
is no comparison to the Bay of Naples we left ten days 
ago. Yet, we find something fascinatingly beautiful 
here. What is it? It is the association of the sea with 
the canals, and the canals with the buildings, and the 
buildings with the uses for which they are employed. 
What would this Adriatic sea be without these canals, 
without these buildings; and what would these build¬ 
ings be without the treasured paintings and scupltured 
marble statues within? There can be nothing more 
poetical in its construction than the association of 
these various objects of interest that make up this 
grand, beautiful, and poetical city. 

A canal runs between the palace and the prison, 
the Bridge of Sighs connects them; the gondolas pass 
beneath the Bridge of Sighs. Perhaps a band of 
twenty to thirty gondoliers, with as many different 
musical instruments, while playing on the instruments 
and as many more human voices singing some national 
Italian song, pass in the canal beneath the Bridge of 
Sighs, just as some doomed convict is passing above 
for the last time over the Bridge of Sighs, that knows 
no return. This is not tragedy, it is poetry, because 
of the combination of the associations that make it 
poetry. You read of the beauties of the sea, but did 
you ever see a painting of the sea without a ship, a 



444 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


boat, a rock or a monster whale? Take from the 
sea the mighty waves associated with the invisible 
winds, and you have nothing but an unsightly flat 
body of water. 

If the Parthenon were at Pirasues, though by the 
sea it would scarcely be noticed; but being on the 
rock where it stands, commanding Athens and the 
Aegean Sea in its boundless visage, it is universally 
recognized as one of poetical wonderment, and as I 
stood within its ruins but a few weeks ago, and while 
my eyes were sweeping the vastness of the grandest 
of scenery, I soliloquized, “it is no wonder the Par¬ 
thenon was built on the Acropolis, a rocky plateau of 
crystalline limestone, rising precipitously to a height 
of five hundred and ten feet above the sea!” Before 
us lie the bay of Phaleron, the peninsula of Muny- 
chia, the town and harbor of Piraeus, and the island of 
Salamis, in front of which is the small island of 
Psyttaleia, with its lighthouse. A little farther to the 
right, beyond the Bay of Elensis, rises the clome-like 
rock of Acro-Corinth, backed by loftier and more dis¬ 
tant heights. To the right of this, but in the imme¬ 
diate foreground, rise the rocky steps of the Pnyx. 
In the plain are the many olive plantations. Above 
these rise Skaramanga and the mountains of Megara. 
It is the association of these many objects that gives 
to the scenes about Athens the poetic name it bears, 
and recalls the lines written by Byron, as he sat in 
the ruins of the Temple of Athena and viewed this 
grand scene: 

“Slow sinks, more lovely ere his race be run. 

Along Morea’s hills, the setting sun; 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


445 


Not, as in northern climes, obscurely bright, 

But one unclouded blaze of living light! 

O'er the hushed deep the yellow beafn he throws; 

Gilds the green wave, that trembles as it grows. 

On old yEgina’s rock and Idra’s isle, 

The god of gladness sheds his parting smile; 

O’er his own regions lingering, loves to shine, 

Through where his altars are no more divine. 

Descending fast the mountain shadow’s kiss 
Thy glorious gulf, unconquer’d Salamis! 

Their azure arches through the long expanse 
More deeply purpled meet his mellowing glance, 

And tenderest tints, along their summits driven, 

Mark his gay course, and own the hues of heaven; 

Till, darkly shaded from the land and deep, 

Behind his Delphian cliffs he sinks to sleep.” 

Why this grand poetic scene? It is because of the 
successive association such scenes have blended in 
one harmonious union of many, making a single scene 
of grandeur. 

We look in vain about Venice to find flower gar¬ 
dens, for botanical gardens, for babbling brooks, for 
lawns, for parks, and for the many things that largely 
go to make up an interior city, without which an 
inland city would be but an aggregation of houses 
and unsightly streets. 

In the tragic speech of Mark Antony, over the body 
of Cassar, which the mantle was still covering: 

“You all do know this mantle,” etc. 

“Look! in this place ran Cassius’ 

Dagger through.” 

It was the association of the mantle to the body, 
that gives immortality to the utterance, and tragic 
poetry to the words. 

Nature paints for us the fruit and the flowers. She 




M 6 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


has her own designs. Without form or pattern the 
things of beauty assume their perfect shape. The 
morning-glory opens its petals to receive the warmth 
of the rising sun, and then closes them to retain the 
heat that nurtures the germs that sustain the life of 
the flower. How beautiful the work! How sub¬ 
lime the thought that year after year this beautiful 
w 7 ork goes on. Year after year the pollen of one 
kind of flower susceptible in nature to another kind, 
meet in happy unison, and in another year a new-made 
flower is born, perhaps to reproduce in mixture of 
pollen still another flower, and so goes on until we 
now have untold numbers of those beauties, and we 
stop, we pause, to breathe of their fragrance and 
■wonder at their beauty and their grandeur. 

This city has no perfumed flowers; nothing that ap¬ 
peals to the lover of country life, yet, it is a city of 
an unique, yet wonderful beauty. 

As I awoke next morning, I rolled out with the 
pleasant thought: “I repose at last in Venice, the 
only city in the world that has neither horse, carriage, 
dust nor chickens!” No cock’s crow tells the time 
o’ night, or awakes one from his sleep in the morn¬ 
ing. Perhaps the only city in the world where man’s 
fear of immediate death in the lagoons has the stimu¬ 
lating effect of assisting him to keep sober in his home¬ 
ward coming; and remain home when he gets there. 

A city of one hundred and fifty-eight thousand 
souls, two and a half miles from the mainland, con¬ 
nected by a railroad viaduct! It is the chief city of 
the province, a naval and mercantile port and the seat 
of an archbishop since 1451. 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


447 


A city with few streets; its municipal government 
certainly is not troubled with the ever-recurring annoy¬ 
ance of street pavements, and the property has no 
‘‘Abutting taxbills,” to pay. Lagoons oozing out of 
the Adriatic Sea, deeply surrounded with banks of 
strong, finely-cut stone, behind which are wide pass- 
ways with very abrupt endings, where the visitor, ever 
surprised at its shortness, is compelled to take a gon¬ 
dola to cross to the opposite side, or if continuation 
on the same side is desirable, to cross by ascension of 
an arched bridge under which gondolas are constantly 
passing each way, by houses which frequently stand 
on the water’s edge, and the waves of the passing boat 
splatters the water beneath the doors. 

I am told the height of the tidal flow is about three 
feet and steps from lower floors down to the water’s 
edge are so elevated as not to permit the rise of the 
tide to flow over the marble floors. 

I was officially informed that from the side of the 
sea the lagoons are protected at the mouths by a long, 
narrow stretch of sand called the Lido, which is also 
protected by a sea-wall constructed of Istrian marble, 
the wall is thirty-two feet high and forty-six feet in 
breadth. This wall largely impedes the flow of the 
water through which the large sea-going vessels enter¬ 
ing the channel and come up into the very heart of 
the city. These walls were made in 1744-1782. 

Venice is built entirely on stone piles upon which 
are erected some of the largest buildings in the world. 

The palaces and houses have their principal fronts 
facing the canals, and have also ordinarily a way out 
in the rear waterways. 



448 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


I am writing in the third story of one of the hotels; 
my room fronts on the Grand Canal. I see in constant 
movement countless gondolas, two English men-of- 
war, one French battleship, quite a few ocean liners, 
and several Canal pleasure boats. Having in view a 
happy future, the flight of thought suggests to my 
mind: what a delightful place to dwell pending the 
passing of a honeymoon! Fearing that I may not 
succeed in my ambition, I want to advise all young 
and hopeful ones contemplating connubial relationship 
to come here and secure a front room, viewing what 
I here faintly attempt to describe. I have every con¬ 
venience in my room that heart could wish. In fact, 
I have what I never before saw on a bed: a flat feather 
bag called feather quilt. It cover the lower half of 
the bed and is placed loosely over the counterpane, to 
keep the feet and lower limbs warm. Perhaps they 
may not need it. People having cold feet, or so long- 
legged as to cause a lack of proper circulation of the 
blood, will find this annex a great benefit and of 
much advantage. Those whose hearts and toes are 
of close proximity will be apt to kick it over the 
footboard. 

The many beautiful, as well as historical art gal¬ 
leries in this city should be a magnet to attract the 
lovers of art here; they suggest to the poet's mind 
lines, that put in the proper place are apt to place him 
among the liberaturists of note. The paintings and 
sculpture works are luxurious feasts to the mind of 
the artist. They appear as obscure dreams until the 
curtains are drawn back, when the great play of art¬ 
istic life is before you. I cannot say these paintings, 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


449 


these marble statues, are the best, for I have tried to 
show you my thoughts in like fields of culture, where 
master minds of early ages have inscribed on slate, 
wood and brass creations that yet seem to live, breathe 
and almost talk. But permit me to say that after 
four tireless days in Venetian art galleries my feelings 
are like that of the lad in his 'teens, who always 
yielded in love to the face of the last pretty maiden 
he met. 

From a local reference book, I ascertain that this 
city was founded in A. D. 588. The adjoining lands 
were taken from the barbarians by the Lombards, in¬ 
habitants of destroyed cities taking refuge in these 
islands surrounded by protective lagoons. 

The Lombards brought also the arianism of the 
new conquestors ,* each island being governed by a 
separate tribune. 

Any one possessing artistic taste in architectural 
structure, will be pleased with Venetian designs, where 
greatness is the hope of attainment. The most an¬ 
tique edifices are in the Byzantine style, a little in the 
Moorish, but not much, for so recently passing 
through Turkey and Asia, where the Moorish found 
so much place, it is truly a relief to notice the change. 
To me, the effect is in viewing a beautiful city 
and then, boarding a swift moving train through an 
open country viewing the charms of nature’s beauty,-, 
for, however one may love to see the works of the 
greatest masters, I find a refreshing relief in seeing 
the display of lesser talents, and then passing through 
the ever-blooming orange groves, laden with their 
golden fruit, the yellow and green lemon groves, and 



450 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


the mountain sides green with the olive trees,—I will 
forever remember my tour through the Orient. 

It was here in the fifteenth century that the archi¬ 
tecture of the Renaissance revealed Venice in all her 
glory. 

It is here claimed, though I cannot quite understand 
it, that Venetian sculptors were associated with the 
architecture a thousand years ago, and that many 
artists were equally recognized as sculptors and archi¬ 
tects. If they were all like Michael Angelo I could 
easily understand the history, but Michael Angelo 
stood alone. 

There are many pleasing incidents in travel. In 
Venice, I was very fortunate to meet in the apart¬ 
ment car to which I was assigned, a gentleman and 
his wife, who readily conversed in many languages, 
she a Spaniard, and he a Portuguese, a coffee mer¬ 
chant, having offices in England, France, Spain and 
America. They travel a great deal. I place their 
respective ages in the forties. I found their company 
very agreeable, and their knowledge of the works of 
art nearly perfect; but few paintings being unknown 
to them. Their knowledge of the history of the 
subjects of the paintings was good. Their thorough 
knowledge of the city of Venice and the treasures of 
the art galleries made it unnecessary to have a drago¬ 
man. After enjoying the pleasure of their company 
for five days, I was indeed loath to say an au revoir, 
though it is true that I have promised to visit them 
next winter in their home in Brazil. 

From the opening of galleries at ten o’clock in the 
morning until three o’clock in the evening you would 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


451 


be quite surprised at their large attendance. You 
chance to meet the same parties in different galleries 
and, in some instances, you become more or less ac¬ 
quainted. I regret to say that the most objectionat 
people we meet there are people speaking our own 
language, who go there in classes with their teachers 
of art. The teachers, generally ladies of culture, were 
low in tone as well as polite in address: I would like 
to have reason to say the same of the pupils, most of 
whom are in their 'teens, and in voice seemingly act¬ 
ing as though they were out in a picnic party, so much 
so, that one’s eye would unconsciously search for the 
dinner basket. The subdued voices of the teachers,, 
and the almost constant warning not to be boisterous,, 
did not always have the desired effect. We have more 
pride of home, than we have at home. At a certain 
time when a class of fourteen young girls, in age rang¬ 
ing from about fifteen to twenty years, were at the 
zenith of their noise, I took upon myself the privilege 
(or duty) to step closely to the older one of the class, 
who was then standing near her chaperone, and say 
to her: 

“You will pardon me, but I, too, am an American, 
and I feel the pride due our great nation to call your 
attention to the fact that you are surrounded by cul¬ 
tured people of other nations, whose expressions and 
opinions of what they see are kept within their own 
breasts, or conveyed in whispers to their associates.’" 

The chaperone, who, I was informed by the pupil 
I had addressed, was also a teacher of the class, and 
thanked me for my frank expression. It was seem¬ 
ingly the turning point in the lives of these innocent 



452 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


maidens, and they seemed to realize their true situa¬ 
tion. Fortunately, at this moment an elderly French¬ 
man, with a class of six maidens, whose ages ranked 
the same as those of the ones just mentioned, came in. 
He was doing his own guiding; evidently he had been 
through these spacious halls many times before on 
similar services. Every explanation was made in an 
undertone, having three of his pupils on either side. 
When one the pupils wanted more explanation she 
would whisper, “Master?” and then ask the question. 

I stood across the gallery and watched the entrance 
and departure of the French teacher and his much 
admired class. During which time the American 
chaperone, a lady perhaps nearing the half century 
mark, and her class surrounding her, stood in the 
middle of the room, witnessing the entrance, the ser¬ 
vices and the departure of the cultured French party. 
I was about to move on when I noticed the chaperone 
and the young lady whom I had taken the privilege to 
address, coming toward me with pleasure beaming in 
her face, as well as an inquiring expression on the 
faces of the rest of the class that followed. I was 
immediately surrounded by innocence, but not all 
beauty. The elder lady then asked my name and 
address, giving to me at the same time the subject of 
her inquiry. She most heartily thanked me again, as 
did the young lady mentioned, for correcting their con¬ 
stant breaches of etiquette so unintentionally and inno¬ 
cently done. The smallest one of the class, perhaps 
a child of thirteen or fourteen years, made bold enough 
to inquire why I remained in the room and watched 
the French professor and his class from the time they 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


453 


entered until they departed? To which I readily re¬ 
plied: that I was attending a drama in two acts, the 
first acts, performed by Americans in native costume, 
but not altogether American custom, the latter by 
French actors in French costume and—the celebrated 
French manner. 

“From this moment/’ said the large young lady in 
question, “we will adopt French customs and man¬ 
ners.” Each one of the class most affectionately 
shook my hand, as did their chaperone. I did not 
care to follow them, as I did not want them to have 
any reason to believe that I would question their sin¬ 
cerity of purpose or action. Nor, did I care to retrace 
my steps back through the galleries I had seen. So I 
remained in the gallery and again reviewed the work 
of Murillo, the greatest free-hand painter in any age. 
Presently my mind became again interested in the 
genius that made canvas pictures seem so real that 
by a little more effort they might seemingly breathe, 
speak and live. I was intently admiring the picture 
of the two beggar boys, one who was devouring a meal 
just given him, his face illumined with the satisfaction 
of having plenty; the other boy sitting near by in 
hunger and despair, the thoughts of each facial expres¬ 
sion plainer than could be put into print. Beside this 
wonderful work was another and very similar work 
of this same great artist. Also two boys, street Arabs, 
on their knees in a back street, gambling by the use 
of dice; by the side of one was a pile of his winnings, 
his face radiant with smiles and increasing happiness, 
the other barefooted lad’s face was that of despair. 
As I stepped back to view both paintings, to see if the 



454 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


subjects of both sketches were the same boys, a femi¬ 
nine voice whispered near my ear the word: 

“Wonderful!” 

I did not turn to see who the person was whose 
voice still echoed in my brain, as I was in some doubt 
but that it was a passing thought of my own. Again 
I heard the word repeated: 

“Wonderful.” 

I then turned about and in doing so I touched a 
lady, whom I first met in an art gallery in Naples, 
later in Rome in the Sistine chapel, also in the Museum 
in Florence; as usual, she was accompanied by a lady 
descending the western slope of life’s pathway. We 
had become quite well acquainted, so much so in fact, 
that the elder lady had taken upon herself the pre¬ 
sumed duty of inquiring if I were married. I could 
hardly think the question was asked for her own bene¬ 
fit, as she had told me her lady travelling companion 
was only a friend. I could not tell why she so per¬ 
sistently kept inquiring, for the younger lady had also 
asked me the same question. 

We conversed in the hall, passed to other galleries, 
and ir going across the lagoon to another gallery, 
became separated and never saw the elder lady any 
more. 



CHAPTER XLVI 


MUNICH 

We arrived at Munich in the midst of a snow 
storm. The first thing that attracted my attention 
was the workwomen on the streets, dressed in short 
skirts but little below their knees, and, like the pil¬ 
grim women from Russia I saw in Jerusalem, they all 
wore men’s boots, the tops of which came up to the 
knees. They were warmly clad, sweeping the streets 
and switching the electric street cars. I was told at 
the hotel that these women are from the country, who 
were laborers on the farm, never worked indoors; 
getting here, ninety-five cents per day working on the 
street, more than they could make in the country; 
hence the change. 

Munich is the capital of the kingdom of Bavaria, 
constituting part of the Empire of Prussia. 

Here is made the Munich beer, which is claimed by 
all to be the best beer made in any place. 

On the train from Venice to Munich I thought I 
saw the young woman whom I met in Venice, in com¬ 
pany with the elder lady, in the midst of a large crowd 
at a railroad station. The next day I met her in 
an art gallery alone. She began to ask me why I 
was not married. I replied jokingly, and then ven¬ 
tured the privilege to inquire if she were married, and 

455 


456 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


she laughed as she replied, “No,” but that she had 
been married often, having buried one husband in 
Australia, another in Wales, and was trying in Da¬ 
kota to sever the tie from the third one. Frank in 
expression as she was, honest in truth, up to this time 
we generally agreed in the genius of great painters, 
but our tastes seemingly separated here. 

The following week I was taking an early break¬ 
fast in Berlin, and the steward, for some reason per¬ 
haps best known to himself, placed me in the farther 
end of the breakfast room, as you should know the 
breakfast room in an European hotel and the din¬ 
ing hall are two different apartments. I was waiting 
the coming of my order, when I chanced to look to¬ 
ward the entrance, and saw a gentleman and lady be¬ 
ing seated near the entrance door of the room. Just 
as they were seated, the lady friend chanced to see 
me. With a pleasing smile, and kindly bow of recog¬ 
nition, accompanied by a whisper to her companion, 
they immediately arose and came toward me, she pleas¬ 
antly introducing her husband. We breakfasted to¬ 
gether. 

We laughed, when she explained her reason m 
claiming to have so many living husbands and being 
involved in so many matrimonial severances. She ex¬ 
plained her reason in doing so by saying that fre¬ 
quently gentlemen would be less likely to seek life en¬ 
gagements. I asked: 

“Did you apprehend that I-” 

“Yes,” quickly catching the coming question, “I 
thought that in our last meeting in the gallery you 
were about to propose.” 




THE GLOBE TROTTER 


457 


It would be very ungallant in me to deny the alle¬ 
gation, or to explain to the allegator. So I replied, 
that she had built my hopes pyramidically and just as I 
was completing the survey of the situation of a pleas¬ 
ant future she unceremoniously slid me to the ground. 
I am well satisfied that her husband believed every 
word I said, and he seemingly enjoyed the dexterity 
of her wit and diplomacy, and we all joined in a 
smothered laugh, with regretful expression that we 
were not so situated that we could give true vent to 
a good old-fashioned American, ha! ha! During 
which time I found a safe opportunity to give the 
wife a knowing wink which brought forth a renewal 
of mirth not entirely within the narrow confines of 
the ethics of table etiquette. I could not but soliloquize, 
“Oh, woman, how vain and deceitful. Poor husband, 
how innocent!” The electric current sent through 
my brain the thought of the “quick and the dead.” 

We were together every day during my stay in 
Munich, in Dresden, and in the Prussian Capital. 

“It is so nice to have you with us,” this American 
lady said to me, at our last dinner in Berlin, and the 
last time I saw her, for they were to remain in Ber¬ 
lin for a month, and I to leave on the morning train 
for Hamburg to catch my steamer to New York. 
“Yes,” added her husband, “we shall be delighted to 
have you visit us at our home in Philadelphia,” at 
the same time handing me his card. 

Dinner being over, we then sauntered out into the 
rest room, where the husband drew from his side 
pocket a case of cigarettes and offering me one. His 
wife pulled out one as did he, one match set them 



458 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


going. I rather envied their pleasure, and regretted 
that I didn’t know how. I noticed how dexterously 
she flipped off the ashes with the fingers of the same 
hand that held the papered weeds. 

“That cigarette bites the end of my tongue, ,, said 
the newly-made husband, as he threw it into a cus¬ 
pidor near by; and as he added, addressing me: 
“Kindly remain with my wife while I get a shave,” 
and an office boy led him through the corridors to the 
barber shop. 

I waited rather impatiently until his ears were be¬ 
yond the sound of a low voice, again, there was some 
danger, for if he saw my anxious countenance and 
her unwilling, or overly willing facial expression, he 
might imagine that we had met before we chanced to 
meet in Venice or on the train. For I want here to 
confess that I have intentionally deceived the reader 
for a purpose which was to conceal the identity of 
this lady. Who is she, reader? Just now I saw her 
husband disappear around the last corner, and I 
waited for a moment, maybe to be sure that if he 
had a good coat of soap over his face, it would be a 
safe time for me to ask a question or more. I be¬ 
gan: 

“Well, Alfalfa, tell me where you got this guy?” 

“Just picked him up in Florence, as easily as I 
thought I would you on the ship,” and she chuckled 
a laugh that she controlled by putting her face down 
into her handkerchief. 

“And where is your mother?” I ventured to ask. 

She looked over her handkerchief which was hold¬ 
ing in a laugh, as she in a smothered tone mimicked: 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


45 9 


“Oh, you mother,” and she buried again her face 
in her linen muffler, for that was what she was now 
using it for. In a moment she again raised up those 
mischievous eyes and amusingly looked at me, as she 
again repeated: 

“Oh, you mother,” and again bobbed her head 
down. 

“I thought I could see a family resemblance,” I 
began. 

She looked up and said: “Oh, you greeny, I thought 
I gave you a dozen hints; but you couldn’t catch 

on. 

“This fellow did,” I said, running my left thumb 
over my shoulder in the direction he had gone. 

“He’s rich; it was love at first sight.” 

“All your marriages were that way,” I suggested. 

“Every one, love through and through—the pocket- 
book,” she whispered. 

“How much will you get off this fellow ?” I asked. 

“Not less than ten thousand. He gave me two 
thousand dollars in Express Company checks to buy 
a few gowns when we reach Paris. I will find a 
place to conceal the checks, then claim I lost them, 
and let him ‘come again’ and buy the gowns. I ex¬ 
pect to get tired of him by the time we reach old 
Philadelphia, and if he don’t settle enough on me 
I’ll make it so unpleasant for him that he’ll buy his 
freedom, and I’ll take another voyage.” 

Thus ran our conversation while the rich old guy 
was getting his stubbles cut down. 

I do not want the reader to guess that Alfalfa is 
a bad woman; for she is not. She deals with her 



460 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


husbands only. There are at least two hundred thou¬ 
sand women in American doing the same kind of bus- 
iness through matrimonial contracts, fleecing the un¬ 
wary, getting relief in the divorce courts to throw out 
the lariat again. 




CHAPTER XLVII 


DRESDEN 

We arrived at Dresden, the capital of Saxony, made 
famous by Napoleon’s entrance and capture nearly a 
century ago. One is ever anxious to see this beauti¬ 
ful city of half a million clean, healthful and seem¬ 
ingly happy and prosperous people. I want to im¬ 
press on all Americans that the people of Europe 
have a well-founded and educated custom of living 
within their income, which should be, and I believe 
is one of the true causes of their happiness; while at 
home in America the reverse is too often the cause 
of unhappiness, displeasure, separation and many 
times of the perpetration of crime. Americans who 
breathe the atmosphere of political equality foolishly 
connect that equality with financial and social equal¬ 
ity. I greatly admire social equality among the very 
rich people and people of but little or limited means. 
It speaks volumes for the rich. But when such social 
intercourse is being commingled, how much more ap¬ 
propriate it is to see those less blessed with the luxur¬ 
ies of life appear garbed in the costumes they can 
easily afford, for their associates know if a gown is 
hired for the occasion, or whether the home is mort¬ 
gaged to foster their appearance in society. 

461 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 




I admire the men or women who appear in their 
best clothing without self-sacrifice of means that can 
be better expended otherwise. The world has respect 
for noble manhood and womanhood in whatever 
sphere the fortunes or the chances in life may place 
them. Ever bearing in mind that by no act or deed 
have they changed from the course that justly en¬ 
titles their good and proper social standing. In the 
older countries of the world, this is not quite enough. 
For a man or woman unaccompanied by either great 
wealth or political or social place will not be received 
here in Dresden in the higher circles of society, ex¬ 
cepting that he is very clever in some art or that he 
has accomplished something in his profession or call¬ 
ing, in exhibiting a talent unusually good, such as at¬ 
tracts the attention of the country or world. In such 
events, if having the other desired reputations, the 
hand of fellowship is freely extended to him. 

But I am in Dresden now, and it is Holy week 
and also Good Friday, one of the days of the year 
when all the art galleries, museums, as well as all 
stores and places of amusement are closed to the pub¬ 
lic. A day here, ever kept holy, in commemoration 
of the death on the cross of Him who died for man’s 
redemption. 

But my time is limited to days, for I am to re¬ 
embark on the 20th instant and have two larger cities 
yet to see in my hurried flight of time. Horses and 


carriages, now' for once more in life, are too slow. 
An auto, with a clever driver and an English speak¬ 
ing guide at their own prices, brings me to the base 
of a hill across the Elba, where the guide and myself 




THE GLOBE TROTTER 


483 


took an inclining cable car to the top of the hill over¬ 
looking the city. This hill contains the city of 
Lashwit. 

Dresden is the capital of the Kingdom of Saxony, 
the headquarters of the largest army corps, of over 
eleven thousand men. It lies on the banks of the 
Elba, which is navigable for small steamboats and 
barges. 

The history of Dresden dates back to 1205, when 
it was a fish market. In 1760 it was bombarded by 
Frederick the Great. This small item I found in a 
little pamphlet. I tried in vain to secure some infor¬ 
mation of the capture of this city by Napoleon, in 
1813, but in no place is the name of Napoleon men¬ 
tioned, nor of the bombardment and subjection to his 
control. It seems to me that by way of diversion to 
the stories of their own greatness, they could have 
truthfully written that a Frenchman by the name of 
Napoleon Bonaparte, who had a large army and was 
a conquering power, in the year 1813 camped ten miles 
out from the city, and under the cover of darkness 
sent his brother-in-law, General Murat, with a sup¬ 
porting squad of soldiery into the city to reconnoiter, 
and after the noon of night they returned to camp 
with a willing captive, Countess Valeska, a young and 
beautiful Polish beauty, residing here in Dresden at 
the time of Napoleon’s invasion, and who first met 
him in Warsaw, where she went to interview him in 
the interest of her country, and instead of convinc¬ 
ing Napoleon of the rights of her people, he, not in 
vain, appealed to her tender passions and she yielded 
to his appeal. She was but eighteen years of age at 



464 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


the time, and the wife of Count Valeska, in the sear 
and yellow leaf of the eighties. She sacrificed all that 
was noble and grand in womanhood for love of 
Napoleon, a man who could not become her husband. 
From a lady of the court, she descended to a camp 
follower of Napoleon. She bore him a son, Alex¬ 
ander, who, on taking the name of his mother’s fam¬ 
ily, distinguished himself under the second Empire. 
Countess Valeska followed Napoleon to Paris, and 
after his exile to Elba, she came to him here. From 
there he drove her from him, as he would a woman 
of the street. It is not my purpose now, nearly a 
century after the death of Napoleon, to comment on 
his character. No man to-day would care to pluck 
a laurel from his field of greatness and fame, or add 
another cause for the acknowledged depravity of his 
moral turpitude. Baseness is no fuel to greatness, 
nor is it ever a stimulant to the growth of genius. 
The best historians and writers since Napoleon’s time, 
should accord to Napoleon as being one of the great¬ 
est geniuses of any age. Let it be hoped that Angelus 
Valeska and Napoleon now are equal. If not, that 
she may be sympathetic in his sufferings. 

She told to the hero of almost untold engagements 
in battle, the safe way to enter the city of Dresden. 
Also the place where the treasures in art were con¬ 
cealed, on learning of his coming, and finally the se¬ 
cret where her husband had his gold concealed. All 
of which was of great and lasting value to the wide 
world destroyer of kingdoms. The next day her hus¬ 
band was a prisoner, his gold, with the city of Dres¬ 
den and the paintings that now adorn the Louvre in 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


465 


Paris, and the palace in Versailles were packed by 
the soldiers and placed in wagons en route for 
Paris. 

It would not be an act of humiliation on the part 
of the intelligent Dresden historians to mention this 
fact, or even in the future to add the historical fact, 
that the young woman whose name was Valeska, be¬ 
came the mother of Bonaparte’s first recognized son, 
who would have been made the legalized crown Prince 
of France, had it not been that his consort, Marie 
Louise, presented to him also a son, who, before his 
parents had time to celebrate his first birthday was 
made the king of Rome by his father’s appointment. 
Let it ever be said, as is recorded in history that this 
faithless young wife truly loved Napoleon, for after 
his defeat at Waterloo, and his imprisonment on the 
Isle of Elba, Valeska alone of his many female ad¬ 
mirers, sought him in his loneliness and sorrow and 
tried to soothe his grief. But his love for her changed 
into a painful hatred, and he drove her from the Isl¬ 
and as he would a beast, and let me add to the credit 
of the unhonored son, that he denied his paternal re¬ 
lation, and took the name of his mother’s family, 
which he bore to his grave. 

I mention these historical facts, as matters that to 
the average mind, should be connected with the his¬ 
tory of Dresden. 

When Macaulay wrote the history of England, he 
wrote truths, though he clothed many acts of overt 
indiscretion as appearing proper, because of the cus¬ 
tom of the country at the time, but our German his¬ 
torians, seem to conceal history that fails to mention 



466 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


their greatness, or in any way impoverish their feel¬ 
ings. 

When my mind recalls the many acts of friendship 
done by Valeska in the promotion of Napoleon’s hap¬ 
piness, while I can not excuse her act of unfaithful¬ 
ness to her husband, I can readily see that she might 
easily be led to believe that her sacrifice of soul and 
body was but a humble tribute to the greatness of a 
man who never had an equal in war. Abraham held 
his beloved son tightly by his left hand and drew back 
his right hand grasping a long knife to sever the head 
from the body, when a guardian angel appeared and 
crossed the uplifted hand and pointing to the sleeping 
lamb below, and nearby, exclaimed: 

“Kill the lamb, and save your son!’’ 

Abraham loved his son, but believed God re¬ 
quired the sacrifice. Be not too anxious to accuse 
those who err; Mary Magdalene wept at the feet of 
Christ and was forgiven. 

The poor outcast was driven from the man 
who betrayed her, and thence by the populace from 
the country—great love for Napoleon brought her to 
this lowly* pass. Maybe she also knelt at some shrine 
and prayed for the forgiveness of her sin, and might 
not that forgiving One have smoothed her brow and 
washed away all errors of the past? 

These flights of thought may not be germain to 
the subject, but when I come to a place where I know 
of its history, and that history stands out as sunbeams 
before me, I feel as though I must mention them, 
though these historical facts may not be of praise to 
the people of that country. 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


467 


This city owes a large part of its fame to Napo¬ 
leon’s invasion. It now attracts much attention in 
this part of Europe, to its extensive artistic, literary, 
and scientific collections. Of these the most valuable 
is its splendid picture gallery, founded by Augustus I 
and increased by his successors at great expense. It 
is the museum that contains about twenty-five hun¬ 
dred pictures, the best being the work of Italian mas¬ 
ters, but Dutch and Flemish schools have their prod¬ 
ucts here also. Among the Italian masters repre¬ 
sented are Raphael, Titian, Correggio, Leonardo, da 
Vinci, Paul Veronese, Andrea del Sarto, Giulio, 
Romano, Annibale Caracci, Guido, Reni, and Carlo 
and Dolci, and of the Flemish and Dutch schools 
there are paintings by Rubens, Vandyck, Rembrandt 
and Ruysdael, Wonvermann, Dow, Teniers, Ostrades, 
Potter, etc. The French school is represented among 
others, by Poussin and Claude. The gem of the col¬ 
lection is Raphaels Madonna di San Sisto, for which 
a room is set apart. There is also a special room for 
the Madonna of the younger ITolbien. Other paint¬ 
ings with which the name of the gallery is generally 
associated are Correggio’s La Notte and Mary Mag¬ 
dalene; Titian’s Tribute, Money and Venus; the 
Adoration and The Marriage in Cana, by Paul 
Veronese; Adrea del Sarto’s Abraham’s Sacrifice; 
Rembrandt’s portrait of himself with his wife sitting 
on his knee; the Judgment of Paris and the Boar 
Hunt, by Ruben; Vandyck’s Charles I, and his Queen 
and their children. In separate compartments there 
are a number of crayon portraits, most of them by 
Rosalba Carriera, and views of Dresden by Canalette 



468 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


and other artists. The museum includes fine collec¬ 
tions of engravings and drawings. It is claimed there 
are three hundred and fifty thousand specimens, ar¬ 
ranged in classes, so as to mark the great epochs in 
the history of art. A collection of casts, likewise in 
the museum, is designed to display the progress of 
plastic art from the time of the Egyptians and As¬ 
syrians to modern ages. 

The Japanese Palace contains a public library of 
more than three hundred thousand volumes, with 
about three thousand manuscripts and twenty thousand 
maps. This library is especially rich in ancient class¬ 
ics, and in works bearing on literary history and the 
history of Germany, Poland, and France. In the 
Japanese Palace there are also a valuable cabinet of 
coins and a collection of ancient works of art, etc. 

In the Green Vault of the Royal Palace, so-called 
from the character of its original decorations, there 
is an unequaled collection of precious stones, pearls, 
and works of art in gold, silver, amber, and ivory. 
These objects which are about three thousand in num¬ 
ber, are arranged in light rooms. They include the 
regalia of Augustus II, as King of Poland; the elec¬ 
toral sword of Saxony; a group by Dinglinger, in 
gold and enamel, representing the court of the Grand 
Morgue, Aurungzebe, and consisting of one hundred 
and thirty-two figures upon a plate of silver four feet, 
four inches square; a pearl representing the dwarf of 
Charles II of Spain, and a green brilliant weighing 
forty carats. 

The two chief art institutions in Dresden are the 
Royal Academy of Arts, founded in 1764, and the 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


469 


Royal Chair. The Art Union, founded in 1828, which 
has a permanent exhibition in the Briihl Terrace. 

Dresden is also the seat of a number of well-known 
scientific associations. The educational institutions 
of the town are both numerous and of a high order, 
including a technical college with a staff of more than 
fifty professors and teachers. 

Dresden, which is known to have existed in 1206, 
is of a Slavonic origin. It became the capital of 
Henry the Illustrious, Margrave of Meissen, in 1270. 
The town suffered severely during the Seven Years’ 
War, being bombarded in 1760. Some damages were 
also inflicted on it in 1813, when Napoleon made it 
the center of his operations. 



CHAPTER XLVIII 


BERLIN 

Berlin is from 110-160 feet above the sea level. It 
is the Capital of Prussia, residence of the German 
Emperor, and seat of the Imperial Government, as 
well as of the highest Prussian authorities; contains, 
with its immediate suburbs, 300,000 inhabitants, in¬ 
cluding the garrison of 23,000 soldiers, situated in 
the midst of an extensive level country. The river 
Spree, a navigable stream, flows through the city. 

I spent two hours in driving through the Tiergarten, 
the largest and most attractive park in or near the 
city. It is two miles in length and a mile in width, 
containing six hundred acres of ground, this sur¬ 
rounded by many hotels and charming residences of 
the most fashionable promenades. 

In the driveway we met and passed many young 
people on roller skates, each one trying to outdo the 
skill of the other. 

Many beautiful marble statues grace the drives, 
and quite a few in bronze. 

It is one of the three cleanest cities I have seen,— 
Lisbon, Dresden, and Berlin, all being actuated by a 
desire to be clean and are not in a contest for supe¬ 
riority. These cities are doing that which every other 
city in the world should be doing to property, avoid 

470 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


471 


the infection of disease, and to accelerate the health 
of their people, which necessarily promotes their hap¬ 
piness and increases their prosperity. 

The elimination of the horse and the substitution 
of the auto in city traffic, together with the eradica¬ 
tion of dogs from the streets will go far toward the 
perfection of the hoped-for absolute cleanliness of all 
cities. 

In Berlin the large boarhound is a beast of burden, 
he draws a little wagon that one would scarcely think 
could be drawn by a good-sized pony. He pulls easily 
a weight from six to seven hundred pounds over 
smooth paved streets. He works on one side of the 
wagon tongue, and a man walks on the other side, 
guides the wagon, and in some places, assists the dog 
in pulling. 

Here in Berlin are but few public horse carriages 
or cabs. All along by the railroad stations can be 
seen many large autos standing ready for use, on 
which are attached clocks as taximeters recording the 
time in use, which by local laws governs the fees to be 
charged, which are also plainly printed on a card by 
the meter. All one needs to know is the languages, 
which the majority of we poor Americans in our fast 
chase for the dollar have overlooked to learn, and too 
frequently we are, for our protection, compelled to 
call upon some travelling European to tell us what 
w 7 e need to know, but do not. 

Berlin is a city of happy and prosperous people, a 
city beautifully situated on a level plateau in a valley 
amply supplied with clean and well-kept hotels, where 
the English language is properly used in the office 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


472 

and dining halls, and where the utmost care and civil¬ 
ity is rendered to all guests, the fixed charges for 
rooms but about half the price charged for like places 
in America; with German beds of two-sized feather 
covers made to cover the lower half of the bed, and 
in some places the entire cover is feather lined; pil¬ 
lows in size, softness and comfort suggestive of happy 
dreams and lazy and pleasant slumber. This custom 
I certainly will adopt at home. 

The cooking is admirable, the table service could 
not be improved. The cafes are in the Vienna style. 

Circular drives permit one to readily see lovely 
gardens, and the city proper, in less time than you can 
see a city of like size at home, for this city appears to 
have been laid out for a people of its present popula¬ 
tion, and does not contain more acres of ground than 
an American qdy of one-fourth its size. 

It is also quite a manufacturing town, perhaps more 
noted over the world for its linen. The automobiles, 
carriages, and railroad equipment are also made 
here. 

The city likewise claims superiority of art in her 
picture galleries. Those who have not seen Naples, 
Rome, Florence, Venice, Paris, Versailles, Fontaine¬ 
bleau and even London, may concede the claim, but 
not any one who has seen these galleries will ponder 
over what are to be seen here. 

The monument of Frederick the Great; Frederick 
William III, and a few others, whose names I cannot 
remember, certainly deserve a place among monuments 
where the hand of genius is artistically displayed. 

These great statues are of bronze, and are impres- 


I 




THE GLOBE TROTTER 


473 


sive as the work of making them is masterly in work¬ 
manship. 

We were also shown the Museum of Industrial Art, 
a modern structure built in 1867, containing a very 
extensive and priceless collection of the products of 
many countries, ancient and modern. The exterior 
of the building, which is in the Hellenic Renaissance 
style, is beautified with many Mosaics, representing 
the principal epochs in the history of civilization. 

The Royal Palace is in the form of a rectangle six 
hundred and fifty feet in length and three hundred 
and eighty feet in depth, enclosing two large courts. 
It rises in four stories to the height of ninety-eight 
feet, while the dome above is two hundred and thirty- 
two feet high. We regret not to have seen the Em¬ 
peror, as he was taking a vacation in Italy. The Crown 
Prince in charge of the Palace, pending the absence 
of his father, is a slender youth of apparently twenty- 
five or twenty-six years of age, having a nice, gentle 
appearance and certainly an agreeable facial expres¬ 
sion. 

Outside the Palace, stands the National Monument 
to Emperor William I, an imposing bronze statue, 
representing the Emperor on a horse, led by the genius 
of Peace. At the four corners of the base are Vic¬ 
torias, and on the two principal sides are reliefs of 
God and Peace. This magnificent structure is en¬ 
closed on three sides by a colonnade. It would indeed 
be appropriate to erect some similar one to the memory 
of George Washington in the front of the White 
House, as a substitute for, and the elimination of the 
relief of War, put a sheaf of wheat, a bale of cotton, 



474 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


and a few stalks of ripened corn; representing an 
agricultural country and not of war. In this way the 
relief would be Peace and Plenty. For I do think the 
founders of our country should have lasting monu¬ 
ments commemorative of their heroic efforts in estab¬ 
lishing the greatest Republic of any age, especially 
those of the days of 1776. 

The Gallery of Antiquities is but a fair illustration 
of the truth that Germany is too far north to have 
antiquities such as we were shown in Egypt, in Tur¬ 
key, in Greece and in Italy. It is true, this gallery 
contains Greek and Roman sculptures, but they seem 
of a character not needed anywhere. They are insig¬ 
nificant in appearance, and could not be compared to 
any other gallery I have seen in the other countries. 

Yet, I am pleased to add that in the National Gallery 
I saw some magnificent statues of modern artists that 
could have been more modernized in the lack of 
nudity. It seems the sculptors were practicing after 
the ancient masters. 

The Monument of Victory, also a modern work of 
art, is a credit to any growing nation. It is neither 
suggestive of Peace or of Plenty. It is two hundred 
feet in height, standing on a circular terrace ap¬ 
proached by eight steps of granite. 

The massive square pedestal is adorned with reliefs 
in bronze. It illustrates the restoration of the Ger¬ 
man Empire, and was erected in the year 1873. Above, 
in a fluting of the column, are three rows of statues, 
made of cannons captured from Denmark, Austria 
and France, sixty (60) in all. These sixty statues do 
not appear to me to represent many doves with olive 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


475 


branches of peace. I can easily realize the feelings 
of Danes, Austrians and Frenchmen visiting the Capi¬ 
tol of the German Empire and having their eyes 
brought in contact with symbols of their defeat. On 
the summit of this grand work is a capital formed of 
eagles, crowned with a Borussia, forty-eight feet high. 

The monument that most appeals to my mind as 
meaning appropriate to the Peace, is that of Bismarck, 
a colossal bronze figure of the great chancellor stand¬ 
ing upon a granite pedestal, surrounded by four 
groups: Atlas, bearing the globe, Seiglefore forging 
the imperial sword, Constitutional Authority tramp¬ 
ling upon Sedition, and Statecraft seated on a Sphinx. 
Bismarck was one of Germany’s greatest men. It is 
right that it should erect to his memory a monument 
illustrative of his works. 

There are some things in history, as well as in 
works of art, that have an unexplainably pleasing side 
to them. In one of the most prominent places in 
this city is erected a monument sixty feet in height, 
which is improperly named a Column of Peace. It 
was placed where it now stands in the year 1840, on the 
25th anniversary of the peace of 1815. It is crowned 
with a Victory, and is surrounded by marble groups 
of the four chief powers that took part in the victory 
of Waterloo. 

Again I vainly looked for the dove and the olive 
branch, the Christian symbols of peace. I looked for 
the Angel of Peace, but no signs emblematic of Peace 
could be found on this monument. I like the German 
people and their country in many ways, but if I were 
a German I should blush to point to a statue so truly 



476 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


descriptive of the Battle of Waterloo, showing that it 
took the united action of four powerful nations to 
whip Napoleon, when the true history is, that victory 
was gained by the treachery of Blancheor, one of Na¬ 
poleon’s generals, who was bought by English gold 
to betray his country. After the battle was over Na¬ 
poleon said that during the battle he was whipped 
four times, but the contending general did not know it. 

While I freely admit that the defeat of Napoleon 
was better for all countries, as well as for the advance¬ 
ment of peace and civilization, yet, it does seem to me 
that the erection of such a monument, with such re¬ 
liefs, puts me strongly in mind of a man I once saw 
running for dear life, from a man but little more than 
half his size, and when he saw he was protected by 
the friendly intervention of several peacemakers, de¬ 
clared that if they would only turn him loose he would 
wipe the ground with the other fellow. 

Of course, I appreciate the fact that Berlin is the 
National Capital of the German Empire, and situated 
in that part of Germany where art is not devel¬ 
oped as it is on the Rhine and in other parts of the 
country where the Roman power was established, and 
where important buildings were erected centuries ago, 
and dedicated to the works of art. In this part of the 
country, the continuity of such development is 
wanting. 

Perhaps it is more to the credit of this part of Ger¬ 
many to say that more attention is given to arts in 
manufacturing articles useful in industry and in trades 
than in painting and sculpture in marble. For here 
nearly everything useful in life’s daily wants are 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


477 


manufactured and of good quality, and sold for prices 
within the reach of those who need them. 

In passing through the little towns and country, 
which I have made a habit of doing in the day time, I 
notice the numerous Romanesque churches and quaint 
dwellings, leaving the imagination an easy task in 
realizing the everyday life of the old German 
burghers. The architecture is the most conservative 
of all and adheres most closely to the traditionary 
forms. 

In the period of the Renaissance, Germany appears as 
a land open to influence of the most varied kinds. While 
the Italian style invaded it from the south and pene¬ 
trated as far as Saxony, the influence of the French 
works made itself equally prominent in the west. This 
of itself makes it evident that it is impossible to have , 
a uniform German Renaissance, since different parts 
of the country received their artistic impress from en¬ 
tirely different quarters. The material used, whether 
marble or stone or brick, was by no means without 
influence in determining the limits imposed upon the 
different styles. I find much less marble used here 
than in either Italy or Spain. 

While it is true that Berlin is a very beautiful city, 
it is as yet equally true that there is a monotonous 
appearance in the similarity of the construction of its 
buildings, which are practically all made of gray stone, 
and nearly all uniformly five stories in height. This 
similarity of construction and height would, in 
America, appear almost painfully tiresome to the eye; 
here it does not seem so. Perhaps because in nearly 
all the European cities there is a great resemblance in 



478 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


structure. Here it may be claimed that the manner 
of building has broken less abruptly with the past, to 
have adopted fewer foreign designs, and to form the 
truest expressions of a national taste in architecture. 

Spending Easter Sunday here, I was pleased to 
notice the sacredness of the day was religiously ob¬ 
served by the people. Bells were tolling nearly all the 
day. Truly Berlin is a city of undeniable Christian 
virtue. 

In conversing with the proprietor of the hotel where 
I was staying, I chanced to mention the New York 
skyscrapers, some of them being more than thirty 
stories in height. He looked at me in amazement as 
he ventured to say that he had read of them, but had, 
never come in contact with one who had seen them. 
I saw that he had grave doubts of there being such 
towering monuments accorded to the enterprising 
Americans, and I quietly replied: “You are now look¬ 
ing into two eyes that ofttimes have seen them.” 

“Well,” he said, as between two breaths, and again 
looking at me with an air of suspicion, “if you have 
seen them you certainly must know.” 

Just then a Hebrew, doubtlessly understanding our 
conversation, joined in, but unfortunately speaking 
German. I could see more from his gestures than 
otherwise that he was “siding” in with me. 

But my German friend, with a contemptuous facial 
expression, waved him away, as he remarked to me 
in English that I might understand him: 

“I don’t believe that fellow was ever there.” 

This remark was readily understood by the impolite 
interrupter of our conversation, and he dashed out in 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


479 


broken English: “I in just in once, not yet thirty 
clays, an here to buy more jewelry to send already to 
brother Ike in New York soon.” 

This seemed to irritate the hotel keeper, who re¬ 
plied: “If that be true, when you back to New York 
climb up the highest building, way out on to the roof 
and then jump off quick already soon.” Our Hebrew 
friend disappeared in the crowd of guests just passing 
out of the hotel. 

This little incident recalled to my mind the fact 
that I had not seen a Hebrew in business in the city. 

Our conversation again returned to the architecture 
of the store and hotel buildings of the city, in which 
he informed me, that the municipal buildings repre¬ 
sented the choicest results of the Renaissance as well 
as of the Gothic period, and that it is from these build¬ 
ings, of less magnitude, copies were designed. In any 
event, one thing is certain, that the buildings are 
made solid structures. 

I am writing this article in the bed-chamber in the 
hotel where I am staying. I noticed the first day 
that I came that the windows are double, likewise the 
entrance from the hall to the room has two doors: the 
first one opening into the hall, the second one opening 
into the bed chamber; between these doors is a space 
of about twelve or fourteen inches of frame work 
on which are clothes hooks. I was informed that 
the reason for two doors are twofold: first, to keep 
out the noise, giving more opportunity for sleep; sec¬ 
ondly, one’s clothes that need pressing or cleaning, 
shoes blacking, can be left between the doors. The 
servant’s pass key will open the outside door; he per- 



480 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


forms the necessary work and replaces the articles 
ready for use the next morning. Could anything be 
more appropriate and convenient? Please take notice 
and adopt these methods. 

I had no opportunity to see the interior of the pri¬ 
vate homes to give a detailed description, and not 
having any adequate conception of how they are ar¬ 
ranged, I had to content myself with the exterior 
appearance, which to me, seeing the occupants, satis¬ 
fied me of their homelike charms. The fine electric 
street illumination enhances the effect; a noticeable 
interest is added to the aesthetic, and the poor light of 
the past is shed on the brilliant realities of the present. 
A walk through the streets is quite a feast of varied 
enjoyment for a traveller who has a longing to see 
good buildings, after passing through Turkey and 
part of Asia, and poor, miserable Morocco. In the 
plentiful use of electric lights, electric street railways, 
streets crowded with magnificent autos costing less 
than a third of what they do in America, one can read¬ 
ily see that Germany is up-to-date, and is redeemed 
from provincialism and is now gradually reaching out 
for luxury and display by its far reaching commercial 
relation with all other nations, and will soon control, 
or largely so, the trade with Constantinople—as soon 
as the railroad to Bagdad is completed. 



CHAPTER XLIX 


HAMBURG 

At last my place of embarkation is reached. Four 
days here give me much information. I find that 
Hamburg, Altona, and their environs, which look to a 
stranger to be one city, have a population of more 
than one million people. The hotels, like all through 
Italy and Germany, are very good. 

There are many reasons why I like the German citi¬ 
zen. To me it is a source of great pleasure to see 
two gentlemen meet on the street and each one touch 
his hat, as he smilingly and warmly shakes the hand 
of the other. And as they converse, recognize their 
passing acquaintances by a kindly smile and bow, and 
when parting give a modest shake or wave of the 
right hand while the left hand touches the rim of the 
hat. 

These polite acts of courtesy speak volumes for 
their proper education and breeding at home. 

It costs nothing to be polite and genteel in manners. 
It is easier to be a gentleman or a lady than to be 
otherwise. 

Every act of a child, as soon as he learns to walk, is 
done politely, and with the grace of action, and with 
but little training will remain so. The little girl is 
born innately modest, and as she grows she becomes 

431 


482 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


more self-restrained, and it takes but the least instruc¬ 
tion, added to her own natural goodness, to give to 
her the true accomplishment of a cultured lady. 

In Germany every servant one meets in the halls, 
the office, or the breakfast apartment, greets the guest 
with a pleasing “Goo-d Morn,” for that is the way 
they say it in their own language, and it sounds pretty 
good English, though it is German. 

A Zoological Park in Altona, a suburban city, con¬ 
tains a fine collection of wild animals, mostly exhibited 
in large enclosures, under conditions as similar as pos¬ 
sible to those of nature. The lions are permitted the 
liberty of a yard, and I was asked by a guide to go 
near them, the party giving me his assurance that 
there would be no danger. I told him that the lions 
might possibly change their notion. Again I had a 
vivid recollection of what a farmer once told me: 
That his dog wouldn't bite, while the dog was snap¬ 
ping and I was keeping him off with a hay fork. 

In the art galleries I did not find as good work as I 
saw in Berlin and Dresden. I saw only one picture 
that was very good, the countenance of the Holy 
Mother looking into the face of the girl whom Christ 
was restoring to life from death. That painting is 
worthy a place in the galleries in Florence or Rome. 
The other pictures I saw there are not so good. The 
German artists lack the artistic finishing touch of the 
Italian, the Spanish or the French artist. Nor have 
the German artists such conception of what a great 
picture should be as his Latin cousins. It seems the 
German painter only blocks out his work. I have seen 
paintings in frames in galleries in Dresden and Berlin 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


483 


that would not be regarded as sufficiently sketched to 
commence the final finishing work. 

I saw several Italian and Spanish painters in Rome 
and also in Florence, copying from the great paint¬ 
ings of the masters whose copies were seemingly as 
good as the originals. Should these artists come here 
to Berlin or to Dresden and repaint these pictures, 
giving to them that artistic finish they have never yet 
received, the pictures would not be recognized. 

The Germans are large of stature and fine of form, 
possessing magnificent bodily frames, and red cheeks, 
indications of proper habits of life. 

I do not agree with writers who say the Germans’ 
feet are too large and out of proportion to their bodies. 
In childhood their feet are permitted freely to grow 
and expand with the body, as nature intends should 
be done, nor do I believe the women wear their shoes 
too large just to show that they have plenty of good 
leather. 

The women, like the men, have good sense. They 
wear clothing suitable to their health and comfort, 
more than for the ornamentation of the body. Here 
you fail to see cramped toes, unnecessarily high heels, 
which weaken the back and impose on the victim the 
pains of torture as a penalty for the follies of vanity. 

As a conclusion to the facts I acquired in my tour 
of Globe Trotting, I can truthfully say that the Ger¬ 
mans are physically the strongest, and most healthful 
appearing people I have seen. As a people, they seem 
the most prosperous and happy. I saw no beggars on 
the streets, and apparently no misery among the peo¬ 
ple. I can see no reason why a prosperous German 



484_ THE GLOBE TROTTER _ 

should migrate from his fatherland. The artisans and 
laborers in Germany may not get quite as high wages 
as a like class does here, but they have the satisfaction 
of knowing that their earnings will buy more neces¬ 
saries of life than the American mechanic can 
with his earnings. This of itself should keep him at 
home. 

In Germany the mechanic knows his trade thor¬ 
oughly. Too often in America a helper one year is a 
full-fledged mechanic next year. This is a great detri¬ 
ment to the mechanic who has spent years in learning 
his trade. 

I am pleased to know that in the German schools 
they are teaching the English and French languages. 
No person is properly educated in any country unless 
he can master the English, French and German lan¬ 
guages. It is a great pleasure as well as a great bene¬ 
fit to him. It is better to eliminate higher 
mathematics and geography for the study of lan¬ 
guages. 

Nothing certain is known of the origin of Ham¬ 
burg, but as early as 811 Charlemagne founded a 
castle here, to which was soon added a church, pre¬ 
sided over by a bishop. The counts of Holstine, with¬ 
in whose jurisdiction Hamburg was situated, became 
great benefactors of the town, and procured for it 
many privileges and immunities which formed the 
foundation of its subsequent independence. Hamburg 
joined the Hanseatic League at an early period, play¬ 
ing a prominent part in the famous League's contest 
with the Danish King in the thirteenth and fourteenth 
centuries. 




THE GLOBE TROTTER 


485 


The discovery of America, and of the sea route to 
India were not without effect in stimulating the trade 
of Hamburg. In 1529 the citizens adopted the re¬ 
form faith. Hamburg fortunately remained unaf¬ 
fected by the Thirty Years’ War, chiefly owing to the 
powerful fortifications constructed at the beginning 
of that struggle, and now converted into promenades. 
Dissensions, however, which frequently arose between 
the council and citizens, proved very detrimental to 
the welfare of the city. Towards the middle of the 
eighteenth century her prosperity began to return, 
chiefly owing to the establishment of that direct com¬ 
munication with America, which to this day forms 
the mainspring of her commercial importance; but 
at the beginnng of the nineteenth century the citizens 
were doomed to an overwhelming reverse. In 1810 
Hamburg was annexed to the French Empire, and 
the citizens having, in 1813, attempted to rebel against 
the foreign yoke, Davout wreaked his vengeance on 
them with unexampled barbarity. During those years 
of disaster, from 1806 to 1814, the direct loss sus¬ 
tained bv the citv is estimated at three hundred million 
marks. After the peace of Vienna, Hamburg rapidly 
increased in extent, and notwithstanding the appalling 
fire which raged from the 5th to the 8th of May, 1842, 
and destroyed nearly a quarter of the city, she has 
never ceased to prosper since she regained independ¬ 
ence. The most important event of her recent history 
has been her accession to the German Customs Union 
in 1888. The government of Hamburg is in the hands 
of a Senate of eighteen members and the Burgershaft, 
or city council, consisting of one hundred sixty mem- 




486 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


bers elected for six years. The Senate elects yearly 
two burgomasters from among its own members. 

On the evening of April 19th, I was invited by an 
officer of the ship’s company, with whom I had my 
passage, to accompany him on the lighter, which was 
to carry about fourteen hundred steerage passengers 
down from the pier of the ship on which we were to 
embark the next day for New York. I kindly ac¬ 
cepted the invitation, for it gave to me an opportunity 
to see the physicians examine this class of emigrants 
before their embarkation. The examination of the 
eye is the only examination made. It seems that if 
the applicant is afflicted with any malady, it is evi¬ 
denced in some way in the eye. Those who under¬ 
stand the necessity of the examination come up to 
the physician and hold their heads at a proper angle 
for the required examination, but the babies and chil¬ 
dren who are compelled to submit to the opening of 
the eye and the raising of the eyelids, resist with the 
might of their strength, doubtlessly thinking the work 
an intrusion upon their rights. 

The service rendered, the auswanderers are passed 
through a gate, and are again huddled into another 
room all by themselves. Here the mixture of nation¬ 
alities and languages is quite noticeable. 

The luggage of each one is labeled with his name, 
married men being placed with their families. Men 
without families are put by themselves, and when put 
on the ship this rule is rigidly enforced. 

The officer and myself were the first two to ascend 
the gang plank; then standing at the head of the en¬ 
trance, I had an advantageous place to see the incom- 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


487 


ing of the element of people that I fear are too rapidly 
filling up our country. People of many nationalities, 
not one able to speak a word of English, not half of 
them speaking either German or French ; Poles, and 
many other inhabitants from the Far East. Large 
families are the rule, and many women with little 
infants in their arms. Then I wondered if there 
would be another General Jackson en route. 

The reader who has followed up my writings thus 
far knows our Oriental cruise was one for recreation 
and pleasure. Such cruises are free from sights of 
separation of friends and relatives forever. The dew 
of the eye was carefully treasured away for future 
use, when heart-strings were strained from causes yet 
to be attuned by nature’s emotions. The scene shifts 
when we are about to embark on a ship taking emi¬ 
grants from foreign shores to America, where but 
few ever return home. Here aged parents come to 
see their sons and daughters embark for a voyage of 
thousands of miles away, to what is to them the land 
of the setting sun. These poor innocent souls, who 
have spent nearly all their lives in rearing these chil¬ 
dren to womanhood and manhood, now, when at a 
time in life their society and labor is most needed 
by their parents, now in the declining years of life, 
must give them up and gather all the money they can 
get together, getting better clothes than they usually 
wear, to send their children away forever. Then they 
add a little more ready cash to defray their own per¬ 
sonal expenses to and from the place of embarkation. 
Here they come for the last time to shake the hand 
they so often fondled, to kiss the lips so often pressed 



488 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


in paternal affection, and fondly embrace for the 
last time the flesh of their own flesh, the blood of their 
own veins, and wave the handkerchief as the ship be¬ 
comes dim in the distance. 

I spare the reader the details of the scenes. In a 
few minutes the boat turned the bend of the river, 
rounding near the dry docks, obscuring the view of 
the place of parting. Here I saw the hull of the big 
liner in course of construction, that is to be put into 
commission in 1913, having a displacement of fifty 
thousand tons; also the hull of a monster battleship 
of the same displacement, with a torpedo tube six 
feet below water line. 





CHAPTER L 


ON THE ATLANTIC 

The reader must not forget that in my last article 
I mentioned that, by invitation, I saw the steerage 
passengers come aboard. They seemed to be of a 
class of Agrarians, yet, I did not know if it were the 
custom of the several countries of the east from which 
they came, to eat pumpkin seeds as a food product. 
As it is in Turkey, Asia, and in Egypt through which 
we had been travelling. I noticed that at nearly every 
fruit stand in Egypt and quite a few places in Turkey 
pumpkin seeds were sold as nuts are elsewhere, the 
hulls opened and the meat eaten just as we eat nuts. 

As I saw these emigrants coming aboard the lighter 
in one and twos my mind wafted back to the pumpkin 
seed market; you ask me why? Well, I won’t tell. 
You know you sometimes wake up in the morning and 
you will have in mind some foolish dream, and you 
wonder why you dreamed that way, and again, you 
will recall why you had such a dream. Well, I know 
what recalled my mind to refer to the pumpkin seed 
market. But just like the Alfalfa widow, I will keep 
you in the dark for a while. Yes, I believe I will 
just let you guess. If you fail to guess correctly I 
will not permit you to read '‘Globe Trotter No. 2,” 
when I get my next book out, which, of course, as you 

489 


490 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


will readily understand, I can’t do until I make my 
trip round the world, which I hope to do in a shorter 
time than did Jules Verne. I can beat him by more 
than twenty days. You see he didn’t have the ex¬ 
perience that I have, and again, he is a Frenchman 
and I am an American. That ought to make nearly 
five days in my favor. 

Our handbags and other luggage were soon on 
board the special train, and we were off for the ship, 
which preceded us, going down the Elba during the 
night, one hundred and twenty German miles, when 
we arrived in due time. Here I found in my state¬ 
room my steamer trunk and accumulated “junk bag” 
that had been sent by railroad through Italy, Austria 
and Germany to Hamburg. 

Nothing of interest happened that day, more than 
forming acquaintance of our fellow voyagers. I, my¬ 
self, was glad to realize that at last I was home¬ 
ward bound. For three and a half months over seas 
and on railways is conducive of home fever. 

For two days and nights we had been going against 
a terrific wind storm, at times the bow of the ship 
would mount a wave as though it were a chip, then 
the rudder would go deep down into the trough of 
the sea. To see the majesty of the sea’s madness 
one could go astern and wait until the ship’s bow 
could strike a monster wave and climb its crest which 
would, as I have already stated, send the aft part of 
the ship deep into the sea. The stern of the ship 
would settle so quickly, that it has a tendency to make 
one feel that he’s going down never to come up. But 
as the ship passes over the wave, the bow now goes 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


491 


down and is not unlike a teetering board, the stern 
of the ship goes skywards. The sea beneath the rud¬ 
der looks like a boiling cauldron, for it is the splitting 
of the waves where perhaps a thousand tons of water 
dash again together. The water is all white in foam. 
There was no danger in this storm, as it was almost 
totally unlike the one we so unfortunately ran into 
while crossing the southern Atlantic. 

In the midst of this storm, while we had no fears 
of danger, we regretted that it would make us two 
days late in getting to New York. 

In the very height of the wind’s fury and the waves’ 
madness, and when no one would guess that a bird 
could fly and especially against this fearful wind 
storm, that at times, it was thought that the ship was 
receding in her battle with nature’s strength, a bird, 
a foreign bird, but one that is not a stranger to Amer¬ 
icans as well, overtook the ship carrying a parcel in 
its beak, lighted on the ship’s mast to steady itself; 
perhaps it was weary of its long flight. It is a bird 
we all like, a bird that has been known to Kingdoms 
by his coming, } T et, he is a very beautiful bird, as 
much so as a dove. He brings gifts to some people 
that do not want them, and he fails to bring them to 
some who pray for them. There are times he comes 
too soon. But he is never too late. He is rested 
now, and about the time we thought he might fly on¬ 
ward, he made a dive downward into the steerage 
department and two days thereafter the officers 
of the ship caused to be printed and circulated and 
given to every passenger on the ship, this little 
paper: 



492 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


AN INFANT WAS BORN TO A STEERAGE PASSENGER, 

April 26th, 1911. 

Misses Schwartz and Walker, with Mr. F. S. Heffernan 

collected 37.26 Dollars. 

Mr. Heffernan then dedicated the following: 

LITTLE ABE. 

It was a stormy day, April six and twenty, 

The lashing waves and white caps were full and plenty; 

The ship was splitting the waves bound for the Golden West, 
When the stork came to the boat, and Nature did the rest; 

In the midst of the storm’s raging furies, 

Whistling through the sailless masts, 

Came the cry of Little Abe, showing that 
His Dad had a boy at last. 

We named the child Little Abe, for 
President Lincoln was the ship, 

We passed the hat all around 
And every passenger gave a tip. 

At eight o’clock in the evening we were passing 
through Portsmouth and its harbor was seemingly 
full of warships, practising searchlight methods of 
discovering torpedo boats. As our big boat slowly 
steamed along the channel, perhaps three or four 
miles from the ships whose lights were occasionally 
thrown on us, then on a passing boat of less magni¬ 
tude, suddenly the lights of every warship were 
thrown on our boat (in the play of the practise), to 
designate it as a public enemy, which should be fired 
upon. The meaning of this practise was cheerfully 
given me during the movements of practise by an 
English ex-naval officer standing near me. It was 




THE GLOBE TROTTER 


493 


really a beautiful scene, the first of the kind I had 
ever witnessed. I felt grateful for this chance op¬ 
portunity. 

The vividness of the rays of so many searchlights 
on us became painful to our eyes, so much so that we 
would soon have been required to enter the cabin; 
but fortunately, just then, our boat blew three long 
and very vigorous whistles, which my friend informed 
me was a request to the warship to take off their 
lights, that it was so blinding to our pilot that he could 
no longer guide the ship safely. The third blast of 
the whistle had hardly sounded until all lights were 
off and we were again in the dark. In an hour we 
were at anchor three miles out in the Southampton 
harbor, and the signal was given to the two lighters 
to come out to get passengers and luggage, which re¬ 
quest brought such ready compliance we soon had a 
lighter on either side, one for baggage, and the other 
for passengers, the latter being speedily placed on 
our boat, before any transfer was made from our boat 
to the lighters. At ten o’clock we weighed anchor, 
turned the craft westward to make the remaining and 
last run homeward. Passing westward out of the Isle 
of Wight, then brilliantly illuminated, and the shore 
lights glowing like fireflies in the distance, we were 
soon out again into the dark blue sea, where the fa¬ 
tigue of the day and the stillness of the night gave 
to us a peaceful slumber. I did not wake until nearly 
daylight. When I did awaken it was caused by a 
man of large proportions, who was supplied with a 
triple compound bass sonorous bagpipe placed some¬ 
where, from whatever place it was I could easily 




494 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


imagine that he had an inch rope with stirrup attach¬ 
ments fastened to each foot, and that he was most 
vigorously working the pedals, and that the points of 
his lower limbs had automatic lubrications and 
strength everlasting. The door to his state-room was 
immediately opposite mine, but a three-foot hallway 
dividing the rooms; both doors were open, as is usual, 
for the purpose of free circulation of air. I got out 
of my couch, it being much higher than a house bed¬ 
stead, made so for the purpose of permitting a steamer 
trunk beneath it. Perhaps I was only half awake 
when I made a lunge to get to and close the door. I 
cannot accuse myself of the intention of trying to 
turn a somersault and lighting on my feet just for the 
purpose of quick action, for I yet have a very vivid 
recollection of nearly breaking my neck in trying to 
awkwardly turn a handspring when my years were 
fewer, and agility nearer the art of perfection. In 
any event in this instance, I must have made some 
unusual movement for I came to in a sitting position 
on the floor, with that degree of solidity and certainty 
that two thousand small stars readily came to my as¬ 
sistance to light me to the door, which I quickly locked 
and rolled back into bed, first placing my hand to the 
top of my head to feel if, in fact, my spinal column 
was driven through my cranium, if not, to see if pre¬ 
mature baldness could be attributed to the shock. The 
suddenness of the stoppage in my downward course, 
for that is always what hurts, and not the fall, must 
necessarily have caused a discord in the music in the 
offender’s room, for he, too, got up and closed his 
door; perhaps I said something while up, and as I 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


495 


heard him turn the key in the lock, evidently not in¬ 
tending to be further molested in the harmony of 
music. I was wishing that he had not been so par¬ 
ticular as to wait so long, or that he was polite enough 
to courteously wait to give me an opportunity to do 
my stunt first. He being a Frenchman, I excused 
him. If he were an Englishman and assumed this act 
of civility to see the result of my experience, I would 
have shot him with my boot-jack for attaining suc¬ 
cess of his enterprise at my expense. 

The sea was running high, steamer trunks could 
hardly be kept under the berths, hand grips were play¬ 
ing football with the suitcases. 

I was astir, having left an order the night pre¬ 
vious, with my bath steward for a hot salt water bath 
next morning at 6:30, which instruction was rigidly 
obeyed. 

Throwing on my bath robe and jumping into my 
slippers, carrying two unmentionables to don as soon 
as I would complete my bath, I was soon in the tub 
of warm water up to my ears, vigorously applying a 
cake of soap. The steward had warned me before he 
retired, not to stay in the water long, as the “sea was 
uneasy.” I did not at that time grasp his meaning, 
but about the time I had secured a good coat of 
lather all over my body, the ship began to roll like 
an army mule, and its first lurch emptied half of the 
contents of the tub out on the floor. 

“Good,” cried I, for I had too much water to prop¬ 
erly apply the soap and the camel-hair brush. “Yep,” 
the ship went again, this time emptying the tub’s re¬ 
maining half of the water. I thought I heard some 



496 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


one knocking at the door. I wondered who wanted to 
see me. I came near exclaiming the usual: “come 
in!” when it occurred to me that as my only garb con¬ 
sisted of a coat of soap suds my appearance might be 
objectionable to those who are overly particular. I 
again heard the knocking. I looked around and dis¬ 
covered the noise was made by my slippers, which 
were floating about on the water and bumping oc¬ 
casionally against the door. 

The clothes I brought to put on after the bath were 
also floating, except that part which had found the 
bottom. 

I looked for the big, warm towel that had been 
placed over the back of the lounge on which I was 
to sit while drawing it over my body to warm and 
dry myself; it too had taken a dive and had its bath. 
Just then the bow of the ship must have gone skyward, 
to try to do like the bear did, who wanted to walk like 
a man. It was done so suddenly that I came near 
landing on my head in backward somersault, but I 
caught on the edge of the tub and landed on the floor, 
falling on my knees, prayerful pose, but just what I 
then said was hardly appropriate for so pious an atti¬ 
tude. 

My steward’s name is Storm; nice fellow; has my 
warm bath ready at 6 130 every morning. Perhaps I 
was just the least bit excited (that is as near as I 
will admit) ; I wanted to see my steward to get dry 
clothing, I could not think of the name Storm, so I 
called out: “Mr. Thunder!” and he came running like 
lightning. 

It was then the steward unceremoniously bulged 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


497 


through the door wanting to know what was the mat¬ 
ter. Pretty question to ask when the ship was rear- 
ing up on her rudder and was about to go backwards. 

I took another look at my socks, which, by this 
time, had rolled into a ball. 

“Maybe they, too, need a bath,” said I. Then I 
glanced around and saw one of my nether garments 
trying to get out of the door, and the other trying to 
climb to the washbowl, and I said: 

“Stay wet, and I will get a couple of mop handles 
and you can work your passage across the ocean.” 

In doing the rubbing act, I carelessly slid the dry 
bath robe off the settee into the water. One may 
travel and travel and have new experience every day. 
The man who says he’ll never do it again, is only 
trying to make himself believe that it wasn’t his poor 
judgment or lack of good sense that caused the 
trouble. He will do something worse to-morrow. 

While my slippers were yet floating, my other goods 
were doing the mop act in great shape. I cried out to 
my slippers: 

“Go it, little boats, you need the experience.” 

The steward came, opened a trap and let the water 
back into the big pond, I suppose as much to raise 
more commotion on the outside, as it was to dry the 
bathroom. 

On receiving dry clothing it became possible for me 
to reach my state-room where I dressed and was soon 
on deck, where I saw two ladies, each one trying to 
outdo the other, just then the third one came out and 
laughingly exclaimed to the one afflicted: 

“You must have a weak stomach?” 



498 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


The lady addressed wiped her eyes and replied: 

“I don’t see but I throw as far as any of the 
others.” 

Just then the ship gave a heave, throwing the in¬ 
quisitor in a sitting posture; another woman was 
back against the side of the ship; the third came flop 
against my right side. The suddenness of the impact 
scared me. I had had my ribs broken twice, and I 
had dark forebodings of the third breaking, as it 
might not be a “charm.” Again, the notoriety of 
being crushed by a woman, wouldn’t do to reach 
home, especially as I never could make my friends 
believe her proportions, or the situation; I drew a long 
breath when released, as an evidence that I was all 
together. 

About this time the nose of the ship went down 
and the stern went high in the air, the screw pro- 
pellors perhaps twenty feet out of the water. I went 
forward, landing safely, as I exclaimed: 

“It's my time to be on top/’ to which the “neath” 
one replied: 

“I didn’t know you were there.” 

A wave the size of an ordinary hill was making its 
way toward us, and like prairie dogs, we scampered 
back to our respective places of safety. 

There were many bridal couples en tour. It used 
to be the hope of young lives that after marriage they 
will have plain sailing. That was not the experience 
of these people, as I have just shown. It is almost 
impossible for a woman to wear hobble skirts on a 
ship during a storm. I saw two ladies who risked 
a fall, rather than elevate the skirt. I saw one lady 



THE GLOBE TROTTER 


499 


who forgot the presence of two gentlemen, to avoid 
a fall. That was the last appearance of hobble skirts 
during the tour. 

I can divine the bedewed sighs sanctifying every 
diamond on the over-bejeweled fingers. I can con¬ 
ceive the secrets of the radiance of the once-a-day 
peachy cheeks, and the laugh that tickles the heart. 
I think I can penetrate the hearts that were united 
in true pure love, and those who were contracted solely 
for financial purpose, that in a few months or years 
unravels the filaments that cover their action, and ex¬ 
pose their trueness of intent. I can surmise the sweets 
of honeymoon that later is supplanted by anxieties 
not thought of. It is quite easy to imagine, but hard 
to see, that imaginary line that separates the ecstacy 
of joy and happiness from the pains of grief and 
care. Life is a great lottery, yet the chances are too 
often of our own seeking, and our thoughts are too 
often reversed without our knowing. Then we won¬ 
der why we were not wiser. As soon as the young 
husband learns that his wife’s beauty is due to art 
rather than nature, his love lags, he begins to cast 
his eyes about, very much like single men do. 



CHAPTER LI 


HOME AGAIN 

At six o'clock in the evening we sighted the Light¬ 
house; later we began to see strings of light along 
the shores, appearing just above the water’s edge. It 
was not long until we saw a little gasoline yacht com¬ 
ing directly toward us. 

“A pilot boat!” I exclaimed. It was. The waves 
were so unrestful that it was not an easy matter for 
the pilot to get out of his yacht into a rowboat to 
near our big ship. Finally he succeeded, and it was 
with much more difficulty that he safely reached the 
rope ladder let down the high iron sides of our ship 
for the purpose of his ascension. He was soon 
scampering up the ladder and in time reached the 
wheel above, releasing our navigator from duty. He 
safely landed us in Quarantine two hours later. Here 
we remained until the government revenue officers 
and examining physicians released us next morning 
at nine o’clock. 

Carefully steaming up into the harbor, meeting out 
going ships, tugs and ferry boats, we were once again, 
after three and a half months’ globe trotting, safely 
back home again. Then the parting of friends, the 
settlement with the revenue officers of duties, etc., 
soon found us in a cab to catch the first train home¬ 
ward bound. 


500 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


501 


“You have just two minutes to catch the train!” 
the gatekeeper exclaimed. 

“But my baggage,” I began, exhibiting my checks. 

“Never mind your luggage, it will go on the next 
train; run for your train!” 

I did, as fast as I could, carrying a handbag and 
suitcase. I just made it. I hardly reached the top of 
the platform until I thought I felt the train moving. 
I saw outside the big iron fence a cab coming, the 
horses in a gallop. A uniformed man jumped from 
the cab and came running through the gate, as he ex¬ 
claimed : 

“Hold the train, the president of this railroad com¬ 
pany is here in his carriage and wants to catch the 
train!” 

“I wouldn’t hold the train for the president of the 
United States.” 

“But I command!” exclaimed the uniformed offi¬ 
cer. 

“This is the United States Fast Mail, and it waits 
for no one!” 

“All aboard!” 

A sharp sound of the electric whistle and the train 
was moving, the bell ringing as the conductor swung 
on the rear car, which happened to be the observa¬ 
tion car, on which we were standing, waving our hats 
to our friends who were extending good wishes and 
safe home going, as the train pulled out of the largest 
of all railway stations in the world, leaving distance 
behind that goes to make up part of the eighteen thou¬ 
sand miles we are to complete. 

The big fat president, who was so slow to get out 




502 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


of his carriage and so ready to command the Fast 
Mail train to wait his coming, now began to agitate 
the air with his umbrella, in an angry manner. I saw 
him standing there, resting on his umbrella, his valet 
near by with two big handbags, and his athletic secre¬ 
tary who “commanded” our train to wait for the 
president, slowly walking back toward the carriage. 

I was now back in free America, where mail trains 
wait for no oile. Were this incident to happen on the 
other side of the water the train would wait all day, 
if so ordered by its president. 

The train was being drawn by two large electric 
motors, down, down we went into the tunnel, under 
many streets, then into the big tube beneath the Hud¬ 
son River, made light as day by hundreds of incan¬ 
descent lamps. Whiz, whiz, we went, and about the 
time we thought we were half way under the river, 
the train shot into open daylight on the Jersey side; 
we had hardly come to a stop, when we saw the big 
motors detached, and a monster steam locomotive take 
their place, and in just two minutes we were head¬ 
ing for the boundless west. 

The train gradually increased as she departed from 
the greatest American city, gradually increasing her 
speed as she passed the relay stations and then the 
interurban stations until the open country was reached, 
when a speed of more than a mile a minute was 
gained, like the speed of a wild pigeon in a flight to¬ 
ward the setting sun, with its load of human freight, 
some of which were designed for a ride of a few 
hundred miles, many for midway of the western con¬ 
tinent, others for the Pacific coast, a few for the 




THE GLOBE TROTTER 


503 


Orient, while the writer’s chain of tickets entitled him 
to stop off in grand old Missouri, with a silent prayer 
from the inner soul for a safe return. It was but 
twenty-four hours that divided this distance between 
the waters of the Atlantic and of the Mississippi, and 
long before the noon of the day we passed Pennsyl¬ 
vania's greatest city, and standing over the breaks of 
the Alleghanies. 

In mentioning our beautiful state, I recalled what 
a boy who was slow to learn his lesson replied to his 
father’s offers to encourage his efforts to keep up with 
his class. 

The father encouragingly said: 

“Son, if you study hard and keep up with your 
class, when you graduate I will take you to New York 
City in a Pullman car ; when there I will show you 
the greatest city in the Western Hemisphere. The 
highest buildings in the world, railroads under the 
rivers and city, elevated railways up in the air, sur¬ 
face railways beneath them and subterranean rail¬ 
ways still farther down. I will show you hotels that 
it will take the value of a horse to lodge and eat there 
just for one day; we will cross the ocean on a ship 
the seventh of a mile long; I will show you the deep 
blue sea.” 

The son looked doubtful, as he shook his head. 

“On an ocean calm and placid as a mirror, we will 
walk the deck beneath the light of millions of shining 
stars reflecting in the deep blue sea. We will race 
with other boats all day, and at night by wireless 
telegraphy we will play chess with someone on another 
ship a hundred miles away. By wireless we will read 



504 


THE GLOBE TROTTER 


in the ship’s daily paper the great happenings of the 
new and old world. 

“You will hear the officer’s warning of the ap¬ 
proaching storm, you will see all ports closed, and 
see the maddened waters wash over the ship. You 
will wonder at the ship’s strength. You will uncon¬ 
sciously pray for the winds to subside. The calm 
comes. You count the hours of night. The midnight 
bell is tapped. At last land is seen. The Green 
Emerald Isle. The home of patriots and poets. The 
land where were born Grattan, Curran, Emmet, Burke, 
perhaps the greatest orators the world has ever seen. 
The land where its son, Tom Moore, composed poems 
that sent melodies around the world. The land where 
England gets her generals. Its ‘verdure ever green, 
as its memory is in the minds of its foreign natives.” 

The anxious father looks at his truant son, think¬ 
ing perhaps that he would have his promise. The boy 
shook his head, then said the father: 

“I will take you across the channel, through the 
greatest of the commercial countries, we shall view the 
ruined ivy-bound castles of centuries ago, and the 
palaces of the kings.” 

The son still remained silent, with downcast eyes. 
Then said the anxious father: 

“I will take you across another channel into the 
country where politeness, art, and culture are part of 
the inhabitants’ natures. I will show you art gal¬ 
leries of paintings of the great masters until you won¬ 
der that man could produce such effects. I will take 
you to the tomb of the world's greatest general. The 
man whose ambition was to rule the universe.” 



THE GLOBE TROTTER _ 505 

The boy was carelessly looking over in the corner at 
a kitten playing with a ball of yarn, as he exclaimed: 

“Dad, see Puss!” as he again commenced shaking 
his head. 

“I will take you to the sunny land, and show you 
marble statuary that you will wonder why it doesn’t 
breathe and talk. I will then return with you through 
the Mediterranean and show you the world’s great¬ 
est fortress, then we will return home in our own 
metropolitan harbor, and you will see Liberty Lighten¬ 
ing the World.” 

The son became tired of the scenes that did not 
interest him as he said: 

“I care nothing for Ireland and its green fields and 
mountains, its history and traditions. I care less for 
Scotland and I hate England because of her power; 
and France because of her pride and ambition. I 
care but little for Italy and her walls of cold marble 
statuary. I care nothing for New York, her tall 
buildings, her triple railroads, and Bertholdi statue. 
Missouri is good enough for me.” 

And here I am until I again start Globe Trotting. 


FINIS. 








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Complete Comic Writings. i2mo, Cloth. $ 2 . 00 . 

JOSH BILLINGS 

Complete Comic Writings. i2mo, Cloth. Illustrated. $2,00. 

DEVOTA 

By AUGUSTA EVANS WILSON. Illustrated. (Third large 
printing.) $1.50. 

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